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Dupont Circle FreshFarm Market - 20th St. & Massachusetts Avenue NW


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Humbling, isn't it, for a city dweller? Makes one appreciate the seasons, terroir beyond the vineyard...

Fortunato Nicotra was actually quite impressed by what we have at this time of year in this more southern region, compared to the stuff from Upper New York State at Union Square in NYC. Inspired by what he and his employer discovered to make impromptu additions to the menu: risotto with erba stella, mache as garnish, and a wealth of sunchokes for the root-vegetable bagna cauda already in the works, all from one (other) organic farmer. Fell in love with the mushrooms, too, especially my favorite: Royal Trumpets.

As for fresh, glistening creatures to eat, there are oysters and rockfish, too local and tempting to pass up.

My two favorite things were not available: Jumbo lump crabcakes from Chris's and the sensational quiche and breakfast tarts from the guys with the big white truck.

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My two favorite things were not available: Jumbo lump crabcakes from Chris's and the sensational quiche and breakfast tarts from the guys with the big white truck.
Former item must have sold out quickly for all the cool celebrations; something like that happened right before New Year's Eve, too :P .

As for latter, you're referring to Dan of Highfield Dairy [sic in earlier post; this is correct name] who has had one upset after another lately in plans to trek to market. Should be back soon!!!

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It was quite a dazzling celebrity chef scene around the information desk this morning. I arrived early to make sure I could get a parking space, and there were pre-packed boxes stacked up waiting for pickup, marked Peacock, Andrés, Nathan, Bastianich. Alice Waters showed up just at opening time, and was surrounded by well-wishers and people from the press. She chatted with Odessa Piper, Ris Lacoste, and Joan Nathan and Scott Peacock, who showed up in person despite having ordered their produce in advance (there may have been others I didn't recognize--everyone was bundled up). Bruce from Eco-Friendly told me that Alice Waters had been looking for fresh chickens from them, apparently unaware that farmers are unable to raise pasture-fed chickens in this climate. All of Eco-Friendly's chickens currently available for sale are frozen. Not sure what she ultimately decided on as the protein for her dinner, but it won't be anything from Eco-Friendly--interesting given her relationship with Michael Pollan, and his connection with Bev Eggleston. It won't be fresh pork or beef, which Eco-Friendly could have provided.

Ris Lacoste won't be cooking one of the fund-raiser dinners--she has a party of her own to go to, but she told Waitman, Mrs. B, MeMc and me that she is hosting Scott Peacock in her home kitchen for prep, and that she and Odessa Piper will be prepping with him this afternoon. They'd already rendered fresh lard and will be making biscuit dough today. Peacock was seen with a large box of collards at the W.VA. Sunnyside Farm stand.

Melissa McCart has volunteered to be a server at Lydia Bastianich's dinner, which is in a private home, as are most of the other celebrity chef meals. According to our MeMc, there is a party afterward where all of the chefs will gather to hang out. Wouldn't THAT be a cool party to crash?

The party/dinner was last night. (:
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From this week's emailed newsletter from FRESHFARM Markets:

Highfield Dairy has not been at the Dupont Winter Market yet this year because farm owner John Marshall is undergoing treatment for multiple cancers. His business partner, Dan Adams (who you usually see at the Dupont market) is taking care of the farm while John is in the hospital. We hope to see Highfield Dairy back at market in the next week or two. We will let you know more when we do. Please keep John in your thoughts and prayers.
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So, legant, did you go?

(Thanks to the wonderful DR volunteer, though sorry if guilt was the big motivating factor!)

Farmhouse Flowers has lots of tall, striking lilies in addition to beautiful tulips.

Everona made its last appearance until April since now is the time for lambs to be born.

Other animals, too, since a favorite Keswick cheese-maker noted how happily a dog was sniffing her jacket. "Placenta," she explained.

Confession: I dumpster-dived for the first time. Happy discovery in the freezer now, waiting to become stock.

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Confession: I dumpster-dived for the first time. Happy discovery in the freezer now, waiting to become stock.
Update: discovery discarded once reason for tossing learned from its source.

* * *

Yesterday's warm weather arrived simultaneously with three regular market participants who usually do not return until April: Anchor Nursery, the guys selling produce, herbs and flowers, closest to Bonaparte Bakery and the bank entrance; Harmony Creek, soap; and Arbec Orchids.

