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Washingtonian "Best Restaurants" Issue


Sudhir Seth

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Over the past couple of years, I thought that the kitchen suffered from Paul Stearmant's growing pains, but now his talents are really starting to show, and he is putting out food that will bring the food back to the level it was when Wiedmaier was still in the kitchen. They are doing nothing outrageous or inventive, but putting out good honest fine cuisine (go and try the lobster bisque en croute to see what I mean).

A friendly FYI, Paul has been there for more than 10 years. The dinner I had there last month may have been the best one ever. Butter poached lobster, oyster-mussel gratin, dover sole, all superbly prepared.

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One of the more curious changes in the rankings was that of Willow, which was rated #39 in the previous survey and has completely fallen out of the top 100. What's also weird is that in the December 2010 issue's monthly "Needle" column, Willow was noted as being "hot," measuring at nearly 425 degrees. Recent comments on the board have been positive. Something does not seem to add up here. I have not eaten at Willow for a couple of years so can't really add any personal observations. Comments?

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A friendly FYI, Paul has been there for more than 10 years. The dinner I had there last month may have been the best one ever. Butter poached lobster, oyster-mussel gratin, dover sole, all superbly prepared.

I know that he has been there for more than a decade, but most of that time was not as chef de cuisine. I am not sure if it was not being quite ready for the promotion, or that he was trying to do too much, but the food had slipped after his elevation. This is in no way to impugn his talents, it just seems like it has taken a number of years for his brilliance to start showing (on this note; one of the best meals I have ever had was sitting outside of Marcel’s eating dishes that he was testing to go on the menu that I wrote about here)

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On the chef tell all thing- this is a post in a thread, each post isn't really a "review." I don't consider each post a review. Some are, I guess, but really the whole thread is more of a overall discussion on a restaurant. Rocks posts reviews, some people have pretty thorough write ups, but I don't really think we think of them as a review.

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February's magazine (article now online) has the Best of Rockville.

It's a pretty good list - all of the top places from the DR dining guide are there, except all of the Chinese restaurants. In fact, other than Spice Xing, and a chain sushi place, no Asian at all.

Really?

There's also this. Not sure why they'd separate those out from the Best of.

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I only took a quick look at this issue, but La Canela got a mention. I thought this place was closed, does anyone know for sure?

I believe you're thinking of La Flor De La Canela in Gaithersburg. Same owners. They closed that one to focus on their Rockville restaurants (Carbon being the other).

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The Washingtonian rates Palena as only the 17th best restaurant in the area. How many of us think that reflects more badly on the Washingtonian than on Palena?

In all honesty, does anyone pay attention to Washingtonian's dining section?

Apparently, they didn't include Old Angler's Inn, Volt, Elisir, Bibiana, or Range in their top 100. TOP ONE HUNDRED!

That says all that needs to be said, but there are dozens of other cringeworthy entries (and flat-out mistakes) in recent years. Just do yourselves a favor - trust me, and don't bother. Washingtonian used to be the second-most respected dining publication in the DC area - that time is long gone. I have issues with Tom Sietsema, but he's at least a bonafide critic whom I would ask for advice if I were traveling (and have).

It says something that I didn't even buy Washingtonian out of curiosity - I started glancing at it twice in checkout lines, but I got checked out within seconds, so haven't really seen anything, only heard. The industry is apparently laughing at it too. Oh, make no mistake, the ones that are *in there* are creating publicity from it, but even *they* are laughing. Jessica Voelker is also gone from the magazine (something I don't think anyone else in the industry has reported on, despite it having happened awhile back). Having dined with both Ann Limpert and Todd Kliman in the past, I can assure you that they have areas of expertise, and I don't know how that is being prevented from reaching the final product.

The DC Restaurant Writing scene is pretty much at an all-time low, at least during the past ten years.

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In all honesty, does anyone pay attention to Washingtonian's dining section?

Apparently, they didn't include Old Angler's Inn, Volt, Elisir, Bibiana, or Range in their top 100. TOP ONE HUNDRED!

This is from Todd Kliman's chat today in response to someone who commented that none of Voltagio's restaurants (Volt, Range, Family Meal) made the top 100:

Well, you can't be more surprised than we were.

But as I said here last week, there are no set-asides on that list; the restaurants that make it, earn it.

