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mame11

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I went to Uchi recently and LOVED it.  The sushi was amazing.  I sat at the sushi bar, and the sushi chef was super nice and friendly.  And the sushi was amazing.

I also went to Qui and was impressed by the service, but the food was not as memorable.

Whislers (near Qui) was a cool cocktail bar.

And if you don't want to brave the line at Franklin's, try La Barbeque.  Still a line, but not as long (near Whislers and Qui).

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Micklethwait Craft Meats

Is this what Franklin Barbecue was? A blog time ago, before becoming the most popular barbecue restaurant in the country, back when Aaron Franklin was serving modest crowds out of a non-descript trailer?

If so, everyone in Austin should be enjoying the chance to eat at Micklethwait in its current form. Even after three years of operation, walking up to their trademark yellow trailer during Friday lunch hour puts you in a line only a dozen customers deep, and with the full menu available (driving past Franklin Barbecue a half mile away, masses were still waiting to get in their door).

The criminally short wait belies one of the best meals in Texas.

The brisket ($18/pound) is excellent if you're judging the standard of Central Texas barbecue, pork spare ribs ($17/pound) are better than most, and the beef rib ($20/pound) has everything you look for in a beef rib. It's the other meats where Tom Micklethwait stands out, however -- starting with a selection of house-made sausages that rotates often. On my trip it was a kielbasa ($16/pound), rich in sage from their garden, and the best sausage I've ever eaten in Austin, Taylor, Lockhart or Dallas. Absolutely perfect in every way and worth a trip on its own.

Beef strip loin ($18/pound) is an uncommon selection at a Texas smokehouse, but the beautifully pink slices, wrapped in a crusty bark, would fly out of a steakhouse at $40 a plate. The barbacoa ($14/pound) is a nod to South Texas barbecue; find a stack of warm tortillas and you've got the most delicious street taco ever. Pulled goat ($18/pound) is a Saturday-only special I missed, but I can't imagine it being any less than amazing.

Side dishes are must-orders here, which is another departure from most barbecue spots (Franklin included). Lemon poppy seed cole slaw ($2) is a mayo-less refresher amidst all the meat, with a little kale and citrus going a long way. Potato salad ($2) is traditional yet better than a majority of places, thanks to the fresh dill and bits of red pepper. Ranch-style beans ($2) are phenomenal. The barbecue sauce seems a bit too vinegary on its own, but balances wonderfully when mixed in a chopped beef sandwich. Even the standard white bread and pickles are baked and pickled on-site.

A house-made chocolate moon pie ($3.75) takes you through the finish line ribbon with arms raised in glory.

I've waited in line at Franklin (three years ago I showed up at 9 a.m. on a weekday and was among the first dozen; reports of people now lining up before 7 a.m. have me doubting ever returning), regularly eat at the excellent Pecan Lodge, and visited most of the Hill Country old school temples (Louie Mueller, Black's, Smitty's, Kreuz"¦still missing Snow's). But if anyone was to say that Micklethwait has the best overall barbecue in the state, I wouldn't disagree.

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Qui

The namesake and flagship restaurant from the James Beard Award-winning, Top Chef-conquering Paul Qui has been on my must-visit list since its inception. Nearly three years after opening, the nightly Instagram paparazzi has faded, service has been polished, and the confusing small plates plus family-style menu streamlined into two tasting options. The newness has worn off and systems have been put in place -- making it the perfect time to finally dine here.

Of course, the man himself no longer has to lead the kitchen on a Friday night, and I'm assuming his absences are more normal than his visits. Also not present was the chef de cuisine, Jorge Hernandez (formerly of Minibar), but it seems like Qui has learned from his senpai and attracted a deep roster of talent: his sous chefs handled the open kitchen during my meal without a hitch.

The dining room at Qui is tasting menu only ($70 standard and $55 for the vegetable option). There is also a six-seat counter that does a different, more modernist tasting menu ($120) which is available through ticketed reservations.

Gin & tonic / Ford's gin, Takara plum wine, Bittermens "Commonwealth" tonic cordial, Topo Chico ($14) -- Topo Chico in a gin and tonic! A palm-to-forehead moment for not realizing this amazing combination a half-decade ago.

Hiyashi chawanmushi, almond dashi, smoked trout roe, marcona praline -- Beautifully plated and ingredients that read like a winner, yet lacking any memorable flavor. The cold custard was flat-tasting and only a dab or two of the roe added anything to the dish.

Whipped lardo, carrot, jamon iberico, goat milk yogurt, chervil -- At this point I was scared for the rest of my meal. The foamed lardo was nondescript, washing over the muted carrots and bits of supreme quality ham with bad synergy.

Confit sunchoke, pork blood, coconut vinegar, black lime, pickled garlic -- Just as they were about to lose me, pig blood comes to the rescue. This was a basically a few sunchokes with garnishes, but the velvety, rich pork blood sauce was phenomenal. The first "wow" moment of the night.

Confit hen of the woods, egg yolk, sal de gusano, rosemary­ -- A delicious bit of confit fungus. "Mushroom with a few drops of egg yolk and toasted bread crumbs" would be a simpler description, albeit less sexy.

Arroz caldo, crispy pig face, Island Creek oyster, pasilla chile -- Congee served with delectably crunchy pork bits wafting throughout. A plump oyster hidden at the bottom of the bowl was a pleasant finish.

Strube Ranch ribeye, grilled brassicas, rat tail radish, sakura beef broth -- This one didn't work for me. A ribeye involtini that was difficult to cut and not especially flavorful. The wrapped brassica was nicely done, however, and the well-attended, extremely clear broth was the best part of the dish.

Maja de camote, sweet potato pudding, ginger yogurt sorbet, binchotan seared meringue -- One of the best desserts I've ever had. The presentation was also fun, as the meringue topper is seared table-side using a white-hot piece of Japanese charcoal (maybe not the best practice for the liability insurance). The hot and cold, restrained sweetness, balanced composition -- all perfection.

I had talked myself into doing both tastings beforehand, so with very little prodding by the wait staff it was time to tackle the vegetable side of things. At this point I also have to commend the exemplary service. Despite a "laid-back", "unpretentious" reputation, the service procedures were what you would expect from a formal fine dining experience: tables wiped down with a hot towel between courses, unobtrusive but feedback-seeking servers, and pace-of-meal adjustments to your liking (I preferred the courses come out faster).

