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Peter Chang China Cafe, Szechuan Restaurant Chain Undergoing Expansion


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Wow. Only tried Chef Chang's cuisine for the first time in Richmond last week. I'm a believer. But still not sure about the Chef himself. We were told he was there. But we never did see him. One of our waiters told us past the midway point of the meal that he couldn't come out to say hello because the kitchen was slammed (which, by that point it was...but, earlier, it hadn't been). Man of mystery indeed. Given that one person, however talented, can't be in two places at once, it'll be fascinating to see whether this or Richmond gets his primary focus once past the opening period. And, whichever one sees him less, if that at all impacts food quality. Will very much look forward to trying this out once open.

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Even if and when the Chef moves on from a place, he often leaves well trained people in place. His early venture in Fairfax, China Star, is a good example.

Glad to see he is moving back towards NoVA!

I am sorry to say that the changes at China Star have erased any of Chef Chang's legacy.

I'll tell my friends who have kids in school in the Fredericksburg area to check out his place, though.

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Chang also has locations in Williamsburg and Charlottesville and is contemplating one in downtown Richmond.

Where are his restaurants? Does he still have place in Atlanta? Does he have a place in Williamsburg? Which one does he spend most of his time at? How often is he at Charlottesville?

This website lists only Richmond, Williamsburg, and Charlottesville.

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We were down Hampton Roads way this past weekend and, headed back to DC yesterday, we decided to stop at Peter Chang's again just because...well, we really enjoyed it last week and we could since it was on the way. :P

We tried to get the famed Chairman Mao pork that he did for the Beard House dinner last year but wasn't to be. So, we ended up ordering a number of dishes that we had at Koolpaw's dinner.

As best we could tell, everything was even better than the previous week. Maybe it was because we were just two so the cooked-to-order quantities were smaller? Mother-in-law (called "grandmothers" on the menu) was reminiscent of the bad sweet/sour pork we all grew up with in this country but, amazingly, delicious with more sophisticated flavors and plumper, fresh pork. Likewise on the bamboo fish. Our order came out hot, crispy, light and with wonderful, dish-enhancing heat. Soup dumplings were as good as remembered from the prior week but even hotter. These are definitely a better rendition than those at Shanghai Taste but the latter are worthwhile if you're not in the mood to drive to Richmond. We really enjoyed spring pea shoots, some soup and five spice beef as well. I'd go as far to say this is better Chinese food than any we have in the immediate DC area...and we have a few very good ones with Joe's and the like.

The place was absolutely packed last night. We arrived at around 5:30 and got the last table. The entire time we were there, the small waiting area and lobby between it and the exit to the outside were packed with people waiting an hour and more for tables. Really an amazing crowd. If they follow the same no reservations policy in Frederick, it'll be smart to get there early.

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Four of us are making a foray into southern Virginia next week. Since we will pass by Richmond we are taking the opportunity to stop for lunch at Peter Chang's China Cafe. I have never eaten at any of his restaurants so would love suggestions for what to order. What do you all think is particularly good, iconic, special, not-to-be-missed?

Even without help, we managed to make some good choices. For appetizers, we tried steamed dumplings, scallion bubble pancake and coriander fish rolls. Dumplings were fine, the bubble pancake was unique and fun. The fish were the standout . I've never had anything like them before and they were fabulous - crispy and spicy and delicious. Oh yes, and the dry-fried eggplant which we all loved - spicy and crisp on the outside and soft in the middle. Also ordered Bamboo Fish, Szechuan Double Cooked Pork and Basil Shrimp. Bamboo Fish was sensational - perfectly fried nuggets coated with a crispy batter flavored with curry and other spices. Double Cooked Pork was tasty but really very greasy. The shrimp in the Basil Shrimp were excellent - very fresh with a wonderful snap.

Peter Chang came out into the dining room so we got to say hello and of course extoll his cooking. We arrived at 1:15 (had reserved several days ahead). There were many diners but it was not full and pretty much cleared out by the time we left. We all loved it.