We compile a lot of reports throughout the year "” internal reports, from all of us on the food team, and submitted throughout the year. And those reports "” not what we hear from friends or online, not what we read in publications locally or nationally "” dictate our decisions. The restaurants, in other words, tell us what to do.

In our meetings, we all were very surprised to see where these three restaurants came out when all the data was sorted through. But we trust our process.

A great meal can make a place. And a bad meal can break a place.

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The Washingtonian Magazine released its list of 100 Very Best Restaurants and as usual, there were some shockers.  Most jaw-dropping to me is Rose's Luxury moving out of the #3 spot all the way to #21.  Not even a top 20 restaurant?  I have to think this is partly done for shock value.  I was there last night for the tasting menu and the food was as awesome as always.  I will admit that some of the extra-special service wasn't quite there, but still it was quite competent. But #21 is ridiculous.  It's certainly a superior restaurant to Central and Garrison and some of the others in the top 20.

Plume comes in at #6.  I have to confess that I am unfamiliar with this restaurant- never hear it talked about.  Am I missing something great?

On the bright side, Convivial comes in at #4 with the fried chicken coq au vin noted as the "dish of the year."  I approve!  It's also nice to see newcomers Bad Saint, and Maketto on the list.  Masseria too- although I still haven't been. I also really like Vin 909 Winecafe in Annapolis, but it would never occur to me to list it in the top 20.

Other than the Rose's slap in the face as well as a Red Hen move down to #39, I like the list.  I definitely use it to help inform dining decisions during the year.

I'm curious what others think.

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The Washingtonian Magazine released its list of 100 Very Best Restaurants and as usual, there were some shockers.  Most jaw-dropping to me is Rose's Luxury moving out of the #3 spot all the way to #21.  Not even a top 20 restaurant?  I have to think this is partly done for shock value.  I was there last night for the tasting menu and the food was as awesome as always.  I will admit that some of the extra-special service wasn't quite there, but still it was quite competent. But #21 is ridiculous.  It's certainly a superior restaurant to Central and Garrison and some of the others in the top 20.

Plume comes in at #6.  I have to confess that I am unfamiliar with this restaurant- never hear it talked about.  Am I missing something great?

On the bright side, Convivial comes in at #4 with the fried chicken coq au vin noted as the "dish of the year."  I approve!  It's also nice to see newcomers Bad Saint, and Maketto on the list.  Masseria too- although I still haven't been.

Other than the Rose's slap in the face as well as a Red Hen move down to #39, I like the list.  I definitely use it to help inform dining decisions during the year.

I'm curious what others think.

I don't feel right criticizing Todd right now - he went through hell when he lost his dad, and he's going through hell again.
 

I couldn't be happier for Cedric, whom I consider to be a dear friend (who recently did a favor for another dear friend). I have Convivial as my #2 restaurant opening of 2015 behind Kinship and ahead of Masseria (I was at Garrison last week, and there were chinks in the armor, and The Dabney didn't even come close to living up to its ridiculous advance billing). I completely understand what Cedric did what that fried chicken coq au vin - it's a tribute dish - and if I'm the only person in DC who doesn't love it, then I wear that as a badge of honor, because the sticky reduction sauce clashes with the heavy breading, and if I'm the only one who sees that, then so be it.

 
This list has a long history of absurdity and capriciousness, and it sounds like it's continuing. As boring as it may sound, these restaurants simply don't change that much unless something drastic happens. When Todd is back in fighting mode - and that may not happen for quite awhile - I would very much like to interview him about this Top 100 list, and its history over the years - a live interview; not written. Until then, there are more important things in life.
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I don't feel right criticizing Todd right now - he went through hell when he lost his dad, and he's going through hell again.

 

I couldn't be happier for Cedric, whom I consider to be a dear friend (who recently did a favor for another dear friend). I have Convivial as my #2 restaurant opening of 2015 behind Kinship and ahead of Masseria (I was at Garrison last week, and there were chinks in the armor, and The Dabney didn't even come close to living up to its ridiculous advance billing). I completely understand what Cedric did what that fried chicken coq au vin - it's a tribute dish - and if I'm the only person in DC who doesn't love it, then I wear that as a badge of honor, because the sticky reduction sauce clashes with the heavy breading, and if I'm the only one who sees that, then so be it.

