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Dinner - The Polyphonic Food Blog


JPW

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I make tongue for the little guy's school lunch most weeks and this week.

I predict that this will last only until he can report to his school friends just what he is eating and the "EEWWW, GROSS" response will put an end to it.

Perhaps. So far his classmates seem more awed than anything else.

I wonder how much the culture of Fine & Taqueria Dining is seeping into family life or shaping attitudes of children. My initial reaction was Zora's and, in fact, my mother fed me tongue until she made the mistake of telling me what I was eating. However, nowadays I hear both male chefs and women in the food world brag about sons who scarf down anything that might be considered gross because it is gross and they can then tell their friends they ate it. They're in competition with their parents. Daughters, too? At a time when it's rare to spot a little girl who isn't wearing pink or purple, I don't know if it's a little guy thing.

Footnote: I'm currently reading the correspondence of Julia Child and Avis De Voto and in the early 50's, the latter praises the quality of calf's hearts she picked up cheap in an Italian grocery store north of Cambridge, MA. Offal was no big deal and more common, perhaps, back when women bought their family's meat at the butcher's. Was a pre- and plastic-wrapped pile of organ meat harder to take in supermarket aisles, thereby turning off more and more Americans in the 60s?

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I came home from Los Angeles yesterday with a bag of dried beans from the Santa Monica farmers market, only to find that J. had eaten most of the leftover christmas ham and discarded the ham bone. DOH! Why didn't I put it in the freezer?

Fortunately, my ham bone survived in the fridge until I was ready to use it yesterday. I took inspiration from Zora and made a cranberry bean and ham soup for dinner last night. Hit the spot on a cold day.

(Have I mentioned how much I love my pressure cooker? The new Vita Mix is a close second, as it let me chop onions in a matter of seconds!)

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Fortunately, my ham bone survived in the fridge until I was ready to use it yesterday. I took inspiration from Zora and made a cranberry bean and ham soup for dinner last night. Hit the spot on a cold day.

(Have I mentioned how much I love my pressure cooker? The new Vita Mix is a close second, as it let me chop onions in a matter of seconds!)

Right now, my Vitamix is in first place, but I'm certainly glad that I've warmed up to my pressure cooker. Using both tonight for soup and rice with lentils, respectively.

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I wonder how much the culture of Fine & Taqueria Dining is seeping into family life or shaping attitudes of children. My initial reaction was Zora's and, in fact, my mother fed me tongue until she made the mistake of telling me what I was eating. However, nowadays I hear both male chefs and women in the food world brag about sons who scarf down anything that might be considered gross because it is gross and they can then tell their friends they ate it. They're in competition with their parents. Daughters, too? At a time when it's rare to spot a little girl who isn't wearing pink or purple, I don't know if it's a little guy thing.

Footnote: I'm currently reading the correspondence of Julia Child and Avis De Voto and in the early 50's, the latter praises the quality of calf's hearts she picked up cheap in an Italian grocery store north of Cambridge, MA. Offal was no big deal and more common, perhaps, back when women bought their family's meat at the butcher's. Was a pre- and plastic-wrapped pile of organ meat harder to take in supermarket aisles, thereby turning off more and more Americans in the 60s?

Maybe. Part of it is that he's been going to the farmers markets for so long that he knows and trusts the vendors/farmers to produce things he will eat. So he takes sauerkraut from North Mountain for lunch and heaven help us if we run out. And the "fermented veggie" stand is always our second stop at Takoma after the bison lady. The cheese vendors have all learned not to wave him off of spicy or strong cheeses. If Emily at Black Rock grows it, he'll eat it. But he's not quite 5. Tastes do change. The things he ate at 2 aren't the same as what he'll eat now. (except for mussels. He can eat his own weight in mussels.)

Dinner tonight--braised beef short ribs.

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Moving on from a reductive night to an over-worked night...

Thai pomelo salad

Thanks for the website, Fishinnards! I've been wanting to make this for a while, but this is the first time I've managed to gather up pomelos, unsweetened coconut, and all the other ingredients at one time. It's a great recipe and transported me back to Bangkok. But it's a bit tedious to make--lots of chopping and toasting, and taking apart that damn pomelo took forever. More of a pain than I thought, but totally worth it. This would be a huge hit at a dinner party.

