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Dallas-Fort Worth, TX


alan7147

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More of an observation than a specific reflection/review...

Parmesan-spiked polenta croutons are a popular menu ingredient in this town.  Not sure if it's the gluten-free focus, ubiquity of corn, or a quiet uprising of alternative grain/vegetable/pseudocereal choices in the culinary Artist Formerly Known As Wheat.

Whatever the cause, I am a fan.

Perhaps a local producer that sells to restaurants?

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Perhaps a local producer that sells to restaurants?

I'd say "yes, good call", but the shapes and flavors vary widely from venue to venue.  Some offer the gloriously crunchy exterior and creamy interior from quick roasting after oil spritz, others appear from a deep fryer manifesting a different herb profile.  The granularity of polenta varies as well.  I'll investigate further and learn what's behind the scenes.

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Flying Fish, Multiple Locations

Flying Fish wants your business.

They want to see you at both of their Dallas locations, the one on Luther Lane in Dallas's Preston Center and at the one further north on Belt Line Road in Addison.

Although the restaurant wants your business, your GPS will vex you.  Somehow, the address of the Addison location results in the elusive "close but not arrived" outcome.  You'll wind up parking around the corner.  Far around the corner.  And if you've just given blood and the sun beats down on you like a condemned prisoner as you walk your quarter mile mistake, you'll be vexed by that there technology.

So do give blood, the gift of life.  Just don't park at the Addison Whole Foods afterwards in search of your lunch.  Instead park on Montfort Drive, driving past the restaurant first to confirm your location.

Counter service at both locations is from friendly and patient staff.  They'll cheerfully tell you their favorites, whether it's fried oysters, steamed crawfish, grilled shrimp, the gumbo, or one of the other choices from the ample menu.  The choices vary in size and depth between the different locations.  Grits and Gumbo ($7.99) and tender, moist, gratifyingly seasoned, fried frog legs ($10.99 for a dozen) are personal favorites from Luther Lane, but not available in Addison.  Tree-shaded outdoor seating is a feature in Addison, but not at Preston Center.  Shellacked trophy fish and decoy ducks adorn the walls of both locations.  You'll enjoy your casual, cornmeal-breaded everything on a picnic table or checkered plastic tablecloth.  There are frugal options throughout the menu, but aiming higher, you can easily spend $20 a person without beverages for casual food served in plastic baskets.  I've needed a hefty splash of Tabasco or a squeeze of lemon to enliven most fried selections.  Draft beer goes down easy served in frozen glasses ($2.75 - $3.75).  Grilled yellow squash and zucchini ($1.99, Preston location) are a highlight, a welcome charred counterpoint to the deep fryer's heaviness.

Portions are generous, and finding food of this type without a 20% gratuity can be a crave-filling value.  If you select your order to go, you'll receive a handwritten note from the packager, see enclosed picture.  It's an impressive gesture of accountability, indicating how important customer satisfaction is to their business.

Flying Fish has six other locations, from Fort Worth to Arkansas to Tennessee.

(the american red cross has dozens)

(which grows to thousands)

(if you count mobile donation drives)

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KMango, this is really interesting since Flying Fish, for 19 years, has been one of Seattle's best seafood restaurants:

http://flyingfishrestaurant.com/ It was actually named after the seafood stand in the Pike Place Market where fishmongers throw fish 10 or 15 feet from the display counter to where they are fileted and wrapped. Fascinating that someone in another part of the country can open a restaurant with the same name. Of course perhaps the Seattle restaurant didn't protect the name: how many Luigi's Italian restaurants or pizzarias are there in America?

I was just in Oklahoma City a week ago, one hundred and fifty miles north of you. On early Friday evening I went out to dinner and, seriously, thought for a moment that I should drive to Dallas.

Have you been to In-n-Out Burger yet?

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KMango, this is really interesting since Flying Fish, for 19 years, has been one of Seattle's best seafood restaurants:

http://flyingfishrestaurant.com/ It was actually named after the seafood stand in the Pike Place Market where fishmongers throw fish 10 or 15 feet from the display counter to where they are fileted and wrapped. Fascinating that someone in another part of the country can open a restaurant with the same name. Of course perhaps the Seattle restaurant didn't protect the name: how many Luigi's Italian restaurants or pizzarias are there in America?

I was just in Oklahoma City a week ago, one hundred and fifty miles north of you. On early Friday evening I went out to dinner and, seriously, thought for a moment that I should drive to Dallas.

Have you been to In-n-Out Burger yet?

Say hi next time!

No In-and-Out burger yet, but I did see the tallest amusement ride in the Western Hemisphere at the State Fair, see pic.