 
This list has a long history of absurdity and capriciousness, and it sounds like it's continuing. As boring as it may sound, these restaurants simply don't change that much unless something drastic happens. When Todd is back in fighting mode - and that may not happen for quite awhile - I would very much like to interview him about this Top 100 list, and its history over the years - a live interview; not written. Until then, there are more important things in life.

I am aware and sensitive to what Todd is going through- trust me.  I am not criticizing him.  This is not his list alone.  Again- I'm just dismayed that the group that put it together feels that Rose's doesn't deserve a top 20 spot.  I do wish Todd's chat was back and active, as it is always interesting to hear more about the process and rationale for some of the decisions.

I too am thrilled for Cedric.  I think Convivial deserves its spot near the top.  The list is subjective- obviously- and it is fun to pick it apart~

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Most jaw-dropping to me is Rose's Luxury moving out of the #3 spot all the way to #21.  Not even a top 20 restaurant?  I have to think this is partly done for shock value.  I was there last night for the tasting menu and the food was as awesome as always.  I will admit that some of the extra-special service wasn't quite there, but still it was quite competent. But #21 is ridiculous.  It's certainly a superior restaurant to Central and Garrison and some of the others in the top 20.

Say hi next time!  Actually, I wasn't there, my wife and a coworker went on a whim (and my suggestion.......thank you, thank you) and they were able to walk right in and get seats at the bar with no wait.  There was only a 20 minute wait for a table at 6:45.

They did the tasting menu too and loved it.  Her meal last night was much better than our "private rooftop dining" experience last summer (2015).  That meal was definitely not a Top 10 or even Top 20 meal, but she felt her meal last night was much better quality, about the same or better in quantity and 70 bucks cheaper than the rooftop thing.

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Do you think Yelp is fun to pick apart? I think you're better than wasting your time on such things, Lori.

You're really comparing Yelp to Washingtonian's entirely reasonable list? Um, OK.

I'm with Lori...I enjoy these kind of lists, and like like analyzing and discussing them.

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Do you think Yelp is fun to pick apart? I think you're better than wasting your time on such things, Lori.

This list is a compilation of opinions from a group of critics, whose opinions I value, although I may not always agree with them.  I can't say the same for Yelp because I never use it.  I utilize lists compiled by Washingtonian and Washington Post critics and writers- as well as some local blogs- to help inform my decisions on where to dine.  I don't agree with the entire Washingtonian list- that was my point in the first place.

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You're really saying this is an entirely reasonable list? Um, OK.

Yes. Obviously, there are things to move up or down, and I can't judge Grill Room having never been, but I certainly don't see anything I'd call unreasonable.

What do you find unreasonable?

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So write your own list.

You're always bemoaning the fact that your site doesn't get the publicity and the respect it deserves...and you're right. This is an incredibly valuable site, and yours is an incredibly valuable opinion, that should be up there with the Post and the Washingtonian.

Criticizing other peoples' lists/opinions isn't going to make that happen.

Writing your own list will.

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Can you please post the list itself?  Hard to discuss what you haven't seen!

I was hoping we could use this board to discuss the list- what we agree with and what we don't. Simply disregarding the list in its entirety doesn't accomplish anything.

Don- I would love to see your list as well- at least a top 10 or 20!

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I can share the top 20.  The rest are in the print version - which I don't have yet- or in the digital version for subscribers.

The top 20:

1. Fiola Mare 
2. Komi 
3. Little Serow
4. Convivial
5. Rasika and Rasika West End
6. Plume
7. Bad Saint
8. The Inn at Little Washington
9. Casa Luca
10. Izakaya Seki
11.The Source
12. Masseria
13. Garrison
14. Vin 909 Winecafe (in Annapolis)
15. Proof
16. Maketto
17. Blue Duck Tavern
18. Bistro Bis
19. Central Michel Richard
20. Marcel's

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I guess I would have to disagree with Washingtonian (and nearly all Washingtonians) about Fiola Mare.  It's expensive and luxurious, sure, but I'd take Maketto, Seki, Thip Khao, or Rose's over it any day of the week.

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Mturek,

Don has written his own list, and it is here.

Yes, but that doesn't rank the best of the best.  I am surprised with Casa Luca, I only went once or twice I can't recall, but it wasn't special in the way I have thought Fiola was special.  I haven't been to Bistro Bis in a long time it is interesting where it places on the list.