Just to remind you: the market will return to regular hours the first weekend in April 2009: April 5th.

So: March 15, 22, 29: 10 AM to 1 PM

April 5 - December 27: 9 AM to 1 PM

* * *

For the first time yesterday, Cedarbrook Organic Farm (fermenteverything's source for pork) switched places with Atwater Bakery (Zora's source for toast) on 20th Street. (New arrangement is a work-in-process since the very narrow passageway in front of Blue Ridge Dairy should widen next time around.)

So, if you're looking for either, facing north, you'll find Cedarbrook is now fourth on the left (in the middle). Atwater is at the very top of that same row. This seems to be a happy solution to the long lines of shoppers waiting to pick up bread, scones, muffins and granola.

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Update: discovery discarded once reason for tossing learned from its source.

* * *

Yesterday's warm weather arrived simultaneously with two regular market participants who usually do not return until April.

Just to remind you: the market will return to regular hours the first weekend in April 2009: April 5th.

So: March 15, 22, 29: 10 AM to 1 PM

April 5 - December 27: 9 AM to 1 PM

* * *

For the first time yesterday, Cedarbrook Organic Farm (fermenteverything's source for pork) switched places with Atwater Bakery (Zora's source for toast) on 20th Street. (New arrangement is a work-in-process since the very narrow passageway in front of Blue Ridge Dairy should widen next time around.)

So, if you're looking for either, facing north, you'll find Cedarbrook is now fourth on the left (in the middle). Atwater is at the very top of that same row. This seems to be a happy solution to the long lines of shoppers waiting to pick up bread, scones, muffins and granola.

It was wonderful to get back to Dupont yesterday. Timing was perfect-my favorite vendor just starting carrying her mulit-colored eggs again. I also bought apples per Anna Blume's recommendation, black trumpet mushrooms, parsley, a couple jars of sour cherry preserves (been missing that!) and feta.

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Carla of Top Chef was at market this morning, though I missed her. Great to see other DR folk there, nonetheless. At least two European ambassadors shopping, too.

A young private chef was scouting out what was available at market, trying to decide what to demonstrate next month, so let this be a reminder that chef demos will resume at 11 in a couple of weeks along w the regular four-hour market day.

Morels already, though, this doesn't mean they're back as regular presences quite yet. On the other hand, there was watercress that the young folk at Tree & Leaf plucked from a stream.

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A picture is worth a thousand words and all that, so....here's my visit to last Sunday's Dupont Market:

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At Heinz's Next Step Produce, I bought erba stella, vitamin green, peppery cress and sunchokes. At Keswick, I bought a quart of yogurt, and at Spring Valley, a few apples. Chickens at the market (Creekside) was a different site!

Despite dreary weather and the promise of showers and possibly storms, the market was bustling at the opening bell. Anna Blume counted 400 head at opening, which is heartening to see.

So far, I've been enjoying the yogurt with berries and cherries (saved from last year's markets) and a lavender honey (NJ). I also made a roasted sunchoke soup with thyme and smoked pork.

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Next, I'm going to use the greens. The vitamin green is reportedly like mustard greens, so I'll give the greens a quick saute or braise (or kind of a combo, really) and make a wilted salad with the cress and erba stella-perhaps with a cherry vinaigrette in honor of the blossoms. It's a lot of greens-I starting to feel like a rabbit!

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Insanely crowded at 10 though parking was a breeze. BLToddler flirted with Hillvalley and happily munched on fresh spinach. His true joy was in the apple and cheese samples. He also picked his very own sweet potato at Next Step and carrots from Tree and Leaf. The line at Atwaters was longer than I've ever seen but it moves fast--alas we were too late for the hot cross buns.

A good, quick trip to get into the spring market mood!

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About 20 minutes before I saw you there was a rare sight....no line at Atwaters. A lavendar tea cake, 6 rosemary rolls, and an Italian loaf later it was back.

Spring is popping up-small yellow and pale orange carrots, rainbow chard, ramps, green garlic and herbs, among other things, are back.

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Just scheduled some time on my calendar w/ some friends to visit the Dupont Farmers Market at 10 AM on Sunday, April 26 ...anyone interested in meeting up to drool over some produce? <snip>
Does the Dupont Market get crazy busy or very quiet, as it's Easter Sunday this Sunday? Just curious.
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Does the Dupont Market get crazy busy or very quiet, as it's Easter Sunday this Sunday? Just curious.

