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Non-Stop? How about: Please Stop?


wisehands

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It's different because Don isn't out there pimping it, hiring PR flacks, and bribing people to shill for him while putting out a Yelp-level product.

I don't think that is my point. Everyone has different methods of advertising, PR-using, marketing, etc... But I don't think it is fair to berate someone for using their 'fame' to help drive their business. To each his own. Is it frustrating to see someone like Spike and Mike Isabella rise from obscurity to fame and fortune based on Top Chef? Of course it is. Are they bad people for doing so? I don't think so. What Don Rockwell does (or doesn't do) to promote the website is his choice. I agree the grass-roots approach is preferable, I mean, that is pretty much how we have grown our shop. (i.e word of mouth, no PR people, little marketing, etc). But I would never look down on another business or chef for taking another approach and striking when the proverbial iron is hot.

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[Just to let everyone know, I'm following this thread closely. I've also asked no less than 20 people, privately, what they think of what I've written. The vast majority (probably 70-80%) support what I say (chefs are more like 90% in support), and I may even include some anonymous responses here (I do not wish to name any names), but there is also a very adamant minority (including a couple people whom I respect very much) who told me that I was above writing such a diatribe. mtureck, you're free to cut-and-paste our entire conversation if you wish (but I'd ask that you include the entire thing, not just part of it) - so is everyone else I've talked with. I wish I never started this thread because at the end of the day, I really don't want to tear people down. One thing I now realize is that Spike Mendelsohn is not a chef; he's a celebrity, and what's so wrong with that. Who knows, I may delete the whole thread at some point. Carry on and speak freely.]

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I have to agree. These people are running businesses to make money and a living. I have to believe that Spike can probably cook quite well, but instead decided to focus on a form of cuisine that can actually pay the bills. Should we degrade him because he rode the PR wave of Top Chef and decided to use it to his best advantage? I think most people here would have done the same thing. He is under no obligation to "lick the boots" of other DC chefs. He's just a guy trying to make a living and got lucky in doing so. So what?

Thanks, Jason. I agree with all of your points here. He got a break, and is making it work for him. I'm not a fan - in fact I wouldn't know who he was if it wasn't for this board - but he doesn't deserve vitriol for doing what he can to make his businesses succeed. No amount of online foot-stomping is going to make him less popular. The best you can hope is that he fades into obscurity once he's no longer the flavor of the month.

It's different because Don isn't out there pimping it, hiring PR flacks, and bribing people to shill for him while putting out a Yelp-level product.

I would bet cash money that there are many chefs on that list paying people to shill for them, either directly or indirectly. By which I mean PR flacks, advertisers, bloggers, etc. It's not confined to celebrity chefs.

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I wish I could recall the exact words, but didn't Spike consign DC to the ranks of a second class restaurant city?

That thread is here.

I'm going to let people speak their minds before I respond further. One thing some people don't realize about me is that I do not hesitate to admit when I make mistakes, and I try and learn from them, and correct them. Not many restaurant "critics" (or whatever it is that I am) have the courage to do that, but I do, and I give you my word that I will, without hesitation. I truly believe that admitting a mistake is a sign of strength, and not an admission of weakness.

Please keep expressing your honest opinions here. I'm going to wait awhile, perhaps a few days, a week, or perhaps longer, and try and read and learn from the incredibly educated people on this website whom I hold in the absolute highest of esteem.

One thing I can tell you is that many, many chefs are afraid to come forward and say what they really want to say (I know this for a fact, based on numerous text messages that I've sent out, and the responses that I've received); and I'm absolutely not going to ruin my reputation by being their fall guy. If these people don't have the guts to say what they actually think, then they shouldn't expect me to come out and do it for them - sorry, folks, but I'm not going to.

I'll remain silent for the time being. But I assure you that I'll speak my mind when the time comes.

Peace to all (yes, Spike and Mike, you too),

Rocks.

