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CityZen, at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel - 2008 James Beard Award Winner Eric Ziebold - Closed Dec 7, 2014


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Sweeny Todd at CityZen? Meat pies on the menu these days? Eric, did you hire George Hearn or Patty Lupone lately?

You did, of course, notice that the writer of this piece, Sarah Kaufman, is the long-time Dance critic of the WaPo?

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You did, of course, notice that the writer of this piece, Sarah Kaufman, is the long-time Dance critic of the WaPo?

Yes, and it's the first in an occasional series of articles on graceful movements in the workplace. At first, I thought, what a fluff piece. As I read on, I really enjoyed it. Really reinforced my respect for Eric Ziebold.

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Had a late dinner at Cityzen on Saturday night. The meal fully lived up to our expectations and the hype. The food was delightful- only real miss for me was the blackberry fruit pate served at the end of the meal that had too much thyme infused into it. Really just a minor quibble. I want to especially thank our very patient waitress. Birthday dinners in my family aren't known for being dull. My mother had a bit to drink and in a moment of exhuberant gesticulation threw a glass of red wine onto my husband's face and all over the floor. If the waitress had never seen this happen before she didn't show it. It was cleaned up and mother's glass refilled with a good natured laugh. I can't imagine what the couple at the table next to us who witnessed the scene must have thought.

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J and I celebrated our anniversary here tonight. So glad I chose to dine here, though we have been here before and there are many new places we have yet to try. BECAUSE ERIC ZIEBOLD IS A GENIUS AND A CULINARY MAGICIAN. A couple of the dishes we were served, it was good that we were sitting down because if I had tasted them standing up I would have gone weak in the knees and collapsed in a puddle of pleasure on the floor. The first was corn "marrow" on a bed of corn chowder, which was a panko-crusted round that when bitten into was the silkiest essence of fresh sweet corn imaginable that caressed the tongue. The corn chowder was a creamy, chunky, perfectly seasoned yellow lake of satisfaction. We found out that this is a dish that chef Eric has developed for an upcoming trip to Japan, where he and Frank Ruta (and another chef from Boston whose name I can't recall) will perform as "Team America" in an Iron chef-style throwdown against a "Team Japan"--and an informant hinted strongly that corn would be one of the "secret ingredients."

The other dish that had our eyes rolling in the back of our heads was Meyer lemon-cured pork jowl with sea trout roe, which was just a perfect and utterly unexpected combination of flavors and textures, set on a bed of the silkiest potato puree. Every other dish we ate was superb, from the chilled, grilled asparagus salad with grilled yellow oyster mushrooms, butter poached lobster, mushroom torchon on brioche with beet coulis and fried pickled ramps, to fabulous sweetbreads on sorrel puree. J's entree of herb and mushroom crusted leg of rose veal had a mystifying starchy green vegetable accompaniment that I found out was my first time eating fava shoots. Grapefruit sorbet was an explosion of refreshing taste. I'd like to know who the new pastry chef is, because the desserts were stellar: a chocolate "brownie" with coffee ice cream and caramel sauce, and almond blueberry cake with apricot sorbet and lavender-honey ice cream. Oh yes.

The service was impeccable. Andy recommended a wonderful gruner veltliner in our price range that accompanied all of our various dishes with understated complexity. Really delicious wine.

Eric is off to Japan tomorrow for his trip. Not sure who will run the kitchen in his absence. But CityZen is a great place to celebrate an occasion for those who appreciate the artistry and craft of a truly great chef.

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Just want to thank Chef Ziebold and his team for a spectacular dinner last Wednesday night. It was our final meal together as an unmarried couple and we treated ourselves to the tasting menu. The congratulatory card signed by the staff was a particularly nice touch. Seated in view of the kitchen, the precision and attention to detail we observed among every single staff member was impressive. The food was even more impressive. A most wonderful way to celebrate our marriage.

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Congratulations are in order all around.

To Jarad Slipp, who is leaving restaurant life and going to work at RdV Vineyards.

To Michael Chesser, the amiable and customer-oriented Captain who is now going to be the new restaurant GM.

To Eric and Celia, who will be having their first child within the next couple of weeks (I saw them yesterday, and little petite Celia has *the* largest baby bump in world history - "Ask for the epidural early on," I advised her). :)

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There were a couple of complaints on Tom Sietsema's chat about CityZen today.

Eric won't make excuses, so I'll do it for him (and he'll probably ask me to remove this, but I won't).