Just park ten minutes before it opens, whenever that is this time of year. The real hassle is the parking, not the crowds (which do swell for supernatural occurances, though likely not for supernatural reasons. If you're cooking Easter Dinner, your ass is out there, rain or shine (though better Easter Sunday than any random Sunday in July).

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I keep saying I need to get here. This year I will do it. It's a schlepp though from Laurel. Hmmm.

Bring a cooler, buy your stuff, grab a snack, see the Phillips collection and/or the Textile Museum and/or the Woodrow Wilson house and then drive back. You could be home by 1 and have had a great day already.

Anna B. will kill me for saying this but the trip will be more worthwhile if you wait a few weeks.

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Anna B. will kill me for saying this but the trip will be more worthwhile if you wait a few weeks.
No, I won't. Unless your name is Gregor and you wake up tomorrow morning as a rat. Then, I'd squeal like a girl, but I'd do it.

* * *

Look, pool boy, he's just saying that because he doesn't like ramps (Heather, don't you dare post). I do. And I am waiting to see if the skinny guys in red tee shirts find morels in the woods of West Virginia as they think they might. Perhaps they're out there now, searching as you read. Perfectly happy now because there are always great eggs, mozzarella, little white Japanese turnips (great braised w morels in butter), watercress plucked from the stream and I do like Red Russian kale. Chocolate milk. Stoneyman sheep's milk cheese. Tart, dried apple rings. Zora with her cooler checking out the meat. Lamb chops, pork ribs, veal, sausages...

This past week I picked up gobs of field spinach: the crinkly kind I recall from way back when--sort of the hairy chest version of the vegetable vs. the Olympian-swimmer smooth-pec leaf one finds in sealed bags from organic agribusinesses out in California that cry out for bottled dressing in a salad next to your Lean Cuisine. Small, yes, since they're young, but crinkly nonetheless, made for hot, slick cast iron skillets, olive oil and garlic and an anchovy fillet.

But if you wait, man, there will be asparagus like nothing bundled in rubber bands that read "Mexico" or "Peru", some time early in May, I bet.

Rhubarb!

Then, while the asparaguys are still hanging around, getting fat, baam! Strawberry city.

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This past week I picked up gobs of field spinach: the crinkly kind I recall from way back when--sort of the hairy chest version of the vegetable vs. the Olympian-swimmer smooth-pec leaf one finds in sealed bags from organic agribusinesses out in California that cry out for bottled dressing in a salad next to your Lean Cuisine. Small, yes, since they're young, but crinkly nonetheless, made for hot, slick cast iron skillets, olive oil and garlic and an anchovy fillet.
It made great soup, too.
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Favas not until the end of May, but asparagus next week!

Among new things today: sorrel (Gardner's Gourmet). Lovely green garlic at Tree & Leaf. Leeks at Next-Step.

Ramps again at Spring Valley, though George says the cold weather has postponed morel foraging in West Virginia.

And what an amazing smile above the radishes of Farm at Sunnyside!

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Kale rabi (a new combination for them) at Farm at Sunnyside

The kale rabe was delicious sauteed in garlic oil. It had a mild kale flavor and an unexpected sweetness. I woke up today craving it and just finished the little bit that was leftover.

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Micro basil that Inn at Little Washington didn't want!
So, this is like a different variety or just young sprouts picked for a delivery that fell through?

* * *

All the recent references to greens for breakfast inspire! Sometimes I do grow weary of sweet things at breakfast and don't necessarily want to go the way of eggs.

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The kale rabe was delicious sauteed in garlic oil. It had a mild kale flavor and an unexpected sweetness. I woke up today craving it and just finished the little bit that was leftover.
Casey*, The Farm at Sunnyside's new intern, gets all the credit for the combo. The sweetness comes from the stems.

*Casey is one of the guys behind the White House Organic Farm Project.

So, this is like a different variety or just young sprouts picked for a delivery that fell through?

* * *

All the recent references to greens for breakfast inspire! Sometimes I do grow weary of sweet things at breakfast and don't necessarily want to go the way of eggs.

Don't ask me, I'm just the friend of the farmer who scooped up a bag. I do know they were grown/picked just for the Inn who didn't want them.
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so much depends

upon

a red farm

stand

glazed with rain

water

beside the white

chickens.

