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A Chat with Rachael Harriman


DonRocks

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For your other question, I have a few guilty pleasures. There is a bbq place in Rochester called Dinosaur Bar-B-Que. The first one opened in Syracuse, and most recently NYC. The pulled pork sandwiches are amazing. They smoke the pork and ribs right in front of the restaurant. I have even brought a sandwich back for Eric, with his mouth full he nodded with approval. I don’t get to eat out to much, and when I have the opportunity I try to go to a place that I haven’t been to before. Though, my sweet tooth weakness is a warm brownie sundae with hot fudge and vanilla ice cream. Delish!! (That will be my only Rachael Ray reference)
Mmm... it was the first place where I'd been somewhere that they injected flavor into the meat AND I love all the groups of motorcyclists who stop by and park in front.
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Many restaurants change their menu with varying frequencies and CityZen is no different. Can you give us some insight into the dish creation process? Is it a solo effort by Chef Ziebold or a group exercise?

And something less serious, why has the mushroom fritter had such a long run as an amuse?

Thanks for taking time to do this.

Hi mdt,

At CityZen we try to change the menu once a month, give or take. The process all depends on how big the lightning bolt is for either Eric, I, or any of the other cooks. There are times that Eric comes up stairs to the kitchen and says “Ok, I just finished the best tasting menu ever”, or at times he says “we need a bass dish, rabbit and lamb, any ideas??” It’s one of the great traits of the restaurant. I really think that collaboration is what makes a great restaurant great. Being able to feed off of another’s ideas shows just how much creativity one has. It’s also good for the cooks. If they have a really good idea, that may need a bit of tweaking and it ends up on the menu, they end up cooking that dish for the guests with such pride.

And now for the fritter question.

First we need to understand what the mushroom fritter means to the restaurant and the reason that everyone gets one. The mushroom fritter is indicative of what we do from a technique standpoint. Here you have a small, bite sized dish, that really only has 5 ingredients used in all three recipes. A very simple dish with such an intense result. Slicing thinly the mushrooms and drying for powder, making a sauce so silky smooth that in the end the fritter is really just a vehicle to be able to eat the sauce. It means welcome and it shows you what you are in store for. Dishes that satisfy you with flavor and refinement.

You read about CityZen, the restaurant that changes all the time, but never the fritter. I can’t tell you how many people come for dinner, and ask for another round of the fritters. If this happens we thank them by giving a basket with a pool of the sauce on the side to dip them in. We even have regulars that request no mushrooms with their meal, but insist on the fritter.

However there are the times that guests, like Don Rockwell, just don’t like the fritter, and that’s ok. (Don doesn’t really like anything at CityZen anyway) We are happy to give another canapé. The guests that do come and don’t turn it away, understand that it’s like being welcomed by an old friend at the start of a new journey.

I'm just kidding, we love Don :P

Rachael

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However there are the times that guests, like Don Rockwell, just don’t like the fritter, and that’s ok.

The guests that do come and don’t turn it away, understand that it’s like being welcomed by an old friend at the start of a new journey.

The fritter is special to me. When I was a child, every Thanksgiving my parents would pack us kids in the car, and we'd drive up to Brunswick to my grandmother's house for dinner. She'd answer the door, in her Sunday best, greeting us one-by-one as we came into the house. I always dreaded this moment, because when my turn came, I knew I was going to have to KISS my grandmother, and at the same time get a whiff of mothballs from her dress which I can remember to this very day. Yet, as I'm older, I look back with tenderness at those doorstep greetings - I don't remember anything at all about the dinners we had, but I'll always remember being welcomed by dear, old grandma.

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I knew I was going to have to KISS my grandmother, and at the same time get a whiff of mothballs from her dress which I can remember to this very day. Yet, as I'm older, I look back with tenderness at those doorstep greetings - I don't remember anything at all about the dinners we had, but I'll always remember being welcomed by dear, old grandma.

As madeleines were to Proust...?

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Rachel, I'm wondering what your favorite dishes are among all of those that you've cooked/tried since you arrived at the restaurant.

That is, how would your greatest-hits tasting menu unfold?

Also, what would you drink with it?

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Rachael, thank you for all your interesting responses. I'm reading Eric Ripert's 'On the Line' & between both of you, I'm getting a fascinating look at behind the scenes at top restaurants. As for Top Chef, I also thought the paella was the best choice for the one pot dish & your tortellini sounds worlds better than Eugene's 5 golden rings-poisson cru w/ tiny pineapple rings. I think Jeff (who had 11 lords a-leaping) DID think of frogs' legs, but couldn't get them (or a sufficient quantity) at Whole Foods. This was an extremely difficult challenge, & I think they were all criticized for playing it too safe.

It sounds like you get a great deal of pleasure from working in a demanding position at a premier establishment, I think being a chef must be a bit like being a pro athlete. Again, thank you for sharing with us your thoughts & experiences...Thistle

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Thanks for all your insight, Rachael. I'm surprised nobody has asked this question yet (at least, I don't think it's been asked yet): when you think about the restaurant that you'll hopefully call your own someday, what do you envision? We're all a product of our own experiences, so what pieces of the restaurants that you've worked at do you hope to incorporate into your restaurant? Not just menu ideas, but philosophy, service approach, etc. Thanks, and happy holidays.

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Rachael,

I'm flying solo tonight. Where should I go and what should I have for dinner tonight?

But seriously, what chefs in DC do you particularly admire and why?

JPW,

I am sorry I didn't get to answer your question the night you were "flying solo", but if you find that to happen again I have a suggestion. If you can't make it to the bar at CityZen, then I would suggest the bar at Bourbon Steak. The restaurant just opened in the Four Seasons Georgetown. I was at the bar last night with a friend and had a great time. The area was bubbling with people, even on a Sunday. The food was great and they have very interesting wine and cocktails lists.

