1683 replies to this topic

[Waitman]

Yeah but is your job eating out at every restaurant in town and then jetting around the world eating out as you go and then spending time writing about your experiences in detail? Seems like most of us on this board do that already without it being our job.

What was all the cryptic talk about the Silver Spring branch of CO Kitchen? I never understand when he starts talking about "hints". Was that a hint to the owner to call him or some disguised hint to the reader?

I'm guessing that he's heard the rumors, too, and is looking for confirmation before he gets scooped by Kliman. Again

[dmwine]

Yeah but is your job eating out at every restaurant in town and then jetting around the world eating out as you go and then spending time writing about your experiences in detail? Seems like most of us on this board do that already without it being our job.

Nothing on this or any other board matches what Tom, or Eve Zibart, or Todd Kliman do in terms of the work, research and food expertise they devote to their jobs. Not to mention good writing, which is never as easy as it looks, especially week in, week out, on deadline. I say this as someone who is paid to eat and drink and then write about it. I believe I do all three well, but for me it's a sideline. It's a lot of fun, but it's a lot of work too. I have tremendous respect for people who do it full time. More respect than envy, even.

[JLK]

I interviewed Chef Clark awhile back (almost a year ago) and she mentioned that she always checks out restaurant spaces. Kind of a what if/maybe someday situation.

[crackers]

Today's Chat

Bebo goes live October 18th, "Ceiba is on a downward spiral" yadda yadda...

[Stretch]

Someone has a hangover this morning.

Tom Sietsema: I know Blacksalt has a number of high-profile fans, but I'm not one of them. The food can be hit or miss, the interior is off-putting and the service is a joke.

Tom Sietsema: CityZen bests Citronelle in the service department. Oh, how I wish Mr. Richard could see how a few veteran servers are ruining the overall dining experience for his patrons!

Oh, and the cooking at 2941 is "kind of clumsy and predictable", Acadiana is "pretty ugly", and the new Johnny's Half Shell on the Hill better get their shit together ricky-tick or it's going to be Le Pigalle all over again.

[JPW]

Is it just me, or is Tom becoming less of a food critic and more of an interior design critic?

[Waitman]

I am, of course, a crank, but I find a little bit of bile to be a fine palate cleanser after the surpelatives of the dining guide and the general obsequiousness of most Internet postings, regardless of the forum. Sometimes the Emperor indeed has no clothes.

As for the architecture critic point, it's well taken, but it's a natural development in an era in which any number of restaurants (cf every restaurant in Penn Quarter except Jaleo) put as much thought into their decor as into their food.

[TedE]

Is it just me, or is Tom becoming less of a food critic and more of an interior design critic?

I think he's always been that way; if I remember he was criticized for it even in his early days at this gig. Maybe now the groundswell has reached the point of "Enough already, just tell us about the damn food!". Alas, there are many people in this city who care much more about where they eat than what they eat, so I think he has an audience.

Any guesses on what the potential one- or zero-star victim is?

Tom Sietsema: Well, I DO go to a lot of mediocre places. Most of the time, I don't bother turning them into reviews, but I do make exceptions if they're somehow newsworthy (located in a well-trod neighborhood or helmed by a prominent chef).

Stay tuned. A negative review is in your future, for the very reasons I mention.

Well-trod? Prominent chef? Given the other banter in the chat: the new Johnny's?!

[giant shrimp]

today, acadiana is "fine." on monday, etete was "fine." but neither is really "fine." he doesn't especially like the food at the former and he had a better time a year ago at the latter.

i wouldn't be surprised if it had a totally different feel from the inside, where i have not yet been, but from the outside the new ping-pong pizza place looks more like a wrecked room, than the rec room tom describes in this morning's newspaper. even if the pizza were top-rate, and maybe it is or will be, you would have to say something about the architecture.

[The Hersch]

Peter, Paul, Ringo and John

I think he was drunk. Puff the Magic Dragon's Lonely Hearts Club Band, anyone?

[Heather]

Someone has a hangover this morning.
Oh, and the cooking at 2941 is "kind of clumsy and predictable", Acadiana is "pretty ugly", and the new Johnny's Half Shell on the Hill better get their shit together ricky-tick or it's going to be Le Pigalle all over again.

I have no issue with his assessment of Acadiana as it is indeed an ugly, uncomfortable space.

He was a wee bit harsh on Johnny's Half Shell. it's been open, what? Three weeks?

