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Range, Chevy Chase - Chef Matthew McGhee Replaces Matt Hill, GM Jon Barry Replaces Steven Fowler in a 14,000 Square Foot Space - Closed


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Their "first look" video is up and the scope is ambitious, to say the least. I'm curious how the seating arrangement is going to work if you're looking for a variety of items beyond the specialties of the station in front of you, but this is going to be very interesting. Numerous in-dining-room kitchen stations, snout-to-tail locavore menus, and even a gift shop in partnership with Williams-Sonoma. Their OpenTable book has been filling quickly since it was opened to the public last week.

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...Their OpenTable book has been filling quickly since it was opened to the public last week...

I think Range is doing what many hot new opening restaurants do. MediumRare comes to mind from when they opened. They don't put all (or even most) of the tables on OpenTable so it'll seem more like there's huge demand. No doubt, Range will attract a lot of people immediately upon opening but probably a good idea to phone when able to figure out the policy and what really is available. Depending on how great the frenzy, maybe I'll plan on this for February since, if OpenTable is to be believed, there are no tables to be had between now and 1/31 except for Xmas Eve.

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gee if he could have found 500sq ft in there for a dedicated, in-house brewery it would've been perfect...oh well. I guess it's OK, he really needed that space for Williams Sonoma.

(just kidding)

14000 square feet, and only 300 seats! or did I mis-hear that?

Another thing for Don's list of things that broke first here--Rappahannock River Oysters, which I believe I read about in a post from Waitman back in maybe 2006 or 2007, and began buying 50 for my parents every Christmas...in the last two weeks I've seen them mentioned twice on Life After Top Chef and now in Voltaggio's video. At least for me, living in Denver but interested in DC foodways, it was the first I heard of them. Obviously hip locals knew before...

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This sure sounds like a large format experience, the biggest opening since the Hamilton downtown, where I have never been and who knows if I will ever get there. Reminds me of the kind of supper clubs urban socialites spent their evenings at in 1930s Hollywood movies, only an updated version where the food and the physical restaurant itself provide sufficient entertainment. It is going to take a lot of money coming in. If they can pull it off with cupcakes in Georgetown, surely...though Friendship Heights is not exactly on the beaten path of the hordes of visitors the nation's capital receives. I can envision the presidential motorcade driving up.

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With a menu like this is it even possible to do all of this well? This seems like a major undertaking and the only way to do this efficiently is going to become mass production assembly line without any feeling.

I will be in town and just made an open table reservation for Christmas Eve but I have some doubts here.

Someone please tell me I am wrong...

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With a menu like this is it even possible to do all of this well? This seems like a major undertaking and the only way to do this efficiently is going to become mass production assembly line without any feeling.

I will be in town and just made an open table reservation for Christmas Eve but I have some doubts here.

Someone please tell me I am wrong...

I don't know, only time will tell, but I think Bryan Voltaggio has been quite good at gauging what will be a successful business in his community and pulling it off well. But, Range isn't technically in his community and it's a pretty large endeavor. Still, I'm hopeful.

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surely...though Friendship Heights is not exactly on the beaten path of the hordes of visitors the nation's capital receives. I can envision the presidential motorcade driving up.

Maybe not POTUS, but Neil Patrick Harris (emcee for yesterday's tree lighting ceremony) and his partner, who is a chef, checked out Range last night according to NPH's Twitter feed.

They also checked out Graffiato, Toki Underground, and Izakaya Seki while they were in town.

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After viewing the video posted by Dave (thanks for doing that!) the thought that came to my mind was Inox, on a much grander scale. Bryan has a magnum vision here-- and given a much more workable location in Friendship Heights than Inox had in Tyson's Corner, I hope he can pull it off.

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After viewing the video posted by Dave (thanks for doing that!) the thought that came to my mind was Inox, on a much grander scale. Bryan has a magnum vision here-- and given a much more workable location in Friendship Heights than Inox had in Tyson's Corner, I hope he can pull it off.

About *gulp* 10 years ago I did a charity benefit with a select number of top chef's in the city. Although I only interacted with him briefly, I got to watch Bryan Voltaggio run his operation firsthand. At the time, he was maybe in his mid twenties and was both Executive Chef and GM of Charlie Palmer Steak. His focus, talent, and managerial skill were plainly evident and impressive. He was a young man who could clearly "do" things and "get things done". I've never seen Range, or even watched the video, but I would not be afraid of going broke betting on his (and its) success.