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First home-cooked meal after the mini-moon!

Seared sirloin with a shiitake-red wine reduction with rosemary; mashed parsnips with leeks*; roasted broccoli with garlic; Côtes du Rhônd.

*this was a total "let's throw these ingredients at the wall and see what sticks"** endeavor; I had parsnips, I saw leeks at the store, and I thought, "Huh, that might work." I seasoned with lots of s&p, nutmeg, and thyme, and a little white wine before adding water, simmering, and then mashing to a rustic, well, smush. I think in future I'd add some veggie stock and throw the stick blender in there to get more of a purée. That said, the new husband ate every bite, so yay!

**if I'd actually thrown this dish at the wall, I think most of it would have stuck.

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Moving on from a reductive night to an over-worked night...

Thai pomelo salad

Thanks for the website, Fishinnards! I've been wanting to make this for a while, but this is the first time I've managed to gather up pomelos, unsweetened coconut, and all the other ingredients at one time. It's a great recipe and transported me back to Bangkok. But it's a bit tedious to make--lots of chopping and toasting, and taking apart that damn pomelo took forever. More of a pain than I thought, but totally worth it. This would be a huge hit at a dinner party.

It's worth the effort. I found some pomelos at Harris Teeter in December and made this using a combination of this recipe and Chef McDang's. It was fragrant and delicious, sweet, sour and hot. I found you need to eat it fairly soon after you make it, as it diminishes in quality the longer it sits. Now I want to make this again soon.

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It's worth the effort. I found some pomelos at Harris Teeter in December and made this using a combination of this recipe and Chef McDang's. It was fragrant and delicious, sweet, sour and hot. I found you need to eat it fairly soon after you make it, as it diminishes in quality the longer it sits. Now I want to make this again soon.

Pomelos seem to be everywhere right now--I saw a big pile at Whole Foods yesterday, and I got mine at the Giant last week. I had the leftovers for lunch today, and the texture definitely suffered, but the taste is still awesome. I also prepped the dressing, coconut, and peanuts for a whole batch but only made a half, so it will be easy to throw together a fresh salad some evening this week. Good stuff! Now if only the Giant or Whole Foods or anywhere convenient to Columbia Heights would only start stocking green papaya, I'd be a happy girl.

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Sandy Collins: blended Scotch, lemon juice, sugar, soda, garnished with an orange wheel and a maraschino cherry.

Omuraisu: steamed rice mixed with chopped roast pork, zucchini, and salsa, topped with a thin omelet and more salsa. The Japanese use ketchup in the rice and on top, but we were out, so we used the salsa instead.

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Mezze table for visiting relatives (2/3 are vegetarians):

olives, Bulgarian feta, Marcona almonds, sliced watermelon radish, hummus and pita chips

spiced carrot puree with dukkah (almonds, sesame seeds, coconut, cumin, coriander, salt, pepper all pan toasted and ground together into a powder)

whole wheat flatbread

baked homemade ricotta

roasted fennel and figs

charcoal-roasted smoky eggplant with pine nuts, yogurt and urfa pepper

mujaddarah (lentils, basmati rice and caramelized onions)

merguez meatballs (lamb/beef mixture)

minted yogurt

2008 Les Amis de la Bouissieres

Meyer lemon meringue tart (the crispy almond cookies I made for Christmas weren't a big hit at the time, but they made an excellent crumb crust)

cappuccini

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Chicken Divan (ish) over egg noodles. The (ish) come from sloppily throwing ingredients together for this dish after having to repurpose my fried chicken thighs. I had planned to make my chicken thighs in a creamy morel mushroom sauce, using dried morels*. While the morels were reconstituting in hot water, I seared the thighs, and when I pulled the mushrooms out of the water to chop them, I noticed that there was no perfume; no lovely morel odor whatsoever. In fact, they smelled like cardboard.

Crap.

I threw them out because I felt little confidence that going forward with my time, effort and ingredients would yield anything remotely similar to my favorite Springtime dish.

Blech.

Jacques Pepin, you're dead wrong about dried morels being better than fresh in this dish.

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Peking pork chops...