Any guesses on what the potential one- or zero-star victim is?

Is it that hard to guess?

[TedE]

He was a wee bit harsh on Johnny's Half Shell. it's been open, what? Three weeks?
Is it that hard to guess?

Given how long the new Johnny's has been open, I would be surprised if that is the forthcoming negative review. It would seem to violate his policy of letting a place work out the kinks before before his "formal" visits. Or were you referring to another easy to guess new place that I'm missing?

[Stretch]

I am, of course, a crank, but I find a little bit of bile to be a fine palate cleanser after the surpelatives of the dining guide.

Speaking of bile, the guide certainly does seem to shake loose the most dispassionate and articulate citizen reviewers.

[Heather]

Given how long the new Johnny's has been open, I would be surprised if that is the forthcoming negative review. It would seem to violate his policy of letting a place work out the kinks before before his "formal" visits. Or were you referring to another easy to guess new place that I'm missing?

I agree that Johnny's hasn't been open long enough to be this week's negative review.

(Stretch, the first one is classic.)

[monavano]

I don't get the sense that Tom is usually cavalier. Perhaps it's just battle fatigue talking. Tom's been on a tight deadline to put this guide out, then as he alluded - he recieves thinly veiled bribes and diatribes. He's made some in the business happy, some sad ,and some perhaps a wee dram mad this week.

[tenunda]

I agree that Johnny's hasn't been open long enough to be this week's negative review.

(Stretch, the first one is classic.)

But does Johnny's count as new, since it's just a change in location? It seems like a restaurant who has staff already trained and ready to go would need less time.

[Heather]

But does Johnny's count as new, since it's just a change in location? It seems like a restaurant who has staff already trained and ready to go would need less time.

Another reason not to assume it's Johnny's.

[lackadaisi]

My guess is PS7 (just a guess - I haven't been).

[Tujague]

PS7 only opened Sept. 14, so if he's reviewing it, he's only started his visits this week (and might he wait until it's opened for lunch before a review?). My guess is a place with a new chef, like Mendocino, or maybe Bastille, down in Alexandria.

[DonRocks]

I haven't followed this that closely, but here are some thoughts. I read his chat today, and believe he implied he was going to trash a 'name chef in a well-trodden area,' but he didn't imply that it would be this week. So, given that, here's my handicap, listed in ascending order of probability:

7. Comet Ping-Pong - Too soon, pizza is great (see next week's Lettres), not a candidate for trashing.
6. Johnny's Half Shell - Too soon, certainly a candidate when its time comes.
5. Montsouris - Too soon, not a big-name chef (who is the chef here?)
4. PS7 - Peter Smith not yet a big name (sorry), recently lost their GM (sigh)
3. Bastille - Christophe Poteaux not a big-name chef, but remember the "Don't count your poulets before they're hatched" comment in one of Tom's chats.
2. PX/Eamonn's - Important, great, cannot be trashed with any degree of credibility, but smart money has a review coming out very soon.
1. Lia's - Geoff Tracey, Friendship Heights ... take a guess where I'd place my bet.

Cheers,
Rocks.

[bilrus]

4. PS7 - Peter Smith not a big name chef (sorry), recently lost their GM (sigh)

Did I miss something in the last few days?

[Heather]

Did I miss something in the last few days?

Apparently. Good handicapping, Don. Something to think about for sure.

[Banco]

PS7 only opened Sept. 14, so if he's reviewing it, he's only started his visits this week (and might he wait until it's opened for lunch before a review?). My guess is a place with a new chef, like Mendocino, or maybe Bastille, down in Alexandria.

It's certainly not Mendocino. I had dinner there last night and it was one of the most delightful dining experiences I've had in DC all year.

[Tujague]

I haven't followed this that closely, but here are some thoughts. I read his chat today, and believe he implied he was going to trash a 'name chef in a well-trodden area,' but he didn't imply that it would be this week. So, given that, here's my handicap, listed in ascending order of probability:

7. Comet Ping-Pong - Too soon, pizza is great (see next week's Lettres), not a candidate for trashing.
6. Johnny's Half Shell - Too soon, certainly a candidate when its time comes.
5. Montsouris - Too soon, not a big-name chef (who is the chef here?)
4. PS7 - Peter Smith not yet a big name (sorry), recently lost their GM (sigh)
3. Bastille - Christophe Poteaux not a big-name chef, but remember the "Don't count your poulets before they're hatched" comment in one of Tom's chats.
2. PX/Eamonn's - Important, great, cannot be trashed with any degree of credibility, but smart money has a review coming out very soon.
1. Lia's - Geoff Tracey, Friendship Heights ... take a guess where I'd place my bet.