And a bird flew out of it as part of a raptor show.  Centimeters above my head, nearly gave me a new hair part.

Wowza, Lone Star State.

(have you been to flying fish in old town alexandria?)

(i once took over the karaoke bar there)

(in an inspired, and thankfully fleeting, moment)

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A close friend of mine sold the Texas Star. He's now my age and about to retire. He also sold the 255' tall coaster to Six Flags Texas and a whole slew of others. Perhaps most interesting is that his father was an open cockpit biplane pilot in the 1940's in Hungary. And his son sells roller coasters...

Sandor, my friend, is fearless and is almost always the first human being to go on one of his rides. Just him and the "water dummies." (Years ago there were sandbags.)

A business but a truly passionate one.

I completely forgot about Alexandria's Flying Fish!

...there was once a great oldies bar in Arlington (TX) called Studebaker's. In fact there was a great oldies bar in Tyson's called Studebaker's, too. Both are long, long gone.

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When I'm in Addison I'm eating on the company, usually with co-workers of varied palates.  I have spent many an evening at the Village on the Parkway in the last few months.  I hope the construction is almost over!  We usually make a trip to Kenny's Italian Kitchen (or Kenny's Wood Fired Grill).  I tend to spend my meal allowance on wine by the glass.  Scallops or Spinach & Salmon Salad are stand bys.  We go to Gloria's when we want to spice things up.  Margaritas and Chicken Enchiladas and Margaritas.  Someone planned a happy hour at Sherlock's - not good.  Beer was cheap enough but I couldn't eat with the cigarette smoke.  And one night I even made one of my co-workers walk with me from our hotel to Tutti Fruitti for frozen yogurt.  The yogurt and the toppings were good and there were plenty of places to sit outside and enjoy the not cool evening.  Maybe next time I will talk her into trying Flying Fish - thanks for the tip!

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Fred's Texas Cafe, 915 Currie St, Fort Worth, TX 76107

Rarely do I walk into a joint thinking "OK, this is straight out of an episode of Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives."  And even more rarely am I correct.  But I was.  Search engines confirm that back in 2008, Guy Fieri visited this restaurant and likely did the place proud.

Fred's Texas Café features a no-frills open space, a small menu renowned for its burgers, proudly proclaims "cold ass beer" on tap, and fills paper baskets with fan-building flavor.

Apparently, the publicity was good for tourism and business.  Fred's now has two locations in Fort Worth.  The original on the corner of Currie Street in the Cultural District will remind you of Key West, New Orleans, and your most recent tropical island beach shack experience.  This far inland, the long boards above the bamboo bar make no sense.  Form-fitting metal bar stools, straight from a Nine Inch Nails video, are inexplicably comfortable.  And how in the world a burger can taste so good in a no-frills, seat-yourself, indifferent service, open-air environment will likely remain a mystery.

At $11.50, the Diablo Burger sounds extravagant for a "Dive", but it's a mammoth 3/4 of a pound of beef.  It comes stacked with sliced, glistening red chipotles, diced sweet grilled onion, melted Swiss cheese, ridged slices of righteously assertive pickle, lettuce, tomato, mustard and mayo, alongside a massive stack of hand-cut, well-seasoned French fries.  I sheepishly counted, and it's a seven-napkin burger, even if cut in half to mitigate messiness.  The chipotles are deeply smoky and true to their spicy capsicum roots.  They leave a gratifying, racy kick long after the meal is finished.  This burger will remind you why smoked jalapeno became such a popular flavor, and how real-deal peppers with seeds and membranes left intact trump any approximated aioli, pan sauce, or other condiment conduit.

Live music happens most nights of the week at this location.  If you could snag a couple of stools near the trees, it would be marvelously fun, although crowded.  A visible hint of people-packing potential appears in snake-line stanchions wrapped around the entrance.  These stand empty during mid-afternoon, the venue mostly quiet, a drifting breeze from overhead fans unobstructed by droves of other patrons.

Once you've finished your meal, you can zip your car over to the nearby Botanic Garden or Forth Worth Nature Center.  Another option is to stick around the Cultural District on foot and enjoy an afternoon of museums.  As nightfall descends, the neighborhood lights up with entertainment from numerous businesses.  Among these is the chance for a return trip, and live soundtrack, to accompany a second open-air burger at Fred's.

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Fred's Texas Cafe, 915 Currie St, Fort Worth, TX 76107

Rarely do I walk into a joint thinking "OK, this is straight out of an episode of Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives."  And even more rarely am I correct.  But I was.  Search engines confirm that back in 2008, Guy Fieri visited this restaurant and likely did the place proud.

