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Washingtonian "Best Restaurants" Issue


Sudhir Seth

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Heck... maybe we should start rating our customers. "That 4-shot-small-Americano guy... he's 2.5 stars."

We always went by a different customer rating system when I worked at bars....number of drinks required.

"Man, that girl in the white sweater by the window...2 drinks, tops"

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I was flipping through this thread again and it struck me that in the midst of the classic Inside-the-Beltway analysis of the metrics of restaurant rating, we all entirely missed the larger point:

This issue is a declaration that the torch has been passed to a new generation, that the 11 kids on the cover and the 55 who replaced old-timers on the list inside have transformed and revitalized the dining scene in the last five years at a rate significantly surpassing normal evolutionary activity (in an intelligent design-type blink of a too-complex-too-evolve-type human eye, you might say) and are now the cookers who count.

(a declaration -- I'd suggest -- by those who, like the critics and gallery owners who forced the impressionists, abstract expressionists and countless other artistic styles on a stogy public, are excited both to honestly criticize and unabashedly spotlight this band of culinary fauves)

Is it true? Maybe. Who were we talking about just two years ago, before Kliman & Co had a few beers and said "fuck the geezers, let's see what the kids are up too? Cafe Milano? I Ricchi? Jean Michel? The Palm? Could anybody on this board under 35 have actually found these places with a map? How many forgettable French and Italian places were on the list, and how many of the few slots reserved for ethnic eateries were coasting on reputations years old, while places like Etete, Viet Royale or the Colorado Kitchen labored in undeserved obscurity.

And what's happening to the Chefs d'antagne? Yannick is irrelevant. Ris is on Sabbatical. Roberto is starring in Home Improvement. Ricchi has a new place but he doesn't cook. Pangaud is a professor. Patrick O'Connel -- "still does a lovely job after all these years. I think our 25th is coming up, maybe we'll rent a room and get the lobster and grapefruit again, like on our first date."

Course, none of this means that the new generation is the real shit. 'Round about 1960, Elvis got drafted, Jerry Lee got blacklisted, Chuck Berry got busted and Carl Perkins got in an accident, and it was a long goddamn time before John and Paul and Mick and Keith stepped up to fill the those boys' blue suede shoes.

Could Brendan Cox be the Neil Sedaka of Washington cooking? Is Cathal actually Frankie Valley with a white jacket and a chips joint (and would that explain PX? :P )

I don't think so. A couple of the cover boys have already rocketed into the rarified air of 3 and 4 start recognition, most notably Ziebold, Armstrong and Monis.

But the old guard aren't all going quietly. Michel Richard, Fabio Trabocchi at one and two. Frank Ruta. Something like 43% of all restaurants on the hot 100 list are owned by Jose Andres (why didn't Kat get the cover, btw?). More than a few of the pictured chefs still labor in the shadow of guys with names like Buben or Landrum (though he's probably one of the sans-culottes -- as mdt might put it -- himself) or corporate masters like Kimpton Hotels. And, if Keith Richards can come back, so can Yannick -- and so will Roberto Donna.

So, massive changing of the guard -- and with it, significant improvement in the dining scene? Or just the new guys trying to prove how cool they are, by razzing Robert Shoffner's picks?

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I was flipping through this thread again and it struck me that in the midst of the classic Inside-the-Beltway analysis of the metrics of restaurant rating, we all entirely missed the larger point:

Quite an interesting read, Waitman!

I think the shift in the DC dining scene directly relates to the shift/change in the city (DC) itself. DC has become a much more liveable, interesting city over the past 10 years (IMHO). More than ever, folks are living and going out in the District. While not all of DC's new residents are interested in good food (a walk past the Verizon Center will confirm this) there are just more folks around that are. DC has come of age as an "actual city" and its food presence in the world has risen. It makes sense to me that the next generation of chefs (and the more inventive chefs of the "old guard") are the ones who are siezing the opportunity and expanding our food horizons.