Well, Eve Zibart is taking on Lia's tomorrow, so I'll place my bets now on Bastille.
Whee! Sietsema speculation is fun!

[Mark Slater]

I haven't followed this that closely, but here are some thoughts. I read his chat today, and believe he implied he was going to trash a 'name chef in a well-trodden area,' but he didn't imply that it would be this week. So, given that, here's my handicap, listed in ascending order of probability:

7. Comet Ping-Pong - Too soon, pizza is great (see next week's Lettres), not a candidate for trashing.
6. Johnny's Half Shell - Too soon, certainly a candidate when its time comes.
5. Montsouris - Too soon, not a big-name chef (who is the chef here?)
4. PS7 - Peter Smith not yet a big name (sorry), recently lost their GM (sigh)
3. Bastille - Christophe Poteaux not a big-name chef, but remember the "Don't count your poulets before they're hatched" comment in one of Tom's chats.
2. PX/Eamonn's - Important, great, cannot be trashed with any degree of credibility, but smart money has a review coming out very soon.
1. Lia's - Geoff Tracey, Friendship Heights ... take a guess where I'd place my bet.

Cheers,
Rocks.

He was pretty harsh on Marcel's on the Monday chat.

[jm chen]

I thought the harshest thing among all his harshness on yesterday's chat was his assertion first that there are a "few" waiters at Citronelle ruining the place's service reputation, then specifically calling out that there's one grumpy waiter he thinks should be fired.

Pretty drastic.

[Jacques Gastreaux]

2. PX/Eamonn's - Important, great, cannot be trashed with any degree of credibility, but smart money has a review coming out very soon.

Frankly, I don't think the "star" system is very well suited to a combo like Eammon's/PX. And he has said nice things about PX (I think, or was that Kliman?). Eammon's only serves fish and chips and PX doesn't serve any food at all (unless youy count the garnishes on the cocktails).

[mdt]

Frankly, I don't think the "star" system is very well suited to a combo like Eammon's/PX. And he has said nice things about PX (I think, or was that Kliman?).

I seriously doubt that he would group them together as one entity.

[Hannah]

There's definitely some sort of review of PX in the pipeline, because there was a Post photog in on Saturday evening. I would've assumed it's a Going Out Gurus piece rather than Sietsema, though, since there's no food involved.

[Jason]

Eamonn's **

[The Hersch]

He was pretty harsh on Marcel's on the Monday chat.

I thought his explanation of why Marcel's didn't make the cut was unsatisfactory. All he said was that Robert Wiedmaier isn't in the kitchen enough. Nothing about the food or the service, just that the chef isn't in the kitchen enough. The last meal I had at Marcel's, about four months ago I think, was excellent...the food and the service were both first-rate. Wiedmaier was definitely not in the kitchen, and I didn't care. I did miss the charming Ramon, who was also not present, though.

[bonaire]

So, there have been a lot of questions recently in Tom's chat (Today's Chat) about whether he is recognized when he does his restaurant visits. Prompts, in my mind, a few questions:

1. Does it matter to those reading the reviews whether he was recognized? How much do you discount a review if you think the person got special treatment?

2. Is he really as recognized as people think?

3. How much can a restaurant truly step up its performance (food and service) if it thinks it's catering to a critic?

Not sure if this is the appropriate place for this question, but think he gets an awful lot of grief that I'm not sure is totally warranted re: recognition.

[DonRocks]

3. How much can a restaurant truly step up its performance (food and service) if it thinks it's catering to a critic?

At the very top level (meaning Citronelle, Maestro, etc.), they can step it up A LOT on a moment's notice. It happens all the time, and anyone who thinks otherwise is kidding themselves.

[porcupine]

1. Does it matter to those reading the reviews whether he was recognized? How much do you discount a review if you think the person got special treatment?

2. Is he really as recognized as people think?

3. How much can a restaurant truly step up its performance (food and service) if it thinks it's catering to a critic?

Not sure if this is the appropriate place for this question, but think he gets an awful lot of grief that I'm not sure is totally warranted re: recognition.

1. Yes, and a lot, especially since I've been to a lot of restaurants he recommended and had a thoroughly mediocre (or bad) experience.

