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Wildwood Kitchen, Wildwood Shopping Center in Bethesda - in the old Jean-Michel Space


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Went to Wildwood Kitchen for the first time this evening and liked it a lot. I was meeting my daughter for a 6:30 reservation. She texted that she was late getting out of work, so I took a seat at the bar and ordered a gin martini which was perfectly made. I was the sole patron at the bar at the time, so I think it's safe to say that this is not a happy hour place. I really loved the ambiance -- jazz playing, soft lighting, noise not too loud. It was warm and inviting. I informed the host that my dinner companion was running late and he assured me that they would hold our table.

The menu is not extensive, there are 8 appetizers and 8 entrees listed, as well as Cheese and Charcuterie. The full menu is available at the bar. The menu can be found on their Facebook page; the restaurant's website is under development. We did not sample much of the menu, but what we had was very, very good. We both had the Slow-Braised Border Springs Farm Lamb Meatball with Potato Puree, Harissa and Shaved Rocca ($12) as a starter. This dish was delicious and much larger than we were expecting. It's only one meatball, but it's just slightly smaller than a tennis ball and really well-cooked and seasoned, and the potato puree was silky and well-combined with the other components. For entrees my daughter had the Sea Bream with Ratatouille and Basil Pesto ($21) -- I didn't taste it but she said it was very good. I had the Beef Short Ribs with Root Vegetable Puree and Pearl Onions ($28). I am pretty particular about short ribs and I have to say these were excellent -- perfectly cooked and melt in your mouth consistency. The root vegetables were baby carrots which were perfect and so was the sauce accompaniment. (I'm looking forward to leftovers for lunch tomorrow.)

There were only 3 items on the verbally-delivered dessert menu: tiramisu, something chocolate, and some kind of sorbet/ice cream: in other words, we couldn't really understand what the server was saying beyond the tiramisu. No matter, we were full and not looking for dessert.

There are perhaps a dozen wines by the glass and they appear well-chosen, especially for a MoCo restaurant. We each had a French Pinot Noir which was wonderful. Didn't see the bottled wine list, so can't comment.

Wildwood Kitchen is in its early days and while it's still working out the kinks service-wise, the food we tasted is worthy of a well-established restaurant. While not inexpensive, this place is a gift to the neighborhood and I could easily imagine my husband and I becoming regulars here.

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Get the desserts here. Don't have time to post a full review but we wound up ordering all three desserts and sharing;

Chocolate - decadent

Tiramisu - very creamy and luscious

Sorbet with grapefruit - perfect palette cleanser

I was very happy with service too - I think the small size is going to keep this a hard to get weekend reservation.

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Made a second visit 2 weeks ago on a Friday evening with husband. We both ordered the Grilled Maine Scallop ($14) as a starter and it was very, very good. For entrees he had the Beef Short Ribs that I had loved on my previous visit and he loved them as well. I ordered the Red Snapper en Papillote ($23). Unfortunately, this dish was a disappointment. The fish was mealy and dry and I only ate about a third of it. This time we both ordered dessert and were not disappointed -- I had the Tiramisu which was one of the better versions of this dessert that I've ever had -- just delicious and quite light. Husband had the 'chocolate' dessert which he loved -- I had a taste and found it to be extremely dense and rich.

The server asked how we had liked the food and, not wanting to lie, I told him that the snapper had been a disappointment, mealy and dry, but everything else was wonderful. He came back and told us that it had been removed from the tab. We protested, but they insisted. We would never have requested this, but did appreciate it. (I felt vindicated when I read the WP's First Bite this week and it noted that the red snapper was dry and cottony.) Hopefully, they'll be tweaking this dish or replacing it with something better.

As I noted previously, this place is a gem of a neighborhood restaurant. Husband and I will definitely be regulars here. In fact, I'm planning on lunch with a friend next Friday. It will be interesting to see how lunch compares with dinner.

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Be sure to order a cocktail here - I have been here three times and each time Giancarlo was behind the bar and he is a genius. He is working on having his own infused vodkas which will be ready for drinking in a month or so. He knows the perfect amount of sweet vs. sour vs. flavorings to keep the drink popping and everyone happy.