Also - as we continue further into the next generation of chefs, what is the grunge equivalent? Who is the "Kurt Cobain" of the DC Dining Scene?!?! :P

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Is it true? Maybe. Who were we talking about just two years ago, before Kliman & Co had a few beers and said "fuck the geezers, let's see what the kids are up too?
It's hard to get that punk-rock, DIY feeling when discussing $30 entrees, but there's definitely a deliberate shakeup going on.
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I was flipping through this thread again and it struck me that in the midst of the classic Inside-the-Beltway analysis of the metrics of restaurant rating, we all entirely missed the larger point:

This issue is a declaration that the torch has been passed to a new generation, that the 11 kids on the cover and the 55 who replaced old-timers on the list inside have transformed and revitalized the dining scene in the last five years at a rate significantly surpassing normal evolutionary activity (in an intelligent design-type blink of a too-complex-too-evolve-type human eye, you might say) and are now the cookers who count.

So, massive changing of the guard -- and with it, significant improvement in the dining scene? Or just the new guys trying to prove how cool they are, by razzing Robert Shoffner's picks?

I agree there has been big improvement in the DC dining scene, but I'm less certain there has been a sudden, unprecedented shift. Dining goes through a never-ending evolutionary process everywhere. Generally speaking, I suspect you could go back to any past year and look at a representative list, then compare it to a list from 3-5 years before that, and see much the same thing. Granted the pace of change is accelerating, but that too has been happening all along, and will continue. And it says something to those currently on top--watch out guys, cause there are new things coming at you faster and faster.

That said, I agree there has been a sudden shift at Washingtonian. Kliman was certainly brought in to sweep out the old and bring in fresh air; he is doing a superb job of that, and that goes a long way to explaining the big change in the list in the last two years. But that says more about what's going on at one magazine than it does about the suddenness of change in the local dining scene. In fact, if you go back a few years on local food boards and check out comments about Washingtonian, you'll find much carping about them getting more and more "out of touch." Kliman has brought them up to speed. Suddenly.

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Because, just like when someone posted about it last week, it's still last year's list - the 2008 list is on newsstands but not yet on their website.

The 2008 Readers Choice is already voted on and on the the newsstands? This was posted on their site today. You might want to read it and compare the topics first.

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The 2008 Readers Choice is already voted on and on the the newsstands? This was posted on their site today. You might want to read it and compare the topics first.
I think the recent posts in this thread refer to the staff ranking of the 100 Best Restaurants 2008. The website is doing a slow teaser countdown of the Top 25.

The reader's favs in Washingtonian were pretty much discredited when ZPizza was "voted" best pizza last year.

This is the deal: Z Pizza stuffed the ballot box, as it were. It bought up hundreds upon hundreds upon hundreds of copies of the magazine and had its customers scribble the company's name in the appropriate slot.That's bad enough.

But it gets worse.

You'd think it'd be an honor to be "named" the best pizza in the area by the magazine's readers. But no: Z Pizza has gone one untruthful step further, and now advertises itself as being honored as the best pizza in the area by the magazine.

"Best"?

It doesn't come close. It's not even what I'd call "good."

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The top 10

1 - Citronelle

2 - CityZen

3 - Komi

4 - Restaurant Eve

5 - Minibar

6 - Inn at Little Washington

7 - Palena

8 - Vidalia

9 - Kinkead's

10 - Central Michael Richard

All in all, there were not a lot of suprises. Some of the newcomers to the list were new restaurants (i.e., Central, Brasserie Beck-36, Hook-57, Proof-83, The Source-29, Cafe du Parc-35, etc.) Some of the ones that were dropped, aside from those which closed, appear to be restaurants that made the list because they were good but not fancy, i.e., Joe's Noodle House and Gom Ba Woo. But others of that type stayed, like Bob's Noodle 66 (73) and Bangkok 54 (84).

While it may be important to the restaurants, I'm sure we can all find things to quibble about on the list.

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I thought there were a few surprises in here. Rankings of some the new restaurants were probably the most interesting:

Central (10), Source (14), WestEnd (15), Proof (83?!?).

I haven't tried either level of the Source (ew, I don't even like saying that name, almost like thelistareyouonit?!) in part because about a month ago Todd said not to. I definitely would have guessed Proof would have landed higher and WestEnd lower. Maybe Proof suffered because of its wine-centric nature and relatively limited menu? Whatever, I'm still a fan.

I liked the insider tips and best dishes components of the piece. Nice work, Washingtonian!

ETA: Sorry, looks like I repeated some of the post above which appeared while I was typing.