Before I had even mentioned a second tasting, one server brought up the suggestion himself -- thoughtfully delaying the dessert of the first menu until all savories were finished. There was never that lingering moment where you think to ask for something, because they always anticipated your needs.

Coliflor con migas, brown butter, pea tendril, caper -- Purple cauliflower served room temperature with a little extra umami. A pleasant start.

Lettuce, crème fraiche, apple, brassicas, pine nut -- This was a standout among both menus. The lettuce had been smoked (or grilled?), mixing beautifully with the rest of the ingredients.

Trumpet royale, hedgehog, yamaimo, purple mustard, mojo de ajo -- Another mushroom plating, but far superior to the regular menu. The herbed mojo sauce was addicting and went brilliantly with the roasted mushrooms and yams.

Smoked beet, black vinegar, toasted seaweed, shiso -- Not much new to be done with beets these days. A 12-hour smoke and Asian garnishes were a decent try.

Rice noodle pancit, shiitake, cabbage, black garlic, grain broth -- I haven't eaten many Filipino noodles before, but I imagine these were among the better versions. Rustic and comforting.

Sweet potato, smoked goat feta, onion, heart of palm, miso, tumeric -- Hearty, and reminiscent of a pasta course: grated cheese on top, onion in the background, and textures that mimicked marinara. Make the sweet potatoes into gnocchi and it'd be great Italian fusion.

Parsnip panna cotta, toasted farro ice cream, huckleberry, toffee, honey tuile, walnut -- I wish I could give proper credit to the pastry genius behind these two spectacular desserts. Monica Glenn led the department as recently as last summer, but there's no mention of her on the updated website bios page. Regardless, the dessert itself was another masterclass in textures (best ice cream in town), balance, and simply elegant composition. I am not a fan of impractical art display desserts, or the quenelle plus scattered crumbles and shards plating.

Cheddar cheese ice cream sandwich ($12) -- Perhaps as a dare after 14 courses, I was presented the pulatan a la carte menu, which is usually restricted to the bar and patio spaces. Challenge accepted. One of two dishes from the opening menu still hanging around, this was an ice cream cookie sandwich made memorable by the salty cheese filling and airy waffle crackers encasing it. Presented with a warm towel because you should only eat this with your hands.

Jamon iberico -- A gift from the chefs working the six-seat $120 tasting menu. So much better than the dish it was being used for, and a great gesture as well.

Qui seems at its best when the chef reaches into his Filipino handbook and adds his own style. Pork blood dinuguan, rice porridge, spicy noodles, cheese ice cream (a national favorite)"¦it's almost as if Qui is a fine dining Filipino restaurant without trying to be one. There were a few examples where high-level technique did not translate into high-level flavor, so I understand the criticisms, but I enjoyed the overall experience quite a bit by the time I walked back out to 6th Street. A unique restaurant worth consideration.

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I'm heading to Austin in November for a conference and was wondering if there are any recommendations for a group dinner (6 folks) in the $75 a head (all in) range?

Also, as I'll have an evening there basically solo - any recommendations for bourbon or craft beer bars?

Thanks in advance!

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la Barbecue

For a couple of years la Barbecue was known as the trailer where true Austin residents went for their barbecue. It was opened by Louie Mueller’s granddaughter, LeAnn, and one of her first acts after kicking out her brother was to hire John Lewis -- who worked for Aaron Franklin at the time.

It was a great backstory (Lewis wouldn’t agree to become pitmaster if LeAnn kept the Mueller name, so she came up with a compromise using her first name), and the meats lived up to the origin. Enthusiasts bragged about going to la Barbecue, with shorter waits and briskets that were as good or even better than Lewis’ mentor.

Lewis is long gone, however. He moved to Charleston and opened his own place, cornering the Central Texas barbecue market in South Carolina while being able to put his name on the door. In the (roughly) two years since Lewis left, Mueller is on her second pitmaster -- Dylan Taylor, an early twenties kid who trained under Lewis himself.

And so the cycle continues. The brisket at la Barbecue is still exceptionally good, and while I haven’t been to Franklin annually to compare (once is enough at this point), I can’t imagine there is much of a gulf separating the two. This is brisket at its most hedonistic -- the difference between lean and fatty is negligible at times, because it’s *all* fatty. That’s a byproduct of the arms race around Texas barbecue joints, as everyone tries to buy better grades of meat and render the most fat per inch. It’s gotten to the point where I’m asking for lean at the chopping block these days, as getting through even a slice of moist brisket can be nap-inducing.

To be honest, my favorite part of la Barbecue is their ribs. They require just the right amount of jawing at, with the reward being a smoky, balanced bite that lingers in the memory. I’m not sure how they glaze them, or what spices are used, but it’s an incredible end product. I’d even say they are the second best pork ribs I’ve eaten in Texas over the past several years (City Market being the best).

Lewis was making his own version of hot guts sausages before he left, and the last time I had them they were quite solid. Not super spicy or remarkable otherwise, just a very good in-house sausage. Their beef ribs aren’t going to disappoint anyone either, although my previous ramblings on brisket fat marbling apply tenfold to these things.

Sides are mere palate cleansers here; worth a shot if you’re interested but don’t go overloading on them. Their potato salad is the kind where you can use an ice cream scoop and it won’t lose its shape for the rest of the day, so you know where you stand on that. Pintos are fine. Chipotle slaw is a southwest tweak but not really my thing in this case.

Lastly, the line. Although I mentioned la Barbecue was sort of an insider’s haven when it first opened, the wait on prime days has long been brutal, and only eclipsed by Franklin. So you can easily melt away 2-4 hours on a Saturday. That said, Franklin is *always* busy, and I’ve managed to be one of the first dozen in line at la Barbecue on a chilly weekday right at 11 am.

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5 hours ago, will_5198 said:

la Barbecue

The brisket at la Barbecue is still exceptionally good, and while I haven’t been to Franklin annually to compare (once is enough at this point), I can’t imagine there is much of a gulf separating the two. This is brisket at its most hedonistic -- the difference between lean and fatty is negligible at times, because it’s *all* fatty. That’s a byproduct of the arms race around Texas barbecue joints, as everyone tries to buy better grades of meat and render the most fat per inch. It’s gotten to the point where I’m asking for lean at the chopping block these days, as getting through even a slice of moist brisket can be nap-inducing.