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The Fredericksburg China Cafe is opening on May 9 or May 10. (This article dated yesterday says Peter Chang is opening the Fredericksburg location on Friday - is that next Fri, May 10? I called the Richmond location to ask if the Fredericksburg location is open, and the person answering the phone said it's not open yet but opening on May 9. Definitely call and confirm it's open before driving down.)

The address is 1771 Carl D. Silver Parkway, Fredericksburg, in the Central Park shopping center.

Some interesting info from the article:

...Chang will spend most of his time at the Fredericksburg location during its initial months, said business partner Stone Shi, who went to college with Chang in China...

...Chang plans future locations in Virginia Beach, Northern Virginia and downtown Richmond next, and within a decade he hopes to make it a national brand.

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Follow-up to my post above ^

I called the Fredericksburg location today to confirm that they opened, and a staff person said that they opened yesterday. I asked about their hours, and he said they're open everyday, and open today from 11am-10pm, but no lunch specials today. I didn't ask for more information about the lunch special schedule.

Here's their phone number: 540-786-8988. (I couldn't find the phone # on the internet so I did the old fashioned thing and called Information.) If you're making a special trip, still a good idea to call on the day you're driving to confirm it will be open as expected.

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Hopefully when the show airs, he directs people to the Fredericksburg location so I can still walk in and get a table.

Fish w special sauce at Peter Chang might be best plate of food in America. Discuss #food #travel https://vine.co/v/hZdKt6BABtZ

Supposedly this isn't for Bizarre Foods, but a new show he's going to have.

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So, dropped into the Richmond location the other day with a crew of post-adolescent degenerates and I confess, while I really liked the place -- better than anything I've had in DC in a while, even Joe's Noodle, where I'd eaten the night before -- I was un-transported. Scallion Bubble Pancake, Dry Fry Eggplant, Hot and Numbing Dried Beef, Bamboo Fish, Double Cooked Pork, a couple other dishes. All well-prepared, properly spiced, using fine ingredients and quite tasty. And yet, seemingly lacking the sort of exotic nuance I'd been led to expect. Is it me?

Again, quite a good meal, but perhaps short of the hype.

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So, dropped into the Richmond location the other day with a crew of post-adolescent degenerates and I confess, while I really liked the place -- better than anything I've had in DC in a while, even Joe's Noodle, where I'd eaten the night before -- I was un-transported. Scallion Bubble Pancake, Dry Fry Eggplant, Hot and Numbing Dried Beef, Bamboo Fish, Double Cooked Pork, a couple other dishes. All well-prepared, properly spiced, using fine ingredients and quite tasty. And yet, seemingly lacking the sort of exotic nuance I'd been led to expect. Is it me?

Again, quite a good meal, but perhaps short of the hype.

You didn't address the all-important question: was Chang in the kitchen? I've had Chang meals that bowled me over; I've had other Chang meals (even when he was there) that sound more like what you describe - very good, but not superlative. And I suspect it all depends - even though restaurateurs don't want to hear this - on whether he's active in the kitchen or not (the biggest pile of bullshit I hear on a regular basis is the "knowledgable restaurateur or diner" wagging their finger and saying, "Oh, you *really* believe he's back there cooking your fish? Do you really believe that's what happens?") Yes, you blathering idiots, it actually sometimes *does* happen, and when it does, it can make a huge difference. How do I know this? I've been told countless times by people who actually do the cooking. Example #1 of 500: "Yeah, when I take a three-day weekend, I come back and the sauces are all wrong." - Scott Bryan. Ask any Chef de Cuisine - not "Executive Chef"; Chef de Cuisine - how valuable a good Sous Chef is. Sorry, Charles, I didn't mean to go off on a rant.

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You didn't address the all-important question: was Chang in the kitchen? I've had Chang meals that bowled me over; I've had other Chang meals (even when he was there) that sound more like what you describe - very good, but not superlative. And I suspect it all depends - even though restaurateurs don't want to hear this - on whether he's active in the kitchen or not (the biggest pile of bullshit I hear on a regular basis is the "knowledgable restaurateur or diner" wagging their finger and saying, "Oh, you *really* believe he's back there cooking your fish? Do you really believe that's what happens?") Yes, you blathering idiots, it actually sometimes *does* happen, and when it does, it can make a huge difference. How do I know this? I've been told countless times by people who actually do the cooking. Example: "Yeah, when I take a three-day weekend, I come back and the sauces are all wrong." - Scott Bryan. Ask any Chef de Cuisine - not "Executive Chef"; Chef de Cuisine - how valuable a good Sous Chef is. Sorry, Charles, I didn't mean to go off on a rant.