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Looking at the menu, I have three thoughts: (1) many years from now, this menu will seem as embarrassingly purely-of-its-time as a Flock of Seagulls haircut and legwarmers; (2) offering only one vegetarian main course on a menu this size - and making it a cheese pizza - is pretty remarkable; and (3) he will make a lot of money, because of (not in spite of) points 1 and 2.

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could there be a less PC dish than Wood Grilled Veal Heart ! :D

Scrolling down, one finds the bar menu, with a drink called "vegan sacrifice," with an ingredient called "beef ice" - which turns out, upon googling, to mean frozen veal stock. At this point, I know that early 21st century gourmets' semi-erotic relationship with meat* has reached the point of self-parody.

* paraphrasing a comment I saw, on a video yesterday, from the brilliant David Rees.

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could there be a less PC dish than Wood Grilled Veal Heart ! :D

Are you kidding? If it's locally sourced rose veal then it's spot on, especially since heart fits right in with the whole head-to-tail concept. ;)

I have to admit I don't get this critique: embarrassingly purely-of-its-time as a Flock of Seagulls haircut and legwarmers

Is he supposed to cook food that will stand the test of time or food that people want to eat right now? Maybe I'm just biased because most of that menu is right up my alley and my semi-erotic relationship with (locally sourced, pastured) meat is going strong. :D

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I have to admit I don't get this critique:

embarrassingly purely-of-its-time as a Flock of Seagulls haircut and legwarmers

Is he supposed to cook food that will stand the test of time or food that people want to eat right now? Maybe I'm just biased because most of that menu is right up my alley and my semi-erotic relationship with (locally sourced, pastured) meat is going strong. :D

I don't think that this question is the sort of thing where the phrase "supposed to" is pertinent. I saw the Flock of Seagulls and had a great time. Many people will have fun at this restaurant.

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I saw the Flock of Seagulls and I ran; I ran so far away.

(sorry. couldn't resist)

Do they play that one song 20 times in concert? I just can't recall any other songs by the Flock.

Anyone have any idea what is kimchi linguini? Is cod face really the face of a cod? And beef shin - why so expensive? Overall - lots of interesting stuff on that menu.

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Anyone have any idea what is kimchi linguini?

No.

Is cod face really the face of a cod?

Yes, mostly cheek.

And beef shin - why so expensive?

If you think about it, its not a particularly meaty part of the animal, so there is less of it per head. Also, do you know how to prepare shin? I don't. So taking the time and expert preparation into consideration, that could go into increased price. That and, people will pay based on intrigue :-p

I have to say that I am a huge fan of B.V. and that we will most definitely be trying out Range. My skepticism lies in the dining experience though. I don't doubt that they can produce and replicate great food (And that equipment, OH MY, Don't let Don see those sous vide vats). That menu looks fantastic to me. Although looking out into the lobby through those glass windows kind of makes it seem like you're dining in a mall.

I also don't really like the Williams-Sonoma shop. As if Bill's wares weren't pricey enough, here have some Brian Voltaggio All Clad !

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If you think about it, its not a particularly meaty part of the animal, so there is less of it per head. Also, do you know how to prepare shin? I don't. So taking the time and expert preparation into consideration, that could go into increased price. That and, people will pay based on intrigue :-p

Is shin somehow different than shank? I think not, in which case it's easy to prepare - a basic braise that you'd use for pork shoulder, beef or bison short ribs, etc. will do it justice.

I made this pork shank recipe once for a dinner club having never made it before and it received rave reviews. Ha, I just looked at the reviews and I actually wrote one at the time. I don't do that often, only for recipes I really love so that's saying something. Funny to look back and read it.

Yeah, anyway, feel free to ignore this entire post. Wine, fully belly, blah blah...

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Is shin somehow different than shank? I think not, in which case it's easy to prepare - a basic braise that you'd use for pork shoulder, beef or bison short ribs, etc. will do it justice.

I made this pork shank recipe once for a dinner club having never made it before and it received rave reviews. Ha, I just looked at the reviews and I actually wrote one at the time. I don't do that often, only for recipes I really love so that's saying something. Funny to look back and read it.

Yeah, anyway, feel free to ignore this entire post. Wine, fully belly, blah blah...

It's great pork shank recipe. If only it was easier to find great pork shanks....

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It's great pork shank recipe. If only it was easier to find great pork shanks....

Ah yes, I meant to mention that I made it using shanks from Bev at EcoFriendly after doing a considerable search and having to make a special trip to Dupont to get them. Probably why I haven't made that recipe since. :P

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Although looking out into the lobby through those glass windows kind of makes it seem like you're dining in a mall.

