18 replies to this topic

[Joe H]

We have an interesting situation: I decided to use up all of my United miles before retiring and eleven months prior to the departure in late August, booked two seats to Venice, returning a week later. I should mention here that I've sold in Europe for thirty years and, at the time of making the reservation, thought we would go to Verona (including the opera) and Cortina. Because of my business I've been in this part of Italy many times and know my way around it. Exploring Asolo, Bassano and the Italian Alps and its foothills are a real adventure that we have planned on since confirming the tickets. One last visit to Venice-which we first visited almost twenty years ago-was also a type of possible anniversary for us.

But....I am fascinated by Dubrovnik. And Split is almost unknown by Americans. We could still use the same airline tickets, flying into Venice, rent a car and circuitously travel the coast ending up in Dubrovnik. I have an impression that this is one of the most beautiful places on earth but almost unknown by most Americans. I've seen numerous travel videos including the Amazing Race, all of which intrigue me.

Has anyone been?

[Ericandblueboy]

Did you see the recent No Reservation show on Croatia? I don't know where he was but the food lookede good.

[jayandstacey]

Not been but going to Dubrovnik in about 6 weeks. My sense is that Split is largely untouched but that Dubrovnik has a steady steam of day visitors.

I'll report what, if anything, I find... Though maybe you're going before me. Have you found any intriguing suggestions of places to try in Dubrovnik anywhere on the inter-webs?

[Joe H]

I have not seen the No Reservations show but will definitely try to find it. We go in late August so I'm really interested in your thoughts on returning. Thanks, Eric, for this:
"The next big thing is Croatia."

http://www.travelcha...ovnik-nightlife

I should also note that Split has a Roman amphitheatre as large as the one in Rome.

[Joe H]

http://www.bluedanub.../winery/bibich/ is the link for the wine (Bibich) which Tony drinks in the No Reservations episode. I just bought a case of it (shiraz, merlot and cabernet/merlot-four each) from the San Francisco based importer. For anyone reading this they do NOT have anyone representing them in the mid Atantic states. Mark, Joe...? Anyone interested in Croatian wine that Tony Bourdain raved about? I have some personal experience with excellent Moldovan and Slovenian wine and regard them as genuine bargains for the level of quality. I expect these to be similar.

[DonRocks]

We have an interesting situation: I decided to use up all of my United miles before retiring and eleven months prior to the departure in late August, booked two seats to Venice, returning a week later. I should mention here that I've sold in Europe for thirty years and, at the time of making the reservation, thought we would go to Verona (including the opera) and Cortina. Because of my business I've been in this part of Italy many times and know my way around it. Exploring Asolo, Bassano and the Italian Alps and its foothills are a real adventure that we have planned on since confirming the tickets. One last visit to Venice-which we first visited almost twenty years ago-was also a type of possible anniversary for us.

But....I am fascinated by Dubrovnik. And Split is almost unknown by Americans. We could still use the same airline tickets, flying into Venice, rent a car and circuitously travel the coast ending up in Dubrovnik. I have an impression that this is one of the most beautiful places on earth but almost unknown by most Americans. I've seen numerous travel videos including the Amazing Race, all of which intrigue me.

Has anyone been?

I'm 25% Croatian, but I'm also 25% Italian, so I'm ... are you ready for this one? ... "Split" down the middle.

(PS - I swear to God this is true. My mom's parents came over on a boat from Zagreb and Bologna.)

[Mrs. B]

I'm not sure if going to Porec in the early 80's with Waitman (even taking into account the horrid drive through the Julian Alps) or camping in Oregon with the kids counted as the best vacation ever but I will say that the seafood in Croatia did not suck. The nudist camping park was rather interesting too. I thought the granddaughter was much more compelling than the grandmother (so did W-man). Watching people play tennis in nothing but sneakers made me giggle. Seriously. Where are they going to keep their balls?

[DonRocks]

Where are they going to keep their balls?

[Mrs. B]

The ones they hit with racquets

[goldenticket]

I was in Split and Dubrovnik in April 1988, so my impressions are from a very different time - both for me and those places. I think both are absolutely worth seeing, especially if you've already spent time in Venice and that region. My palate wasn't quite as refined back then and my student budget limited my dining options, but I still have some excellent memories. One of them being able to walk into a pastry shop and spend the equivalent of (maybe) a few dollars for an assortment of lovely confections. A few friends and I sat on a bench in the sun and sampled them all - pure decadence at the time The harbor in Split is picturesque, the promenade was bustling, and, as I recall, the water was a beautiful blue.

I do remember eating a lot of grilled meat while in (the then-)Yugoslavia. Even though communication was difficult, the people were helpful and friendly. I can't imagine it would be any different (if not easier) these days.

The Dalmatian coast is stunning and Dubrovnik is like no other place I've ever been. Go - you won't be disappointed!

[Tweaked]

The ones they hit with racquets

Not sure that helps explain the situation...