We stopped by several weeks ago while on a weekend jaunt to Austin with the boys.  The line was about 1.5 hrs at noonish when we were there, but it was a beautiful warm weekend day.  The brisket at LA Barbecue was among the best I've had.  I'd love to have it side by side with Killen's in Pearland, and Houston newcomer The Pit Room.  We ate at Louis Mueller's a couple days before, but I opted for the beef rib there (which lives up to its legendary status), so can't compare the two places directly.  The pork ribs at City Meat Market (the one in Giddings) still rank at or near the top of my rib list, but I haven't been to City Market in Luling just yet.

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Here's a question about waiting in lines, which I hate to do for food or beer but will if necessary.  Next summer I will be going to Austin for the first time but will only be there for two nights and one day.  I have a hard time justifying to my wanderlust self that with a whole city to explore and one day to do it, anything more than 30 minutes waiting in a line for BBQ is worth what I'd be missing out.  Is it unavoidable for really good BBQ?    Are the places without the long waits not nearly as good?  Is Micklethwait Craft Meats my answer (or one of my answers)?

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8 hours ago, Seanchai said:

Is Micklethwait Craft Meats my answer (or one of my answers)?

Summer is probably a little worse, but I just ate at Micklethwait last Saturday at 11:30 am and there was about 20 of us total. Took about a half hour from getting in line to receiving my food (a few sausages, jalapeno cheese grits, a divine version of Frito pie with brisket on top, and a noteworthy slice of pecan pie). It was also only 30 degrees, so there's that.

Stiles Switch is about six miles north, and is a full sit-down restaurant I've had good experiences at. It’s not the best barbecue in Austin, but it’s very good -- and tastes even better when considering the ample indoor seating, friendlier hours (open until 9 p.m.) and a lack of line-waiting endurance training. If you drive up right when they open you'll be among the first served, and immediately. 

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5 hours ago, will_5198 said:

Stiles Switch is about six miles north, and is a full sit-down restaurant I've had good experiences at. It’s not the best barbecue in Austin, but it’s very good -- and tastes even better when considering the ample indoor seating, friendlier hours (open until 9 p.m.) and a lack of line-waiting endurance training. If you drive up right when they open you'll be among the first served, and immediately. 

I couldn't deal with long lines in 90 degree and humid heat when I was in Austin a couple of years ago. I got carry out from Stiles Switch and quite enjoyed it. They were named one of maybe 20 best barbecue places in Austin by some local publication for whatever that's worth.

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Valentina's Tex Mex BBQ

When chefs in New York clamor to open their own barbecue restaurant ("Brooklyn-style BBQ"…and people say Texans are arrogant), and 30-somethings plan vacations around Pujol instead of Noma, it’s a wonder why smoked meats and Mexican cuisine haven't developed a deeper relationship within Texas itself.

Sure, there are brisket enchiladas and tacos, but those are filled with pot roast, not true ‘cue (delicious as it is regardless). Smoked barbacoa is also found in a few places around the state, but that’s another rarity.

Enter Miguel Vidal. The San Antonio native opened Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ (his daughter’s name) in 2013, a food truck that would meld the state’s favorite two cuisines. And that he’s done, to amazing results.

The first great aspect of Valentina’s smoked brisket taco ($5) is that you can order one at 8 am. Real barbecue before lunch hour is a minor miracle, and that alone would make a visit compulsory (shout-out to Snow's).

Aside from making mornings a better place for everyone, the taco itself is perfect fusion: a friendly portion of chopped moist brisket, smashed avocado, hint of lime, and a large, handmade flour tortilla that dutifully cradles it all. Salsa roja that’s heavy on cilantro and serranos comes on the side, and a necessary addition.

Taken together, and a number of swirling questions enter the mind between every incredible bite: Why hadn’t we thought to put guacamole and salsa on a fatty slab of smoked brisket yet? Why have we confined beautiful brisket to boring sandwich rolls, when a warm, griddle-kissed tortilla can do the same job? Why haven’t I visited this trailer until now?

If that masterpiece doesn’t do it for you, breakfast hours (until 11 am) offer The Real Deal Holyfield ($6.50) as a dare. For this version the brisket is sliced regularly, laid atop a combination of beans and potatoes, then topped with a fried egg and slice of crisp bacon. Yes, that’s all correct. To me it’s almost too much, but I support the fact it exists.

As stunning as both those tacos are, my personal winner is the carnitas taco ($4.50). Another heaping portion of meat, this time the juiciest smoked pork you can imagine, resting over sautéed onions and topped with fresh cilantro. Don’t forget to liberally apply the tomatillo salsa and you have one of the best tacos in Austin city limits (or anywhere, for that matter).

Brisket by the pound, beef ribs, and the usual barbecue sandwiches are also available if so inclined. One note: although Austin is a post-oak world, Vidal goes mesquite in his pit -- despite the traditional naysayers, I never tasted an errant bitter bite. Plus it adds another layer of uniqueness to the entire operation.

The real reason to be at Valentina’s is the tacos, though. They are a simple idea executed brilliantly, and provoke an urge to return the very next day, order another round, then try everything else you haven’t had yet. Which is the best endorsement anyone can give to a restaurant.

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Barley Swine

Four years ago I had one of the best meals of my life in a little 35-seat restaurant off South Lamar.

Since then, Barley Swine has only gotten bigger and better. In January 2016 they moved into a brand new space at Burnet Road, which is on the other side of Austin, and were able to upgrade everything. Seating has doubled. There is a bar program now (no liquor was served at the original). The open kitchen is three times the size, with dedicated grill and pastry sections that barely existed before.

Chef Bryce Gilmore remains front and center, however. I make a point to visit yearly, and each dinner has left me with a deeper appreciation for what he does. Despite running another successful restaurant at full steam (Odd Duck), Gilmore bucks most trends by relentlessly improving his flagship.

Barley Swine 2.0 now has two-tops (the original was communal tables and bar seating only), a private patio, a la carte as well as a full tasting menu (previous versions were either or). Yet the place to be is still the chef's counter, a long row that looks directly into the open kitchen. You’re right in front of the garde manger, flanked by the busy grill and with a great view of the center island that constitutes the pass. That’s where Gilmore will be, and I’ve never seen him without a mechanical focus on every single process going on in his kitchen.