I arrived in Richmond Saturday and can report he was not there, but in Fredericksburg, where Gen Lee (his business partner) tells me he is now spending most of his time getting that new location under way. He came back Sunday specifically for the Zimmern taping. I had an order of the dry-fried eggplant, and while good it was like other dishes of his made by others; not the same as when he is in the kitchen.

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You didn't address the all-important question: was Chang in the kitchen? I've had Chang meals that bowled me over; I've had other Chang meals (even when he was there) that sound more like what you describe - very good, but not superlative. And I suspect it all depends - even though restaurateurs don't want to hear this - on whether he's active in the kitchen or not (the biggest pile of bullshit I hear on a regular basis is the "knowledgable restaurateur or diner" wagging their finger and saying, "Oh, you *really* believe he's back there cooking your fish? Do you really believe that's what happens?") Yes, you blathering idiots, it actually sometimes *does* happen, and when it does, it can make a huge difference. How do I know this? I've been told countless times by people who actually do the cooking. Example #1 of 500: "Yeah, when I take a three-day weekend, I come back and the sauces are all wrong." - Scott Bryan. Ask any Chef de Cuisine - not "Executive Chef"; Chef de Cuisine - how valuable a good Sous Chef is. Sorry, Charles, I didn't mean to go off on a rant.

I thought we at Donrockwell.com violently rejected the notion that the Superstar Chef had to be in the kitchen, thus freeing Jose, Tommy K., Buben all those chefs from New York opening DC outposts etc. to run their own restaurant empires without quality falling off. Or maybe that was the old eGullet crew.

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I thought we at Donrockwell.com violently rejected the notion that the Superstar Chef had to be in the kitchen, thus freeing Jose, Tommy K., Buben all those chefs from New York opening DC outposts etc. to run their own restaurant empires without quality falling off. Or maybe that was the old eGullet crew.

Yeah, I obviously had my megaphone out and wasn't talking to anyone in particular. Thanks for pointing out the obvious: that there's *at least* a 2 in 3 chance that going to a random Peter Chang Cafe isn't going to get you Peter Chang.

Refer to the recent Curry Mantra 2 exchange, in which I feel I took a small loss of credibility, for Example #501.

I arrived in Richmond Saturday and can report he was not there, but in Fredericksburg, where Gen Lee tells me he is now spending most of his time getting the new location there under way. He came back Sunday specifically for the Zimmern taping.

Example #502. :)

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So, dropped into the Richmond location the other day with a crew of post-adolescent degenerates and I confess, while I really liked the place -- better than anything I've had in DC in a while, even Joe's Noodle, where I'd eaten the night before -- I was un-transported. Scallion Bubble Pancake, Dry Fry Eggplant, Hot and Numbing Dried Beef, Bamboo Fish, Double Cooked Pork, a couple other dishes. All well-prepared, properly spiced, using fine ingredients and quite tasty. And yet, seemingly lacking the sort of exotic nuance I'd been led to expect. Is it me?

Again, quite a good meal, but perhaps short of the hype.

You didn't address the all-important question: was Chang in the kitchen? ...
I thought we at Donrockwell.com violently rejected the notion that the Superstar Chef had to be in the kitchen, thus freeing Jose, Tommy K., Buben all those chefs from New York opening DC outposts etc. to run their own restaurant empires without quality falling off. Or maybe that was the old eGullet crew.

I was disappointed at the Richmond location a month or so ago. Didn't post on it and now can't remember enough to support why in terms of the dishes but I remember very distinctly being surprised since I'd loved my previous visits there (mostly documented here upthread). We had some of the same dishes I'd always really enjoyed in the past but they were not the same. I didn't ask if PC was there but have to assume he was not.