I'm no good at frying, so I didn't get the great texture on the pork that I think is important to this recipe,

Have you ever brined pork before throwing it in a pan? Try this from Judy Rodgers: pork chop brining. I find it's a good way to reckon with leaner meat. Disclaimer: I've never bought a tenderloin and know farmers who don't separate the tenderloin out when selling loin roasts. If you purchased the tenderloin specified in this recipe, it may be a matter of whether or not pounding to tenderize American pork works.

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I have been haunted by one of Lucy Vatel's many exquisite photographs for years--apparently five and almost a third of a sixth. Tonight I finally had the wherewithal to do something about it and made Soupe Auvergnate. Belle, n'est-ce pas?

Quite manageable and mignon with a two-portion, petite chou-chou. Unbleached cheesecloth and very narrow 1 1/2 Q pot. Leftover roasted chicken, Gold Ball turnip, thyme, a little leftover mashed, sweet potato, red onion, parsley, shitake, etc. Settled for crunchy toast since there was no good, crusty bread. Will definitely do this again.

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last night:

fideua: a paella made with fideo noodles instead of rice, consisting of a soffrito of onion, garlic, tomatoes and roasted red pepper, saffron, pimenton and cumin; instead of seafood, I used chorizo I'd charcoal grilled the other day and garbanzo beans.

salad of butter lettuce, mache, avocado and cucumber with Russian dressing.

leftover lemon tart

2010 Cousiño Macul antiguas riservas cabernet

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I did a chuck roast in a red wine braise after work last night but had to eat leftover chicken for dinner then. Tonight, braised beef, smashed potatoes and either steamed broccoli w/ lemon butter or sauteed arugula w/ garlic.

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Not a proper meal, but played around with things found at Dupont, including rye berries. I used them to make a warm salad with pecans, dried tart cherries, butter, a little maple syrup, a little lemon, s&p. Looking forward to leftovers for lunch today. Anyone else ever cook with rye berries?

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Anyone else ever cook with rye berries?

Someone who invested in an Italian hand-mill ran a bag of them through for me, processing them just enough to cut down the time required for making porridge. Nuttier, but not that much different from steel-cut oats for breakfast; at least without caraway seeds, flavor did not remind me of rye bread. Dollop of maple syrup, finely chopped walnuts.... (Home brewers are fond of the berries, too, of course.)

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Tuesday night:

Toasted baguette stuffed with with Gruyere, bacon and roasted garlic

Leftover chicken breasts

Parsley potatoes

Last night:

Salad (mache, frisee, cucumber, Campari tomatoes, Alfonso olives, radishes, bacon; vinaigrette)

Toasted baguette stuffed with Gruyere, bacon and roasted garlic

Breaded lamb loin chops

Leftover leek patties

Home fries (from leftover parsley potatoes)

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Fried rice: leftover jasmine rice, some meat from leftover red braised pork, sliced bitter melon, pickled mustard greens, garlic stems, egg, fish sauce, kecap manis, chopped garlic and fresh chillies, stir fried in rendered fat from the red braised pork and coconut oil. Served with raw napa cabbage, cucumber, Thai basil, cilantro, and lime wedges.

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Pomelo salad (yum som oo) (cashews, toasted coconut, fried shallots, raw shallots, poached chicken, coconut cream, tamarind, palm sugar, homemade roasted chili paste, fish sauce) raw napa cabbage, lettuce, cucumber, cilantro, Thai basil. Stir fried bitter melon with egg. Thai red rice.

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Fiery "fried" chicken

Sweet-spicy cabbage slaw

Steamed broccoli

Veggies came from the CSA and were really tasty - always fun when they outshine the protein. And I love any excuse to use my steamer, as it was the first thing my husband ever bought me, when we were VERY early in our "courtship" (no better word, really) in DC. :wub:

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That sounds really good. Can you point me at a recipe please?

Sure! In a nutshell: it's a chewy oatmeal cookie recipe, sub dried sour cherries (from Trader Joe's) for raisins, add a handful of sliced toasted almonds and sub almond extract for vanilla. I'll transcribe the recipe after the kids are in bed. :)

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Baked penne with sausage, tomato, and cauliflower

Multigrain baguette

Wish the sauce had been a bit thicker, but otherwise yummy - it was supposed to have heavy cream, but alas, that was the ONE thing that didn't make it into my grocery basket, so skim milk had to suffice.

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