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Don, please do not shut this topic down, I think it makes for a really interesting discussion. First of all, there is no doubting your enthusiasm in the defense of the DC dining scene, and for that alone, all of the chefs on your before mentioned list should be thankful. I guess what it comes down to for me, is that just because a restaurant, bakery, chocolate shop, whatever is in the spotlight and succeeding---that we should somehow look down on them for 'selling out', 'losing their soul', etc.... Of course we all love the story of the mom and pop restaurant that hasn't changed in 50 years, or the chef who is behind the stoves 365 days a year. And yes, those are great stories, but those types of places are few and far between. I think most chefs/restauranteurs (probably most of whom were on your list, as Heather stated) would welcome the opportunity to have more press, be in the spotlight, and in turn, fill more seats and make more money. How they go about doing this is entirely up to them and not for us to judge. Yes, you may get frustrated by it, by I don't think it is inherently evil to have PR folks, marketing teams, etc, etc.. to help fill seats.

I guess for me the reason this topic is so interesting is that I have discussed it many times before with my wife, friends, and co-workers. Even though making food, cuisine etc.. could be considered an 'art' (I think of it more as a trade or craft, but that is another topic altogether), these people are also running businesses to make a living. I will just speak for myself, but I didn't get into the food business to make money. I got into because I liked to cook and bake, and I liked the feeling of sharing what I was making with others. I have to think the majority of food service folks out there are probably in the same camp. However, in order to actually make a living doing this, I DO need to make money in order to pay my bills (and hopefully myself). For me the money has never come first, but it is always in the back of my mind. I have no problem with a chef growing his business by whatever means they think is necessary. For someone like Mike Isabella, I think he should take full advantage of his status and do whatever he can to help out his personal situation. He has probably worked plenty of long hours at low wages, in hot kitchens, getting yelled at, etc...An opportunity arose for him and he, like most anyone, is going to use it to his advantage (both financially and socially).

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I would bet cash money that there are many chefs on that list paying people to shill for them, either directly or indirectly. By which I mean PR flacks, advertisers, bloggers, etc. It's not confined to celebrity chefs.

No doubt. As a matter of fact, I recently had a disturbing experience at a well-regarded restaurant that proves it.

btw, my defense of Don and his website should not be misconstrued as a condemnation of Mike or Spike.

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How they go about doing this is entirely up to them and not for us to judge.

I think it is entirely appropriate to point out that certain chef/restaurant is more hype than substance on a food related website. If not, then this website serves no purpose whatsoever. If you don't want to judge, that's your prerogative but don't chill my or anyone else's right to judge. I want to say judging infers being balanced and truthful, not biased and libelous.

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Don`s main point is, Spike publishing himself as `I can do better food than many other chefs here` and telling this ignorantly while he doesnt have much of a background or a training long enough, under really good chefs. I don`t think Don cares much how Mike and Spike do their PR.

When you say `you can do better` there is always a two sided argument. If somebody tells me they can drive better, I will say prove it and/or no you cant. So there is always a defense.

I agree with Don, Spike is very ignorant and full of himself. However, I believe they have the right to do their PR any way they want.

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I would be of the opinion that it is time to shut this thread down. When I read the first couple of posts I thought the thread may evolve into something interesting, however for me it has regressed into something that is pretty heavy, and at this point tiresome. The 2 points that I wished to continue reading about were how fast should a chef/business expand, and the importance/or not of authenticty. I thought both of those tangents really had potential to evolve into something thought provoking. Unfortunately, that's not what we've focused on, so Don, if you can maybe split that into 2 separate threads I would probably enjoy continuing to read people's opinions. For me this topic, as it stands now, I'm done with.

To the spirit of the initial idea that I thought the topic was I would add this. Yes, Mike and Co. would seem to be expanding very fast. I think this says more about the times we live in than it does anything else. As I'm typing this I'm thinking about the masses of people in Georgetown, and the dining options that exist there. Based on the success of Grafiato, and the overall level of execution there I think they will add something to the Georgetown scene in a positive way. So why would they not expand?