Nine days ago, the Ziebolds had a baby, and Eric is taking two weeks off of work, so the restaurant has been without its Chef for 1 1/2 weeks.

On December 1st, Michael Chesser took over from Jarad Slipp as GM.

So the completely coincidental confluence of these two events has resulted in a once-in-a-lifetime at-risk position for the restaurant.

I assure everyone here that Michael is perfectly capable to be GM, but he surely needs some guidance during his first week - likewise, this is the longest that CityZen has *ever* gone without Eric Ziebold in the kitchen, and yes, one person can make a difference.

No, that doesn't give people their money back if they had a disappointing meal, and it may not even be an acceptable excuse. But it *is* a valid reason, and I guarantee that as of next week, things will be corrected in short order.

I went over to visit Eric and Celia last night, and little Adele Lou is the most precious girl I've ever seen.

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Last night I had a lovely birthday dinner at CityZen.  Solo.    I had a perfectly lovely celebration with Mr. BLB and BL-1st grader the night before, but you can't underestimate the power of solo dining to an extreme introvert with my screen name who has yet to finish a book this year.

I find the service a wee bit too hovering but that is just me. On the other hand, they clearly listen.  So when I asked for no ice in my water, there was never any ice in my water even as it was refilled by multiple staff members during the evening.

I did the four course menu--foie gras, scallops, sweetbreads and the souffle.  I was deeply impressed by the first three courses.  My only nitpick is the dessert course.  My server insisted I had to pick when I ordered, which always irritates me because I don't know how hungry I will be by then, or what taste notes will still be lingering.  So I picked the souffle and it was over the top sweet to me. It hurt my teeth sweet.  Had I ordered at the end of the first 3 courses (and yes, I know the souffle takes time and that is why they wanted to know so far and in advance.) I probably would have done a cheese plate and skipped dessert.  Or asked more questions about something that was smaller or portable.

This was the second time I celebrated my birthday dinner here and I hope to do it again in a few years after I've saved more pennies.

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Since I have no critical credibility when it comes to CityZen*, in honor of a terrific dinner at the bar Friday night  I'll throw out an observation by a good friend, uttered over another dinner with the CZ crew:

"People often talk about the flavor 'notes' they taste in their food.  When I eat here, I taste whole chords."

* But trust me, the bollito is pretty extraordinary.  Think in terms of a pork consumee, one that I would put ahead of the excellent consumee at Palena if only for being properly clarified, paired by Andy with the perfect Riesling.

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Ages ago I posted a plea for recommendations for an intimate and special wedding reception dinner, then promptly got a job that has kept me off these boards far, far too long and I was never able to follow up. Two months ago my beau and our families enjoyed a magical dinner in Cityzen's wine library. I'd love to expound on the specifics of the dishes, but when you've just married your beau and you're plied with wonderful wine and plate after plate of sensuous food while watching an alert staff treat your vastly-deserving parents like royalty, what more is there to say besides: perfect. It was a perfect night. Thank you Cityzen.

Maybe now that work is becoming more manageable I can finally return my attention to this great forum and actually post something about our honeymoon in Singapore and the Maldives?

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Isn't that the block Ruppert's was on? I thought all those buildings were being demolished.

It's two doors down from Ruppert toward K Street. Apparently, the buildings from at least there to the corner are staying intact, as are the facades of the rest. There's a picture of the plans here.

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Interesting. We were just back at Cityzen for the first time in a long time a few weeks ago and were very impressed and satisfied.

We've kind of outgrown the tasting menu concept. Don't get me wrong, I love a good tasting menu - you sometimes get blown away, but all too often you get kind of let down. I'd rather be able to pick and choose my own 4 to 7 courses and enjoy my meal that way. This is what we did about a month ago at CityZen. We went once about 7 years ago, and really loved it, but - it was too expensive, and honestly I think it was not up to the same level as Palena. At that time, we did the tasting menu. This trip was all about not doing it that way and seeing if we've been missing something these past seven years or not.

Sorry, this time we just enjoyed the experience and opted to not take photos. The space is still beautiful. This time I opted for on-street parking two blocks away instead of going the valet route - not sure if the restaurant comps on that detail or not, but parking on street was free so I was happy, plus it allowed for a stroll after dinner to walk off some of the evening's indulgence.