Fred's Texas Café features a no-frills open space, a small menu renowned for its burgers, proudly proclaims "cold ass beer" on tap, and fills paper baskets with fan-building flavor.

Apparently, the publicity was good for tourism and business.  Fred's now has two locations in Fort Worth.  The original on the corner of Currie Street in the Cultural District will remind you of Key West, New Orleans, and your most recent tropical island beach shack experience.  This far inland, the long boards above the bamboo bar make no sense.  Form-fitting metal bar stools, straight from a Nine Inch Nails video, are inexplicably comfortable.  And how in the world a burger can taste so good in a no-frills, seat-yourself, indifferent service, open-air environment will likely remain a mystery.

At $11.50, the Diablo Burger sounds extravagant for a "Dive", but it's a mammoth 3/4 of a pound of beef.  It comes stacked with sliced, glistening red chipotles, diced sweet grilled onion, melted Swiss cheese, ridged slices of righteously assertive pickle, lettuce, tomato, mustard and mayo, alongside a massive stack of hand-cut, well-seasoned French fries.  I sheepishly counted, and it's a seven-napkin burger, even if cut in half to mitigate messiness.  The chipotles are deeply smoky and true to their spicy capsicum roots.  They leave a gratifying, racy kick long after the meal is finished.  This burger will remind you why smoked jalapeno became such a popular flavor, and how real-deal peppers with seeds and membranes left intact trump any approximated aioli, pan sauce, or other condiment conduit.

Live music happens most nights of the week at this location.  If you could snag a couple of stools near the trees, it would be marvelously fun, although crowded.  A visible hint of people-packing potential appears in snake-line stanchions wrapped around the entrance.  These stand empty during mid-afternoon, the venue mostly quiet, a drifting breeze from overhead fans unobstructed by droves of other patrons.

Once you've finished your meal, you can zip your car over to the nearby Botanic Garden or Forth Worth Nature Center.  Another option is to stick around the Cultural District on foot and enjoy an afternoon of museums.  As nightfall descends, the neighborhood lights up with entertainment from numerous businesses.  Among these is the chance for a return trip, and live soundtrack, to accompany a second open-air burger at Fred's.

Really, really well written, kMango. An absolute pleasure to read. Thank you.

"...visible hint of people-packing potential appears in snake-line stanchions wrapped around the entrance."

Expressive, eloquent excellence.

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The hot food bar at El Rancho Supermercado, 14211 Coit Rd, Dallas, TX 75254

Fresh masa.  A phrase that instantly elevates the interest level and heart rate for fans of Mexican and Central American flavors.

Watching it made commercially is a glimpse into ho-hum industrial machinery.  Tasting the results is a glimpse into awe.

Web research often misleads in this part of the country.  My browser dutifully identified a handful of sources for fresh masa near Dallas.  El Rancho Supermercado won my attention due to co-location with a large supermarket and reportedly extensive hot foods selection.  This time, Internet authors did not lead me astray.  The Coit Road location of El Rancho is the largest, most exciting, most abundant Mexican grocery I have ever seen.

The supermarket's next-door neighbor is one of the largest outdoor furniture storefronts in the country.  This means an easy-to-find location with ample parking.  On this day, no storefront vendors roasted corn or dished up arroz con leche, but web reports indicate frequent sightings of both.

El Rancho's entryway yields a bakery on the right, hot foods on the left.  Shiny plastic picnic tables and self-service condiments (onion, cilantro, lime, several house-made salsas) allow shoppers to casually sate their hunger before they shop.   Customers can choose any tailor-made combination that appeals from this meat-focused variety showcase.  A tripe taco (pork, $1.39) was one of the best I have ever had, crispy-yet-chewy offal, overtly seasoned with reddish orange spice spackling.  Lengua tacos (beef, $1.39) were similarly satisfying, especially with multi-colored splashes from the salsa bar.  An important tip for shoppers turned diners:  bring hand sanitizer.  The bathrooms are around the corner, and you'll save yourself a trip after the condiment bar if you BYOB (bring your own bactericide).  And come prepared to break out your Spanglish--you'll have a friendlier experience if you can order and ask questions in Spanish.  Even if it's a choque de trenes, the staff prefer if you try, and they'll fill in any language gaps with an encouraging smile.

To accompany your gratifying fare, a nearby agua fresca bar features more than a half dozen selections scooped from wide, clear-glass barrels.   A medium-sized horchata (rice-based, $2.00) quenches the palate with pleasingly rich vanilla, cinnamon, and gentle sugar.  Other options vary, on this day highlighting a rainbow assortment of melon, guava, mango, papaya, and hibiscus. 

