Posted 18 March 2006 - 12:14 PM
I am generally ambivalent about Italian restaurants. I eat neither cheese nor most pasta, so much Italian fare is lost on me. But I run by Sette Bello every morning, and I have been curious about the scene inside since it opened. My girlfriend and I tried it last night (3/17/06).
There is some dissonance between the front of the restaurant, with its city-in-the-suburbs atmosphere, mood lighting, and raw fish bar, and the vast dining room, which is unremarkable but for its slightly confusing modern-rustic decor. I was surprised by the size of the dining room; the restaurant's facade does not hint at how far back it goes.
We were on time for our 8:30 p.m. reservation and were greeted graciously by a host. Our coats were taken, and we were seated immediately. Our Italian-accented waiter was extremely friendly and competent, making sure that we were aware of the specials before we ordered drinks, to ensure proper wine pairing, and letting us know of the kitchen's flexibility on pasta orders (half-orders are available as appetizers). I could have done without the extra flair of the fingers-to-the-mouth-followed-by-air-kiss and "Bellisimo!" but I'm sure there are diners that appreciate that level of enthusiasm from a waiter.
The bread basket, served with a plate of olive oil, held better-than-average thick, crusty Italian bread and some sort of cheese bread that I did not try.
My girlfriend ordered the "Pierina," a salad of spinach, pear slices, pine nuts, and thin sheets of Ricotta cheese, tossed in a lemon vinaigrette. I tried a few leafs of the salad, and found the lemon vinaigrette to be far less emphatic than I thought it would be, which is a good thing.
I ordered the "Trio of Salmon" from the "Bar Tonno" menu of appetizers, and very much liked the dish. It was presented well, served in a narrow, rectangular plate separated into three compartments. Despite featuring three takes on salmon, the appetizer is small enough that it is not enough to share. The salmon caviar, featuring sizable, salty, fish eggs was nicely complemented by its underlying Arborio rice, making each bite rich and interesting. The tartare was so melt-in-the-mouth soft and flavorful that, in retrospect, I would have been perfectly happy for all three compartments to be filled with small tartare mounds. The "Margarita style" salmon was not much to my liking, but I knew from the outset that I might not enjoy it, because I do not like alcohol mixed with my food. The black salt around the glass, however, mixed well with the tartare.
My girlfriend's entree, the mezzelune (pumpkin ravioli), was good, but not great. The ravioli are somewhat small, not allowing much space for the nearly candy-like filling of almond paste and pureed pumpkin. I can see a half-order of the pumpkin ravioli as a good appetizer, but the boring, colorless presentation, coupled with the minimal ravioli filling, makes it an average entree.
I had a simple, thick, well-prepared swordfish steak encrusted with peppercorn that reminded me that a good piece of fish does not need to be dressed up to impress. The peppercorn encrusted on the swordfish's surface was so good that even though I could not finish the fish, I cut the remaining portion horizontally to get a few more peppery bites.
The swordfish rested on a bed of sweet and sour eggplant chopped into soft, tender chunks, a side that would have been the envy of any high-end Asian restaurant. The sweet and sour eggplant speaks to an aspect of the restaurant that everyone seems to be overlooking: the web site notes that Sette Bello serves "Italian cuisine with an Asian style," and the Asian influence extends beyond the "Italian sushi" available at the bar and on the "Bar Tonno" menu.
The swordfish, at $18.00, is also a great value.
The only downside to the visit, and a small one at that, was a lengthy wait for the appetizers to arrive and, again, a lengthy wait for the entrees to arrive. But the entrees came out hot and freshly-prepared, and while we were dining a little late (we did not order until close to 9 p.m.), we recognized that it was a busy Friday night following a recent Washington Post review. We were in no hurry, so we sat back, relaxed, and enjoyed a good meal.