Not sure about any dr.com "...notion...rejected..." or otherwise about famous chefs but, perhaps adding to the string of the blindingly obvious, some restauranteurs can grow small empires better than others. In my own experience, those that do it well beyond 2 locations are fairly rare. Furstenberg is right about that. I'm looking forward to trying Fredericksburg (if I can somehow confirm whether PC is there when I do) but that one off experience in Richmond drives a bit of concern for me. Philosophical platitude #734: Being a great chef requires a fundamentally different set of skills from being a great business person who knows how to market, hire great people, train and retain those people, ensure consistency and manage all things financial.

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Yeah, I obviously had my megaphone out and wasn't talking to anyone in particular. Thanks for pointing out the obvious: that there's *at least* a 2 in 3 chance that going to a random Peter Chang Cafe isn't going to get you Peter Chang.

Refer to the recent Curry Mantra 2 exchange, in which I feel I took a small loss of credibility, for Example #501.

Example #502. :)

Not sure about any dr.com "...notion...rejected..." or otherwise about famous chefs but, perhaps adding to the string of the blindingly obvious, some restauranteurs can grow small empires better than others. In my own experience, those that do it well beyond 2 locations are fairly rare. Furstenberg is right about that. I'm looking forward to trying Fredericksburg (if I can somehow confirm whether PC is there when I do) but that one off experience in Richmond drives a bit of concern for me. Philosophical platitude #734: Being a great chef requires a fundamentally different set of skills from being a great business person who knows how to market, hire great people, train and retain those people, ensure consistency and manage all things financial.

I was about to say much the same. Big name guys like, say, Andres and Robuchon and many others, often have lots of financing and sophisticated consulting help that, among other things, helps them rigorously train staff, set up management structures, and closely control things from afar. They will often be able to turn out a product pretty close to what they would do themselves with their own hands. A guy like Chang has none of that, and the quality of the food probably shows his absence when he's not there more than the big name guys.

It may not be limited to Chang. I recently was fortunate enough to dine at Alinea. It was great, no doubt, but not as exalted as I expected. Zimmern and I had a discussion about this during our lunch -- he feels Achatz is perhaps the best chef in America, but I said that, for a final meal, I might go with Chang. In thinking back, I recall Achatz wasn't in the kitchen the evening we were there -- he was over at Next. So who knows? Clearly it's best if the master himself in on premises, but realistically that doesn't always happen -- these guys want to expand and make money, and who can blame them.

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I was about to say much the same. Big name guys like, say, Andres and Robuchon and many others, often have lots of financing and sophisticated consulting help that, among other things, helps them rigorously train staff, set up management structures, and closely control things from afar. They will often be able to turn out a product pretty close to what they would do themselves with their own hands.

This is simply not true. Also, please do *not* mention Andrés and Robuchon in the same sentence.

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I was about to say much the same. Big name guys like, say, Andres and Robuchon and many others, often have lots of financing and sophisticated consulting help that, among other things, helps them rigorously train staff, set up management structures, and closely control things from afar. They will often be able to turn out a product pretty close to what they would do themselves with their own hands. A guy like Chang has none of that, and the quality of the food probably shows his absence when he's not there more than the big name guys.

It may not be limited to Chang. I recently was fortunate enough to dine at Alinea. It was great, no doubt, but not as exalted as I expected. Zimmern and I had a discussion about this during our lunch -- he feels Achatz is perhaps the best chef in America, but I said that, for a final meal, I might go with Chang. In thinking back, I recall Achatz wasn't in the kitchen the evening we were there -- he was over at Next. So who knows? Clearly it's best if the master himself in on premises, but realistically that doesn't always happen -- these guys want to expand and make money, and who can blame them.

Yep. Exactly. I'll even go one step further and say this is the biggest reason, by a huge margin, why the restaurant failure rate is so high.

Whether a single location or a budding empire, some chefs realize their skills are culinary and will partner with people who complement (not 'compliment' :-)) them with strong business savvy. Others don't, believing if they can cook, they can surely just figure the rest of it out along the way.