Shopping after a quick bite offers a more relaxed and less urgent, less task-oriented affair.  Meandering near the produce section, I took time to note the ongoing production of masa via giant bubbling vats and steel grinding of nixtamal.  For home tamale makers, coarse-ground masa and lard are available for inexpensive purchase (see enclosed, although lousy, pic).  White corn, yellow corn, flour, cactus, and other varieties of freshly made tortillas, varying daily, are available in diverse shapes and sizes.  A two-pound package of freshly made cactus tortillas cost $1.69, over 30 in the package.  Once home, these transformed into exceptional quesadillas, breakfast tacos, and Tex-Mex migas.

Bargain prices jump off the shelves at El Rancho.  Those seeking local, organic, sustainably raised or wild caught, or those adamantly avoiding rBGH, antibiotics, GMOs and pesticides, could choose to bypass the expansive vegetable, meat, and seafood selections throughout this massive store.  Those with such preferences, such as myself, should consider making a worthwhile exception for the treasure of fresh masa, savory hot foods and aguas frescas in this suburban supermarket for a mood-boosting flavor indulgence.

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Fred's Texas Cafe, 915 Currie St, Fort Worth, TX 76107

Fred's Texas Café features a no-frills open space, a small menu renowned for its burgers, proudly proclaims "cold ass beer" on tap, and fills paper baskets with fan-building flavor.

Do they still serve those beers in gigantic margarita-type glasses?  It's been 5 years since I was there, but that's what I recall about the place.  The beers were enormous.

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Do they still serve those beers in gigantic margarita-type glasses?  It's been 5 years since I was there, but that's what I recall about the place.  The beers were enormous.

I need a designated driver next time so I can find out!  What I sacrifice for science...

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On my first visit to the Dallas area since my partner started working here I wanted to have BBQ. Everything I read and heard suggests that Pecan Lodge in shed 2 of the Dallas Farmer's market is THE BEST in the area. I read that lines form outside the building well before it opens at 10:00a.m., even though Pecan Lodge does not serve until 11:00 a.m. So we left Addison at 8:15, unsure of traffic conditions on a Saturday and parking options at the market. The trip took only about 20 minutes and we easily found parking right next to shed 2. We wandered around the produce shed (OMG...can't wait till I return here for a dinner prep trip) and the wholesale shed (apparently the real action here is the wee hours of the morning when restaurants come to stock up).

The mesquite smoke from the smoker outside of Pecan Lodge begins to tantalize as you walk from shed 3 to shed 2, stoking a deep, primal craving for meat. We visited shed 2 again, to check for a line forming. Not yet...so we visited the lush and expansive nursery area, with so many blooming plants I've never seen and all kinds of landscaping shrubs. Lovely. We circled back to shed 2, and there were about 8 people lined up, some with camping chairs (Pecan Lodge pros). It wasn't quite 9:30 a.m. The smoke aroma was enveloping us. I was very hungry.

The waiting was a convivial celebration of smoked meat, with various folks of all colors, backgrounds and ages discussing BBQ with a reverence associated with Tom Landry and the enthusiasm one sees for college football. People described trips to Austin and Lockhart, re-lived details of various meals and cuts of meat, compared styles of famous BBQ establishments and generally opined on every aspect of the BBQ experience. This is important stuff in this part of the world, and as I overheard one enthusiast saying, "I can't imagine people up north standing in line for any kind of food. This is a SOUTHERN thing." And the line got longer and longer.

At 10:00 the doors to shed 2 opened, and the line re-formed in an fairly orderly fashion along the side of the Pecan Lodge serving area. Those with camping chairs sat down and the rest of us stood and chatted. Ironically, perhaps, the stall across from the Lodge sells natural, unprocessed juices, and promotes the heathful effects of the juice fast. No takers from the BBQ line. Shortly after 11:00, the first orders were taken, and I was soon to experience the best BBQ in Dallas. I was excited.

When it was finally our turn, we split the 3 meat plate: pork rib, pulled pork and the jalapenp/cheddar beef sausage with cole slaw ($16). Pecan Lodge is known for brisket, the quintessential Texas BBQ meat, but sweetie is not into brisket and so that will be an experience for another day. The special of the day was beef rib, the size of my arm. It was a popular item, 86ed by the 12th or 13th person who ordered. At Pecan Lodge, when it's gone, it's gone. Oh, and there was an offer of burnt ends.

