Washington Post Dining Guide

[Meaghan]

Chat today. A nonny mouse bitchin'....

[The Hersch]

Really? Define Italian cuisine for us.

I'd rather not. But Palena, while certainly presenting some Italian inflections, is to my way of thinking pre-eminently an American restaurant. Restaurant Eve serves things like polenta and risotto; shouldn't it be listed under Italian restaurants too?

[chuchelo]

Why must there be 1/2 stars?

2/3/4 stars are defined but what does it really mean to say a place has gained or lost half a star?

[TedE]

RE: the Ethiopian "snub"

Washington, DC: Tom,

Given all of the examples that uniquely exist in our fair city I was curious why there was not a single Ethiopian restaurant listed in your ethnic best bets? You've hinted recently that some former favorites have slipped, but have they slipped so far that not a single one merits a recommendation? Not doubting your judgment, just wondering why such a staple of local cuisine (and one that always comes up as something D.C. should be proud of) is completely absent.

Tom Sietsema: I knew I'd get this question, and it's a good one. For the guide, I went back to a few Ethiopian restaurants that I previously liked and didn't find one that was noticeably better than the others. Etete is fine -- period. I enjoyed it a lot more a year ago. Given how much more I liked the work at the other places in the "ethnic" category, I decided not to include an Ethiopian representative this time around.

[giant shrimp]

RE: the Ethiopian "snub"

not exactly the answer i was expecting. they were all so good that they nudged each other out.

[Heather]

Why must there be 1/2 stars?

2/3/4 stars are defined but what does it really mean to say a place has gained or lost half a star?

We went over this on another thread recently. Perhaps someone with a better memory will remember which one it was.

[Joe H]

Maybe I'm wrong but I thought he meant that other "ethnic" (not Ethiopean) restaurants were respectively better for what they were which is why he did not include an Ethiopean.

[Heather]

It was nice of someone to ask my question:

Arlington, Va.: Do you regard all three branches of Jaleo as equally strong? It seems like they each have their own strengths and weaknesses, but your guide and past reviews tend to lump them together.

Tom Sietsema: The Jaleo in Washington's Penn Quarter -- the original tapas restaurant -- is my favorite.

[giant shrimp]

Maybe I'm wrong but I thought he meant that other "ethnic" (not Ethiopean) restaurants were respectively better for what they were which is why he did not include an Ethiopean.

sounds to me like he's tired of ethiopian. (it can happen.)

[Joe H]

REALLY interesting question because it's been my experience that most if not all "chain" or "mini chain" restaurants are NOT equal. I would suggest that just as the original Ruth's Chris/Morton's/Uno's/Ninfa's/Emeril's/Roy's/L'atalier Robuchon/Pizzaria Regina/Spago/Five Guys/etc., etc. are not on par with each other that the same may be true with several of our mini chains. My one experience with Jaleo in Bethesda was not the same as several with Jaleo downtown. Perhaps an asterisk is in order to note which outpost the rating is based on.

Still, as In 'n Out has amply demonstrated 150+ times over there can be consistency if genuine excellence is indeed important....

...I had to mention In 'n Out in my 777th post!

Edited October 16, 2006 by Joe H

[chuchelo]

We went over this on another thread recently. Perhaps someone with a better memory will remember which one it was.

Whoops, I had no idea it was such a touchy subject... Oh well.

[Heather]

Whoops, I had no idea it was such a touchy subject... Oh well.

Not touchy. I just remembered it had happened recently.

[goldenticket]

Not touchy. I just remembered it had happened recently.

While I think I would prefer NOT to remember the whole thing, it started here...

[jrichstar]

Wondering if anyone noted this from the chat, but in a question near the end on inexpensive restaurants, Tom was indicating Amici Miei, Joe's Noodle House and Guajillo were in "the guide" when they are not this year. Amici Miei was in last year and Guajillo in 2004 and not sure about Joe's. Just wanted to know if I was missing something. Perhaps these were some of the last minute omissions Tom referred to in the chat?

[Mark Slater]

Dining Guide

[Capital Icebox]

Dining Guide

Congrats to Eve on their first four stars from Tom (and also for moving to Arlington!).

[chickenlover]

Let me be the first to complain about the star ratings. According to the stars Rasika is a better restaurant than Palena, and Jaleo is a better restaurant than Corduroy. I happen to like both Rasika and Jaleo, but c'mon.

[youngfood]

Let me be the first to complain about the star ratings. According to the stars Rasika is a better restaurant than Palena, and Jaleo is a better restaurant than Corduroy. I happen to like both Rasika and Jaleo, but c'mon.

That's fair. Maybe Tom is considering value? Rasika and Jaleo are both less expensive than Corduroy or Palena (main dining room). Also, the comparisons you make are of restaurants that he lists in different categories. Maybe the system makes more sense if you consider the ratings in that context.

[monavano]

Congrats to Eve on their first four stars from Tom (and also for moving to Arlington!).

Apparently the food section got my message and moved it to Alexandria. Hope the print version is correct

[chickenlover]

That's fair. Maybe Tom is considering value? Rasika and Jaleo are both less expensive than Corduroy or Palena (main dining room). Also, the comparisons you make are of restaurants that he lists in different categories. Maybe the system makes more sense if you consider the ratings in that context.