For those unfamiliar with this location, that is exactly what this is. Not that it should really matter. Chevy Chase Pavillion is a mini-enclosed mall that was recently renovated and now has this very cool new restaurant in it. I can't wait to try it.

It would be awesome if they had some type of lunch special, hint hint, for those of us who work nearby.

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Just got back from our first (but not last) meal at Range during their soft opening. In fact, we had the honor of being their first customers. Anyway, the space is huge and from the outside looks as if it would be impersonal and overwhelming. In truth, it felt more intimate than I expected. The tables are a nice distance from one another and they have clearly taken measures to try to keep the noise levels down. The seating is comfortable and encourages you to hang around longer than you might usually (we normally eat and split and spent a lot more time here than we would normally). There are both tables and counter space seating around the various stations (and no, you don't move around the stations, the food comes to you). From where we sat we could see both into the "core" main kitchen and several of the stations preparing food. Even though it was a soft opening everyone was very much on their toes and seemed to have a good grip of the menu (clearly they have put a lot of effort into training). The private dining spaces and rooms are absolutely lovely.

We tried tried the tasting of terrines (potted foie gras, country pork in pastry, liver pudding, garlic sausage with pistachio, and a couple of other sausage-type meats). All in all, everything was very solid although I did pine for a pinch of Malvern salt on my potted foie gras. The only complaint we had with the yellowfin tuna was that there wasn't enough of it. The whole rabbit served hunter style was my favorite thing of the night. They deboned the rabbit, stuffed it with meat and herbs and rolled it before roasting it. Wonderfully moist and full of flavor, it will be hard not to get stuck on that dish and order it every time. We tried the ciabatta bread from the bakery station, but then second guessed our choice when we saw the other wonderful-looking breads being served at tables around us.

Given the amount of wine on display around the restaurant I would have liked to see more wines available by the glass, but it is entirely possible that they had an abridged wine list until they officially open on the 18th.

There was so much on the menu that we wanted to try, given the high standards tonight we can't wait to go back for a pork and lamb night at Range, although that rabbit sure was good.....

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Ms. Alex and were lucky enough to snag a reservation for Dec. 24. My cousins (two of them) just asked if they could join us and, since there's absolutely nothing now available on OpenTable, also asked if we could call Range and see if somehow they could turn our two-top into a four. I told them I could try, but couldn't locate a phone number anywhere. The only # on their website was for a publicist, I think. The cousins live not far from Range, so one of them could always stop by, but I was wondering if anyone here had a phone number for the restaurant. Thanks.

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Nice soft launch opening night for Range. Was able to snag a bar seat by the front door. Walked though a number of dishes (small plates emphasized) while chatting up bar staff and fellow patrons. Space looks great, as others have noted before.

Cheddar Chive Biscuits w/ Pepper Jelly. Very nice with the highlight of Pepper Jelly with more heat than expected.

Update: the Roasted Bone Marrow with Golden Raisins & Garlic. A sweet dish with the raisins, definitely liked this. One of the better bone marrow dishes that I've had in DC.

Tagliatelle w/ Beef Cheek Stroganoff & Lacinato Kale. The beef cheeks were sliced fine a la carpaccio or ham. Mushroom are added to the dish as well and added to the overall flabor (surprised this wasn't listed on the menu). Nice subtle flavor, I enjoyed it. Dish was cooked well. Pasta at Range will be in the 4oz portion size.

The couple next to me got the Goat Cheese Ravioli w/ Braised Meat Ragu, they raved over the depth of flavor, especially of the ragu.

For dessert, there are 'candy counter' vs. traditional sweets options. Candy is presented via cart where you're dining (nice touch). I especially liked the fancy to-go dessert boxes that the staff offers if you're currently full. Fits well with the Friendship Heights location ;)

Nice to see the bar staff are veterans and are happy to go off-menu if asked. It didn't seem like Day 1 soft launch tonight.

All in all, well executed dishes and good friendly bar service. Paid attention to the other bar patrons most of the night, lots of smiling faces when trying cocktails and sampling dishes. Excellent night, at least at the bar.

Update: added Bone Marrow, in-house made Ginger Beer observations and more pics. Smartphone updates a tad painful lol.

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I made a reservation on Open Table and was trying to change it, with no luck. I finally posted something on their Facebook page. Someone from Range did respond and changed my reservation. So until they open and list a telephone number, I recommend Facebook.

Hmm...no phone number...

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Say hi next time! (I had to wake up at some crazy hour several weeks ago to get this res, not unlike shopping for a new Apple product.)