At 11:30, we sat down with food. Yes, we waited a total of TWO hours, standing, for this plate. Can you imagine the magnitude of my expectations? The pulled pork was fabulous. The smoke was present, with a sweet note, but not overpowering so that the pork flavor was evident, too. The texture of the pork was good. Sometimes pulled pork is too soft. The sausage was juicy, with a snappy skin, but not too spicy. I would have liked more heat. Overall it was delicious, and were I to splurge on sausage, this would be a top candidate, just below a jalapeno/cheddar link from Kreuz. The let-down for me was the pork rib. The flavor was nice, much like the pulled pork, but the meat was very soft and practically fell off the bone; I llke a bit more chew or resistance on a rib. The slaw was excellent. Superfresh, crunchy, not over-dressed.

The final verdict? It was a fun, very "Dallas" experience, and had I not waited for two hours I would probably have been thrilled. Some folks in line admitted that the wait and the uncertainty about availabilty of popular items is just part of the Pecan Lodge experience. When I return, I will go on a weekday instead of a Saturday, and will bring a chair. I will order the brisket. I will remember that the cheese stall in shed 2 also sells ice-cold bottled beer, and that consuming said beer in the Pecan Lodge area is permitted. At 12:15, the line was as long as ever, and Pecan lodge had run out of the jalapeno cheddar sausages, too.

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An apt summation of the Pecan Lodge waiting game. Wednesdays and Thursdays are a little better, but not by a large margin, and if you want your choice of everything you'll still end up committing 1.5-2 hours from start to finish. Although since I've last been they've opened an express register for large orders only; I think I'd rather go that route and get a "trough" platter, since it comes with a beef rib (which can run $30-40 by themselves). 

Still...you need to order the brisket and a beef rib next time. The former is as good or better than any I had in Taylor or Lockhart, and a beef rib (which they have everyday) is better even than brisket. I prefer North Carolina pulled pork so none I've ordered in Texas has been that memorable. Agreed about the pork ribs.

It used to be possible to sneak in Shed 2 before 10 a.m., but new private ownership took over the market and halted that. A bit stupid to me, since the AC was a welcome respite from other barbecue lines around the state. "Ain't No Mo Butter" Cakes, right across from the Pecan Lodge stall, is a great choice for a mini bundt cake dessert before you leave though.

Oh, and the owners of Pecan Lodge have said they've been looking for another space for several months now.

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The hot food bar at El Rancho Supermercado, 14211 Coit Rd, Dallas, TX 75254

Fresh masa.  A phrase that instantly elevates the interest level and heart rate for fans of Mexican and Central American flavors.

Watching it made commercially is a glimpse into ho-hum industrial machinery.  Tasting the results is a glimpse into awe.

Web research often misleads in this part of the country.  My browser dutifully identified a handful of sources for fresh masa near Dallas.  El Rancho Supermercado won my attention due to co-location with a large supermarket and reportedly extensive hot foods selection.  This time, Internet authors did not lead me astray.  The Coit Road location of El Rancho is the largest, most exciting, most abundant Mexican grocery I have ever seen.

The supermarket's next-door neighbor is one of the largest outdoor furniture storefronts in the country.  This means an easy-to-find location with ample parking.  On this day, no storefront vendors roasted corn or dished up arroz con leche, but web reports indicate frequent sightings of both.

El Rancho's entryway yields a bakery on the right, hot foods on the left.  Shiny plastic picnic tables and self-service condiments (onion, cilantro, lime, several house-made salsas) allow shoppers to casually sate their hunger before they shop.   Customers can choose any tailor-made combination that appeals from this meat-focused variety showcase.  A tripe taco (pork, $1.39) was one of the best I have ever had, crispy-yet-chewy offal, overtly seasoned with reddish orange spice spackling.  Lengua tacos (beef, $1.39) were similarly satisfying, especially with multi-colored splashes from the salsa bar.  An important tip for shoppers turned diners:  bring hand sanitizer.  The bathrooms are around the corner, and you'll save yourself a trip after the condiment bar if you BYOB (bring your own bactericide).  And come prepared to break out your Spanglish--you'll have a friendlier experience if you can order and ask questions in Spanish.  Even if it's a choque de trenes, the staff prefer if you try, and they'll fill in any language gaps with an encouraging smile.

To accompany your gratifying fare, a nearby agua fresca bar features more than a half dozen selections scooped from wide, clear-glass barrels.   A medium-sized horchata (rice-based, $2.00) quenches the palate with pleasingly rich vanilla, cinnamon, and gentle sugar.  Other options vary, on this day highlighting a rainbow assortment of melon, guava, mango, papaya, and hibiscus. 