Nothing could be further from reality. It's as laughable a notion as a business wonk thinking he can whip up a transcendant meal by following a recipe while watching a ball game. And, your famous chef examples, Andres and Robuchon, notwithstanding, forming a productive and effective partnership has much less to do with resources/cash and much more to do with ignorance or hubris.

It's saddening to see the same mistake made over and over and over again.

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I ate too much fried food at the Fredericksburg location the other day.  Scallion bubble pancakes were slightly greasy but fun, with a curry sauce on the side.  The bamboo fish was good too, but the fish itself was undistingugished, reminding me of a frozen filet rather than something they battered and fried in-house.  However, the mapo tofu was still the best I've ever had. It was rich and a little funky with the addition of fermented black beans to the usual recipe.  Most mapo tofus are lighter in color and taste; this one is darker and has a little earthiness.  I make mapo tofu at home frequently, and this is better than what I make.

We also had the crunchy fried pork belly, which is lightly battered thin slices of pork belly deep fried and served in a bamboo cone with the chiles and coriander and green onions, similar to the same mix that goes with the bamboo fish.  Because of the batter treatment, you never knew if you were biting into a fattier piece or a meatier piece.  The difference in textures I found a bit disconcerting.  It was tasty and naughty, but I don't think I'll get that again.

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We have eaten twice at the F-burg place.  First time, I asked if the fried fish and fried eggplant could be prepared gluten-free.  The person taking the order informed me that the usual flour has a small amount of wheat but mostly rice flour.  I asked for rice flour only, and this was done.  Still delicious.

The second time I asked a different server for "wheat free" but did not specify "gluten free" and, while the eggplant preparation was obviously all rice flour, the fish preparation was obviously not.  So you can get it gluten free but be specific.

The menu is not as adventurous as the original China Star but better than most places in the DC metro area.  I was disappointed that you can't get a big variety of seasonal vegetables as other Chinese restaurants that cater to Chinese clientele.  They have green beans and Shanghai bok choy.  I like to order vegetables for the table to balance out the heat of the peppers.

I like to rendezvous in F-burg with younger son, who drives up from Richmond.  If the traffic is good (which is rare) we can meet at the Barnes & Noble at about the same time.  If not, Barnes & Noble is a good place to hang out.  Then we drive the short distance to Peter Chang's for a good, but not overwhelming, meal.

Note to people who are not familiar with the drive, Route 1 is a good alternative but avoid the bridge at Falmouth at all costs.  Bail out of Rt 1 at Business Route 17.

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Hopefully when the show airs, he directs people to the Fredericksburg location so I can still walk in and get a table.

Fish w special sauce at Peter Chang might be best plate of food in America. Discuss #food #travel https://vine.co/v/hZdKt6BABtZ 

Supposedly this isn't for Bizarre Foods, but a new show he's going to have.

I had the Fish with Special Sauce at the Fredericksburg location last Saturday.  it is an awesome dish.

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Note to people who are not familiar with the drive, Route 1 is a good alternative but avoid the bridge at Falmouth at all costs.  Bail out of Rt 1 at Business Route 17.

I live in F-burg, it actually really depends on the time of day relative to traffic.  If 95 is backed up taking 17 to 1 is actually a good way to go.

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Can you share your Mapo tofu recipe?  I've been looking for a good one.

I've been using Fuchsia Dunlop's recipe from her cookbook Land of Plenty.  However, I found that she's got a new vegetarian recipe that adds ginger and garlic to the recipe.

Original Recipe: http://uktv.co.uk/food/recipe/aid/514986

New Vegetarian Recipe:  http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2012/jun/14/pock-marked-old-woman-s-tofu-recipe

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I led a family group of six to Peter Chang's in Fredericksburg today, and it was very good. It was easily one of the best Chinese feasts I've ever had, and Peter Chang wasn't in the kitchen today. I can imagine that the dishes we enjoyed today might even be slightly better when he's watching the wok.