Kooper Family Rye ($10)

Austin-made rye. Very light, and smooth.

Chef’s tasting ($90)

There are several fantastic options a la carte, including a shiitake pasta and pig skin noodles (both are not as simple as they seem) that have remained on the menu since the restaurant’s relocation. Also make sure to order any fish entrees if they’re available; a filet of red snapper with koji butter eaten here remains one of the best dishes I’ve had in lifetime memory.

The tasting menu is my preferred option, though.

Sweet potato, goat cheese, smoked trout roe

After a complimentary glass of sparkling, this amuse was more of a technique-exhibit than anything. A puffed sweet potato bite filled with goat cheese and topped with roe. Basically a loaded potato chip.

Beet-cured mackerel, sugar snap pea

Not sure how much beet flavor is imparted, but a beautiful slice of red-stained fish in a pea broth. I guess winter peas in Texas is a thing, due to the extremely hot temperatures in early spring and late fall combined with a lack of frosts. Delicate and delicious.

Sunchoke custard, fried skins

Anyone else tired of sunchokes yet? Gilmore uses them even more than most chefs, but I always find his versions enjoyable. This was a super-concentrated custard, served with fried sunchoke skins dabbed with devil egg topping. Starchy fried skins are something I've seen at other places, and I get why they’re popular. Here was a great example of every component being perfectly seasoned and delicious on its own, but even better and not overwrought when you put them in a single bite.

Ember roasted squash, mesquite, toasted seeds

A single slice of squash with its charred skin left on. The assertive roasted flavors were unabashed here, but what set this off were the bits of chocolate miso sauce on top. Sweet, smoky and bitter all in play and harmonious. Barley Swine pays attention to vegetables, and it shows.

Red shrimp, cauliflower, tangerine

Wow. A single exemplary shrimp, surrounded by a pool of cauliflower sauce that had been previously roasted and aerated just a bit at service. Gilmore has long used these slightly foamed sauces, giving them a lightness without verging on the abstract. The tangerine sauce was incredibly vivid, dotting the white cauliflower for a beautiful contrast in visuals and taste.

Dry aged beef, broth, seeded loaf

The best part of this dish was a separate cube of flax seed loaf. The outside was baked to an addicting golden brown crunch, with a moist crumb dotted with nuts. On top was a slab of extra cheesy arugula pesto. Combined it ate like an abstract steakhouse side; the heartiness of bread and butter mixed with a pesto mimicking a spinach gratin. Oh yeah, the steak was nice as well. Served in a bowl with oyster mushrooms and bone broth poured tableside.

Pork belly, cabbage, gulf XO sauce

Sous-vide then finished on the grill. Sausage filled with shrimp mousse -- or rather, shrimp mousse wrapped within a sausage. More technique exhibition, but tasty.

Duck, broccoli, fried duck egg

A stunning final savory course. Duck breast lacquered and rosy rare to the best anyone can do it. A single piece of grilled broccoli. Another foamed sauce, blank white but tasting exactly of fried egg. Perfect bites that’ll be remembered.

Apple, lemongrass, koji rice pudding

Approachable but still creative. Rice pudding was served cold, topped with a quenelle of ice cream and crunchy bits. Koji has been splattered over every tasting menu the last year, but I haven't found a reason to complain yet. Pastry chef Susana Querejazu has been with Gilmore since 2014, running desserts both here and at Odd Duck, and is extremely talented.

Dark chocolate, winter nuts, milk jam

Traditional dark chocolate tart done extremely well. A little sea salt, caramel corn, candied orange peel. I favor lots of cacao and small portions when it comes to chocolate, so this was speaking to me.

Mignardises

Macaron and a pate de fruit.

Gilmore uses preparations and flavors seen at other trendsetting restaurants world-wide, but there’s a sincerity to every dish that you can’t get from copying technique. Each bite is perfectly seasoned on its own, but even better together and never overreaching. I have yet to taste anything here that's less than fabulous.

Gilmore is long overdue for a James Beard award (this year will be his fifth straight nomination for Best Chef Southwest), and is still running Barley Swine with the utmost command and precision. If you visit Austin, you must go. This is the best restaurant in Texas.

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I was in Austin this weekend and arose early Saturday to make the trek to Snow's BBQ. Snow's is located in Lexington, Texas - a very small town about one hour east of Austin. It has also been named 'The Best BBQ in Texas' by Texas Monthly magazine on two occasions, last year beating out Franklin's for the title. They are open only on Saturday mornings and are typically out of meat by noon. 

For those few who haven't ready about Snow's, their story is as remarkable as their barbecue. Snow's pitmaster is Tootsie Tomanetz, an 82-year old woman who arrives at 2:30am every Saturday morning to smoke meat for the masses. During the week, she works in the maintenance department at the local school district. This spring, she was nominated for a James Beard award. A reporter who reached out to her after the nomination had to explain to her what it was. 

We pulled up at 6:30am sharp, and I was the 11th person in line. In front of us were a group of five men from Los Angeles who were doing a BBQ tour of Texas, hitting several places in a single day. By the time Snow's opened at 8am, there were roughly 60 people in line. The line provides a good view of the open pits, and I noticed Steven Raichlen was there, following Tootsie around and taking lots of notes. I wanted to say hello, but he was gone by the time we got our food.

Entering a small shed, you have a choice of ribs, chicken, turkey, sausage, pork butt, and brisket. I went with the brisket, sausage, pork butt, and some chicken to share with my companions. There is coleslaw and potato salad to buy, and free barbecued beans. I tried none of them, not wanting to waste valuable stomach space. There are a few tables inside, but ten picnic tables outside next to the pits are where you want to sit. 

The brisket was great, with good smoke and nicely rendered fat. Some of the lean parts were a tad dry but that is to be expected. I've read they use small briskets (5-6lbs) and only cook them for about six hours. The pork butt is the real star. They cut it into steaks about an inch thick, then cook it about 4-5 feet over hot coals for about six hours. Then the meat is carved into slices before serving. This is not a tender cut, but is salty and fatty with a nicely caramelized crust. I had read many people say the chicken is their favorite, and it is very good. It has the 'bite through' skin that is so important on the competition circuit, is nicely crispy and seasoned simply with salt and pepper. I thought I detected a hint of citrus in it (maybe lemon pepper?). The sausage was good as well, though not particularly noteworthy.

