Bistro Poplar, Modern Continental Bistro in Cambridge, Open Thu-Sun Evenings with Small Plates on Sunday

[darkstar965]

Bistro Poplar is a French-inspired, new American spot emphasizing local seafood, produce and a strong kitchen. It has been open about 3 and a half years. Chef Ian Cambell is clearly part of a newer and very talented corps of locally centered chefs on the Eastern Shore having studied at CIA and worked with Andrew Evans at the Inn at Easton and Thomas Keller in Yountville. We headed here for dinner this weekend and really enjoyed it.

Here's a short excerpt from the Bistro's own website:

"Chef Campbell uses many local ingredients for the bistro's traditional recipes. Simple and hearty are good descriptions of bistro fare, and Bistro Poplar strives to remain true to these while providing attentive, yet unassuming service. The menu changes seasonally, with freshness and quality being the main focus."

HEADLINE

In a world where many restaurants claim all kinds of crazy things on their websites, the above excerpt is totally accurate. A very nice menu, expertly prepared with a couple interesting options. Fine dining but decent value at somewhat higher prices. Not a destination in the sense of prioritizing this if just in the area for a night or two (with what else is available in Easton and elsewhere) but a nice choice for variety if in the area for several days or more. Very friendly, efficient and attentive crew.

VENUE

Hadn't been in Cambridge much before but, without exploring it very thoroughly, it seems to be struggling a bit with the down economy; saw some vacant storefronts on the main drag, etc. That impression stands in some contrast to the fairly active harbor filled with various smaller yachts and cruising vessels. The drive from Easton is about 20-25 minutes south on 50.

Bistro Poplar stands a bit in contrast (in a very positive, bright and enticing sort of way) to the rest of the street on which it's located. Maybe about 20-24 tables with a combination of free-standing tables and some booth type setups along the perimeter of the rectangular dining room. Clean design that doesn't really prompt specific attention but, rather, serves to not distract from the food and conversation and conveys simplicity with casual elegance. In short, dining room design very much mirrors the restaurant's philosophy and menu.

SERVICE

We got a short-notice table on a busy Saturday night thanks to our inn's help and Natalie's hospitality. From the instant we entered until we left, we were helped by 3 to 5 different people who were all very friendly and seemed genuinely enthusiastic about the Bistro and about serving guests. Staff (both front of house and kitchen) are a definite plus in BP's favor. As the excerpt above claims, the staff were very much attentive but not assuming but I'd also add very sincere and friendly.

FOOD

Everything was carefully prepared and presented with fresh ingredients. A few dishes surprised more than most of the others but there were no real disappointments and this is in keeping with the restaurant's focus. More specifically, we had:

- A traditional Onion Soup Gratinee ($8): Classic preparation that maybe could have used a bit more salt or seasoning but overall was quite satisfying with sweet onions and gruyere.

- Fried Green Tomatoes w/ Crab Hash and Beurre Monte ($16): Friends ordered this and I didn't try it but it was easy to tell this was a big hit. Visually, two large and thick tomato slices with crispy thin breading and ample portion of crab...remoulade...

- Black Sea Bass w/ avocado, corn and tomato confit salad ($26): My SO and I both went for this since a local (Ocean City) fish. Very fresh and perfectly cooked. A minor quibble that the skin could have been a bit crispier but we both loved and finished this generously portioned (two full fillets over the chopped avocado, corn and tomato) dish. The tomato confit was rich, sweet and full of fresh flavor.

- Atlantic Cod w/ curry risotto ($23): Simple preparation that looked fresh and good. Our friend who ordered this finished it happily.

- Sea Scallops w/ Panzanella Salad ($28): Another friend ordered these and, suffice to say, these scallops were both very fresh and cooked well. Crispy exteriors and sweet and nicely cooked interiors. Nothing overly creative but genuinely enjoyable. Much better than a similar dish at Mason's in Easton I had the previous day.

- Truffled Mac & Cheese Gratin ($5): Served straight-from-the-oven piping hot, this was delicious. Again not something so innovative but expertly done and very tasty. It didn't last long on the table between the two of us who shared it.

- Sauteed Spinach w/ garlic side ($5): Like so many of the dishes, great ingredients allowed to shine without any obstructionism disguised as experimentation. My vegetable-loving SO enjoyed this.

- Cappuccino ($4): I blew it to not ask what coffee they were using since they offered a full assortment of espressos and drip. Whatever the espresso roast was, it was good and full flavored.

- Carmelized Peach Pie w/ creamy lavender sorbet ($9): After a full day of very good to great food on the Eastern Shore, we didn't have it in us to order desserts all around so we shared this one between 3 of us. Maybe one of the more interesting dishes but very successfully executed as everything else was. Fresh sweet seasonal peaches enclosed in a slightly sweet and browned (carmelized) pastry. I started wondering what the difference between ice cream and a "creamy sorbet" might be but that faded as I just really enjoyed the creamy sweet deliciousness floral overtones. Really nice dessert.

- 2008 Trimbach Pinot Blanc ($38): Perfect pairing for the scallops and fish with nice crispness, minerality and fruit. About triple the retail price.

VALUE

We came in at just over $200 for 4 with the bottle of wine and pre tax and tip. I'm not sure how good or bad a price the wine was but, overall, this seemed very fair for what we had. This is a spot probably well positioned and priced for its community. Very good value.

BOTTOM LINE

A thoroughly enjoyable meal from a Chef and restaurant that actually is doing what they claim to do. This area (Easton, Cambridge, St Michaels, etc.) feels under-represented on dr.com and perhaps much improved from even a few years ago with several very good and worthwhile options for 'discriminating palates.' Surely Ian Cambell and Bistro Poplar are full members of this club. Go if in Cambridge or even make the 20-30 min drive if in the general area for more than a few days.

[rorkin]

Looking around more, I think it's covered generally under Baltimore and Annapolis -- found recommendations for a couple places (Bartlett Pear Inn in Easton, Bistro Poplar in Cambridge), though not centralized. But that helps a lot.

In Cambridge, Bistro Poplar. Several visits though none in last year. Both visits were excellent. Well prepared , good service. Not cheap but i would consider excellent.