This time we were seated around the corner near the kitchen surrounded by the glass wine storage units. It holds about 4 or 5 tables and this was fine with me. We got to watch the kitchen activity which is always fun. Had a really good waitperson and she took really good care of us. The wine person actually decanted the splurgeworthy (hey it was a birthday, and I did not want to pay $50 corkage, assuming they still allow it) Dal Forno that we had.

The food. Well, yeah, we've been missing out these past 7 years. Granted, at pretty darn high prices, Cityzen does not make for a regular rotation place to dine. And yes, we opted for a few dishes that were requiring of supplement, but this was a great meal. I am looking forward to what he does when he leaves to open his new restaurant. All of the courses were really, really good, but I think the desserts were a rung below the savory courses. I was in heaven with the sardines. The lobster cassoulet was spectacular and my wife's falafel was unexpectedly good. Her medai was...so good. The mains were also quite good, but not as truly memorable. NOTE - if you ever indulge in going here, DO SPLURGE for the cheese course. DO IT! They roll the cart out to you and present you with about twenty or so cheeses ranging from cow, sheep, goat or combination cheeses from mild, to stinky to onslaught worthy blues that you get to pick from their descriptions (how they remember all 20 is beyond me). The cheeses and the accompaniments are not to be missed in my opinion.

We'll be back - either back here, or at his new restaurant. I'm just hoping for a more moderately priced menu choice (and yes, I now know about the bar menu, which seems well priced and affordable enough).

The Menu Line-Up

GREEN CHICK PEA FALAFEL

with Snow Peas and Turmeric Aïoli

SAUTÉED FILET OF MEDITERANEAN SARDINES

Fried Green Tomato, Minced Summer Beans, Oregano and Smoked Tomato Consomme

CRISPY SKIN FILET OF JAPANESE MEDAI

Sautéed Silken Tofu and Rhubarb Gazpacho

POACHED MAINE LOBSTER CASSOULET

Azuki Beans, Oyster Mushrooms, Carrots í  la Grecque and Dashi Consomme

CRISPY MARCHO FARMS VEAL SWEETBREADS

Grilled Vidalia Onions, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Oregano and Dolin Rouge Butter

PAN SEARED PRIME MIDWESTERN BEEF

Slow Baked Penn Farms Tomato, Shaved Fennel and Sauce Choron

A SELECTION OF ARTISANAL CHEESES FROM OUR TROLLEY

GOLDHILL FARM BLUEBERRY CRíŠPES

Blueberry Bay Syrup, Whipped Crème Fraí®che and Maple Whiskey Sabayon Glácé

GRILLED PEACH MELBA

Earth "˜N' Eats Red Haven Peaches, Whipped Raspberry, Sbrisolona Cake and African Amber Rooibos Ice Cream

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NOTE - if you ever indulge in going here, DO SPLURGE for the cheese course. DO IT! They roll the cart out to you and present you with about twenty or so cheeses ranging from cow, sheep, goat or combination cheeses from mild, to stinky to onslaught worthy blues that you get to pick from their descriptions (how they remember all 20 is beyond me). The cheeses and the accompaniments are not to be missed in my opinion.

Does CityZen allow the cheese course as an add-on to the 3-course bar menu, or is it only available in the main dining room?

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Does CityZen allow the cheese course as an add-on to the 3-course bar menu, or is it only available in the main dining room?

It's available as an add-on. I don't remember if they roll out the entire cart or just describe the cheeses to you and let you pick.

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In Don's dining guide, there's a note at the top about how restaurants are called out:

BOLD = Superlative (CityZen, Corduroy, Komi, Marcel's, Rogue 24, Roberto's 8, Restaurant Eve, Inn at Little Washington)
ITALIC = Very Good, Excellent, Outstanding, or Noteworthy (less than 20% of all independent (non-chain) restaurants earn this)

The Tour de France rates the climbs that the riders encounter on a 1-4 scale. But they have a special designation for those climbs that are just so far above the scale that they have to be mentioned separately - HC (hors catégorie - beyond categorization).

In the last 3-4 years, I have had the great pleasure to be able to dine at each of the listed bold restaurants, several of them twice. Thus, I would like to propose for Don's guide an HC designation, and that the only restaurant in that category should be CityZen.

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In Don's dining guide, there's a note at the top about how restaurants are called out:

BOLD = Superlative (CityZen, Corduroy, Komi, Marcel's, Rogue 24, Roberto's 8, Restaurant Eve, Inn at Little Washington)

ITALIC = Very Good, Excellent, Outstanding, or Noteworthy (less than 20% of all independent (non-chain) restaurants earn this)

The Tour de France rates the climbs that the riders encounter on a 1-4 scale. But they have a special designation for those climbs that are just so far above the scale that they have to be mentioned separately - HC (hors catégorie - beyond categorization).