We ordered more than enough, because I wanted to try a lot of dishes and I also wanted to have leftovers for tomorrow. I ordered all of steamed dumplings, scallion bubble pancake, cilantro fish rolls, bamboo fish, fish with special sauce, dry fried eggplant, a cold spicy tofu skin dish, and mapo tofu. My nephew added duck in stone pot, and I later added beef in Szechuan chili sauce hot pot. We sort of created our own tasting menu, and frankly, it was about as good as any tasting menu I've enjoyed.

There's no need to go into great detail on each of these -- they were all sensational. There might have been a standout or two because of the uniqueness to all of us, like the scallion bubble pancake, the tofu skin dish and the dry fried eggplant, but I would gladly order any of these dishes again and again, and I certainly had my eyes on many other dishes on the menu.

(Note to WaPo's Candy Sagon when she sits in for Tom Sietsema -- this is the kind of Virginia restuarant you should be reviewing instead of all the uninteresting restaurants that nobody will ever be inclined to visit after your vapid reviews, all of which receive a 2-star rating from you.)

(Note to Don Rocks: This restaurant is under "Multiple Locations" when it should be highlighted atop the Fredericksburg listings? Really...?)

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From Todd Kliman, Washingtonian Online, Tuesday December 24 , 11:00 AM

Speaking of which: I had the most disappointing meal I have ever had at a Peter Chang restaurant recently. It was the Richmond location. Nothing was stellar. Dishes were hot, and sometimes hot and numbing, but they lacked the complexity and depth of his best cooking. Frying was heavy-handed. The ma-po tofu lacked body and punch.

An aberration? The chef not in the kitchen?

I don't think so, I hate to say. I had four dishes, and they appeared to have been simplified to appeal to a mass audience.

There are five restaurants in the Chang empire, now, with the opening, a couple of weeks ago, of a location in Virginia Beach. Finding talent to fill all those kitchens can't be easy, and people are necessarily going to be stretched thin. The menu in Richmond is now the same as the one in Frederick, which, when I ate there earlier this Spring, struck me as a simplified version of the old Richmond menu. My guess is that the restaurants have gone in for a certain standardization, to make things easier on the kitchens. This is a markedly smaller than before, and missing many items that I had come to love. It's a real shame.

What's up with Peter Chang? I don't know. While some chefs over share, with Peter Chang we are left to collect our own observations, and arrive at our own conclusions.

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In 1980 I literally lost 142 pounds on a diet over a year's time and with a friend took a three week trip around the U. S. to see how much I could gain back.

Actually, that wasn't the purpose but I gained 15 or so pounds on the trip and learned that losing weight was only the start.  A lifestyle change, exercise (still walk 25+ miles a week after 30+ years) and diet are essential.  Anyway, we stopped in Houston for three nights at the original Ninfa's on Navigation Boulevard where Mama Ninfa herself was in the kitchen.  The best Tex Mex I had ever had at the time; maybe some of it is still the best.  After Houston we went to New Orleans and a close friend of mine who I knew from high school had moved to NOLA.  His next door neighbor was a waittress at K-Paul's which had only been open a few months then.  Because of the friend I met Paul Prudhomme.  When he heard that I had lost 142 pounds and celebrated by eaten my way around the U. S. with three stops at Ninfa's he literally pulled up a seat.  Paul had just returned from Houston and he had two meals there and thought it was the best Tex Mex that he had up to that time.

We had a bond.

The next time I returned with my travelling partner, friend who had moved from D. C. and several others and Chef Paul literally gave us a taste of every single dish he had on the menu.  And a couple of others including coconut cake which he is now legendary for but at the time it was just an occasional special.

One of the best experiences I have ever had.  Certainly the most caloric.

I've thought about this many times because Mama Ninfa branched out and, at one point, had restaurants in Dallas and St. Petersburg-neither of which even began to approach the excellence of the navigation Blvd. original.

As for Peter Chang:  there is a lesson to be learned.  When a chef is at the absolute top of his or her game-go.  Go!  Rarely does anything last.  Red Hen is special right now as is Rose's Luxury; Roberto's Four when he is able to do it.  The Ashby Inn was superb when Tarver was there.  I've raved endlessly about Chef Vola's in Atlantic City but one day this place is going to change.  We've been four times this year and everytime it is extraordinary-simply the best Italian-American restaurant in the U. S.  Also incredible character in the basement of 100 year old frame house.  Right now it is on top.