I am told that the lack of a phone number was not intentional, and that Range only got their phone lines plumbed in a couple of days ago. Even so, your chances for getting a walk-in seat aren't entirely zero so long as you can deal with bar seating: there are a few stylish lounge four-tops (with unfortunately awkwardly proportioned sofas for seating...try sitting in one and you'll see what I mean) in front of the bar, plus the bar itself, and bars in front of several of the kitchens placed throughout the dining area.

It's too early for anybody to review this place as a going concern, and my guess is that they'll still be sorting out the FOH processes for the next few months, so don't draw too many conclusions from the early reports including this one. It was clear that Voltaggio (who was working in the central kitchen alongside his staff) was already tweaking processes and ordering additional supplies and wares to improve his operations, for instance some visual distinctions between still and sparkling water vessels. They clearly hadn't fully worked out a system for matrixing so many specialty kitchens - each one basically with its own pass - against so many orders yet. Espresso isn't available yet, nor are the housemade sodas. Some condiments were either unavailable or had already been changed. There is no parking validation at the moment.

Range's concept is ambitious, and almost Batali-esque in its attempts to cover so much different ground. Range is practically four or five restaurants in one, from the seafood raw bar to the wood-fired oven, to the bakery, the main kitchen, the dessert bar and the drinks bar, each with its own staff of specialists. You have to remember that unlike his last two restaurants, this one is opening far, far away from his power base at Volt, and at this size it's almost as if he's building a series of teams from scratch. That's not to say that the servers weren't helpful and gracious to the very last one, but considering the number of floor managers with earpieces hovering throughout the room, there was a surprising degree of not-yet-organized chaos visible beneath the surface.

But what a kitchen team! The bar crew, under Owen's management, brings serious cocktail creativity closer to the MoCo border than it's ever been before, and pours much of it in very appropriately-sized coupes which will probably draw some the undeserved ire of some well-heeled patrons who really just want a giant martini glass of cold vodka. Our own Poivrot Farci lords over the meats, including a version of his pâté en croûte of pork and squab with pickles. Partway into our meal, pizza man flagged me down as I was returning to my seat; out of their wood-fired oven, his margherita ($12) remains noteworthy, although mysteriously it arrived precut into quarters ;)

The menu we were presented wasn't exactly the same as the one online, but close enough to give you an idea of what's in store. We did find it a bit odd that there were no soups at all, and precious few green things offered apart from the sprouts, kale, and a couple of items from the garde manger. The by-the-glass wine list could also really use a Riesling option. The menu is nominally "small plates" with a few exceptions, and our server told us that three plates were suggested. Personally, I think you'd be well sated at three plates per diner, as most things came in somewhat more generous portions than one might see at other "small plates" concepts. It wasn't always evident just how large some of the items would be, so it would be wise to ask about the sharing potential of specific items.

I'm only going to call out a few things from our visit. First, while the selection of hams was credible but not really awe-inspiring (except for the gloriously funky EcoFriendly Virginia prosciutto, which I thought roundly trounced the vaunted Surryano), the terrines and pâtés were outstanding, including the best head cheese I've had. The potted foie ($21) was incredibly creamy and rich, and I would suggest is really too large a serving, even factoring in sharing. Baked goods were also quite strong, with the skillet cornbread perfectly browned underneath without residual greasiness, and a much better interpretation of bacon marmalade than the original item from Brooklyn. The lobster dusted with chilies, garlic, and shallots was also terrific. And do get the brussels sprouts.

We also loved the tagliatelle, which had the perfect amount of chew, suggesting that somebody had taken the care to dry it to the ideal moisture content before cooking. Meanwhile, the unbelievably plump goat cheese ravioli was marred by a fresh and delicate pasta that was just slightly undercooked and doughy. Difficult to pull that trick off without the ravioli falling apart, but they *almost* nailed it, and deep down I was really encouraged that they hadn't just tried to pass off a one-dough-fits-all pasta.

I don't know who designed the space but it's suitably modern (as opposed to Family Meal, which looks much spiffier than it has any right to), even if some of the design choices don't work anywhere as well as they look. The aforementioned lounge seats are tres chic, but the armrests interfere with entry and egress and the backs are set so deeply that most patrons will end up awkwardly perched on the front edge. The bathroom design seems to have sprung full grown from some architect's head without much practical testing. There are huge glass sliding doors to the bathrooms that you must first recognize as doors, and then find the fingerhole grab to open. They seem to have some sort of inertial open/close "helper" on the track, but it's too slow-reacting to be of any practical value (I only noticed them because I paused to study a door as I exited). The faucets and valves are touchless, but not the soap dispenser. And I'm predicting that in the subdued lighting, more than a few people will accidentally walk into the mirror adjacent to the door while reaching for the reflection of the handle.