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I would be of the opinion that it is time to shut this thread down. When I read the first couple of posts I thought the thread may evolve into something interesting, however for me it has regressed into something that is pretty heavy, and at this point tiresome. The 2 points that I wished to continue reading about were how fast should a chef/business expand, and the importance/or not of authenticty. I thought both of those tangents really had potential to evolve into something thought provoking. Unfortunately, that's not what we've focused on, so Don, if you can maybe split that into 2 separate threads I would probably enjoy continuing to read people's opinions. For me this topic, as it stands now, I'm done with.

I don't see any reason to shut down this discussion. If others want to start new threads on other topics, great. Authenticity, PR, celebrity & its place in food/dining culture, the concept of "paying one's dues, and even free expression in the marketplace...all worthy of discussion and debate.

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I'm also in the camp of favoring the thread not be shut down simply because I value open, candid thinking and civil, free form discussion. These are important and even cherished things. Maybe sometimes controversial but always constructive and productive.

I'm actually the one that started the thread (though Don added the propellant) but with a different tenor than some of the twists and turns it has taken. And that's a great thing about this website. People, many of them very invested and expert in the topics, can take positions. Others can disagree. Minds can be changed. At times, apologies are offered and accepted. That's all very healthy stuff I think. And, through it all, so much one can learn if open to it. Different ways to think about something. Facts one has wrong. The very existence of super cool Russian animation. New approaches to a problem or opportunity. All very valuable stuff. Stuff of a community beyond a website. Stuff never found on Yelp. Why on earth would anyone want to erase that?

And, on the learning point, is this really the case in most chef/owner's minds?

<snip> Even though making food, cuisine etc.. could be considered an 'art' (I think of it more as a trade or craft, but that is another topic altogether), these people are also running businesses to make a living. I will just speak for myself, but I didn't get into the food business to make money. I got into because I liked to cook and bake, and I liked the feeling of sharing what I was making with others. I have to think the majority of food service folks out there are probably in the same camp. However, in order to actually make a living doing this, I DO need to make money in order to pay my bills (and hopefully myself). For me the money has never come first, but it is always in the back of my mind. <snip>

I don't mean to single out Jason at all. Rather, his point got me thinking. I'd have thought (maybe very wrongly) that for most food professionals under the age of 40 when they start (so not already wealthy from some other pursuit), it is about making money and also, maybe, doing something they love. 'Making money' for some might be just paying the bills. For others, raising a family and sending four children off to private colleges. And, for still others, building ridiculous wealth. Whatever the specific financial objective, isn't that the ultimate goal in any field from the arts to the trades to corporate whatever? Do what you love and get paid for it? And, of course, if you do truly love it, you're more likely to 'get paid' and do well with it. One not 'more important' than the other. Both symbiotic and equally important.

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I'll just speak for myself here, but honestly it was the other way around for me when I first started cooking. I found something I enjoyed doing and made me happy. I figured the money would follow. I think most culinary professionals going into the trade realize it is a hard, low-paying career choice, but you can make a living doing it. And by living, for me at least(now), it is a way to pay the bills, support my family, and hopefully have some in reserve to do the other things in life I enjoy doing. I think everyone's definition of 'wealth' is obviously subjective. Also, things change as you age. I have realized over the past few years that (again, speaking for myself), that being happy is far more important than any monetary wealth. I've been lucky that my business has been successful after many years of hard work on my part. And by successful, I don't mean that we make a lot of money (we don't), but we make enough for me to make a living, pay my bills, pay my employees, go on vacation, etc, etc...And you know what, I get up every single morning happy to go to the shop---to something that I created from nothing, and that is most rewarding and fulfilling thing of all.

Of course, this may be different for others (and to get back slightly on topic). For guys like Spike and Mike I, they are still doing something they love, and started doing because they loved to cook. It just turns out that they are getting fame and wealth in doing so, and for that, I have no problem with how they go about doing it. Everyone 'pays their dues' in different ways. Some get lucky. Some work very, very very hard at what they do and still toil in the trenches in obscurity. It is a unfair world we live in, but to each his own and I can't be jealous or upset about what others are doing.