The Washington Post did say that the bar is not the same when he is not behind the bar (and each time I was there he was there so I cannot comment on his backups).

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Be sure to order a cocktail here - I have been here three times and each time Giancarlo was behind the bar and he is a genius. He is working on having his own infused vodkas which will be ready for drinking in a month or so. He knows the perfect amount of sweet vs. sour vs. flavorings to keep the drink popping and everyone happy.

The Washington Post did say that the bar is not the same when he is not behind the bar (and each time I was there he was there so I cannot comment on his backups).

Actually, I have ordered a cocktail here and you are right, Giancarlo is a true maestro. I ordered a gin martini, so I didn't stretch his repertoire; still, it was meticulously made -- I was sitting at the bar and got to observe the whole process. And, it was the best I've had in a very long time -- considering that I order a gin martini almost every time I go out to a restaurant, he bested a lot of competition.

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They're off to a strong start, and I predict it'll be very successful in this particular location, which should be able to handle the not inexpensive price point. I thought the lamb meatball was outstanding, both in texture and flavor. The puree it's bedded on makes this dish quite rich and weighty, but not so much that you don't want to absolutely clean the plate. Also a surprising winner: the "Kobe" beef burger. Ignore the matter of Kobeness, and dig into a well assembled burger, with the patty correctly medium rare and the brioche bun well-toasted, served cut into two as befits an otherwise messy item. It's not just properly built, but there's also a lot of seasoning complexity going on with this one.

gubeen started with a nicely grilled piece of octopus that vanished too quickly. I had a perfectly good Caesar salad with some sliced hangar steak on top, again cooked to order, and decidedly tender for hangar steak. The Caesar was thoroughly dressed (nb to Porcupine: and betrayed the use of anchovy) and properly chopped. Coffee good. Sorbet (grapefruit and champagne) good.

Slight marks down for having only tall Pilsener glasses for serving beers in; not a single tulip glass to be found in a Wiedmaier place serving Belgian ales?! Also, while service was very pleasant and more complete than average, it was marked by a few too many periods of absence.

The space itself manages to be both formal and bistro-esque at once, in a way that reminds me of Et Voila. The visual design of the main dining room, with its wonderful metal sculpture tree-branch chandelier and a frieze of photoreal forest wallpaper above the wood paneling, is actually so distractingly good that it took me a long time to notice the excessive array of identical air ducts set into the ceiling.

The important thing is that everything we tried was delicious. Wildwood looks to be one of the best additions to the west Bethesda area in years.

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The important thing is that everything we tried was delicious. Wildwood looks to be one of the best additions to the west Bethesda area in years.

My mother-in-law went with a group of friends, and she had nothing good to say about it, which leads me to believe that Dave is absolutely correct.

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My mother-in-law went with a group of friends, and she had nothing good to say about it, which leads me to believe that Dave is absolutely correct.

My in-laws went with friends a week ago and had the exact same to as Porcupine. My father-in-law of late has been especially stingy with praise for expensive places since he more fully retired (he especially trashed Marcel's before Christmas b/c of the expense to volume ratio, which is often his greatest criterion), but he loved Wildwood Kitchen.

They're off to a strong start, and I predict it'll be very successful in this particular location, which should be able to handle the not inexpensive price point. I thought the lamb meatball was outstanding, both in texture and flavor. The puree it's bedded on makes this dish quite rich and weighty, but not so much that you don't want to absolutely clean the plate.

...

The important thing is that everything we tried was delicious. Wildwood looks to be one of the best additions to the west Bethesda area in years.

I went for lunch last week and had the sardines followed by the meatball. The sardines were delicious with no strong flavor (even saltiness) that I reflexively associate with sardines. It's a truly great appetizer b/c it wasn't too filling and it was composed of great ingredients. The lamb meatball was just as Dave described: great flavor and texture. It was moist, not dense, and dinstinctly tasted of lamb, so they've got the meat to bread crumb proportions down perfectly. It's probably the size of a tennis ball on that comfort-food bed that Dave described, so it's pretty filling for an appetizer, which is why I'm glad I chose it as my lunch entree.

