Jump to content

"Jerusalem" Israeli/Palestinian Cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi


Rieux

Recommended Posts

As the Ottolenghi lover I am, I got my pre-ordered copy of his new cookbook "Jerusalem" last week. It is lovely, and the recipes look delicious. The photos are as stunning as those in Plenty, but this book has even more text backstories, which I appreciate.

Sunday I made the hummus, the herb pie (like an Israeli spanikopita), and the kofte. All were very tasty. The hummus was a bit thick, but it was improved with a little water to thin it out. The herb pie was made for a picnic and the crowd devoured it in about ten minutes. The kofte were the best I have ever made, and were easy.

All of this was even more enjoyable since I had to get my car serviced at Mini of Alexandria on Saturday and I took advantage of the wait to hit up the Fair Price International market near Van Dorn St. for authentic ingredients. I think their halal lamb and beef contributed to the success of the kofte.

If you are an Ottolenghi fan I suggest getting the book. It's as good as those in the past, and he seems to have tamed his desire to overload with too much oil or butter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The hummus was a bit thick, but it was improved with a little water to thin it out.

Obviously I don't know how you define thick or how thick the hummus turned out to be...but having been in Jerusalem earlier this year, the hummus over there is much thicker and richer than just about anything you will find in the States (esp. when compared to the mass produced store bought hummus that most Americans are use to...even Sabra,which I consider to be the best of the store brands can't compete). The hummus in Israel is almost a completely different creature.

Anyway, I'm interested in testing out Ottolenghi's recipe and seeing how it compares! Can't wait to get my hands on this cookbook.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before I got a food processor, I always mashed chickpeas w a cheap potato masher and people would ask for my recipe for hummus. What made it so good wasn't the recipe, it was the fact that the beans were cooked from dried (vs. canned) and the texture was neither runny nor perfectly uniform. Okay, maybe Anna Thomas deserves credit, too; she wrote her instructions for making hummus long before it became a supermarket staple.

*********

Thanks for the report, Rieux.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am going to give it one more shot. I have been using soaked dried beans, but was also using a mini-prep food processor and had to mix in two batches. Just got a 9 cup Cuisinart as a wedding gift so I am going to see how it comes out using that!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The cookbook was up for a Piglet at Food52 this year. I just returned the copy I borrowed to the library since it's much in demand.

I have to say I have problems similar to those I experienced with Plenty, though I admit tweaking. For example, the method for cooking the medjara just didn't work for me. Ratio of lentils to rice seemed way off since I ended up having a little rice stuck to my lentils. It would have been better to cook the grains separately. Also, the flour sprinkled on mandoline-sliced onions really did not lead to crispy wisps even though I threw far fewer than recommended into a wide pan with preheated oil. Matter of domestic vs. professional stove? I have to say the lavish amount of onions was spot-on great and unlike many recipes in Plenty, the spice combination was just right and delicious, especially given the fact that I was feeding a diehard vegan.

Pictures beautiful. The unusual combinations of vegetables and fruits that characterize so many of Ottolenghi's recipes also deserve praise. Jerusalem works as a source of inspiration for an experienced cook who just needs help in finding something different to do with what's in the fridge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The falafel recipe works great.

Although next time I'm going to add a touch more of the spices to the mixture. Also, I ran out of time Sunday to fry them up, so I kept the ground up batter in the fridge and fried them last night (approx. 24 hours later) and they still came out great. The recipe calls for 4 minutes of frying, but I found them a touch undercooked and 5 minutes of frying worked better. I also used a mini-prep cuisinart instead of the meat grinder to grind the chickpeas up like the recipe suggests. It made 20.5 falafel balls.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the best hummus I ever had was at Zahav. I wish I can get them here.

The hummus we had at Zahav paled compared to multiple hummus (hummuses? hummi?) we had in Israel. Not even close. I think in Israel they mix in a lot more tahini than anything I've ever tasted in America. As I noted above, it's a completely different creature over there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It would probably be hummousim, the m. plural in Hebrew. Hummous sounds like it would be a masculine noun. If feminine, the plural would be hummousot.

Actually, I think hummus is Arabic in origin, so pluralization might need an expert if it's a broken plural (kitāb -> kutub, etc.).

ETA: I say we go with Latin, so the plural of hummus is hummūs. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sadly, as I mentioned above, I have had limited success with the hummus recipe from Jerusalem. If others succeed, please let me know what you do so I can replicate it! So far, for the time, effort, and result, I have come down on store-bought :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sadly, as I mentioned above, I have had limited success with the hummus recipe from Jerusalem. If others succeed, please let me know what you do so I can replicate it! So far, for the time, effort, and result, I have come down on store-bought :(

I haven't seen that recipe; however, I found somebody online who has a really neat trick to making hummus. First, you put the tahini and lemon juice in a food processor and whiz both together for a couple of minutes. Good Heavens, it really transforms the mixture into something else. Then, you add other stuff, like garlic and spices and little olive oil, and whiz that stuff up, too. Then, you add half your chick peas until smooth and then add the rest of the chick peas. If it is too thick, you just add a TBSP or so of water to thin it out--but I just love the thick, fluffy texture of this far above the supermarket ones.. This makes far better hummus than anything you can buy. My only problem is dragging out the processor (it's heavy) and cleaning up afterwards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My only problem is dragging out the processor (it's heavy) and cleaning up afterwards.