KMango...THANK YOU. We went to El Rancho today before I had to leave to return to life in Columbus. Barbacoa tacos at 1.39 each...all other tacos are dead to me now. The tortillas alone made the tacos better than any I've had in DC or Columbus. This is a fun place only 15 minutes from my partner's apartment. I would never have known if you hadn't posted about it. Some people might not be thrilled about lunch in a grocery store, and I guess I never want to be one of those people.
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I want to share some tidbits about my recent experiences in the Dallas area.

Addison, centered on the area around Beltline Road and the toll way, is restaurant central. This area is packed with various strip malls, all chock-a-block with places to eat. It's mind-boggling. I've never been anyplace quite like it. So far, we've tried:

Wild Chutney's Indian - There are some interesting things on the menu and everything we tried was tasty. Horrible wine selection. we were the only customers for about an hour, but the server assured us it gets crowded later at night.

Kenny's Grill - Friendly, crowded, definitely a local favorite. The steak was fine but what impressed was a crab cake appetizer the size of a softball. Fresh lump crab done perfectly. This is a place you can be comfortable in jeans or a fancy dress. There is lots of middle age PDA in the bar area, making me suspect that it is popular with the mature match.com crowd.

Momo's Italian - Excellent house-made pasta, but the salads were forgettable. Very nice service and a decent wine list.

Mercy Wine Bar - Lots of standards (seared tuna, flatbreads) made and plated with great care. Snazzy space with a cozy feel. Frequent live music (we heard a flamenco group). We did not eat a lot of dishes but are eager to return.

Taco cafe - A polished diner setting for respectable food. Good tacos. Prices are very reasonable. Good lunch spot.

Lazaranda - This was the only place we have had bad service. We felt extremely rushed, even though the restaurant was not crowded. My crab enchiladas (recommended by partner's coworker) were tasteless. On the other hand, the ceviche is amazing, and huge. would return solely for ceviche and a michelada.

El Fenix - because sometimes you just crave that lower-end, old style orange cheese TexMex. It's better than TexMex in other cities, but the complimentary salsa is bland and watery. Inexpensive.

Gloria's - Add some Salvadorean dishes to the TexMex standards, and pump up the atmosphere...Gloria's is the more refined and sophisticated version of the Dallas area TexMex chain. Gloria's salsa is spicy and complex. My favorite cheese enchilads con carne were perfect. Giant portions!

Whataburger - childhood favorite that tasted just the same as I remembered. When food is delivered to your table (you order and get a number, and then sit) the server brings a tray of condiment selections, presented with a flourish.

In-and-out - I got a single animal style, minus the spread. Given the size of the patties (small) and the amount of other stuff going on (lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, grilled onions) the beef just got lost. I think double double is the way to go...next time...

If you walk or bike the Katy Trail, which is a beautiful urban elevated path bullt from an old rail line, definitely stop in at Katy Ice House. It's a huge outdoor beer garden with fire pits and cornhole games and cold adult beverages. It's right on the trail with places to lock bikes and water stations for people and animals.

Uptown, we enjoyed a quick lunch at Hook, Line and Sinker, a casual order-at-the-window place with scrumptious fried seafood. Reminiscent of a place you'd find in a New Orleans suburban neighborhood, and that's a good thing.

I am looking for suggestions for pizza, Thai and Vietnamese, preferably in Addison. Thanks!

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"Addison, centered on the area around Beltline Road and the toll way, is restaurant central. This area is packed with various strip malls, all chock-a-block with places to eat. It's mind-boggling. I've never been anyplace quite like it."

Addison went "wet" in 1976, while the rest of Dallas was "dry".  This is an old article from Dallas Magazine that explains a bit of the history.   http://www.dmagazine.com/publications/d-magazine/2010/august/dallas-alcohol-vote-on-wet-and-dry-areas.

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"Addison, centered on the area around Beltline Road and the toll way, is restaurant central. This area is packed with various strip malls, all chock-a-block with places to eat. It's mind-boggling. I've never been anyplace quite like it."

Addison went "wet" in 1976, while the rest of Dallas was "dry".  This is an old article from Dallas Magazine that explains a bit of the history.   http://www.dmagazine.com/publications/d-magazine/2010/august/dallas-alcohol-vote-on-wet-and-dry-areas.

Thanks! It does explain why Addison has so many restaurants. Yay for us, since my partner lives on Addison Circle.
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Possibly heading to Garland, TX in a couple of weeks. You Texas folk have recommendations for Q spots for dinner?

Good barbecue usually doesn't exist after lunch time. Meshack's Barbecue Shack is right in Garland and a nice option -- one of the top four spots in the DFW area in my opinion. No seating though. Pecan Lodge (downtown Dallas) is still the best you can get here, although Lockhart Smokehouse (Oak Cliff) and The Slow Bone (Design District) have very good 'cue without the two hour wait. They often sell out before 3 p.m. though.