The last thing I want to point out was that the service is strong here. My mother-in-law has on multiple occassions raved about the service they had, which to her is more important than the food. I was here at 12:30 on a Thursday afternoon and I think I counted 6 people working the floor of this remarkably small restaurant. That could be hard to maintain in the long run. However, if I had not been a solo diner who was able to grab the last seat at the bar, I would have had to wait for a table. There were a few parties that had to wait 10 minutes for a table. Most of the clientale were of my in-laws demographic, and I think service is pretty important to them, too. Right now they have the business to keep these people busy and employed, and if the restaurant keeps doing things right, I think this will be a long-time win for both the business and its clientale.

Pax,

Brian

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I missed the meatball: I daresay I would have chosen it over the Endive-Fennel Salad, but not over merit. The salad was delicious; I just don't like eating really heavy lunches, and this was even after working out.

Pictorial Time!

Yeah, yeah, I'm a bad parent. (Corpse Reviver #2.)

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I felt chilly, so I got soup.

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Main was the aforementioned Endive-Fennel Salad. Delicious, but probably could have been a little smaller. But then again, I'm picky about that sort of thing.

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Had to take a picture of the bar.

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Before I forget: aces to the staff. Just for lunch, all working hard and being observant. Love it, people!

They seem to be building a righteous cocktail program: I saw lots of infusions going, and got to taste the Winter Spice Bourbon (Makers, with star anise, cinnamon, and ... rosemary?) There's a grapefruit vodka going, an infused tequila, and something else which I regret I can't recall, They had house-made tinctures going, multiple simple syrups and a home tonic. It's fair to say this hasn't been tried outside the Beltway*.

I agree with my brother's assertion that Belgian beer should be served in tulip glasses, however: I know my hood and my neighbors, and that level of detail will be lost upon a great many of them. I view Wildwood Kitchen, and all those who dare to push the envelope, as the frontline soldiers in the education of food. Because I'll say it - diners out here are, by and large, fucking morons. If you know better, this obviously does not apply to you. But with no disrespect intended, isn't it strange that people here would toss their underpants because Chop't Salad just opened?

Cheers.

* - Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. And send me an address,

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It was lost on its way to the school?

Though Dean's explanation trumps anything I could come up with, my rationale was that I wanted the lighter course first to stop my stomach from rumbling but not overfill me and wanted the meatball to feel more like an entree, which it did. Not sure if you were seriously curious or if you were hoping for a response similar to Dean's. If it matters, the waiter asked me which I wanted first so I got what I wanted.

Pax,

Brian

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Though Dean's explanation trumps anything I could come up with, my rationale was that I wanted the lighter course first to stop my stomach from rumbling but not overfill me and wanted the meatball to feel more like an entree, which it did. Not sure if you were seriously curious or if you were hoping for a response similar to Dean's. If it matters, the waiter asked me which I wanted first so I got what I wanted.

Pax,

Brian

Neither; I was making a joke, and was hoping that the question itself was joke enough. :P

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I agree with my brother's assertion that Belgian beer should be served in tulip glasses, however: I know my hood and my neighbors, and that level of detail will be lost upon a great many of them. I view Wildwood Kitchen, and all those who dare to push the envelope, as the frontline soldiers in the education of food. Because I'll say it - diners out here are, by and large, fucking morons. If you know better, this obviously does not apply to you. But with no disrespect intended, isn't it strange that people here would toss their underpants because Chop't Salad just opened?

It's my 'hood too, and I completely agree. This part of Bethesda has got to have the biggest disparity between income and decent dining options of any commercial area in Montgomery county. The very fact that Hamburger Hamlet continues to hang on proves your point admirably. Thanks for the reminder to get to Wildwood soon.

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It's my 'hood too, and I completely agree. This part of Bethesda has got to have the biggest disparity between income and decent dining options of any commercial area in Montgomery county. The very fact that Hamburger Hamlet continues to hang on proves your point admirably. Thanks for the reminder to get to Wildwood soon.

Go, go, go! I hear dinner service is usually packed (shocker) but the lunch crowd doesn't descend until 12:15.