To be blunt, I predict it's going to take them a couple of months to figure out how to make the FOH really flow, and that might hurt them with the critics' first looks. The cooking is also not in the style of uber-modern dining that Voltaggio is famous for. Still, for the adventurous diner, the potential of the menu should already be magnetic. Take the Metro there, grab a bar seat (since the tables seem to be booked into January), pick carefully, and explore a couple of plates and glasses at a time.

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To be blunt, I predict it's going to take them a couple of months to figure out how to make the FOH really flow, and that might hurt them with the critics' first looks.

Dave, I've got news for you, and for everyone else.

It *did* hurt them with a critic's first look: yours. You are a critic, and a very, very skilled one. You "get it" as much as any restaurant critic in town, including me. When, if ever, are our members going to realize the power and authority that they have here (which, by the way, you and collije consistently exercise responsibly)?

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Doh, I knew that other DR folk were likely there but I admit I can only generally recognize Rocks. Need to work on that. I was chatting away with those around me for hours, always happy to chat / socialize over food.

The bathroom slider door I took time to evaluate too. Yeah it seemed like it had the function to be a helper door, but in reality it was too slow and / or didn't function as expected.

I did try one of their in-house sodas, the ginger beer. Lacking in carbonation and frankly flavor for me. I should have spoken up but didn't (my bad). It's Day-1, so I'll give it another try sometime.

Oh but if in the mood for a boozy after-dinner drink, try the Blazed Abbott that's on the menu (rum, chartreuse, orange, put on fire and served nice and warm). Cough, good hooch! Sip please.

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I was on picture duty!

This the outside. Chevy Chase Pavilion has been completely redone. Hard to say what would make it a shopping destination, though. Far as I can tell, Range is the Destination. Many of us could not recall having been to CCP within the past ... well, a long time ago.

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Skillet cornbread and bacon marmalade.

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Ham tasting. We had ordered the full tasting of hams, cured meats, and terrines, but the terrines appeared much later, and after reminding.

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Baker's basket and spreads: a Carb Loader's Delight!™

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Seafood Half Tower. Leaving unanswered questions for the next time.

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Lobster with chilies, garlic, and shallots. Good heat balance.

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Goat cheese-gob ravioli with braised meat ragu.

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Tagliatelle with ham and crispy kale.

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Checking out the char on the margherita. o hai

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Margherita, anterior.

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So just when you thought it couldn't get crazier, well ... it did.

Hello, terrines!

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TERRINE CLOSE UP

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Potted foie gras. The only reason I'm withholding a "too much" comment is: had this come at the beginning of the meal, it would have been dead to rights. Food, like comedy, is all about timing.

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Highly beefy Beef Heart. ("How was it?" "Offal!")

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"Everything" Mashed Potatoes. Truly.

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Our server insisted Chef was truly excited to have on the menu: a merguez-stuffed lamb shank (I forgot to pinch the menu.) I believe he used the term "jumping up and down."

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Dessert cart - all kinds of goodness. I think we opted for peppermint bark and an assortment of chocolates. Quoth Michael Jackson, "can't stop 'till you get enough."

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Yes we did. Really, we did. ALL of it! :-)

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:D I didn't even intend to eat last night, just wanted to figure out how getting bar seats would work during soft launch for a +1 and I to goto town on the menu.

According to the outside host station, it's TBD each day how bar seats will be handled during soft launch. Last night was walk-in, they'll know tonight's approach just before opening. Little weird IMO. There was little issue last night with folks trying to get bar seats. Most at the bar were either awaiting their table rez to be available, it simply checking the place out with a drink or two.

A friend and I will be trying more soon. need to try that merguez-stuffed lamb shank and beef heart.

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Doesn't anyone else find that menu is incredibly expensive?

Incredibly expensive? If you said Minibar or Little Inn I might agree with you (j/k).

To me it's the relative new trend of small plates emphasis (there's some large plates / normal entrée portions to be sure) . Some diners will likely over-order as well on the small plates initially, adding to increased cost.

But there's enough dishes on the menu that are relative value. Roasted Bone Marrow in the low teens, bread is very cheap (dig the Biscuits & pepper jam), and more basic pastas and pizza that don't have expensive ingredients are accessible pricepoint-wise for everyone. I think Bryan did a reasonable job with providing options for many diners. He did spend $ on the place and location (yes yes I'm sure he negotiated well, even with whatever deals / discounts he could make).

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