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What's offensive about Mendelsohn and Isabella is that in their self promotion efforts, they regularly put down other chefs and potential clients. It's not enough for them to argue that their restaurant is deserving of patronage, it's that DC was a two-bit town without good chefs or good food culture before their arrival. Lots of celebrity chefs and local favorites are huge self promoters (Jose Andres and Dean Gold comes to mind), but they tend to do so in a big hearted manner that elevates the overall food culture.

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Why aren't we talking about the real issue here? The American dining public. This discussion is only possible because there are legions of people who are willing to stand in line for 90 minutes on a sweltering August afternoon in the streets of Georgetown for a cupcake because they saw it on the tee-vee. Furthermore they firmly believe that in partaking of said cupcake a little bit of that "fame" will rub off on them (Facebook: "OMG, stood in line for 90 minutes but it was SO WORTH IT!!!1!!1"). We're a nation of starf*ckers with no consideration for talent, that's the problem. Everybody wants to feel special.

I don't begrudge celebrity chefs recognizing this and cashing in on it. As much as we would like to believe it, this is not a meritocracy.

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Charles said everything that I'm thinking right here.

But reading the next 5 posts in that thread, all from local chefs, offers a different slant.

What's offensive about Mendelsohn and Isabella is that in their self promotion efforts, they regularly put down other chefs and potential clients. It's not enough for them to argue that their restaurant is deserving of patronage, it's that DC was a two-bit town without good chefs or good food culture before their arrival. Lots of celebrity chefs and local favorites are huge self promoters (Jose Andres and Dean Gold comes to mind), but they tend to do so in a big hearted manner that elevates the overall food culture.

This is what I was trying to say earlier, so perhaps this is a clearer way of saying it.

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But reading the next 5 posts in that thread, all from local chefs, offers a different slant.

It certainly left me wondering which of them have a publicist. And why should local chefs have the definitive word in this?

Getting your knickers in a twist about Spike's success is as futile as raging at Creed's radio play at the expense of the 500 outstanding indie bands you love that don't have platinum records. The public gets what the public wants, and we "foodies" are a pretty tiny subset.

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@ Heather: I may be mistaken, but your comments sound a lot like censorship justified by the popularity of the erstwhile target.

I disagree, just because there are the 90 minute idiots and the creed enthusiasts, doesn’t mean I can’t be annoyed by their existence or do what I can to withhold support from things that I find distasteful.

The original article and discussions on this board has certainly dampened my enthusiasm for Graffiato. I doubt I would patronize the place now, even if it gets raves. I don’t have the ability to change the world, but I do have the right and responsibility to behaved in a way that is consistent with my sense of decency.

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@ Heather: you're essentially saying that because something exists and is successful, we cannot comment upon or criticising it. Just because Creed happens to be successful and loved by persons of extraordinary bad taste, doesn't rob me of the ability to hate it and avoid people who enjoy such awfulness. Just because the public at large, led by the horrible infotainment complex, is currently quite debased, doesn't mean people who ought to know better doesn't have the right to critique parts of it.

Just as importantly, my knowledge of their behavior will prevent me from personally patronizing their establishments. I suspect it's the case for at least few other people here. Maybe that doesn't mean much in the grand scheme of things, but it does mean that I'm making a personal choice (I still have that right, correct?) to opt out.

Of course you have the right to opt out. I never said that you didn't. The highlighted phrase smacks of elitism, however, and I would wager drives down participation & conversation on this board.

I have a couple of Creed-loving friends with otherwise excellent taste in music. They like what they like, and I don't take it upon myself to judge them.

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If the alternative is listening to Creed, I plead guilty to elitism - but what gives you the right to define what constitutes elitism?