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This wretched winter weather followed me to Dallas, and when I arrived it was below freezing with light sleet. Here in Dallas, that kind of weather closes schools and keeps people from work. So the bar at the iconic Arthur's in Addison was empty at 5:30. This is a classic old-school steak house with an enormous dark bar, a wall of aquariums, fireplaces and club chairs cozied up to candle-lit cocktail tables. It's the perfect start on a cold evening. Add in happy hour pricing and live music (kind of cheesy. Older guy singing country-leaning classics accompanied by a synthesizer adding a kind of jazzy beat), and it moves to the top of places to unwind after work in this neighborhood. The only negative is that smoking (!) is allowed in certain bars, and Arthur's even allows cigars. So we had to stratgically choose our seats as far away from the smoker as possible.

It is then only a few blocks trip to Addison walk, the dining epicenter of Addison. We thoroughly enjoyed Canary last night, often touted as one of the best restaurants on the area. It is a small, spare space, bringing Komi to mind. There is no bar, no reception area and sufficient space between tables for quiet conversation, but it is in no way stuffy. The menu leans Mediterranean, and the wine list is eclectic and very reasonably priced. There is a fixed price option, but the regular menu was so very tempting that we just ordered a la carte. I had a lovely salad of bitter greens with veal bacon and parmesean cheese (veal bacon! what's not to love!). As I was tucking into the salad, the lovely and adorable chef Gorji (I had seen photos of him before) came trotting out of the kitchen holding a little metal cup. He giggled and said, "I have toasted the nuts for you," and sprinkled my salad with toasted pistachios. They weren't listed as ingredients on the menu and I wouldn't have missed them but it was such a great gesture. My partner had a wedge salad, which blew any existing expectation of this often boring salad out of the water. It had a large slice of proscuitto over a round "slice" of head lettuce, and thick rounds of charred jalapeno. We both had fish for mains. I had Arctic char over a sweet/sour mix of cauliflower, peppers, onions and other chopped vegetables. The fish had a great sear on the well-seasoned exterior and was moist and flaky. My partner had a gorgeous plate of grilled catfish accompanied by an artichoke salad, large slices of grilled carrot and grilled okra. She loved it. This place uses very good ingredients, treats them lovingly and avoids the all-too-common problem of over-salting.

Chef Gorji came out several times and greeted every table. We have never been before, but we received the same warm greeting as the folks who appeared to be regulars. Service was quietly efficient. There is no rush to turn the table. This is a wonderful place, very relaxing, and I can't wait to return. I would go so far as to call this a destination restaurant. It's not a bad trip from downtown Dallas, and easy from Plano and Richardson.

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Visiting Dallas/Fort Worth next month and wanted to get your opinions on the following places:

Casa Rubia

FT33

The Mansion Restaurant on Turtle Creek

Stampede 66

CBD Provisions

Smoke

Mostly "hot spots" that have received some form of critical acclaim. We're merely tourists, so I want to hit the cream of the crop.

For Fort Worth:

Rodeo Goat

Lonesome Dove Bistro

Woodshed Smokehouse

Revolver Taco Lounge

Lanny's Alta Cocina Mexicana

Thanks for any advice in advance!

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Visiting Dallas/Fort Worth next month and wanted to get your opinions on the following places:

Casa Rubia

The Mansion Restaurant on Turtle Creek

CBD Provisions

Rodeo Goat

Lonesome Dove Bistro

Revolver Taco Lounge

I haven't made it to the above yet (Casa Rubia hopefully soon), but thanks for the impetus to post some aging reviews from the others.

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In many ways, you can't escape Stephan Pyles in Dallas. Even when you're not eating at his restaurants, you're invariably eating from a chef who worked at his restaurants, or buying chocolate from his former pastry chef, or watching a reality cooking competition with a pair of his former employees talking about him. Stampede 66 was Pyles' reclamation of the spotlight in a way, proving that at 60 years old, he still could lead one of the hottest openings in the city.

Based on Pyles' West Texas upbringing, the dining room doesn't waste a moment reinforcing this: cowboy outfits for servers, a stunning blue sky installment overhead, and hokey signage. It's straddling campy and fun, but preferable to the cookie-cutter "recycled industrial" look that has taken over.