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Yes, but that doesn't rank the best of the best.

And it's broken down by neighborhood so to assemble a Top 10 or 20 list would take many clicks and lots of cutting and pasting..........come on Don! Fill in the blanks!

1. [Kinship]

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

19.

20.

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Has the entire list shown up electronically yet?

I tried to get the actual magazine after the online version said it was in stores, but my local Safeway still had the previous version out (but that was right before the storm)

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Has the entire list shown up electronically yet?

I tried to get the actual magazine after the online version said it was in stores, but my local Safeway still had the previous version out (but that was right before the storm)

I haven't checked but they usually don't post the entire list for awhile- they are hoping you'll subscribe. The Minibar drop to #21 and the Rose's drop to #22 both seem harsh to me. I really wish Todd Kliman's online chat would return - if not with him than with one of the other staffers- so we could hear more about the reasoning. The copy for Rose's states that "a once-airtight menu of knockout dishes now yields the occasional dud."  Is there a restaurant in the top 20 that doesn't put out a clunker every now and then?

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I find the list odd, especially for Todd.  He's always been a great advocated of ethnic and downscale, and deeply distrustful -- even disdainful -- of formality.  And suddenly Fiola Mare, a complete bastion of establishment eating is tops and Plume, which has historically been presented as underperforming in the kitchen and being a bit stiff on the floor is #6, (just a head of Bad Saint which is much more Klassic Kliman).  Speaking of establishment bastions, is it me, or did Bistro Bis kind of come out of nowhere?  And how about the return of the Inn at Little Washington?

Interesting that Fiola Mare and Casa Luca make the top 10, but Fiola is absent.

And, just to be cranky, I'd say that Little Serow and Central Michel Richard, both fine, seem vastly overrated to me based on recent experiences and Proof is more than a little tired.

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I find the list odd, especially for Todd.  He's always been a great advocated of ethnic and downscale, and deeply distrustful -- even disdainful -- of formality.  And suddenly Fiola Mare, a complete bastion of establishment eating is tops and Plume, which has historically been presented as underperforming in the kitchen and being a bit stiff on the floor is #6, (just a head of Bad Saint which is much more Klassic Kliman).  Speaking of establishment bastions, is it me, or did Bistro Bis kind of come out of nowhere?  And how about the return of the Inn at Little Washington?

Interesting that Fiola Mare and Casa Luca make the top 10, but Fiola is absent.

This - above - is what puzzles me. I've eaten in the majority of the places in that list and my overwhelming sentiment after eating at Fiola Mara was - 'Why did I just spend that much money for that meal?'  Got off to a bad start when the sommelier tried to steer me to a $500 bottle on an ordinary Wednesday night.  Politely asked about a $70 bottle to steer her back.  She returned to a $450 bottle for her next recommendation. I inquired about another sub $100 bottle.  She came back immediately with a $600 bottle.  Sorry - that's not good service - that's running a racket.

Food was good, but not great.  At the end of the night, I shelled out as much for a meal there as at Le Bernadin.  I've never described anything at the latter as good, not great.  Ok - diatribe over - I'm one post closer to seeing Don's list.

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....

Interesting that Fiola Mare and Casa Luca make the top 10, but Fiola is absent.

My husband and I have eaten many times (about 10/year) at Fiola Mare, and several times at Fiola (we have yet to try Casa Luca, but plan to). Fiola Mare has been much more consistent in terms of qualilty of food, while Fiola's performance in our experience has been quite uneven. Our experience at the two restaurants has been so different that it almost doesn't seem that they have the same owner and the same culinary vision, although the dishes on the menus read as being very similar. The significantly lower noise level at Fiola Mare, and the wonderful view, would clinch the deal for us if the food were the same.

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for what it's worth.  Nice to see recognition for TuG and Seki.  I've only been to 10 of the 25 in recent years (mostly because many of them are out of my price range).  Is Whaley's as good as they say?  Been meaning to try it.  Conspicuous (I'd say absurd) omissions:  Little Serow; 2 Amys; Thip Khao.  As well as Arroz, Kinship, Daikaya Ramen, Hazel, Sushi Ogawa (and Takumi, and Mirai). 

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