Was it the best barbecue I've ever eaten? It was up there, but probably not quite the best. Was it the best barbecue meal I've ever had? Unquestionably. 

You arrive in a tiny Texas town at sunrise. Exiting your vehicle, you can hear the cows rustling and mooing in the nearby cattleyard during the coolest part of the day. From your seat, you can look over the nearby fields while feeling the heat and smelling the smoke from the fire and watch these pitmasters at work while enjoying the fruits of their labor. It is an encapsulation of everything about Texas barbecue, and a reminder that meals are about experiences as much as food. I can't wait to return.

 

 

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Having been in Austin numerous times over the last few years, I've been meaning to post some of the (many) places we've liked. This post was a good reminder to do that. I unfortunately don't have much insight into vegetarian options, but many of these places are very laid back and pretty kid friendly:

"Buzzier" places

  • Kemuri Tatsu-Ya: Really cool place that mixes Japanese Izakaya type food with Texas barbecue. Phenomenal, unique food, and absurdly reasonable prices by DC standards. The brisket ramen is a standout, but a ton of good stuff there. 
  • Suerte: Mexican place specializing in masa. Some of the best Mexican I've ever had, and highly recommended. Goat barbacoa and squash tamale both excellent.

BBQ

  • Micklethwait Craft Meats: Just down the street from Franklin BBQ, and while I have no doubt Franklin is excellent, I have never had the slightest inclination to wait in that line given the quality of Mickethwait's. Fantastic Texas barbecue with top notch brisket, but they also do a lot of high-quality sides and some interesting specials (pulled lamb, excellent homemade sausages). Free beer while you wait in line, but if you hit it at like 11:30 on a Friday you won't have to wait much.
  • Valentina's: Honestly this might be one of my favorite places to eat, of any type, anywhere. Phenomenal Texas barbecue, but then done with a Tex-Mex spin into incredible tacos and tortas. The best flour tortillas I've ever had, and it doesn't get much better than their brisket, pulled chicken, and breakfast tacos. This place is pretty far south and it's a bit of a hike to get to, but is 100% worth it. If I could put any place anywhere in the DC area, it might be Valentina's.

Tacos

No shortage of great spots, but have enjoyed most:

  • Ñoños Tacos: In a gas station in north Austin. Excellent corn tortillas and highly traditional tacos. Closed Sundays.
  • Dos Batos: Also in north Austin. Less traditional, but with a good smoky flavor on everything.

Brewery/Winery

  • Jester King: Fantastic farmhouse brewery a bit outside of town in a gorgeous setting. Everything from great IPAs to some really cool sours and barrel-aged beers. Great place to spend an afternoon.
  • Lewis Wines: I enjoy wine, but am not remotely a wine expert. That being said, I was impressed by Texas wine country which had some (to my taste) really enjoyable wines, especially doing some Spanish and Italian varietals well. And just as good is that, while they seem to get grapes from all over Texas, many wineries are out in the Hill country which makes for an excellent day trip from Austin. And much more reasonable prices than the (absurdly priced) VA wineries. Lewis Wines has solid wine and an amazing setting with an open pavilion in an oak grove. The people there are super nice and it's about a very relaxing place to spend an afternoon. Also near Pedernales Falls state park, which is a great spot for a hike beforehand.
  • Hilmy Cellars: Not as relaxing or pleasant a spot as Lewis Wines, and much busier, but excellent wine (better than Lewis).

This of course barely cracks the surface of what's in Austin, but just sharing some places that have been highlights.