An alert:  there is going to be a new place in Staunton, VA which will attract a great deal of attention as well as roundtrip drives from many of us (including ourselves) to eat there when it openes.  Chef Ian Boden, who origiinally moved from the Staunton Standard Grocery to Charlottesville Glas Haus Kitchen (and I think three stars from Tom) is now back in Staunton working on a new restaurant.

He is gifted, knowledgeable and obsessed.

When he opens he will have a following similar to Peter Chang.  He's actually already on his way with the relatively brief stay at Glas haus.   Someone to definitely watch.  As the opening of the former husband and wife chef and pastry chef from Chilhowie's Towne House Grille who are settling in Georgetown.  For both of these go when they open.  Hopefully the window for their excellence will be open for a long while but if it isn't there should be a memory to find.

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I am now turning this into a total thread highjack, but I have to chime in on Ninfa's in Houston in the early 80's. Never went to Navigation Boulevard (at least I don't think so), but a downtown location (maybe McKinney?) was cranking it out in 1981-82--Tacos al Carbon like I will never have them again.  Within about a year of that, a slight decline that probably has never been completely corrected.

The branching out nearly always seems to bring about a dilution of the original.

Joe, congrats on losing that 142 pounds...that could not have been easy while trying to wine and dine your customers!

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I am now turning this into a total thread highjack, but I have to chime in on Ninfa's in Houston in the early 80's. Never went to Navigation Boulevard (at least I don't think so), but a downtown location (maybe McKinney?) was cranking it out in 1981-82--Tacos al Carbon like I will never have them again.  Within about a year of that, a slight decline that probably has never been completely corrected.

The branching out nearly always seems to bring about a dilution of the original.

Joe, congrats on losing that 142 pounds...that could not have been easy while trying to wine and dine your customers!

I've kept almost all of my weight off from walking which I still do.  In fact because of the weather and the mobs at Tysons I literally walked both of the Dulles parking garages on Christmas Eve, totalling three miles.  Cost me $12.00 to do it but...I did it.

I still have the Ninfa's menu along with the K-Paul's menus from 1980.  Navigation Blvd. was her original and it was located near the ship canal, not sure how far from near downtown.  I heard about it at the time because, I think, Newsweek and a Houston magazine (Houston City?) had raved about it.  There were no reservations and you had to stand in line to get in.  A long line but we'd get there really early.  I hadn't started in my industry quite yet so this was just a trip around the country partly to ride coasters (I go back to the start of the roller coaster club in '78) and partly to eat.  Incredible food on that trip:  Archibald's and Dreamland Drive In in Tuscaloosa, McClard's in Hot Springs, AK, Sonny Bryan's in Dallas, Roundezvous in Memphis, Loveless Cafe in Nashville, there was a pie shop in DeValles Bluff, AK.  I did a great deal of research before the trip-there wasn't an internet but every city had a city magazine or something like Texas monthly and I holed up in libraries and/or sent away for the issues that featured "Best of" which they all did.  I'd also look in what were called Reader's Guides which would have topics about restaurants, bbq joints, etc. and find out places that way.  Roadfood hadn't come out yet-in fact, immodestly, I am credited in Jane and Michael Stern's second book for the Dreamland Drive In and mentioned for a couple of other places that I wrote them about.  Years later when I was into really heavy travel and they were on their third or fourth book I had eaten at more than half of the places in it.  But the research was a real adventure in and of itself and I got a lot of vicarious pleasure from it.  Needless to say I also obsessed with food while dieting and used a philosophy that if I was going to break the diet it would "have to be worth it."  Researching America's best bbq 900, 1,200 or more miles away from home helped keep me away from D. C. area places because I thought "I'll wait" and then I'll break the hell out of the diet...in style.

I did.

In fact so much so that I stopped in my first Shepler's in Dallas specifically to buy a couple of pairs of jeans since I had outgrown the ones I started the trip wearing.