Yes, that bar can really getcha. The double whammy of Maryland's recent liquor tax and MoCo's truly ridiculous alcohol practices really is a frontside kick in the pants. On the other hand, I "needed" to see what Winter-spiced Maker's Mark tasted like. (Smooooooooth.)

I guess I have to look at it this way - it saved me a trip into the City, plus a cab ride back. This will be the first time in history that I will be able to get a handcrafted cocktail and then walk home. Tremendously lucky in this regard.

Cheers!

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More pics from two recent quick-hits:

Grilled Maine scallops, eggplant jam, sun-dried tomato, broken vinaigrette:

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Beet salad, goat cheese:

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Border Springs Farm Lamb Meatball, potato puree, harissa, shaved rocca:

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Crisp Portuguese sardines, caponata, EVOO:

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Edit: I was prepping dinner for the kids while posting this. Scallops are to become gravely wounded for. Beet salad excellent unless you're tired out on the beets-and-goat thing (I felt it could use a little extra smear of goat, but that's picky.)

The meatball is a medium-sized entree unto itself. It is ridiculously lush and rich, with this savory gamey note and this warmth that reminds you of warm nights at home with mom's meatloaf. (Maybe not my mom's, but you get the idea.) And though I love the cocktails, get a glass of red.

Sardines are playing peek-a-boo under the caponata. Oddly, a really good brunch dish!

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Made it for lunch this week and have a bit different take more on the specifics than on the overall view.

As I think most everyone else has already said, the food was at least fine with good seasoning and no problems. The service was excellent in terms of attentiveness more than in knowledge of the menu but, again here, appreciated and better than many. I'd go back if in the area. Might even go periodically if I lived nearby. I don't know north Bethesda as well as others here but easy to believe this is one of the best (if not the best) options in that area as already reported. I can definitely see how Wildwood is appreciated by the local neighborhood where better restaurants at all price levels aren't as available as in-town or in the right MD and VA suburbs.

There is another shoe to drop though not that heavy a one. With no further adieu:

As I enjoyed lunch, I was reminded a bit of how I felt when I realized Mussel Bar wasn't cutting its fries in house. We had some debate about that here on DR at the time. After all, it's a mussel and frite place so they should, argued some, including me. Others defended the practice of using frozen packaged fries by reminding how labor intensive it is to cut fries at high volume levels. Some of those same, cost-saving and efficiency-enhancing practices are in place here.

For me, Wildwood Kitchen (WK), while fine and a perfectly nice venue for a casual or business lunch, is a bit too richly priced for what it is. To be clear, I'm not arguing it's 'too expensive.' With a probably typical $27-33 per person lunch bill pre drinks, tax or tip, the pricing is the same as some of the better in-town, finer-dining spots. My comment about pricing is about value where I'm not sure what Wildwood is offering merits the prices being charged. More simply, while the 'what you get for what you pay' equation maybe be as good as any in and around North Bethesda, I think it's a bit out of whack when compared to the broader area usually used in assessing restaurants here on the board.

Some specifics including one I know will be controversial given the raves above about the sardine app:

I considered starting with a caesar salad and asked about the preparation as dressed greens or with egg, anchovies, etc? I was told the dressing had egg in it but otherwise straightforward so I avoided that. I was in the mood for a great caesar but suspected this one would be more run of the mill. Maybe right. Maybe wrong. I can't say since didn't order it.

Rather, mindful of the great feedback here, I ordered the "fried sardines" starter. I enjoy sardines, know they are a
plentiful fish and assumed the treatment here would be interesting. The flavors were fine with some crispness and a finely diced caper-y caponata. But, for me, the composition was a bit disappointing in three main ways. First, the sardines themselves weren't fried but, rather, probably warmed in a skillet with some oil. Second, they weren't using fresh sardines; just more typical jarred or tinned small filets. Finally, to achieve the crispness, they'd toasted very thin shards of an ordinary baguette and laid those atop the three small sardine fillets. From a presentation perspective (and consistent with rockcreek's photo above), no sardine is visible when set on the table since the shards are much larger and cover the small, thin fillets. This was $10.