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Sorry if there's any confusion - the 2008 rankings are not yet online. They will be posted more towards the end of January. For right now, we're doing a daily countdown of the top 25: http://www.washingtonian.com/articles/restaurants/6021.html

Cheers,

Catherine

washingtonian.com

Excellent issue Catherine. I too love the insider tips. This issue is a keeper for reference!

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Excellent issue Catherine. I too love the insider tips. This issue is a keeper for reference!

The most delightful item in the issue, one which elevates it to a classic, one for the ages, is the artful column break at the end of the second column in the inset heralding Cathal and Meshelle as restaurateurs of the year (congratulations by the way, so very well deserved and earned). A masterpiece, simply genius. No way could this have been mere chance.

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The most delightful item in the issue, one which elevates it to a classic, one for the ages, is the artful column break at the end of the second column in the inset heralding Cathal and Meshelle as restaurateurs of the year (congratulations by the way, so very well deserved and earned). A masterpiece, simply genius. No way could this have been mere chance.

This is truly hilarious!

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As the "outgoing" 2007 restauranteur of the year, isn't there a crown, sash, orb or septer for you to pass along to the Armstrongs?

jberry.jpg

Trust me, the crown I have worn this past year is neither one that I wish to pass on to anyone, nor one that the Armstrongs deserve.

Now what Todd "The Presider" Thrasher's got (apparently he is quite aptly named), that's another matter...God bless him for finally getting the recognition he deserves for what those of us in the industry have long suspected and have spoken about in hushed, awed whispers.

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While I like the ratings, I find they useless, are there really any surprises ? What I find more interesting are the readers ratings.

Trouble is, the readers' ratings tend heavily towards the moronic. Professional critics can be biased, snotty and misinformed, but better to trust them than the same mouth-breathers who regularly annoint 5 Guys and L'Auberge Chez Francois two of the top dining destinations in the region.

ETA And I'm relatively certain that Todd and crew -- while taking their work seriously enough to do it seriously and to the best of their abilities -- don't take themselves so seriously that they don't recognize this as consciously provacative format. They want to get a conversation going, and that's good, right?

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To me the readers represent the real people, not the foodies that could have an impact on where people go to eat. As a investor in a few places, I take their comments a bit more serious. Take Bebo for example, worst service and most overrated, if a reader was reading they would see that the critics were not on the same page as the average reader. What do you think the non-foodie would do?

The "real people" go to Cheesecake Factory. That's why you can walk in to Palena early and score a seat at the bar, but there's a two hour wait at Cheesecake Factory.

Reviews in the Post or Washingtonian have a negligible effect on the dining public; reader reviews even less so. Most will forget the printed review within minutes of reading it, and while the article stays on the website, it's far harder to find that one later than the magazine's review (other than the tag for FAVORITES in the search - the OVERRATED tag doesn't show up.) A couple of months after this issue is gone you have to DIG to find the comments they wrote.

Go look at the Post website. For each restaurant in the database, users can leave comments. The Bebo listing is packed with poor comments. But last I heard, at prime mealtimes, you still wait for a table. So clearly the "non-foodie", to answer your question, goes anyway.

BTW, since you've brought it up several times now, care to disclose which places you are an investor in?

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To me the readers represent the real people, not the foodies that could have an impact on where people go to eat. As a investor in a few places, I take their comments a bit more serious.
It's been noted many times on this board that there is frequently no relationship between "what's good" and "what's profitable."

I would also be interested in hearing what places you're affiliated with.

ETA: what Daniel said about Cheesecake Factory.

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To me the readers represent the real people, not the foodies that could have an impact on where people go to eat. As a investor in a few places, I take their comments a bit more serious. Take Bebo for example, worst service and most overrated, if a reader was reading they would see that the critics were not on the same page as the average reader. What do you think the non-foodie would do?

Depends whether you're trying to find out what's popular or what's good -- both equally valid concepts. Trouble with readers' polls is that they tend to conflate and confuse the two concepts.

BTW, are you not saying we're not "real people?" If you prick us, do we not bleed? if you tickle us, do we not laugh? if you poison us, do we not die? and if you serve our beef cold and our salmon overcooked, shall we not revenge, probably on line, in this forum?

Reviews in the Post or Washingtonian have a negligible effect on the dining public; reader reviews even less so.