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Friends,

When a restaurant becomes a chain, don't you see?

Please tell me that after almost nine years, you see.

Not exactly a chain, but definitely dumbed down.  Whatever magic there was, is gone.

And there WAS magic.  I remember it well.  Sorry, Escoffier, I am still stuck on Memory Lane.  I can't help thinking about the dipping sauce for the steamed eggplant his wife used to make.  A little bit of toasted sesame oil, a little bit of black sesame paste, a little bit of star anise, I don't know what else, if I could taste it again I would continue to try to replicate it, but how many years has it been since they cooked at China Star?  Don says nine?  Can it really be nine?

They still make the bamboo fish and the etherial scallion bubble pancakes about the same as they ever did.  Whoever is the line cook, they still get that right.  But no more magic.

It's perfectly decent food, though, and how many Chinese restaurants in America can you say that about with a straight face?  Peter Chang in Fredericksburg is probably the best restaurant in Fredericksburg, and that's actually not faint praise.

My stepmother is from Guangzou, and she's a fairly decent cook.  She cooks plain food simply, and well.  Joe H would not travel a thousand miles to eat her food, but when I eat it, I get a sense of what it really means to cook Chinese food.  It's very different from the way I cook, and yet it's very similar.  I would never put glop on my food, and I would rather never eat at a place that serves glop.  You know what I mean, day glow colors, sweet and sour abhorrences, heavily breaded pieces of unmentionable meat.  Don't.  Just . . . . don't.

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Ilaine, I completely agree with you.  I've watched the amazing touches (yes, the magic) disappear.  Peter Chang is slowly morphing into P.J. Chang (and we're worse off for the loss).  If Grover and I want good Szechuan now, we go to Hong Kong Palace.  True there is Americanized Chinese on the menu, but there are more than enough good, authentic dishes to make the trip worthwhile.

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Ilaine, I completely agree with you.  I've watched the amazing touches (yes, the magic) disappear.  Peter Chang is slowly morphing into P.J. Chang (and we're worse off for the loss).  If Grover and I want good Szechuan now, we go to Hong Kong Palace.  True there is Americanized Chinese on the menu, but there are more than enough good, authentic dishes to make the trip worthwhile.

Never heard of P. J. Chang.  Is that some Chinese guy who cooks and sleeps in the same clothes, or perhaps a faux Chinese chain started by Paul Jemming?  But no matter.

Peter himself is still himself, and I see no evidence he himself is morphing into anything -- the same magic is still there.  But like any great practitioner of any art, he is unique and can't be cloned; at best he can be roughly approximated, but of course it's not the same.    If one wants to savor his magic, one needs to find him (and Lisa), not one of his clones.   Call ahead.

Every great chef these days wants to cash in, and nearly all of them are.  The list of names is long and we can all go down it.  So are we to sit at our computers and suggest this is wrong, that these guys should remain stuck in their single kitchens with the limited income that flows just so our tastebuds can continue to be pleased at our convenience?  Sorry, not gonna happen.  Everybody has the right the maximize his income.  Chang is no different from the others, and we should expect nothing different.  However, unlike say Batali or many others, at least wherever he (and Lisa) are actually located at any particular time, the original magic can still be had.

The purpose of boards like this is to keep up with what's going on.  Restaurants and chefs all pretty much run the same predictable life cycle.  They come, they go.  There's always something new and good.  Nothing lasts forever, and talking as if it will, could, or should makes no sense to me.

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Yes John, I agree... When Peter cooks, it's amazing.  Unfortunately, Peter isn't in all 3000 restaurants he now has his name on.  Ever hear of "cheapening the brand"?  I'm all for Peter making all the money he wants, I've donated my share and I certainly don't begrudge giving him any of it.  However, that has nothing to do with the dumbing down the menu at all of those restaurants. It's the fact that no matter how good the food is when he's there, if he's not in the kitchen, the food is NEVER as good.

And I know you live in Robbinsville which isn't exactly the center of the universe, so here's a link to P. F. Chang's.

(gosh, I put a "J" instead of an "F".  Must be getting old or something...and bromances are so outdated).

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