2. Yes.

3. More than Tom says it can, especially service.

[bonaire]

At the very top level (meaning Citronelle, Maestro, etc.), they can step it up A LOT on a moment's notice. It happens all the time, and anyone who thinks otherwise is kidding themselves.

Is this the same for food and service? I've never been an industry person, so from the outside I can imagine service improving dramatically, but can restaurants do the same w/ food?

[Spiral Stairs]

At the very top level (meaning Citronelle, Maestro, etc.), they can step it up A LOT on a moment's notice. It happens all the time, and anyone who thinks otherwise is kidding themselves.

As famously proved by Ruth Reichl. (Surprisingly hard to find a good link for that story!)

[Poivrot Farci]

an industry person,

It is the same in virtually any industry. Rather than selling a floor model television or old piece of fish, you go back to the store room and sell a fresh one

[porcupine]

Is this the same for food and service? I've never been an industry person, so from the outside I can imagine service improving dramatically, but can restaurants do the same w/ food?

Why not? The way human nature is, no one performs at 100% all of the time. And I imagine that kitchen staff could single out a specially nice steak from the pile of very good ones, and spend an extra two minutes taking more care than usual with the sauce, and so on.

This is, of course, speculation.

[DonRocks]

Is this the same for food and service? I've never been an industry person, so from the outside I can imagine service improving dramatically, but can restaurants do the same w/ food?

Yes, I'd say especially with food. The chef himself (or herself) will hover over a critic's dishes, sometimes preparing several and choosing the best one to send out. I've heard stories of rotator cuff injuries incurred by the person shaving the truffle when the critic comes a-calling. If there are six halibut filets left, guess which one the critic gets? It goes on and on.

This is reality and there isn't much to be done about it.

Cheers,
Rocks.

[bonaire]

I've heard stories of rotator cuff injuries incurred by the person shaving the truffle when the critic comes a-calling.

Good lord. And I thought my carpal tunnel from IMing w/ Mark Foley was bad....

The comments on stepping up the food make sense. Do the chatters who think Tom should just accept that he's outed and run with it have a point then?

[smokey]

1. Yes, and a lot, especially since I've been to a lot of restaurants he recommended and had a thoroughly mediocre (or bad) experience.

Yeah, but I've had thoroughly mediocre (or bad) experiences at places unrated by Tom, but highly rated by rockwellers/chowhounds/what-have-you. I don't think the disparity in experience is because those other folks were recognized (at least not always) and hence received better food/service than me (an unrecognizable schlump). I think there's a lot of variability in the performance of most restaurants, particularly those below the very top echelon of the feeding chain.

[BlakeG]

Yeah, but I've had thoroughly mediocre (or bad) experiences at places unrated by Tom, but highly rated by rockwellers/chowhounds/what-have-you. I don't think the disparity in experience is because those other folks were recognized (at least not always) and hence received better food/service than me (an unrecognizable schlump). I think there's a lot of variability in the performance of most restaurants, particularly those below the very top echelon of the feeding chain.

I'll tell you, you and a friend could come into any restaurant I have worked at on the same night and sit in two different sections and you would probably both have completely different reviews. I do think as you go up the food chain though the disparity does even out a bit as you get more seasoned and well-trained professionals.

[porcupine]

I think there's a lot of variability in the performance of most restaurants, particularly those below the very top echelon of the feeding chain.

You raise some good points, Smokey. Especially in one and two star places, there is going to be variability. But when do you begin to suspect something else is going on? For me it was after too many times of going to a restaurant because he recommended it, then having a totally different experience from his.

There are also places he's dismissed that I love, for whatever that's worth.

For one group of friends he's become the anti-critic - as in, "here's another place to put on the do-not-try list, since Sietsema likes it."

My belief that he is well-known and recognized is not idle conjecture, but based on experiences I've had (including confirmed sightings) and friends in the industry who've told me things I cannot share here. Wish I could give you the details, but I've promised not to, so there it is. It isn't a convincing argument, I know, so believe me or not as you choose.

To be fair, recognition or no, he is a good resource and I enjoy reading his columns and chats. He doesn't have to be everybody's hero to do a good job. If he would just retire the word "soulful"...

-----------
eta: I use too many words. Bluntly: I've been burned often enough that I don't trust his opinions anymore, but I appreciate his facts.