Surely you're not serious. Ask Landrumm what business was like at Ray's the Steaks for the two years before Sietsema put it on the map -- or ask yourself how yuppies from throughout the metro area found themselves lining up on previously obscure streetcorners in Brightwood and Cleveland Park for pizza or distinctive home cooking?

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Surely you're not serious. Ask Landrumm what business was like at Ray's the Steaks for the two years before Sietsema put it on the map -- or ask yourself how yuppies from throughout the metro area found themselves lining up on previously obscure streetcorners in Brightwood and Cleveland Park for pizza or distinctive home cooking?

I'll clarify (since this is the scenario at hand with Bebo) that a moderately poor review for an otherwise already busy place will have little to no effect on the crowds. Very different scenario than shining a light on a place that wasn't well known before.

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With regards to the "BTW, are you not saying we're not "real people?" " comment. Generally I would say that most of you hold back negative comments on places and do not share experinces honestly at times.

[Off-topic, but I sometimes get PMs talking about "those people" on your website. My response is always the same: "You're one of them." A typical reply to that would be, "Well ... not really," to which I respond, "Yes, you are!" :(

Sort of like cursing at the cars in the traffic jam (which I do, often, generally wishing I had a disintegration ray gun - but then I realize that someone might be pointing one at me!)]

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I'll clarify (since this is the scenario at hand with Bebo) that a moderately poor review for an otherwise already busy place will have little to no effect on the crowds. Very different scenario than shining a light on a place that wasn't well known before.

Fair enough. Though, if one were feeling argumentative and didn't have real work to do one could suggest that it's the two decades of press clippings (beginning with Phyllis Richman's "discovery" of him) that allow Donna to thrive despite current less-than-glowing reports. :( We need someone scientifico-statistically inclined to figure out the half-life of a good review.

With regards to the "BTW, are you not saying we're not "real people?" " comment. Generally I would say that most of you hold back negative comments on places and do not share experinces honestly at times.
I've read plenty of negative comments on here, and written more than one myself. There is a certain "if you don't have anything nice to say" thematic going on which sometimes annoys me; Don's a nice guy while I'm a cynical and vindictive man. But I get around to reading most of the reviews and awards published in this town, and to suggest that this site presents a less accurate view of the Washington dining scene (quality, not profits) strikes me as a bit silly. Or, do you really think that Five Guys Burgers are not only edible, but better than those at Central, Palena or CK? Or that l'Auberge and Central (not to pick on them -- both fine establishments, I'm sure) are better than CityZen, Palena, Eve...(and that l'Auberge has been, without exception, the best in DC for 27 years)?

I mean, reader's choice polls are interesting and fun, and they're not always wrong (Ray's), but they're popularity contests determined by the same people that made Thomas Kinkade rich and Kelly Clarkson famous.

Here's the link to the Washingtonian's latest nod to the great unwashed. I prefer Todd and crew's views.

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Ask Landrumm what business was like at Ray's the Steaks for the two years before Sietsema put it on the map

Actually, Tom reviewed Ray's The Steaks after we were selling out the restaurant seven nights a week, but in a calm, enjoyable manner--the review only introduced the hysteria.

Now the first six months--that was another story. Can you imagine, we had four, FOUR, nights in the first six months with ZERO guests. Over a dozen with fewer that six, and at least a score with fewer than ten.

But that time, as scary as it was, gave Ray's The Steaks the opportunity to develop organically and in harmony with the needs of its neighborhood and community.

Back on topic--a review gives a restaurant an uncontrolled surge in business for two, maybe three, months. The rest is up to the restaurant or to the social/status scene that develops around it.

As to the question of what is "good" versus popular--people go to restaurants that are "good" for them, no more, no less.

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"100 Best" lists are as always subjective. It certainly helps cement the reputation of a good restaurant, or to give a boost to a relatively unknown restaurant, but in a metropolitian area as large as this, (or NY or LA or Chicago, etc.) there are literally hundreds of really good restaurants that are doing well and have never been on the list. We can argue all we want, but the list is the opinion of a specific magazine and critic(s). I doubt that any of the restaurants on the list don't belong there, but we can also agree that there are many that we think are better that did not make the list. If we look at this list as opposed to the Post's, we will see differences, but different strokes for different folks.