I'm not sure what universe hating Creed is considered unacceptable elitism, but regularly commenting on $50-100/person dinners is ?acceptable? elitism.

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Also - does that extend to other sorts of behavior that I personally find unacceptable - say in Congress or Wall Street or corporate board rooms? What should I muzzle my opinions because it happens and some people profit by it?

I don't actually give a flying F about either Isabella or Mendelsohn, beyond that I don't wish to patronize. But Heather's censorship really disturbs me.

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Also - does that extend to other sorts of behavior that I personally find unacceptable - say in Congress or Wall Street or corporate board rooms? What should I muzzle my opinions because it happens and some people profit by it?

I don't think anybody is asking you to muzzle your opinions (unless I'm reading Heather wrong). Just be prepared for the world at large not to give a shit. I personally like the fact that the whole premise of boards like this boils down to elitism bouncing around in a very specific echo chamber (Sorry, Don). Anything else just becomes the WaPo comment threads.

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What's offensive about Mendelsohn and Isabella is that in their self promotion efforts, they regularly put down other chefs and potential clients.

I've never had the sense that Isabella puts down other chefs. In general, he seems to be fairly respectful of DC's other chefs and the chefs that have helped his career (ie: Jose etc.)...unless I've missed some past statements he has made. I just find him to be massively over-hyped and based upon my one one and only visit, Graffiato to be mediocre.

Spike, on the otherhand, has a track-record of statements that are offensive.

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I don't actually give a flying F about either Isabella or Mendelsohn, beyond that I don't wish to patronize. But Heather's censorship really disturbs me.

Censorship? You are free to say whatever you want, and I never said otherwise. Disagreeing with what you say is not censorship.

(Self-censored to remove an f-bomb ;))

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Breathe. Breathe. All sides of this discussion have made their points,some louder than others, and quite frankly, that is ok IMHO. Some choose to read and stay on the sidelines, others choose to jump into the fray. This topic obviously set off some fireworks and in the name of of this website, that is a good thing. Not all topics drive people to read, some actually may in fact make them turn away just by topic. Whatever the case may be, the bottom line is that its ok to disagree, whether it be passionately, or quite muted.

My father-in-law and I were speaking several years ago on an article in the NY Times penned by David Brooks (One of my favorite columnists) that was discussing at the time Obama's approach to the bank bailouts. Now, for those who do not know David Brooks, he typically writes from the right side of the political spectrum, yet his column directly spoke with a rather left leaning view. My father-in-law said what makes David Brooks such a good writer is that he takes an approach/view from both sides of the coin. In doing so not only do you understand the whole picture, but you have a better stance in which to debate your point. Clearly if we all looked at one view through the lense of life, our path/direction could be rather boring. But a wide angle view allows us to see so much more of what is out there to offer us.

As for Heather's comment, the chord that struck me with a smile is the fact of her Creed loving friends who otherwise have good taste in music. I have a guy whom I work with who is somewhat of a beer geek and low and behold even he has the weak moment as he says to pop open a Bud Light Lime on a hot summers day. Go figure.

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Perhaps I’m misreading it, but Heather’s comments had rung a lot more of the “you should stop commenting because criticism is elitist and unrealistic” rather than “I think your criticism is elitist and unrealistic”. Also, I don’t think anyone commenting here ever thought their comments would change Mendelsohn or Isabella or the public’s behavior, so she seems to be building a strawman argument that ignores the actual context of the discussion – which is the first world problem of some famous chefs not being nice in the way that certain patrons of $100/head establishments would like them to be.

Now, I need to gently extract my foot from my mouth and tend to my other first world problem, of buying some spring outfits for my pygmy giraffes.

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Perhaps I’m misreading it, but Heather’s comments had rung a lot more of the “you should stop commenting because criticism is elitist and unrealistic” rather than “I think your criticism is elitist and unrealistic”. Also, I don’t think anyone commenting here ever thought their comments would change Mendelsohn or Isabella or the public’s behavior, so she seems to be building a strawman argument that ignores the actual context of the discussion – which is the first world problem of some famous chefs not being nice in the way that certain patrons of $100/head establishments would like them to be.