You ain't no spring chicken but you kin et 'em. Now that they're

back

and thigh and wing

in the icebox

so cold

and when the ground is mud-

luscious, come

running

to welcome the return of New Morning Farm

It's

spring

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No more rockfish again until the fall...

But, live eels were in buckets at Buster's in front of the cases of crabs (in various states of preparation, moribund; living softshells, too), clams and croakers.

P.S. Strawberries hit the big city at Penn Quarter on Thursday and today at Dupont Circle, too.

Glorious peonies.

Light a candle, pray or whatever it is that you do to keep frost at bay. Could destroy much food around here if temperatures plunge that much in VA, MD and southern PA tonight.

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Not going to the Spring/Summer picnic on Sunday? :D

Well, if you can't, you might still have time to squeeze in some grocery shopping and a little fun:

To launch Jaleo's 7th annual Paella Festival, at 11:00 am on June 7: Giant Paella.

The vegetable paella will be prepared traditionally: outdoors in a copper pan, eight-feet wide. Demonstration and tasting features special guest, Quim Marques, chef and owner of El Suquet de l’Almirall in Barcelona.

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Lots new or newish at the market today, a sign of summer just around the corner.

Squash blossoms, patty pan, yellow zucchini, bicolor, Middle Eastern and Mexican types of summer squash. Tomatillos and many colors of cherry tomatoes. Couldn't believe someone else's report of blueberries elsewhere, but lo and behold.

New Morning doesn't think it's ever had green beans mid-June. Purslane (okay, weeds, but more uppity than ramps). Fava beans at Next-Step Produce as there were at Mountain View last week at other local markets.

A couple of places still were selling asparagus, but I am pretty sure it was only a couple. Strawberries will return at least more week if they're driven from PA. The rest? Probably gone for the year.

Quaker Valley sold all its raspberries on Saturday, but will bring them to Dupont next week. That pretty green garlic of a month ago or so is starting to return as dried heads next to the garlic scapes, though big globes of onions still come attached to tubular green.

Brought home rhubarb, fennel, Tuscan kale to ceviche and shell peas to shoot. Purple head of cauliflower (quel surprise). Euoropean blend water-grown lettuces and such in a bag. Royal trumpet mushrooms. Ground Angus beef from Eric, the nice, rabidly organic guy of Country Pleasures and a couple Eco-Friendly chicken legs. Two long, bumpy, curling cucumbers. Magic basil. Peruvian blue potatoes.

Alice Waters carted away lots, too.

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A little rain at the early start of the market opening certainly didn't deter anyone from attending the market this morning. Gebaby enjoyed the bluegrass band Extension Agents, picked up a new word (Banjo!) from them, and said hi to the lovely Anna Blume. He also gave hearty fives to Chef Will Artley of Evening Star Cafe, who was the demo/assembly chef there today.*

No signs of any asparagus. So short.

Spring Valley had a 3 pints for $10 of their Strawberries (last week, I believe) and some great tart cherries (gebaby had a bunch of samples!), as well as purple cauliflower. Clear Springs Creamery had a flavorful 8oz Strawberry yogurt for $2.50 (.50 more than their other plain, honey, or vanilla flavors), which was chugged down as fast as possible. Blueberries were also out at Black Orchard and an organic vendor.

The seafood place had great-looking soft-shell crabs, but forgot the price (thought it was reasonable). Scored some fava beans from New Orchard (I think?) and string beans from another vendor that I am excited about using. Great morning, despite a small scrape.

*PS. Psst - Check out Chef's new tats and b.card!

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Yesterday was wonderful at market. The crowd was big, and the produce was so abundant! Chef Will Artley was Chef at Market (carpacio, blue cheese, strawberry vinaigrette, greens):

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Flowers in every color!

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Cherries as far as the lens can see!

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Go soon before you miss this!

3649864425_d4c25f380e.jpg

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In my next life, if I have to regress, please let me come back as a fruit bat.

There were already Queen Anne cherries in the fridge from Thursday, and today I brought home a flat just so the following would arrive safely:

  • Apricots (Black Rock)
  • Black & red raspberries (Quaker Valley)
  • Nectarines (Quaker Valley)
  • Blueberries (Twin Springs)
  • Sour cherries (Twin Springs)

Also got a new kind of pale zucchini w Italian name from Tree & Leaf, zucchini blossoms, oak leaf lettuce, cucumbers, basil, Quark, a pint of milk I forgot to bring home last week (still good), the thin, deep green, tiny string beans that I adore, fennel, spicy Italian sausage, chives, parsley & yellow grape tomatoes.