[Heather]

This got a WTF from me:

I think Johnny's Half Shell is going to have a hard time in its new location. While the old location was small, it reminded you that it was a local place, not part of a chain. I recently had dinner at the new location, and it had all of the charm of M&S or Legal Seafood, except that the portions were smaller and prices higher. When I go out to a nice dinner, I want a dining room that is no bigger than, say, Palena or Tosca. Anything much bigger, and I feel like I'm at the Olive Garden, until the check arrives, that is. Just my two cents.

Dissing a place just because it's large, regardless of the quality of the food? And I don't think a seafood joint like Johnny's is going for the same crowd as Palena.

[bonaire]

This got a WTF from me: Dissing a place just because it's large, regardless of the quality of the food? And I don't think a seafood joint like Johnny's is going for the same crowd as Palena.

I agree with you on this -- I actually attempted to respond but it wasn't picked up. I didn't think the prices were out of line and goodness gracious we've waited long enough on the Hill for decent food, why limit access?? Small and intimate can be great, but not at a place that will likely cater an awful lot to the expense account crowd. And to your exact point Heather, why diss a place just because it's big?? City Zen is bigger than both Palena and Tosca and seems to be doing just fine....

[DonRocks]

I just read through the chat. I can say with a strong degree of certainty that Tom is about as squeaky-clean as anyone in his position could be in. I realize that nobody here is calling his ethics into question, but would still like to emphasize that, in my experience, he is completely honest. He's a nice guy, too.

[ulysses]

At the very top level (meaning Citronelle, Maestro, etc.), they can step it up A LOT on a moment's notice. It happens all the time, and anyone who thinks otherwise is kidding themselves.

I have a very good story about a water pipe bursting while Sietsama was dining in a top level restaurant(not Citronelle)and the maitre'd and servers were quietly mopping water away from the dining room. As he left everyone made sure to look him in the eye and say "thank you" so that he wouldn't look down and see the water flowing along the walls.

[brian]

I agree with you on this -- I actually attempted to respond but it wasn't picked up. I didn't think the prices were out of line and goodness gracious we've waited long enough on the Hill for decent food, why limit access?? Small and intimate can be great, but not at a place that will likely cater an awful lot to the expense account crowd. And to your exact point Heather, why diss a place just because it's big?? City Zen is bigger than both Palena and Tosca and seems to be doing just fine....

CityZen may be bigger, but it's got far fewer seats than Tosca and not too many more than Palena. I understand the concern over restaurant size - in a bigger restaurant the GM has more ground to cover, the chef is going to have less time on every plate, food crossing more distance between the kitchen and table, and a bigger staff means it's harder to find enough good people. On my last few vacations I've noticed a clear inverse relationship between restaurant size and the quality of the experience, even for places with similarly enthusiastic reviews.

[Joe H]

I just read through the chat. I can say with a strong degree of certainty that Tom is about as squeaky-clean as anyone in his position could be in. I realize that nobody here is calling his ethics into question, but would still like to emphasize that, in my experience, he is completely honest. He's a nice guy, too.

With 600 cookbooks and extensive travelling which he pays for himself I think his passion, knowledge and experience are also the equal of anyone on this or any board. Like my wife and several close friends he may just be wrong in some of his opinions...

Edited by Joe H, 25 October 2006 - 01:44 PM.

[smokey]

But when do you begin to suspect something else is going on? For me it was after too many times of going to a restaurant because he recommended it, then having a totally different experience from his.

My belief that he is well-known and recognized is not idle conjecture, but based on experiences I've had (including confirmed sightings) and friends in the industry who've told me things I cannot share here. Wish I could give you the details, but I've promised not to, so there it is. It isn't a convincing argument, I know, so believe me or not as you choose.

I agree that a regular repetition of experiences like what you've described would probably lead me to the same conclusion you drew regarding Tom and his visibility. And I admit, I have no idea what Tom looks like (is Tom short for Thomas or Thomasina?!), but am willing to believe there is a reasonably large cadre of people who do.

Although I made a bit of the opposite argument above, I will say it's evident to me that there are rockwellians who are recognized at certain restaurants and do get particularly good service at those restaurants. (I have no idea if they get better food and I wouldn't for a second argue that the head chef is in the kitchen plating 6 different steaks to choose just the right one that goes out to them!) I don't even comment here about my perception, because the restaunts tend to be sacred cows and I'm not interested in fighting that battle. But my perception certainly colors my decisions on whether I'm going to go to these restaurants, because I doubt the experience I have will be the same as the experiences I read here.