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Unfortunately, I completely forgot to check back here and missed the great reviews above. However, I did still manage to have some excellent food in Austin which seems to have a ton of places - definitely worth a foodie trip. Here is my reviews over several days earlier this week. We started at Torchy's Tacos, a local chain, very good chips, salsa and guacamole. We had this at 3-4 different places and it was always good. We got a bunch of different tacos and they were hit or miss. Very good was the fried catfish? taco and the blackened salmon. The barbacoa and chicken were so so. The fried avocado that my vegetarian Austin native family member loves was not good IMHO. Kids were happy with cheese quesadillas from the kid's menu. The cocktails were also hit or miss - the mojito riff lacked alcohol whereas the other one we had was fine but forgettable as I can't remember 😉 For breakfast, we had Biderman's Bagels conveniently located in the heart of downtown on 8th st, off Congress. They are classic Jewish bagel place with nice chewy, fresh bagels in a variety of flavors.  Great late lunch at Fresa's on 1st St south of the river (there is 1 other smaller location across town N of the river) - like many Austin places they have a nice outdoor area. This was one of the best with big trees casting shade over the whole space. Service was ok despite a bit of an unnecessary wait for a table when there were a ton empty but food was delicious. The best chips, salsa and guac we had were here. Kids' loved their cheese quesadillas. The wood-grilled brussel sprouts subbed for meat in the variety of fresh and cooked veggie bowl including sweet potato were delicious. The shareable side of wood-grilled cauliflower with onions, chillis and a shallot vinagrette was amazing and ample. I told our vegetarian who lives nearby that would get this to go every other day. The chicken taco was very good. I got the citrus grilled chicken platter which comes with fresh flour tortilla, grilled onions and chillis, and beans and rice (I got the black beans - so good and white rice since I don't do bacon in the pinto and mexican rice). Very good make your own taco style. This place is just wonderful I wish it was in my neighborhood. (although I still think the tacos I had last week at Taqueria Habanero on 14th St in DC can easily hold their own with any of the tacos I had in Austin).  Dessert at Sugar Mama's nearby was pretty good if you like cupcakes or rich treats. My kids' cupcakes were so rich they said they were defeated by them. My bourbon pecan bar was small and for good reason - very sweet and good. Better dessert was Amy's Ice Cream, another local chain that has multiple locations including one in the middle of the airport terminal, really good ice creams with lots of fun and traditional flavors. Very creamy. I tried a bunch of flavors on two occasions and my favorite was a special, Beehive Crunch (or something similar) which was vanilla, cinnamon, honey ice cream with pecan pieces.  One Amy's spot that we went to off a main road on the west side of town is a combo with Phil's burger place so you can get burgers, corndogs, chicken tenders, fries, etc (big menu with lots of options but we didn't try it) - it has a nice playground outdoor space for kids to entertain themselves. Wonderful BBQ at Terry Black's BBQ close to the south side of the river,  near Zilker Park.  We went on a weekday night around 730pm and had to wait 30 minutes or so but it was worth it. We only had the brisket but it was a great mix of spice on the bark, smoky moist meat with some but not too much fat. When we got to the cashier/meat carver, we asked for brisket and she said oh do you like burnt ends and showed up a lovely specimen and I immediately said YES! We also got another good amount of brisket from the center. It was really nice having both because they were equally smoky but the burnt ends had extra rubbed spice and a bit more fat whereas the thin slices of regular were meatier and a bit more mild. They have 3 different BBQ sauces but we only tried the original which was a good standard sauce but the meat was so flavorful, it didn't need it. Also really good were most of the sides we chose: garlicky and medium (not too soggy) cooked green beans, really good cornbread, and mayo slaw. The only disappointment was the peach cobbler which was blech - the cobbler crust was so so but the peaches were cloying sweet mushy peaches probably from a can and then overcooked in overly gelled sauce. There is a nice indoor and nice outdoor seating and like most Austin BBQ it is all counter service.  They also have a nice little bar you can order from while in line so you can sip beer, wine, or in my case an Austin cider in anticipation of your meal. For the tea lovers - head to the Steeping House, a small cafe restaurant with a very long list of teas and surprisingly good long menu of food (beyond good pastries). I ate a very nice vegetable korma with reddish grains with spicy tofu, good soft scones that come with tasty strawberry preserves. I had a nice bite of the vegan caesar salad with cashew? dressing. PopBar for dessert was good and different. It is a western/middle US chain. It is downtown and sells sorbets (so so) and gelato (better) popsicles that you then choose to dip whole or half in a variety of chocolates and then can add toppings that stick to the dips.  Another night we had good if you are in the area but not destination Italian in the heart of downtown at La Traviata. Started with some nice salads and then good chicken parm, a special 3 cheese ravioli was light and good, and linguine with truffle oil sauce and mushrooms was good. Good vietnamese and desserts at Elizabeth Cafe on 1st St south of river (not far from Fresa's) - decent spring rolls with a variety of choices that comes with very nice dipping sauces (PB, avocado, and vinegar), then the chicken thigh bun on vermicelli noodles was only so so - well made with fresh ingredients but lacking a bit of flavor. Better was the avocado and sprout banh mi (they have lots of variety) which was pretty classic banh mi on great rolls. Dessert - sorbets and beignets were rather good. Beignets were like small puff pastries that were sweet but not coated in powdered sugar as elsewhere and come with a nice jam to top them with. We ate several breakfast items at Caroline's downtown because it was in our hotel the Marriot Aloft - most were good. The Go Green Smoothie was a fave, the cream cheese frosting topped cinnamon roll was hit (although the roll was a bit crispy, not doughy soft as usual and which I prefer), interesting lemon curd topped kougin aman, very good and standard pain de raisin, their egg, black bean breakfast tacos are a few small bites of goodness with the added ranchero salsa, the spinach, roasted poblano and egg white breakfast sandwich was also good. Skip the lemon cake and chocolate zucchini bread. Pancakes were decent. Another fun dessert place was Baked Bear a bit hidden next to the downtown Trader Joe's in the Shellholm old power plant complex - good ice cream and cookies and lots of encouragement to make your own ice cream sandwich. Unless you have a big appetite, I recommend get a nice scoop with just one warmed up cookie on the side (lots and lots of different options here including brownies too). My kids both loved the bright blue dyed Bear Batter flavor - cake batter ice cream with brownie or cookie bits in it. I liked the blackberry crumble ice cream with the salted peanut butter chocolate chip cookie. No regrets. We also had a very nice meal at the downtown Flower Child which is a national chain that just opened a DC location near the IMF/Foggy Bottom. I got the 3 vegetable sampler with great spicy eggplant (this one was really good and worth a trip), good sweet potatos, and ok indian charred cauliflower along with their spicy BBQ tofu strips - also good. The salads were not as exciting but good. We enjoyed the immense candy selection (with lots of regional and retro options) at Big Top Candy in the middle of South Congress strip. Lastly, we sampled the surprisingly good options at the airport. The East Side Pies made to order personal pizzas were rather good and we only had plain cheese for the kids. To the left of it was slow but good (much slower than you'd expect for airport food) Fly Chicken or some similar name which had great meaty chicken tenders. Of course we also had another round of Amy's Ice Cream. I had heard very mixed reviews of the Salt Lick BBQ location in the airport and passed it up - but I was tempted to bring home the ready for travel whole brisket for $80. 

Not food related but also caught some good music at the dive bar C-Boys on the southern end of South Congress.

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Micklethwait Craft Meats 

2021: This place remains everything that it ever was. A spot in the top ten of Texas Monthly's previous Top 50 list gave them long-deserved notice, but the wait times have never grown to the unmanageable status of their neighbors down the street. On the right Saturday, you can still stroll up a half hour before opening and be one of the first dozen people served.

Most essentially, the food remains as well-crafted as always. A three-meat plate ($20) of trinity yields a perfectly moist slice of brisket, a pork rib you can leave a bite-mark in, and a genre-defining sausage that remains the best I've ever had in the state.

The other meat choices are as well-done and more interesting. Pulled lamb is juicy, subtly smoked but also unquestionably flavorful; the barbacoa is a mixture of all the best barbecue textures and has provided me as much delight in a tortilla as any taco shop I've been to. There are usually multiple sausage options, and a lamb red pepper link tasted exactly how it reads, with the two foremost ingredients amplified by a master's blend of background additions.

(Micklethwait does beef ribs on Saturdays, and I was tempted to order one due to my place in line, but the math no longer adds up for me. For various reasons, brisket prices are up 44% from 5 years ago, and beef rib prices are now orbiting in space. I would only recommend spending the requisite $65-80 if you have never had one, ever.)

It's the sides that make a barbecue plate into a meal, and nobody does them better than here. Lemon poppy coleslaw cuts through the heaviness of rendered fat and a high noon sun. A weekend special of green bean salad was al dente beans, quickly charred then tossed in a vinaigrette. Mac and cheese was the loose version, with a pinch of spice, but if you want decadent just order the always superb jalapeno cheese grits. I like the thin, vinegary barbecue sauce -- it's not much by itself, but goes with all their meats without any clashing. There's also the requisite slice of their own fresh-baked bread that mops up everything savory at the end.