I first considered fish for a main but guessed the salmon was farmed and didn't even want to ask about the sea bream (a species that has seen rapidly growing acquaculture). So, wanting to try WK at its best, I ordered the most expensive entree, one of very few on menu with provenance clearly indicated, a Creekstone Farms hangar steak served with roasted fingerling pieces and "garlicky kale." Creekstone, btw, is a private-equity-owned larger scale operator based in the midwest that has grown aggressively in less than 10 years though does seem to take a more humane and environmentally sensitive approach with its largely corn-fed herd. NY Times article here if interested. Served with a red wine reduction type sauce, they brought me a simple and tasty basil garlic aioli for the potatoes when I asked. This was a good dish, cooked as I'd ordered and with good flavor to all components. A reasonable lunch portion, it was $24 with the average entree price probably around $21 or $22 across the menu.

I tried to get a read on the coffee by asking what kind they were using. After being told it was "french press," I asked about the source and then was given the geographic point of origin (Santa Lucia) rather than the roaster/distributor. I then let it drop. Not that important and probably a safe bet it's something decent but not distinctive.

So, again, I enjoyed lunch here and clearly it's popular. Like others above, my sense is that it will do well. But I may be in the minority in saying I wouldn't suggest traveling much to go here. And I think with the current ingredients they're using, 15-20% less on prices would make more sense value wise. Or they might consider using fresher, more interesting ingredients at the current price levels. Those might be strategies to draw more customers from the city or points further afield. More likely, the current value proposition is designed for the underserved North Bethesda neighborhood. Like Muissel Bar, it seems to be quite popular.

I'll try a dinner here at some point. Some of the descriptions and photos upthread do sound more interesting and more worthwhile than my lunch experience. I'd like to think a dinner for two might be around $70 or $80 but will expect that it will more likely run to $100 or higher before drinks/tax/tip.

Robert Wiedmaier has been less consistent for me than other restaurant group operators like Cathal Armstrong, NRG and Jeff Black. Marcels has always been a jewel in DC's fine-dining scene. And I really enjoy both Brabos and the Butcher Block in Old Town. But then this and Mussel Bar seem of a different (not bad) philosophy to me beyond just different targeting for different markets. Then again, both WK and Mussel Bar are Bethesda, clearly a market that Msgr. Wiedmaier understands well.

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While obviously a pretty different take from mine, I post here just to correct an error I made above with the following:

I tried to get a read on the coffee by asking what kind they were using. After being told it was "french press," I asked about the source and then was given the geographic point of origin (Santa Lucia) rather than the roaster/distributor. I then let it drop. Not that important and probably a safe bet it's something decent but not distinctive.

Santa Lucia does refer to at least one coffee farm and several coffee growing properties in Costa Rica, along with other coffee growing areas elsewhere in Latin America. MadCap offers a coffee named for one of the farms. But, in the case of Wildwood Kitchen, Santa Lucia is their (and all Wiedmaier restaurants') provider, a nearly 20-year-old Rockville/Gaithersburg wholesaler sourcing beans from Nicaragua that seem to be roasted in NYC for distribution here and elsewhere in the US. As a wholesaler with a somewhat national footprint and without a retail presence, it's tough to evaluate the coffee other than in restaurants where it's still served. Those seem to be ones that generally have been using it for many years. I've had the coffee in several local restaurants still using it and have generally found it to be ordinary and typical of most restaurant coffee where coffee isn't a big focus. YMMV.