This is too large an area for most of us to have eaten an even a majority of the restaurants on the list (hey I'm not likely to schlep over to Virginia to eat, no matter how good the review, unless I'm already there for some other reason, and I'm sure there are folks who feel the same way about MD) and I'm sure that we all have favorites that are in our regular rotation that did not make the list and which we think are just as good or better. I think Il Pizzico is better than many that made the list, and I'd put Urban BBQ ahead of any Pho place when I'm hungry.

So bottom line, this is Todd's (et al) list. You can agree, or disagree, but it is just one magazine's opinion. My bottom line, I liked all the restaurants on the list that I've tried (some better than others) and there are restaurants that I really like that did not make the list that I think are better than some that did.

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With regards to the "BTW, are you not saying we're not "real people?" " comment. Generally I would say that most of you hold back negative comments on places and do not share experinces honestly at times.
I've read plenty of negative comments on here, and written more than one myself. There is a certain "if you don't have anything nice to say" thematic going on which sometimes annoys me; Don's a nice guy while I'm a cynical and vindictive man.
There are several factors that contribute to this, the main being the number of industry folks on the board. It becomes much harder to criticize someone you have met in person or have interacted with online. I suspect that the industry folks know this, and cultivate the readership here, indeed, they would be foolish not to. It then becomes impossible to criticize a place or person that gives comps, or takes special care in serving you, without appearing rude and ungrateful. Please note that I am not criticizing, as I said, they would be foolish not to do this. And once a diner has been cultivated, they can be relied on to be more forgiving of error, and rush to a restaurant's defense if it is criticized by someone who is not a regular. Hence the "you just didn't order correctly" discussions that occur here and other food boards.

To get back on topic, I find the comments on the places interesting, but the 1-100 ranking somewhat ridiculous because it compares restaurants whose cuisine and mission have nothing whatsoever to do with one another. It's not useful to me to read that Central is at #10, and Bankok 54 is ranked at #84, but it is to read that Central is ranked above Cafe du Parc.

Years ago the pull-out section with addresses and phone number was worth the cost of the magazine. Now that I have a laptop and Blackberry..eh, not so much.

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Not to highlight Corduroy's position in the 2009 Washingtonian Top 100, but to ask if anyone shares their author's insight regarding Chef Power's hair and that of former Mid Johnny Unitas?

about_corduroy_left.jpgunitas_johnny020911.jpg

Corduroy ★★★ 1122 Ninth St., NW | 202-589-0699

Cuisine: In an age of look-at-me chefs, Tom Power is as much a throwback as his Johnny Unitas–style hair. He eschews experimentation and showing off in favor of simple, true flavors—from exceptional soups to hand-rolled pastas to unfussy preparations of fish, seafood, and game.

Mood: Removed from its charmless space in a Sheraton hotel to a townhouse, the restaurant now exudes quiet sophistication, with warm lighting and subtle Asian accents. Power dislikes music, thinking it a distraction from the food. To those fed up with the brassy, noisy new restaurants that now dominate downtown, his policy will come as a relief. But sometimes the room is more hushed than peaceful.

Best for: Diners alienated by forced juxtapositions and bewildered by ingredients they've never heard of; anyone seeking a leisurely, elegant meal.

Best dishes: Rouge Vif d'Temps–pumpkin soup, a silken, lightly sweet broth over a small mound of minced bacon; snapper bisque; salad of duck egg and duck-leg confit; roast chicken with shallots and arugula; pan-roasted duck with fig sauce; pepper-edged, seared bigeye tuna with sushi rice; tarte Tatin of local apples; pistachio bread pudding.

Insider tips: The new bar menu offers some of the area's best cooking at a fraction of the cost of the upstairs dining room.

Service: •••

Open Monday and Saturday for dinner, Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner. Very expensive.

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Not to highlight Corduroy's position in the 2009 Washingtonian Top 100, but to ask if anyone shares their author's insight regarding Chef Power's hair and that of former Mid Johnny Unitas?

Not me. Coiffure-wise, I'm certain that Tom Power is really channeling Roy Batty, the desperately cool antagonist from Ridley Scott's Blade Runner.

"Thyme, to Thai"

about_corduroy_left.jpgblade8.jpg

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I always thought that he resembled Rutger Hauer.

PS

Insider tips: The new bar menu offers some of the area's best cooking at a fraction of the cost of the upstairs dining room.

Umm. Unless they switched it around on me since I was last there about a month ago, the bar is upstairs and the dining room is downstairs.

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