My favorite barbecue spot in Austin, and for that matter, Texas. And one of my favorite places to eat anywhere.

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Terry Black’s - Both the moist brisket (which was really moist) and the sausage were revelatory. The slaw and the green beans were more than good enough, and the bread of course was some type of Wonder Bread imitation. The pickles were mercifully sour to cut the fatty brisket.

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This is a Thursday lunch!

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The recording quality is awful, but this was a proud moment.

https://www.facebook.com/100074521573193/posts/pfbid0nvQ2pGhpJkbnrcrdh2en63PcqU2eEQY3mZgwLzPswjyMZYw5CagEjqMvCstUyZS1l

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On 1/27/2023 at 12:59 PM, DonRocks said:

Terry Black’s - Both the moist brisket (which was really moist) and the sausage were revelatory. The slaw and the green beans were more than good enough, and the bread of course was some type of Wonder Bread imitation. The pickles were mercifully sour to cut the fatty brisket.

Terry Black's is where I would recommend most non-Texan visitors go to experience Central Texas-style barbecue. They have locations in Dallas and Lockhart as well, with more to come -- one of the owners mentioned they bought several pieces of land when interest rates were lower, and are sitting on them while construction costs remain high. I do know they own a prime spot in Fort Worth off 7th Street. 

Why go to Terry Black's? Because the cooking is very uniform for their amount of production, they have all-day hours without a waning selection, and they still maintain that proper Texan barbecue ambiance/style, the owners being a part of Lockhart royalty (their uncle is the owner of Black's, although they have been publicly feuding for over a decade). Their brisket is quality, ribs are solid, the sausage is better than many acclaimed places, the turkey is impossibly moist (I am assuming a heavy brine, although it does lose a bit of the small flavor that turkey has due to the moisture) and sides are homestyle but varied. Anyone that has never had Texas barbecue can go to Terry Black's and understand what it is after eating there, without waiting in an obscene line or making a Canterbury-esque pilgrimage.

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3 hours ago, will_5198 said:

Terry Black's is where I would recommend most non-Texan visitors go to experience Central Texas-style barbecue

Anyone that has never had Texas barbecue can go to Terry Black's and understand what it is after eating there, without waiting in an obscene line or making a Canterbury-esque pilgrimage.

May I safely assume you prefer Franklin’s?

The line was just too much - outside and down the street for an entire block! A 20-30 person line inside of Terry Black’s will get you to the counter in 5-7 minutes.

But you’re right: I feel like I understand Texas barbecue after having been to Terry Black’s - that’s a good way to put it.

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2 hours ago, DonRocks said:

May I safely assume you prefer Franklin’s?

My preference is to drive past Franklin on the way to Micklethwait.

My one and only visit to Franklin, over 10 years ago, set a new standard for what brisket could taste like. Many barbecue meals later, the brisket at Franklin would still rank among the best I've ever eaten, along with Truth and Goldee's (other meats and sides are a different story). But in the times I've been to Austin since, I haven't felt the need to return -- not because I have any insight on the quality improving/declining, or think it's overrated. There are just so many other excellent barbecue restaurants to try (due in part to Aaron Franklin). 

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Hestia

This place is…interesting. Hestia is the second Austin restaurant from chefs Kevin Fink and Tavel Bristol-Joseph, after their success with Emmer and Rye. Apparently in the last 10 years it was decided that every major US city needed an open hearth, fine dining concept, and Hestia filled that gap in Austin as of 2019.

Located in the southern part of downtown, a block from Google's offices, this is a sleek, dark and loud restaurant. A "raise your voice across a two-top" kind of loud, even at 9:30 pm on a Thursday night. The noise does not hamper the service though, which was consistently enthusiastic across the army of staff that is typical at this price-point (had to be over six different people touch our table, and we only had desserts and coffee). I can see people thinking they are trying too hard, but I will take that over indifference any time I dine out.

Tasting menus are not so much my playlist anymore (Hestia's is $195 per person) and we had eaten dinner somewhere else -- this visit was strictly about desserts, which read interestingly. Bristol-Joseph is a pastry chef by trade, and most of the desserts I've seen listed across the eight restaurants he and Fink partner on seem worth trying.

Descriptions and words and pictures only go so far, of course. The chocolate fondant ($15) was a strong start -- not the lava cake I've experienced before, but instead a sort of chocolate canelé sandwiched between fancy cocoa and hazelnut crackers and topped with a dark cherry sauce. Classic flavors, interesting presentation; a success.

The buñuelo ($14) also hit the refined and tasty marks nicely. Shaped like the Mexican classic and fried to movie stunt glass crispiness, with roasted flavor imparted by smoke and a little savory balance by the thyme ice cream. Well-done.

Things got a bit off track after that. I've seen more instances of sourdough ice cream ($14) listed on menus nationally, and Hestia's version is well-regarded online. I did not get that same experience. Dusted in a black fermented tomato powder (it basically resembles a piece of coal) with tomato jam and shoyu caramel inside, I can appreciate the "pan con tomate" vision but one of the elements was almost unpalatably salty. And I really like sodium.

Kakigori ($20) did not have the same kind of fatal flaw, it was just too nondescript. Asian food of all types is much more ubiquitous these days, so maybe that was part of it, but I didn't think the inner layer of horchata ice cream or bits of salted apple were that compelling. I will say I prefer bingsu, if that matters.

So some hits, and some misses. I have a feeling their savory menu has the same variances -- which leaves me thinking you could have a very good meal here, or one that makes you wonder how you ended up paying $20 for shaved ice.

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Above (left): Chocolate fondant, cocoa sable, hazelnut croquant, cherry, vanilla milk gel. Right: Bunuelo, roasted white chocolate mousse, apple butter, burnt thyme ice cream.

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Above (left): Kakigori, horchata ice cream, salted cream, apple. Right: pear (or maybe it was apple, no notes and not online) sorbet from the tasting menu since we were just doing desserts. It was pleasant. They even offered to bring out the Basque cheesecake from their next door bar, Kalimotxo, which was an appreciated gesture (too full).