I was very lucky, when I first came to DC Eric introduced me to everyone he came across. I have been able to get to know DC's greatest chefs. I have to say I admire them all, especially Jeff Buben. To be able to have a restaurant (or 2) for as long as Jeff or Michel Richard for example, in a city where new places are opening all the time, is definitely something to look up to.

Rachael

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Hi Rachael,

Thanks for answering my previous question.

In the past year, I visited both San Francisco and London and was struck by the food markets in both of those world class cities. It was a pleasure to cook with such fine and fresh ingredients.

As a chef, what do you think is missing from DC that could elevate it to the next level?

Hi Lion,

When I was living in California I was very spoiled from the amount of amazing produce that was available, and how easy it was to obtain. It took awhile for me to get used to the crazy weather patterns here that would wash out a field of crops and leave us with little to choose from.

The markets here get better every year, which is great. It would be neat if some of the smaller markets moved away from so much produce and maybe a local fish or butcher shop would join in. I know at the Dupont market you can get a lot of cheeses and meats as well, but some of the smaller markets could add something like that to strike a bit more interest. I think everyone just thinks of markets as having flowers and produce. That’s one of the great things about the San Francisco market, for example, they offer a lot more.

Rachael

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Hi Lion,

When I was living in California I was very spoiled from the amount of amazing produce that was available, and how easy it was to obtain. It took awhile for me to get used to the crazy weather patterns here that would wash out a field of crops and leave us with little to choose from.

The markets here get better every year, which is great. It would be neat if some of the smaller markets moved away from so much produce and maybe a local fish or butcher shop would join in. I know at the Dupont market you can get a lot of cheeses and meats as well, but some of the smaller markets could add something like that to strike a bit more interest. I think everyone just thinks of markets as having flowers and produce. That’s one of the great things about the San Francisco market, for example, they offer a lot more.

Rachael

Yes I would like high quality meats as well in some of the smaller markets! And it would even be nice if we could get raw milk from reputable farms.

On my trip to Borough Market in South London, was particularly fond of the Spanish meats from Brindisa. They even sold these great sandwiches- the line was around the block! Had to buy one for then and one for later.

Since we're on the middle of the East Coast we have a hugh latitude of food that can be driven to us within a day. I think it's a shame we don't have a major culinary landmark in DC to facilitate this kind of commerce. Hopefully some place like Eastern Market when it gets renovated will be able to support the community better in this regard.

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It was wonderful to see all the questions for Rachael. This chat could easily be extended for awhile, but with the holiday approaching, tomorrow seems like a perfect time to wind it down - if you have any more questions or comments, now's your chance!

Rachael, I also want to say what a fascinating guest you've been. As many times as I've seen you in the past, I never felt like I "knew" you until now. Your answers have been full of content, and very well-written. Even though we have one more day, I'll chime in early and say THANK YOU to one of most impressive guests ever. I very much look forward to tracking your promising career over the upcoming years - the sky's the limit for you. Thank you very much, and Cheers! Rocks.

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Rachel, I'm wondering what your favorite dishes are among all of those that you've cooked/tried since you arrived at the restaurant.

That is, how would your greatest-hits tasting menu unfold?

Also, what would you drink with it?

Jdl,

So, this would be my “greatest hits” tasting menu. Keep in mind this menu consists of some of my favorite dishes, as a menu it’s a bit heavy, but I don’t think anyone would complain. So here it goes:

Bluefin Toro

Butter Pickle Ceviche and Yuengling Popover

Horton Petite Manseng

Foie Confit

Plum Financier and Sarawak Pepper Gastrique

Riesling

Butter poached Maine Lobster

Summer Truffle and Sweet Corn Chowder

Arrowwood Viognier

Wagyu

Ginko nuts, Baby Carrots, Ciopplini Onions,

And Crispy Shiitakes

Volnay

Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Souffle

Milk ice cream

1928 Maury

Rachael

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Jdl,

So, this would be my “greatest hits” tasting menu. Keep in mind this menu consists of some of my favorite dishes, as a menu it’s a bit heavy, but I don’t think anyone would complain. So here it goes:

Bluefin Toro

Butter Pickle Ceviche and Yuengling Popover

Horton Petite Manseng

Foie Confit

Plum Financier and Sarawak Pepper Gastrique

Riesling

Butter poached Maine Lobster

Summer Truffle and Sweet Corn Chowder

Arrowwood Viognier

Wagyu

Ginko nuts, Baby Carrots, Ciopplini Onions,

And Crispy Shiitakes

Volnay

Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Souffle

Milk ice cream

1928 Maury

Rachael

I'm in. Where do we sign up?

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Thanks for all your insight, Rachael. I'm surprised nobody has asked this question yet (at least, I don't think it's been asked yet): when you think about the restaurant that you'll hopefully call your own someday, what do you envision? We're all a product of our own experiences, so what pieces of the restaurants that you've worked at do you hope to incorporate into your restaurant? Not just menu ideas, but philosophy, service approach, etc. Thanks, and happy holidays.

Hungry prof,

This is actually a very good question, and one I ask myself all the time, and unfortunately I don’t have the best answer. There are times I go out to eat and see something that I really like, the furniture, china, or even a concept that I think I might be able to adapt for my own. I have so many different ideas; none of them really mesh well. Sometimes I want to have something like CityZen; other times I think something more casual is the way to go. However I am sure about certain things like the cleanliness, and production. I know I would want the service to be attentive, but not overbearing. I will hope to keep the front of the house excited to serve the food, and the back of the house proud to make it. I just don’t have 100% of an idea yet. However, I do know that where I have worked in my past is going to have a major influence on my future, where ever it may go.

Rachael

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