Good news: not necessary. I learned the trick from Anna Thomas, Vegetarian Epicure II in which she provides a separate recipe for tartour sauce. A fork or sturdy, small whisk will do. Yes, that thick, stiff emulsified amalgamation amazes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good news: not necessary. I learned the trick from Anna Thomas, Vegetarian Epicure II in which she provides a separate recipe for tartour sauce. A fork or sturdy, small whisk will do. Yes, that thick, stiff emulsified amalgamation amazes.

And the chick peas get pureed how?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mash 'em. Rustic, but fab.

I'll take your word for it. But, I like my hummus very smooth, thick, and fluffy. There is actually less work in getting out the food processor (and cleaning it up) than doing all this labor by hand. The nice thing about hummus is that it can be made well in advance--not a question of sweating in the kitchen while your friends are drinking wine and otherwise having a fine time without you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made a double batch of the hummus today, following the recipe to the letter except for the addition of 2 more Tbsp of water.  Served drizzled with olive oil and pomegranate seeds...perfect.  It is a thicker and richer hummus than Sabra or Cava, but I count that as a good thing.  Close in taste to what was served at The Hummus Place in NYC, which was helmed by Israelis.  Man...now I'm missing their hummus masabacha and pickles.  Always get extra pickles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I should also add that I've been cooking my way through the book.  Great success with the stuffed eggplant, as well as the turkey meatballs.  The kohlrabi salad was just ok, but the spinach and date one will definitely be a regular in this house.  The chicken and coriander rice was great, but the cooking times/liquids called for were off, and needed quite a bit of adjusting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where were you able to find Arak? I haven't looked for it before, but I'd love to try that dish.

I got it at Schneider's, but MacArthur Beverages also sells it. In the book, they do say that Pernod is an acceptable substitute. But I ran out of Pernod after the last time I made the dish, and Arak was cheaper than Pernod. For pastis, I actually prefer Henri Bardouin.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks! Schneider's is in my hood, so I'll have to make a stop in this week.

I actually have Pernod, and I'm sure it would be fine, but I have a weird compulsion that forces me to find every last ingredient...the harder to track down, the better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anybody tried the maqluba recipe?  I want to make it but can't figure out what pan to use.  If I use my dutch oven, I won't be able to turn it over to flip out the food on a platter, and that's oval rather than round.  The recipe calls for a vessel that is 9.5" x 5".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have a round pottery casserole that can go into the oven? Fry the veg in a frying pan and then layer them into the casserole.

The only thing I have is a souffle dish, which isn't going to be big enough, and it's also got cracks under the glaze and I'm not sure how safe it is to use anymore.  I'm planning to make it today and think I'm going to have to go with either a metal pot that I cook pasta and soups in or an oval Dutch oven.  I have very little that's actually round, except for a very heavy Le Creuset covered dish, but that's not 5 inches deep.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anyone made the chicken with Jerusalem artichoke dish? Thinking of trying it tonight as we have 3 lbs of Jerusalem artichokes from my partner's garden. I do, however wants to sub just breasts for the quartered chicken. Anyone have tights on how id need to adjust cooking time?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Chicken with Jerusalem artichokes was good (we ended up using a quartered chicken), but not great.  The favors were nice and buttery - to the point that my partner asked "how much butter is in here" and was surprised the answer was none.  However, the skin just did not brown and neither did the veggies.  I kept it in about 10 minutes longer and then did a quick broil, but the skin was still flabby.  The jerusalem artichokes were good, but kind of disintegrated during the cooking time.  Not sure I'd make this again over more traditional roast chickens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting.  I made the chicken with arak and clementines a few weeks ago and had a similiar experience.  The chicken just didn't brown like you'd want it to or like it appears in the photo in the book.  I wonder if the chicken should be treated more like you would in a braising recipe.  That is, brown the chicken on the stovetop first before putting it in the oven.  At least in the arak and clementine recipe, I think there's too much liquid in the roasting pan for it really to brown effectively.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting. I haven't had the problem that Rieux and hungry prof describe above. I adjust the oven shelf so that the pan is in the upper third of the oven, and if anything, I have had an issue with the chicken skin over-browning and the clementines getting a bit burnt. Questions to consider: is the baking dish or tray shallow enough that the ingredients are in a single layer with enough of the skin exposed to the oven's heat? A shallow pan also allows more of the liquid to evaporate, although the final step of reducing the pan juices on top of the stove is necessary; Is the oven temp up as high as it needs to be? If your oven isn't hot enough, it isn't the recipe or cooking method's fault that your chicken skin isn't getting brown.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm.  My oven was at 450 and the extra thermometer verified this.  I think I went wrong on two things -- First, I used a Le Creuset roasting pan that might have been a bit crowded and, second, after I arranged the chicken in the pan I poured the marinade over it, rather than on the sides of it (and thought that what I was doing was dumb, right as I was in the middle of it).  That combination of factors probably did me in.