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Interstellar BBQ

This is the culmination of the "craft" barbecue scene. Opened in 2019 at a strip mall that is barely within the northernmost city limits, Interstellar BBQ took all the lessons of the current barbecue renaissance and went to perfect them. In less than two years, those efforts had them earned them the number two ranking in the entire state (as deemed by the most recent Texas Monthly Top 50 list).

The line on a rainy Friday was not insignificant but only 30-ish deep when the doors opened, which is much more tolerable than the 2.5-4 hours you would spend at Franklin, Goldee's or Snow's. I imagine weekends are worse, but still likely manageable if you get there 45 minutes before opening. A wonderful staff member walked down the line to take coffee orders, and in our case returned with an above-average espresso.

Once at the cutting block you realize Interstellar has a truly extensive menu -- ten different meat options, seven different sides, as well as tacos and sandwiches. While not limiting themselves to the Texas trinity, those three were all nailed: the brisket ($34 per pound) had a terrifically seasoned, dark and crisp bark, with fat well-trimmed and rendered throughout; pork spare ribs ($28 per pound) were textbook, with a little more spice than usual; a beef kielbasa ($6) and jalapeno popper sausage ($6) were both unctuous links with snappy cases and smoked perfectly.

It's the additional meats that elevate Interstellar from tradition. Peach tea-glazed pork belly ($30 per pound) is extremely rich and maybe too sweet for some, but I appreciated the near-candied bites. Jonny White of Goldee's had a lot of praise for Interstellar's pork belly in the past, and I don't think it is a coincidence that Goldee's now offers their own version (with peach glaze on the side, so you can control the sweetness).

Turkey ($28 per pound) is bathed in local beer and herbs before hitting the offset, and the reward for that extra effort is a white meat that is leagues flavorful than most versions. A Frito pie sausage ($7) was as good as the other two sausages, if not that different from the cheesy standard that is jalapeno and cheddar.

The two meats that blew me away, however, were the Friday special of barbecue duck ($32 per pound) and menu standard lamb shoulder ($34 per pound). The former was perfection; the most tender smoked duck with a cherry reduction on top. The latter was the most craveable item on my tray -- love lamb, love it better smoked, and the mix of salt-sugar-vinegar gave me a flashback to North Carolina.

Sides are done with the same intention as the meats: mac and cheese with the flourishes of toasted panko and gouda, a creamy jalapeno coleslaw that has a gentle bite, the soupy, meaty barbecue beans that taste like a forbidden Texan version of chili, and the must-order, their smoked scalloped potatoes. I love a good potato gratin, but when you throw them on the grates and let smoke crisp up the top and penetrate every layer of cream and cheese? Unbelievably good.

There is much to lament in regards to modern-day barbecue: the Disneyworld wait times that have squeezed out locals, the price of brisket tripling over the past decade, the insistence to pit barbecue places against each other and take pride in putting certain places down.

Yet after a meal at Interstellar, you remember that the proliferation of Texas-style barbecue (warts and all) from coast to coast, and even across countries, has happened for a reason. There is nothing else quite like it.

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Platter of meats. Clock-wise from top: barbecue duck, three sausages, pork belly, turkey, lamb shoulder, brisket, pork ribs (and tomato-zucchini salad).

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Clock-wise from top: jalapeno slaw, Anson Mill grits, mac and gouda, potato salad, smoked scalloped potatoes. Right: A proper banana pudding should always have Nilla wafers (their version also had a sort of caramel, dulce de leche swirl inside).

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Owner John Bates was talking to every table and the entire staff were extremely hospitable. 

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Ramen Del Barrio

The more you dine out, the more your prejudgments fall in line with the meals you have. Or rather, each new restaurant seems to match another entry in your encyclopedia of food experiences, in either a comforting or nondescript way.

Then some meals just smack you in the face.

Ramen Del Barrio is giving open palms and backhands from a small food stall inside an Asian supermarket, cooking Japanese food through a Mexican filter (or maybe the other way around). There are no shortcuts from either side, which is what makes the food irresistible.

I was sold on the carnitas tonkotsu ($14.50) just by seeing those two words in succession, and the end product is somehow more impressive than I imagined. Replacing chashu with a mix of pork belly, shoulder, the actual stomach, and crispy skin (that keeps its texture in broth) is a simple and divine substitution, making me instantly forget the majority of chashu I've ever eaten with ramen. It works because the carnitas on their own would be superlative in any Mexican taqueria or restaurant; I wanted to order a side of them on their own and make tacos.

Then the toppings? Sautéed onions. Chile toreado. Cilantro and lime. Garlic oil. Hell yes to all of that. Milky, collagen-filled pork broth was built to handle all those emphatic flavors, dispersed among noodles that had the perfect just-past-al-dente texture for me.

A partnering bowl of cochinita pibil tonkotsu ($15) was more Mexican-forward and could have qualified as a native soup if not for the bouncy noodles. I'm very selective about menudo and rarely eat it at restaurants -- I prefer honeycomb only, and also feel that most places don't soak the tripe in lime overnight -- but their version of menudo tokonstu ($14.50) with hominy looked excellent coming out of the kitchen.

But wait, there are tacos too! The tacos are yakitori-style, served with their skewer on a large format, sturdy corn tortilla that's been well-glazed with oil and griddle heat. Charred octopus "al pastor" ($7) was tender and excellent, but somehow outshined by a simple chicken thigh. Usually chicken is the worst protein you could order for a taco, yet their pollo asado with piloncillo tare ($5) was an outlier; marinated and grilled to umami-perfection.

While most Mexican-Japanese fusion I've seen in Texas has been Maruchan dipped in birria consommé and served as ramen (delicious in its own right), this was the first place that really committed to marrying both cuisines. This was not in my personal dining almanac. This was a restaurant that surprised me at every bite. This was one of the best meals I had in 2023. 

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Above (L): Carnitas tonkotsu was sublime. (R): Cochinita pibil tonkotsu was nearly as good. 

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Above (L): Tacos cannot be forgotten with your order. (R): The unassuming food stall inside a grocery store has become a lot more popular lately. We went in mid-December and there was a bit of a line all the way up until close (7 pm). The last month or two, it seems they are selling out either by lunchtime or early dinner. I believe they are at capacity for what they can make daily without moving to a bigger kitchen/location. 

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