I'm not certain what you're getting at here...also, the original version of your edited post is preserved in my answer to it. I stand by my comments.

Looking over Spike's comments, his attitude brings to mind P.T. Barnum's apocryphal comment...

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@ Heather: I may be mistaken, but your comments sound a lot like censorship justified by the popularity of the erstwhile target.

Of course you have the right to opt out. I never said that you didn't. The highlighted phrase smacks of elitism, however, and I would wager drives down participation & conversation on this board.

Also - does that extend to other sorts of behavior that I personally find unacceptable - say in Congress or Wall Street or corporate board rooms? What should I muzzle my opinions because it happens and some people profit by it?

Just be prepared for the world at large not to give a shit........elitism bouncing around in a very specific echo chamber (Sorry, Don). Anything else just becomes the WaPo comment threads.

Censorship? You are free to say whatever you want, and I never said otherwise. Disagreeing with what you say is not censorship.

First they came for the elitists,

and I did not speak out because I was not an elitist.

Then they came for the people who eat only free-range organic chicken,

and I did not speak out because I cannot afford to eat only free-range organic chicken.

Then they came for the vegans,

and I did not speak out because who gives a shit about vegans anyway.

Then they came for a somewhat famous purveyor of mediocre pizzas and sloppy burgers,

and everyone spoke out, because....what was I saying?

Squirrel!

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First they came for the elitists,

and I did not speak out because I was not an elitist.

Then they came for the people who eat only free-range organic chicken,

and I did not speak out because I cannot afford to eat only free-range organic chicken.

Then they came for the vegans,

and I did not speak out because who gives a shit about vegans anyway.

Then they came for a somewhat famous purveyor of mediocre pizzas and sloppy burgers,

and everyone spoke out, because....what was I saying?

Squirrel!

I call Godwin - or close enough :rolleyes:

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When I first read this thread, it interested me in the sense that I agree with Don to a certain degree, as do others in the industry I'm sure. It interested me because there is a actually a difference between the two. One who has been local, has been become integrated into the local culinary community.

The other? I believe I have documented my own contempt, whether deserved or not, in another topic. He has done the opposite. He has created some hard feelings with his own comments.

What I wasn't prepared for is some of the negativity folks have directed at eachother. I remember when the tone of post were less aggressive on a whole. And I'm not talking about Don's passionate ode of appreciation to all who toil in this business, working hard to change the perception of dc as a boring French and steakhouse mecca that it was when I arrived in 1999. Chef's like Jeff Buben, Jeff Tunks, Todd Gray and Jose Andres sending waves of young talented chef out to run their own kitchens, to train the next generation. That is something I think Don should be commended for realizing that that isn't always recognized enough.

I know I seem to be tossing stones it seems, and perhaps I am. I certainly have not been very diplomatic in the past. Perhaps I am becoming mre genteel as I grow older. Perhaps my meds are working better ;-). But I respect Don and his opinion and his defense of the dc culinary scene. A scene that he has worked so hard to promote; promoted at his own cost.

Some people get opportunities and make the most of them. Some get the opportunities and pass or stumble. I think what is important is the integrity of what you do and how you present yourself. No one wants to feel like success others obtain comes because the competition is subpar. Tact is a lost virtue.

What I do have intrest in is what the feelings are on grand expansion plans, within such a small period of time. Feeling and discussions on publics worries of product dilution, fear of over extension, these things I like reading. That's the good reading

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<snip>

What I do have intrest in is what the feelings are on grand expansion plans, within such a small period of time.

This is where I was in post #1.

My answers: Ill advised were real quality and substance the goals. As Jason wrote, for some (maybe most), it's about food first and money second. But clearly not for all. The new Georgetown Mexican outpost may be very successful since, though the market is uncertain, we know it to be very diverse in what is valued.

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This is where I was in post #1.