Any time a critic makes a ranked list people are going to pick it apart. That's just the nature of the beast. Overall, I don't have any big problems with Seitsema's ratings. It just seems that he values decor/ambiance more than I do--which could explain his nicking Palena and Corduroy and elevating Rasika. I'm not sure what's going on with Jaleo. He just likes it a lot more than I do.

[The Hersch]

I think the star ratings are absurd. Corduroy and Oyamel rate the same? That's preposterous. Thai Square and Palena the same? Mind-boggling. Now, if anyone out there is thinking "I agree! Oyamel is much better than Corduroy!" or "Right! How could anyone think that Palena is as good as Thai Square??" then perhaps I'm wrong.

[Pool Boy]

If Tom wants to knock Palena down to 3 stars this go around, that is fine with me. It means I'll get a reservation that much easier! People who know food know Palena rocks.

And Restaurant Eve getting 4 stars? A puzzlement. Granted a single experience is my only basis for comparison, but it wasn't miraculous for me. Maybe I ought to go back and try it again...And IIRC, CityZen is 4 stars too? Whatever...

[lackadaisi]

"Right! How could anyone think that Palena is as good as Thai Square??" then perhaps I'm wrong.

Completely different animals, and in no way a knock on Palena, but the meal I had at Thai Square this weekend certainly justifies its rating. It kicked ass!!!! As it always does.

[monsterriffs]

I think the star ratings are absurd. Corduroy and Oyamel rate the same? That's preposterous. Thai Square and Palena the same? Mind-boggling. Now, if anyone out there is thinking "I agree! Oyamel is much better than Corduroy!" or "Right! How could anyone think that Palena is as good as Thai Square??" then perhaps I'm wrong.

I suspect that this is one of those instances where ambience and decor factor into the star rating more than the food in the case of Oyamel v. Corduroy. I agree that the food is better at Corduroy than at Oyamel, but Corduroy's dining room feels musty, bland, and like you'd find a packet of Werther's Originals in the seat cushions that a batty blue-hair left behind at some point, whereas, Oyamel's vibrancy really trumps any misgivings of the food.

[squidsdc]

Discussion starts at noon.

[jdl]

How about moving to Los Angeles, where there are no four-star restaurants, according to the LA Times dining critic S. Irene Virbila ... and there's just one 3.5-star: Spago.

Great place to be if you want to argue about star ratings.

The Batali-Nancy Silverton pizzeria, Mozza, gets three stars -- same as Providence? Pshaw.

[DonRocks]

In the bold-face highlight that accompanies the Ray's The Steaks review, Tom offers the highly unusual insight that "you and your sewer can wear jeans." One can only guess as to the depths of his Delphic wisdom.

And you can see it for yourself if you don't believe it: The 2005 Dining Guide is currently front-and-center in the Washington, DC travel section at Barnes and Noble, Falls Church. This reminds me of several places I haven't been to in awhile: Maestro, Galileo, Inn at Easton, Colvin Run Tavern, Aster ...

[Tujague]

Some interesting changes on the 2008 dining guide--a new 4-star restaurant, and another 4-star demoted. A few restaurants added even though they're in transitions. And at least one that Rocks will take exception to...

[jparrott]

Linkity

[Heather]

I see one glaring omission.

[genericeric]

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/cityg...8/dining-guide/

[giant shrimp]

for its omissions alone, the list registers with me as more provocative than usual, though the selections aren't that surprising if you've been following along with his reviews and discussions. we knew the service issue with citronelle was coming and received early warning about vidalia straying from its roots. strategically, the list distances itself from the opinions of other well-know food critics in this area. i'm not sure that the rating system is entirely accurate either. as much as i like buck's, is it on the same level as palena (three stars), even on the occasions when something is oversalted at the latter? before guaranteeing your readers that a particular restaurant is a "sure bet," you would have to visit a restaurant more times than tom will ever be able to do. i'm not sure that such a thing exists, and if that's the underlying criterion that was used this year, then this list is a somewhat misleading description of the area's dining scene.

[synaesthesia]

I think the continuing mystery is his keen admiration for Jaleo. Three stars?! The same as Proof? Maybe they know what his disguise looks like...

[Poivrot Farci]

the chef's hanger steak, marinated in soy sauce and cherry juice, is as explosively juicy as that cut gets

Do the servers waiters offer a bib and goggles or extra-strength Maalox?

[baczkowski]

I think the continuing mystery is his keen admiration for Jaleo. Three stars?! The same as Proof? Maybe they know what his disguise looks like...

And the lack of distinction between the Bethesda and DC location. Despite its close proximity, we don't even consider the Bethesda branch after so many underwhelming-to-bad experiences there. I couldn't give that place more than 1 star.

Another provocative part of the list is the amazing range of restaurants with a 2 1/2 star rating. I think it really underscores why so many people on this board were pissed with "just" 2 1/2 stars for Corduroy. I actually don't have a problem with such a large range, but it certainly elicits discussion.