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When we are without our two kids, my wife and I usually scour the DMV for new places to try.  Friday I found myself driving solo on my way from Bethesda to Colesville where we're staying until our renovations are done and totally on a whim I pulled in to the Wildwood shopping center to head to Wildwood Kitchen for only the second time.  I felt as though I were cheating on my wife since she was at my in-laws eating Ledo's Pizza and putting the kids to bed, but I felt as though I had "earned" a decent dinner since I've handled every aspect of the construction process.  After I left even more satisfied than the first time I came, I could only wonder why we this was only my second visit and why my wife has never been.  This place is no more than 2 miles from our house, and the food was excellent.  Really excellent.  Drive-across-town worthy excellent.  I started with wonderfully balanced mixed drink called a  Corpse Reviver #2 that I sipped through most of my courses.  For food I started with an avocado salad with heirloom tomatoes that was a wonderful combination of acid, salt, savory, and sweet.  I followed that with the sardines which were as delicious as the last time I had them.  My last course was a tasty shrimp and grits dish that was quite large and pretty good but I chose to bring half of it home b/c I was curious about dessert and wanted to save a little room.  I'm a sucker for carmel and toffee so I was easily pleased by the sticky toffee pudding that pushed my expanding stomach into discomfort but my mouth said it was worth it.  My only quibble was that I wanted much more than the teaspoon sized dollop of ice cream that came with the caramel drizzled sponge cake.  With tax and tip I walked away $75 poorer for my last second whim, but I don't regret a penny. Not to make a backhanded compliment by any means, but I don't think I've had a finer dinner in Montgomery County before. I got my money's worth and hope to be back much sooner to give them my money more frequently if they execute as well as they did Friday night.  I'll still be tempted to go the small plates approach because I want to keep sampling their skill instead of overloading on a larger entree.  I hope to continue to be surprised that such an excellent place is so close.

Pax,
Brian

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The lamb meatball was just as Dave described:  great flavor and texture.   It was moist, not dense, and dinstinctly tasted of lamb, so they've got the meat to bread crumb proportions down perfectly. It's probably the size of a tennis ball on that comfort-food bed that Dave described, so it's pretty filling for an appetizer, which is why I'm glad I chose it as my lunch entree. 

I had this for my lunch entree the other day.  It really was quite good, plated as described on the menu on a potato puree with harissa, spinach, shaved parmesan, and some crispy onions; all of which provided a nice balance of textures and flavors.  You get two lamb meatballs for the entree.  Score.  The octopus appetizer on special was also quite tasty.  I really do not remember ever having octopus so tender and succulent before.  At $40 per person including tip but no alcohol it was a tad pricey, but I would will definitely revisit this place.  This is a good restaurant.  Parking is a bit of a challenge.

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Really? Isn't there plenty of space in that shopping center?

It is quite bizarre.  I am not sure where everyone is going when they park there.  There are not that many store fronts.  There seems to be plenty of spots, but most were filled at noon.  Think Harrison Street shopping center or Lyon Village in Arlington.

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It is quite bizarre.  I am not sure where everyone is going when they park there.  There are not that many store fronts.  There seems to be plenty of spots, but most were filled at noon.  Think Harrison Street shopping center or Lyon Village in Arlington.

Both of those lots are devils (but I've (almost) never not found a space). Maybe park in front of Balducci's? I guarantee it isn't Geppetto that's causing this. <_<

(I don't want to hijack the conversation from your meal - I've never had anything bad at Wildwood Kitchen, and it sounds like you had pretty much the same experience.)

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Both of those lots are devils (but I've (almost) never not found a space). Maybe park in front of Balducci's? I guarantee it isn't Geppetto that's causing this. <_<

(I don't want to hijack the conversation from your meal - I've never had anything bad at Wildwood Kitchen, and it sounds like you had pretty much the same experience.)

No worries.  My plus two also gave high marks to their meals.

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We went here prior to seeing a screening of the movie Amadeus, accompanied by a live orchestra and choral singers (it was great!)

We started with the octopus  and also braised lamb meatballs dish - both were very good - but rather large portions for appetizers. I'd order both again in the future.  One interesting sidenote was that, when we asked for a cocktail list the server responded that 'they were between seasons' so we could just ask for anything we wanted and they could make it. Odd - I like ordering from a curated list. And honestly, if I asked for the things I wanted and know well, they probably would not and I'd end up going to the bar with my phone for the recipe to show them and just didn't want the hassle. Only minor nit of the night.

For mains. my wife had the grilled hanger steak while I had the chicken - both were very good, but the chicken was the clearly better dish. It is rare to have such a perfectly prepared chicken dish while dining out. It was something I will remember for sure. I would order it again.

We had some good wine as well. The dessert we shared was interesting a yogurty/custardy thing that was a nice way to finish without something overly sweet, Nice.

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