My answers: Ill advised were real quality and substance the goals. As Jason wrote, for some (maybe most), it's about food first and money second. But clearly not for all. The new Georgetown Mexican outpost may be very successful since, though the market is uncertain, we know it to be very diverse in what is valued.

In regards to expansion, I am under the impression that the timeline for expansion has shrunk a great deal over the past few years. Just as the quick rise to chefdom, so will there be quick expansion. Everything just seems to be sped up these days. Not to speak for other chefs, but I am am pretty sure they see a lot of young folks come on the scene with a sense of "hey, I just graduated from culinary school, I am now a CHEF". I just think the learning curve has shrunk and there is more a sense of instant gratification in said career. I'll also add that this phenomenon is probably not just in the restaurant business, but in most industries, as I hear the same thing from friends (of my age group) in their various jobs. That being said, I can't begrudge these guys for taking advantage of their situation and doing what is best to expand their empire. Will the food suffer? Maybe, maybe not. I think their are plenty of chefs out there with multiple establishments that do it quite well. I guess it depends a lot on your vision, team, etc... It's my assumption, for someone like Mike Isabella, the opportunity in Georgetown presented itself and he jumped on the situation. It is not like it would be difficult for him to get financial backing and move forward rather rapidly (especially in a location that used to be a restaurant). It seems like a smart BUSINESS move to me. Will the food suffer? Only time will tell...

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In regards to expansion, I am under the impression that the timeline for expansion has shrunk a great deal over the past few years. Just as the quick rise to chefdom, so will there be quick expansion. Everything just seems to be sped up these days. Not to speak for other chefs, but I am am pretty sure they see a lot of young folks come on the scene with a sense of "hey, I just graduated from culinary school, I am now a CHEF". I just think the learning curve has shrunk and there is more a sense of instant gratification in said career. I'll also add that this phenomenon is probably not just in the restaurant business, but in most industries, as I hear the same thing from friends (of my age group) in their various jobs.

I can't remember if it was Bourdain or Ruhlman who wrote exactly that in one of their books a few years ago. Most of the people in my company and industry are pretty well seasoned, but Mrs JPW works in an industry characterized by a much younger workforce and reports the same expectation of instant career gratification.
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In regards to expansion, I am under the impression that the timeline for expansion has shrunk a great deal over the past few years. Just as the quick rise to chefdom, so will there be quick expansion. Everything just seems to be sped up these days. Not to speak for other chefs, but I am am pretty sure they see a lot of young folks come on the scene with a sense of "hey, I just graduated from culinary school, I am now a CHEF". I just think the learning curve has shrunk and there is more a sense of instant gratification in said career. I'll also add that this phenomenon is probably not just in the restaurant business, but in most industries, as I hear the same thing from friends (of my age group) in their various jobs. That being said, I can't begrudge these guys for taking advantage of their situation and doing what is best to expand their empire. Will the food suffer? Maybe, maybe not. I think their are plenty of chefs out there with multiple establishments that do it quite well. I guess it depends a lot on your vision, team, etc... It's my assumption, for someone like Mike Isabella, the opportunity in Georgetown presented itself and he jumped on the situation. It is not like it would be difficult for him to get financial backing and move forward rather rapidly (especially in a location that used to be a restaurant). It seems like a smart BUSINESS move to me. Will the food suffer? Only time will tell...

The expansion may also be because the food shows are backing them and want as much exposure for themselves as the chef. They could be a significant force in the expansion and such.

On another note how about reviving the chef chat thread and getting one of the two to be the guest and answer things themselves. I am sure that their PR team would not allow it, but it would be interesting.

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The expansion may also be because the food shows are backing them and want as much exposure for themselves as the chef. They could be a significant force in the expansion and such.

On another note how about reviving the chef chat thread and getting one of the two to be the guest and answer things themselves. I am sure that their PR team would not allow it, but it would be interesting.