Pax,

Brian

[Wine Guy 23]

I heard some restaurants gained and lost some stars? what were the highlights? heard the biggest were KOMI and Citronelle? please enlighten as I missed the guide being in LV now

[ulysses]

well...Jean Louis kept its fourth star and Provence and Coco Loco maintained, the up and comer Galileo was the big breakthrough but....

[youngfood]

I'm surprised the 2008 dining guide didn't generate more discussion. I thought it was great and was really pleasantly surprised at how impressed I was. I thought I might know what it would say before reading it or that I'd have several serious criticisms of it, but I really don't other than that for me Vidalia is better now than ever, but I can appreciate that some folks probably prefer a different style that Vidalia's past may have better represented. I particularly enjoyed a few of the recommendations that I've never tried, like Great Wall, Marvin and Et Voila, and some that I haven't heard much about recently, like Obelisk and Buck's, which will go on the to try list. I get most of my info here and tend to be a big Kliman fan, but the 2008 guide is going to be on my coffee table for quite a while.

[DonRocks]

Washington Post 2009 Dining Guide by Tom Sietsema.

And now for the fritter question.

First we need to understand what the mushroom fritter means to the restaurant and the reason that everyone gets one. The mushroom fritter is indicative of what we do from a technique standpoint. Here you have a small, bite sized dish, that really only has 5 ingredients used in all three recipes. A very simple dish with such an intense result. Slicing thinly the mushrooms and drying for powder, making a sauce so silky smooth that in the end the fritter is really just a vehicle to be able to eat the sauce. It means welcome and it shows you what you are in store for. Dishes that satisfy you with flavor and refinement.

You read about CityZen, the restaurant that changes all the time, but never the fritter. I can’t tell you how many people come for dinner, and ask for another round of the fritters. If this happens we thank them by giving a basket with a pool of the sauce on the side to dip them in. We even have regulars that request no mushrooms with their meal, but insist on the fritter.

However there are the times that guests, like Don Rockwell, just don’t like the fritter, and that’s ok. (Don doesn’t really like anything at CityZen anyway) We are happy to give another canapé. The guests that do come and don’t turn it away, understand that it’s like being welcomed by an old friend at the start of a new journey.

I'm just kidding, we love Don

Rachael

Tom's right.

[Tujague]

Nice to see Rasika become the fifth four-star restaurant (joining CityZen, Komi, Restaurant Eve Tasting Room, and Inn at Little Washington...)

[Waitman]

Nice to see Rasika become the fifth four-star restaurant (joining CityZen, Komi, Restaurant Eve Tasting Room, and Inn at Little Washington...)

He's clearly been getting better meals there than I have. Not that they've been bad, but four star? No way.

And 2.5 for Bombay Club?

Tom's clearly in the tank for Ashok.

Link to the Guide.

[TedE]

Nice to see Rasika become the fifth four-star restaurant (joining CityZen, Komi, Restaurant Eve Tasting Room, and Inn at Little Washington...)

Now I think we know why he has been so vocally defending Rasika in the chats as of late. Several folks have taken him to task for it citing recent experiences, but at least he's sticking to his guns. Wonder when the print deadline was?

[pizza man]

Nice to see 2941 go up a half star.

[hungry prof]

Surprised not to see New Heights. I thought Tom's relatively recent review was pretty strong.

[mr food]

Dino should be one of the 50.

[giant shrimp]

what happened to buck's? i miss carole greenwood, but buck's has really been coming into its own lately.

[derekmbrown]

Top ten cocktails include some greats from Todd Thrasher, Gina Chersevani, Stefan Trummer (a ringer from NYC) and Jason Stritch of Rasika, although "...purist when it comes to most of the classics," might be better stated as "I love these great adaptations on the classics..." Manhattan with cherry juice, Margarita with ginger, clear Bloody Mary, and Dark and Stormy with muddled limes. Still, glad to see cocktails take the stage.

[DanCole42]

A shame not to see Vidalia up there. It really is some of the most accessible upper echelon fine dining anywhere.

[sandynva]

Now I think we know why he has been so vocally defending Rasika in the chats as of late. Several folks have taken him to task for it citing recent experiences, but at least he's sticking to his guns. Wonder when the print deadline was?

his defenses of Rasika have gotten ridiculous lately, but maybe this explains it, he's trying to justify what he said in the guide. and i'm glad he's at least stopped claiming it's some of the best indian in the country, which was absolutely absurd as anyone who's had good indian in ny/nj knows.

i can't believe he didn't include vidalia! or tosca!

[Hannah]

his defenses of Rasika have gotten ridiculous lately, but maybe this explains it, he's trying to justify what he said in the guide. and i'm glad he's at least stopped claiming it's some of the best indian in the country, which was absolutely absurd as anyone who's had good indian in ny/nj knows.

He hasn't stopped at all - the radio spots on WTOP over the weekend featured him proclaiming it the best Indian restaurant in the US. Granted, Rasika's very good, but even assuming that you choose to limit the comparison to fine-dining Indian, I'd happily argue the toss with Tabla, and Devi's in there as a strong contender as well.