Usually I boycott greenhouse tomatoes on principle, but I picked up seconds from Toigo since I didn't have canned ones at home and I love the beans stewed as if they were fagolini: with garlic, basil and olive oil. Perfectly lovely without the tomatoes, but the urge was there.

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Not that you could tell from the weather outside today but summer has arrived at market...

Blueberries!!!!! (from Tree and Leaf-they lasted about 10 minutes)

Tiny squash and blossoms, basil, eggs, chard from Farm at Sunnyside

The first sungolds (cherry tomatoes) from New Morning

Tomatillos, red and black raspberries, blackberries, gooseberries, tomatoes and peaches spotted throughout the market.

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My sentiments, exactly.

What meant summer most to me were the Black Prince field tomatoes at Tree & Leaf.

After snatching a box, I immediately went for a huge ball of mozzarella and a bunch of purple & green basil.

Lunch was my first insalata caprese and a thick slab of slightly toasted Pugliese to soak up the milky, herb-scented tomato water and bright green olive oil. Two ears of bi-color corn from Spring Valley, the only kids with corn on the block this week. White peach for dessert.

Other new arrivals:

*okra (Sunnyside)

*black currants (Country Pleasures)

Owen Thomson, the tall, tattooed sweetie of Bourbon, ran to grab some after noting how short the season for white peaches is (so gather while ye may)

* wax beans (Anchor Nursery)

* tiny Methany plums, ripe, bright red flesh (Twin Springs)

New Morning is still picking rhubarb, so the chance to mix spring with summer remains.

Blackberries next week!!! (Country Pleasures)

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On a day like today, checking out all the goods at the market makes one culinarily... erect...

"Would anyone like a piece of PEACH!?!"

YES... GGGGGGGGGGOD YES!

Everything looked so ripe and fresh. I desired it all-- globes, mounds, blossoms...

Eat your fruit and veggies!

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I was sort of stunned by how much I bought, considering we are leaving mid-week to visit the in-laws. I suppose I can bring along stuff for the car ride, and they already think I'm a bit nuts about the organic and local food anyway so bringing my own bounty of fruit wouldn't be totally out of the realm of possibility.

We stocked up on drinkable yogurt at Clear Springs--though my chocolate milk was done in minutes.

Tomatoes from Tree and Leaf. And yellow carrots! And squash.

More tomatoes at Farm at Sunnyside.

The biggest, purplest cauliflower I've ever seen in my life from the other Sunnyside.

Emily at Black Rock twisted my arm into buying the Lodi apples to make applesauce for BLToddler. And she offered him apple samples so I had to buy the other apple she had in stock. And then her daughter (?) offered up a white nectarine sample and now I have a box of white nectarines too. (And I don't usually like the white peaches or white nectarines...)

Two different kinds of bacon--one from Smith Meadow and one from Cedarbrook. Tried the Cedarbrook with BLT's for lunch--my house still smells like bacon.

Corn, corn and more corn at Toigo.

Blueberries at Country Pleasures.

Tried the wineberries at Gardner's Gourmet but they were a miss with the little guy.

Oh, and bread at Atwater for more BLT's.

(And that was on top of a full fridge from Penn Quarter on Thursday...)

I'll be up all night eating fruits and veggies!

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From this week's Freshfarm email

DUPONT CIRCLE

Sundays, 9:00 am - 1:00 pm, 20th St, NW

New Farmer at Market: This Sunday, August 2, Moutoux Orchard is at our Dupont market with locally grown and freshly milled flours grown in Purcellville, VA. Robb Moutoux is growing wheat, spelt, rye and oats on his family's farm. The organically grown flours are being harvested now and freshly ground at the farm. Find Moutoux Orchard flours along with directions for using them for baking; the farm stand will be next to Cedarbrook Farm on 20th Street at the Dupont Circle FRESHFARM Market.

I've known this was coming for a few months now and cannot wait to hear (and hopefully taste) what you bakers come up with using Robb's products. Talk to him about his beer too, I'm not a connoisseur but he makes a damn good brew.
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From this week's Freshfarm email

I've known this was coming for a few months now and cannot wait to hear (and hopefully taste) what you bakers come up with using Robb's products. Talk to him about his beer too, I'm not a connoisseur but he makes a damn good brew.

Any clue on the pricing?

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