If I had a friend, boss, or kissing cousin that came into town looking for a true taste of DC, I would throw them in my beat-up Saturn (thanks, Mom!) and take them straight to Oohhs and Aahhs.
First, it's a small operation, with two owners, one of whom you will almost always find behind the counter. Yesterday, as one of them mixed my wings in with his housemade buffalo sauce in a wok-shaped pan on the stove and fielded what must have been a dozen phone calls for carryout orders, we listened to his partner doing an interview with a local radio station. They had sent over a healthy sample of their cooking to the DJ ahead of time, and she spent most of the interview raving about the perfect blends of spices in the food and how happy she was to finally find a place that can properly season and fry a catfish. You could see how proud it made them to be getting this kind of exposure. With several DC restaurants suffering from their creators' absence as of late, it is wonderful to visit a place where ownership is a concept beyond a name on the marquee and a PR rep.
The intimate design of the place, even if done by necessity, is a welcoming one: you feel like you’ve walked into someone else’s kitchen, and they couldn’t be happier to have you there. (I am kicking my ass for having walked by this place so many times on the way to Ben’s, that sad excuse for a DC institution down the street, with its cardboard boxes of frozen half smokes, wimpy fries, and surly service, when I could’ve been at the counter at Oohhs and Aahhs, picking at wings and gulping down copious amounts of sweet tea.)
Most importantly, the food. The wings, mac and cheese, and cornbread extolled in this thread are exactly as they should be. Butter is prevalent, dried spices the norm (using their own blends), and you won’t find pork excessively used to flavor their veggies. In fact, you won’t find it used at all, and I was a bit surprised I didn’t miss it. Collard greens, long the victim of ridiculous amounts of fatback, are presented here in a simpler, truer form: salt, spices and a healthy but not overpowering amount of vinegar, slowly braised for a deep flavor. The star, for me, is the crab cake (broiled). For $18, you get two of these beautiful cakes, with just enough spices to enhance the crab flavor, not overwhelm it, and two sides. The meal could easily feed two, leaving you room for one of their cobblers or pies. If I lived anywhere near this place, I would be a complete lard ass by now.
I hope this place does well. I hope the word gets out and lines get long and this city finally has a soul food joint to be proud of. I hope the lines become longer than the lines at Ben’s, maybe even so long that they have to open up another venue or expand. Most of all, I hope Indiah Wilson and Oji Abbott will be here behind the counter for some time, doing what they do best – bringing some soul back to DC.
This post has been edited by Capital Icebox: 24 February 2006 - 11:55 PM