[Mrs. B]

Not sure that helps explain the situation...

Well, in the old days casual tennis players kept extra balls in their pants (or panties if they were female). If you don't have any clothing on except for shoes where will you keep the extras? Perhaps I'm dating myself?

[jayandstacey]

Well, in the old days casual tennis players kept extra balls in their pants (or panties if they were female). If you don't have any clothing on except for shoes where will you keep the extras? Perhaps I'm dating myself?

I'm afraid so.

[Joe H]

I was in Split and Dubrovnik in April 1988, so my impressions are from a very different time - both for me and those places. I think both are absolutely worth seeing, especially if you've already spent time in Venice and that region. My palate wasn't quite as refined back then and my student budget limited my dining options, but I still have some excellent memories. One of them being able to walk into a pastry shop and spend the equivalent of (maybe) a few dollars for an assortment of lovely confections. A few friends and I sat on a bench in the sun and sampled them all - pure decadence at the time The harbor in Split is picturesque, the promenade was bustling, and, as I recall, the water was a beautiful blue.

I do remember eating a lot of grilled meat while in (the then-)Yugoslavia. Even though communication was difficult, the people were helpful and friendly. I can't imagine it would be any different (if not easier) these days.

The Dalmatian coast is stunning and Dubrovnik is like no other place I've ever been. Go - you won't be disappointed!

Thank you, Goldenticket. Really nice post; I think you captured a moment that we want to experience. You will be toasted...!

[aaronsinger]

A cousin of mine lived for a year in Zagreb, so I went and visited him--March 2009, I think it was. He said that the Croatians had a love for eating in restaurants that looked like caves, and we went to one just outside of downtown Zagreb, in a quiet residential area. Lots and lots of grilled meats and some excellent red wine. I also remember going to a cafe on the main square in Zagreb and having some of the best coffee I have ever had along with a deliciously indulgent slice of cake (my grandfather whose parents came from Vienna would be proud). Unfortunately I did not get to see Croatia outside of Zagreb, but I was pleasantly surprised by the city, as my cousin said that the capital was rather drab and industrial compared to other, smaller cities and the gorgeous Dalmatian coast. We also went out for some pretty good sushi at a Japanese restaurant in Zagreb--so I guess I sampled some of the countries' fresh seafood there.

Just after I left, my cousin and his now-wife rented a car and made the same exact trip you did. And they loved it.

Perhaps the funniest memory of that trip was getting off the plane--walking down a flight of stairs directly on to the tarmac--taking a bus into town, and realizing that I forgot to make plans to meet my cousin. I was used to just calling people on a cell phone back in the states, but had no use of it on my trip to Europe (Zagreb being the meat of the sandwich around several days in Paris on either side). Having disembarked the airport bus at the bus station, I asked at a tourist center the directions into the heart of the town, got completely turned around and wandered around near a busy four-lane highway in a somewhat industrial area, before finding my bearings, going into an internet cafe where I e-mailed my cousin, and I waited around in the main square people-watching before he found me.

[Joe H]

Thank you, aaronsinger. It must have been an incredible adventure that you experienced!!

My wife and I watched the Bachelorette tonight (don't laugh!!). When they were showing the previews of coming weeks several scenes looked like Dubrovnik. I played around on the internet for awhile and, yes, she will have a date in Dubrovnik.

The big deal of this will not be the show; rather it will be a perspective for Dubrovnik that might capture a bit of what my wife and I could experience. Anyway, for anyone reading this, in addition to No Reservations there will also be the Bachelorette as well as about fifteen minutes on the Amazing Race last year (which started all of this for me).

http://www.dubrovnik...?album=11&pos=2

[Joe H]

Well, we are set: the Venice airport to Pula, Croatia for the night then on to Dubrovnik (hotels are as expensive as
Venice-it has been discovered!) for several days, Split (and an island or two for several) then returning to Trieste before flying home. Can't believe we're passing up Venice and Verona for the Dalmatian Coast but somebody has to report back.

For anyone reading this if you also happen to watch the Bachelorette when they end up in Dubrovnik please toast us. We may still be on the road trying to find it...

[ktmoomau]

Hey, so I am planning a trip to Croatia with a probably visit in the following places: Zagreb, Pula, Plitvice National Park, Zadar, Split, Hvar, then Korcula and Orebic on the way to Dubrovnik.  If anyone has any recs on places to stay, sights to see, restaurants, markets, shops for food items- pretty much all the knowledge you possibly have on Croatia, I would love it.

[jayandstacey]

In Dubrovnik, check out the aquarium that's in the city wall down by the water's edge - on the eastern tip of the old city.  It isn't huge but neat to see the fish, (some) in stone tanks at the edge of the Adriatic.  For places to eat, you might try the north side of town, up the sides streets.  I don't have a particular recommendation in Dubrovnik as they are all kind of touristy but the people were nice.  Enjoy