In the last 3-4 years, I have had the great pleasure to be able to dine at each of the listed bold restaurants, several of them twice. Thus, I would like to propose for Don's guide an HC designation, and that the only restaurant in that category should be CityZen.

I agree with you completely, and it's been that way since it opened. The fact that *everyone* doesn't realize this boggles my mind, but I must be careful because of my personal friendship with Eric. The sad truth is that most people believe what they're spoon-fed, and I've studiously tried not to be so condescending because I think our members are better than that. Did you know that it has *never* been rated the #1 restaurant in Washingtonian? CityZen is the only Michelin 2-star (by French standards) restaurant in the DC area, and it's a solid 2-star, not a borderline case.

The real chefs in this town know - they all do, and they always have.

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CityZen is the only Michelin 2-star (by French standards) restaurant in the DC area, and it's a solid 2-star, not a borderline case.

Ate in a Michelin 2-star in Bonnieux, Vaucluse Monday night.  CityZen is better.

(This also applies to the French Laundry, but I find the current trend in French fine dining so precise and austere that it loses me to some extent.  It's like a modern art installation: an intellectual achievement but too often lacking in soul.  EZ brings a French-like precision to his cooking, but he colors outside the lines just enough to make his dishes as emotionally satisfying as they are intellectually challenging.  And, I'd like to think that he'd never pair marinated anchovies with almond milk. )

The Tour de France rates the climbs that the riders encounter on a 1-4 scale. But they have a special designation for those climbs that are just so far above the scale that they have to be mentioned separately - HC (hors catégorie - beyond categorization).

On a clear day you can see Mt. Ventoux from here.

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Ate in a Michelin 2-star in Bonnieux, Vaucluse Monday night.  CityZen is better.

Was this by any chance Le Moulin de Lourmarin? If so, I've been there too, and agree that CityZen is better.

A short walk from the restaurant, about a one-mile circular walk around the flat town, you reach the gravesite of Albert Camus - I did the stroll before dinner, and even stopped to read the man a little poem.

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Was this by any chance Le Moulin de Lourmarin? If so, I've been there too, and agree that CityZen is better.

A short walk from the restaurant, about a one-mile circular walk around the flat town, you reach the gravesite of Albert Camus - I did the stroll before dinner, and even stopped to read the man a little poem.

Why would the Le Moulin de Loumarin be in Bonnieux? :)

Actually, since his cookbook is in the kitchen of the Mas de Bastide de Moulin d'Oliviers, where we are staying, I happen to know that Eduard Loubet of Moulin de Loumarin moved his 2-star operation to the Bastide de Capelogue, when his mother bought the luxury hotel (at the top of the village -- spectacular views) and restaurant, though he still owns the Moulin.

I think I'nm driving through Loumarin tomorrow -- thanks for the Camus tip.

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I had dinner there this past weekend and it was excellent. Only HC in DC? I don't agree and would have to put Komi on that list.

The first course of veal brain (fitting addition to the October menu ;)) with corned veal tongue and bread and butter pickles is easily one of the best dishes I have had anywhere in a long, long time. I wonder if this could be had at the bar...

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MC, Chef Z said it would be at least 9-10 months before the new place opened, though he didn't specifically say he'd be at CZ until the end.

mdt - I've had some misses at Komi, and my first trip there I left not full. Very good, but not HC, or even great that meal.

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MC, I feel for you. My husband and I had been celebrating our Anniversary every year at Palena. Our Anniversary has been one of the few times a year we would be able to dine out at a truly special occasion restaurant.

So this year where are we going? To CityZen! I'm quite beside myself with excitement. I wasn't sure I would ever be able to dine here with all my allergies, since the menu changes daily. But I just found out that we will be able to do so. I am very much looking forward to Friday night, to say the least. :rolleyes: We rarely make the exception to dine on a day that is not our actual Anniversary (it's Saturday) but we really try not to drive all the way downtown on a weekend when we're there all week.

I had made a reservation at DBGB when they opened and I wasn't sure I'd keep the reservation since they are so new and the kinks are still being worked out, but didn't have a backup. And I did not have the best experience dealing with the staff in preparation for dining there. Palena was really the kind of special occasion restaurant that was perfect for our celebration. With so many allergies, special meals out where my restrictions can be accommodated are few and far betweevn, and Palena even had a copy of my allergy list on file. Needless to say I felt at ease and well taken care of dining there.