Apropos of everything, if people keep throwing money at you to open new restaurants, and the public is clamoring to eat in said restaurants, why the hell wouldn't you? If increasing brand awareness is more of a goal than spreading yourself too thin and potentially devaluing the brand itself, that is.

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Apropos of everything, if people keep throwing money at you to open new restaurants, and the public is clamoring to eat in said restaurants, why the hell wouldn't you? If increasing brand awareness is more of a goal than spreading yourself too thin and potentially devaluing the brand itself, that is.

I'm having a stupid day and couldn't locate the link to the original piece that's quoted when I read that DCist post. In case anyone is having a similar problem, it's here.

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...We're a nation of starf*ckers with no consideration for talent, that's the problem. Everybody wants to feel special. I don't begrudge celebrity chefs recognizing this and cashing in on it. As much as we would like to believe it, this is not a meritocracy.

(insert applause). The overwhelming majority of legitimate(ly) starred chefs of the world have earned their bona fides by quietly maintaining irreproachable standards of class within singular restaurants longer than the dollar-starved Isabelsohns & such have been cooking/interning. The measure of success (muddied with worth and talent) here appears to be gauged in sensationalized gallons of gremlin-multiplying franchises on any coast, hundreds of miles in between and silly superstar reverence for a vocation previously delegated to our grandmothers’ generation when they were housewives without now mandated home-economics inspired tattoos.

Any cook who deems the trade worthy of a dedicated career could learn a humble pie recipe from Michel Bras whose humility should probably be imitated along with his smear/swipe/spoon-drag plating that virtually everyone has used at some point during what they value as their culinary ascent. There are those budding stalwarts who genuinely pursue the craft of cooking and others, eternal contestants, who crave a celebrity inflated title while their name is diluted by anyone whose tastes need to be validated by the great unwashed or internet glitz. Elsewhere, where there is less of a disconnect between savvy consumers and venerated ingredients, and a fierce tradition of pride in quality rather than abundance, the disciplined chefs’ concentration is focused under one awning for the better part of a decade, at least, which better reflects excellence.

Of course vying for perfection is not everyone’s mission and some rightfully prize tangible $$ more than skilled integrity or are finally cashing in on it, deservedly, after 20+ years in the business. First and foremost I am bitterly jealous of the thread namesakes' Styrofoam fame and that they will have 8 storefronts between the 2 of them by 2013 while I’ll have none.

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I am surprised that none of the wiser eminences grises among us have chosen to remind us of the cautionary tales surrounding Maxim's, Il Raddichio, Citronelle, Paolo's, Todd English in toto (and no, I am not accusing him, despite his many and obvious transgressions, of fetishistic Wizard of Oz-themed bestiality), Eric Ripert's Marriott Outlet-Stores, and others, to be sure, while the younger among us supply a suitable Jimmy Cliff soundtrack.

And no, the irony that I may belong somewhere on that list someday is not lost on me

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Of course vying for perfection is not everyone’s mission and some rightfully prize tangible $$ more than skilled integrity or are finally cashing in on it, deservedly, after 20+ years in the business. First and foremost I am bitterly jealous of the thread namesakes' Styrofoam fame and that they will have 8 storefronts between the 2 of them by 2013 while I’ll have none.

Poivrot, someone wrote me a note today that pretty much nailed it: "They're not chefs; they're restaurateurs." If you think of it that way, it's a whole lot easier to swallow, no? No different than that guy singing "Yooou always get your waaay ... at Ourisman Chevrolet!" Or for that matter, Neighborhood Restaurant Group, Passion Food Hospitality, Great American Restaurant Group, or Think Food Group using José Andrés as their pitchman (I honestly don't mean this to be derogatory). It's all just chasing after a pot of money, and has nothing whatsoever to do with skill, talent, or craft. Start thinking of it that way, and you'll be able to sleep at night. I know, I know, they're wearing chef's whites which is what's so bothersome to people like you and me, but at the end of the day, there are a lot of people out there who will do anything for a buck. And that pretty much sums it up.

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