Next time I will also use the convection setting in my oven.  That should help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made the "open kibbeh" tonight.  As it was my first go at the recipe, I made it to the letter.  (OK, I added much more salt than was called for.)  Excellent.  The only thing I may change next time is to add a few chile flakes to give a hint of spice.  I'll admit that I used a mild cubanelle pepper instead of a more potent chile so my toddler could eat it, so maybe if you use a jalepeno spice wouldn't be an issue.

As I suspected, the spinach and date salad is in heavy rotation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just want to chime in about the chicken browning issues others have posted about.  I made the chicken with arak and clementines tonight, and ended up with a dead ringer for the photo in the book.  Fantastic dish.  I used my normal roasting pan in the upper part of the oven, and followed the recipe as written.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made the leg of lamb shawarma for Christmas dinner this year.  I figure, what the hell, Jesus was born in Israel, so it kind of makes sense, right?

Followed the recipe as written, and took the suggestion to add some cubed potatoes to the roasting pan.  Absolutely fantastic.  The lamb turned out wonderfully, and we've been enjoying leftover shawarma sandwiches for the past few days.  The potatoes end up crisping up a bit, and soaked in the lamb jus and rendered fat.  These potatoes will haunt my dreams...that good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made the leg of lamb shawarma for Christmas dinner this year.  I figure, what the hell, Jesus was born in Israel, so it kind of makes sense, right?

Followed the recipe as written, and took the suggestion to add some cubed potatoes to the roasting pan.  Absolutely fantastic.  The lamb turned out wonderfully, and we've been enjoying leftover shawarma sandwiches for the past few days.  The potatoes end up crisping up a bit, and soaked in the lamb jus and rendered fat.  These potatoes will haunt my dreams...that good.

Inspired by this post (and the picture in the book) I made the lamb shawarma yesterday. It was great.  I do question my decision on making a 5.5 lb leg of lamb for 2 people though (both in terms of volume and cost!).  Still, I am happy to have the leftovers, and I now know that this would make a great dinner party dish.  (Used lamb leg from Harvey's in Union market).

Besides seconds on the pita, lamb, salad, etc tonight anyone else have ideas on what to do with several pounds of leftover lamb?  Should I freeze it in the juices?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm a little late to the party, having cooked my first dish from this book last night.  No one has mentioned it upthread, so I wanted to let everyone know that 'Saffron Chicken & Herb Salad' (page 188) was just fantastic.  It makes a great light entree for hot summer evenings.  You make a syrup by simmering orange wedges with honey, saffron, white wine vinegar and water and then I pureed it in my Vitamix -- makes a beautiful, light orange, silky puree that is very aromatic.  You mix this with boneless chicken breasts that have been quickly seared in a grill pan to produce grill marks, and then transferred to a roasting pan to finish in the oven.  After the chicken has cooled somewhat, but is still warm, you tear the breasts into large chunks and mix in the orange puree.  An herb salad is made of fennel, basil, cilantro, mint and a red chile and dressed with a little olive oil.  I served the chicken on a bed of the salad and this made a really nice, light dinner.  The only change I made was to substitute sliced cucumber for the fennel because I'm not a fan of raw fennel.  The orange mixture took longer than the one hour suggested to reduce sufficiently, but otherwise I had no issues with the recipe.

It makes enough puree that you only need half of it for the dish.  I'm planning to use the remainder to dress some fish fillets tonight.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made the 'Spiced Chickpeas & Fresh Vegetable Salad' (p. 56) after returning from the farmers market with all of the vegetable ingredients. The part of this recipe that intrigued me the most was the spiced chickpeas. The salad and vinaigrette are pretty basic and hardly require a recipe -- although the salad itself is really beautiful -- very colorful. The only change I made to the salad was to add some arugula leaves. The chickpeas are spiced with ground cardamom, allspice, and cumin and then sauteed for 2-3 minutes in olive oil.  I was a bit concerned about adding the spiced chickpeas to the salad because I wasn't sure how well the different flavors would combine. Well, as it turns out, it was delicious! The chickpeas really brought another dimension of flavor to the salad and it was subtle, not overwhelming at all. Ottolenghi suggests adding some Greek yogurt as a topping -- I didn't do that this time but might try it in the future. I would definitely make this again.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...