As I was feeling uneasy about our res at DBGB I decided with the impending move of Chef Ziebold and delay in his opening his own restaurant, maybe I should ask if they could accommodate me. I usually give more time to reach out to a restuarant but thought at least it was worth a shot. And wow, the experience in my dealings thus far with CityZen has been a complete 180 from DBGB. The person I spoke with on the phone was excellent, and the Chef offered to speak with me directly about the menu. The service thus far is definitely on par with our past experiences at Palena. I'm sure the food will be excellent as well.

Now what are we going to do next year?!

(besides hoping for Chef to have his own restaurant open by then...)

ETA-I know Don is good friends with the Chef, but CityZen had no knowledge of my being a member of DR.com.

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[sNIP]And I did not have the best experience dealing with the staff in preparation for dining there. Palena was really the kind of special occasion restaurant that was perfect for our celebration. With so many allergies, special meals out where my restrictions can be accommodated are few and far betweevn, and Palena even had a copy of my allergy list on file. Needless to say I felt at ease and well taken care of dining there

Sounds like you undoubtedly made the right choice going to CZ.

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MC, I feel for you. My husband and I had been celebrating our Anniversary every year at Palena. Our Anniversary has been one of the few times a year we would be able to dine out at a truly special occasion restaurant.

So this year where are we going? To CityZen! I'm quite beside myself with excitement. I wasn't sure I would ever be able to dine here with all my allergies, since the menu changes daily. But I just found out that we will be able to do so. I am very much looking forward to Friday night, to say the least. :rolleyes: We rarely make the exception to dine on a day that is not our actual Anniversary (it's Saturday) but we really try not to drive all the way downtown on a weekend when we're there all week.

I had made a reservation at DBGB when they opened and I wasn't sure I'd keep the reservation since they are so new and the kinks are still being worked out, but didn't have a backup. And I did not have the best experience dealing with the staff in preparation for dining there. Palena was really the kind of special occasion restaurant that was perfect for our celebration. With so many allergies, special meals out where my restrictions can be accommodated are few and far betweevn, and Palena even had a copy of my allergy list on file. Needless to say I felt at ease and well taken care of dining there.

As I was feeling uneasy about our res at DBGB I decided with the impending move of Chef Ziebold and delay in his opening his own restaurant, maybe I should ask if they could accommodate me. I usually give more time to reach out to a restuarant but thought at least it was worth a shot. And wow, the experience in my dealings thus far with CityZen has been a complete 180 from DBGB. The person I spoke with on the phone was excellent, and the Chef offered to speak with me directly about the menu. The service thus far is definitely on par with our past experiences at Palena. I'm sure the food will be excellent as well.

Now what are we going to do next year?!

(besides hoping for Chef to have his own restaurant open by then...)

ETA-I know Don is good friends with the Chef, but CityZen had no knowledge of my being a member of DR.com.

I know you have such a hard time with your allergies, I am so glad they could accommodate you.  Belated Happy Anniversary!

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MC, I feel for you. My husband and I had been celebrating our Anniversary every year at Palena. Our Anniversary has been one of the few times a year we would be able to dine out at a truly special occasion restaurant.

Not to veer too far off topic, but we'd hit up Palena at least 3 times a year (usually a lot more), and especially on our anniversay. I still have a hole in my culinary soul at the moment. But it has forced me in to try places i may not have, or may not have for a long while. One of the great things was getting back to Cityzen this year - what a treat. And while I am sad to see Cityzen is closing, I am looking forward to see what the new Ziebold restaurant will be like almost as much as I am looking forward to what Frank Ruta's next thing will be.

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Thanks Daniel"¦"¦.looks like I'm too late for that dinner.   Bummer
 
 PS to my post - - I forgot to mention the best part of the meal.  Besides the food, and the service that is.
 
The music.  THE MUSIC!
 
We heard:
 
Grateful Dead - Estimated Profit
Bob Dylan - Gotta Serve Somebody
Wilco - Jesus, Etc.
 
Two of my all time favorites and my current/modern all time favorite.
 
Take that Don Rockwell!

Because when I hear his songs [bob Dylan], I hear someone with no musical talent, a terrible voice, and lyrics that reflect his age.

Maybe one day I'll turn towards The Grateful Dead (I couldn't name five songs they wrote or sang).

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