As far as the food goes, you can get your share of tamales, tacos, or overpriced bread and pickles. The tacos make for satisfying first bites, but don't merit a visit by themselves -- Dallas already has enough tacos to go around, authentic and otherwise. I'm also not big on the kitschy reworks, like a Frito-Chili Pie ($12) that takes the drunken classic out of 7-Eleven and into a professional kitchen. Pointless, like a chef's interpretation of a Doritos Locos taco.

Hidden among those typical choices are some real winners, though. Pyles is fantastic at mainstreaming offal, and Crispy pig's ears, candied apples, chorizo ($16) is the type of dish that converts those with trepidation. Slivers of pig ear were shatteringly crisp, and the accompanying salad a perfect counterpoint. Sweet, spicy and accessible -- a trio that Pyles has mastered to great effect in Dallas.

Sonofabitch 2014 ($16) is more aggressive, and even better. A call back to the cattleman stews of old, Pyles' version uses veal for his rich base, the end product studded with offal treasures. Liver, tongue and heart were all cooked perfectly. I don't seek out sweetbreads, but the crispy nuggets included were exceptional. Brussels sprouts petals and red onion add just enough balance.

Venison meatloaf with macaroni and cheese ($18), like most of the mains (fried chicken, brisket) was comparatively safe. Bacon-wrapped and grill-marked, the game flavor came in another easy-to-digest package. Fried Brussels sprouts for texture and a smoky puree round out the dish, aided by a decadent macaroni and cheese gratin. Not eventful, but satisfying.

Judging from the weekday crowds and my own experiences, Pyles has another success with Stampede 66. One note, however: while the service is often 95 percent wonderful, hiccups may occur in the accommodation of certain guests. Pyles has accrued many loyalists over his four decades in the city, which is great for him and them, and not so much for the newbies.

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In many ways, FT33 reminds me of Austin's own Barley Swine, with all the stereotypical differences associated between both cities.

Owned and operated by Chef Matt McCallister, FT33 arrived in late 2012, promising a dining experience yet unseen in the DFW area. McCallister has teased such promise before, particularly as the chef de cuisine at Stephan Pyles, where he helmed a special tasting menu that incorporated the latest and trendiest techniques. After doing the "stage collection tour" at Alinea, minibar, Vetri and McGrady's, McCallister returned with full autonomy: there are tweezers, there are iSi canisters, there are entrees plated entirely along the edge of the dish with enough negative space to question their $30+ prices.

Cobia crudo, carrot miso, lime, serrano, spiced peanuts ($14) -- The cobia was nice enough, and the dots of carrot miso puree and serrano would've made it successful (way too many salted peanuts though). Unfortunately, someone thought putting all these components on a one-inch wooden plank would be an improvement. The result was an Olympic-style, balance beam competition to see if you could get a competent bite onto the fork.

Radishes five ways, lardo, spring onion crème fraiche, bread crumbs ($12) -- Making the radish a starring ingredient is definitely bold, but this came off as incomplete. The lardo was fine but added surprisingly little, while some of the radishes were simply cut too large, seemingly out of proportion because they needed to support the structure of the presentation. Needed another element.

Beets, strawberries, puffed quinoa, sorrel, whipped buttermilk ($13) -- Really good if you're not already tired of beets. Yellow and red beets are poached in white and red wine, respectively, and the crunchy quinoa / foamed buttermilk plays nicely. Goat cheese is thankfully omitted.

Ricotta dumplings, spicy duck meatballs, charred wild onion, chives, pea tendril puree and ricotta salata ($16) -- Best course of the night, and not coincidentally the simplest. In fact, the best bet on any visit to FT33 will be the pastas, which are done without the superfluous touches.

Since my dated visit (sans entrees, which didn't look intriguing enough for their $32-$45 charges), FT33 has added a weekday tasting menu upon request, which seems promising in the pictures I've seen. And locals who eat at more restaurants than I do seem to really rave about the place, so I'll probably be back soon.

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If you can navigate the byzantine construction routes and small army of tax collectors in police uniforms, Lanny's Alta Cocina Mexicana is a worthwhile reward in Fort Worth.

Going on its ninth year, chef Lanny Lacarte (great grandson of Joe T. Garcia) has developed a style that is part Mexican, part Mediterranean, and joined together with French technique. The menu is set up for a la carte, but the tasting option ($60) is tough to pass up for value.

Medjool date stuffed with goat cheese and wrapped in chorizo starts the meal, curiously arriving in a multi-pronged holder best known from Alinea. I suppose Lacarte just liked the aesthetic, since his cooking isn't similar at all. Regardless, a pleasant amuse.

Green pozole, quail croquette was next, a comforting edition of the classic. I have little pozole expertise but taken solely as a soup course, well done. Quail croquette was a nice addition. Seared scallop, braised oxtail, celeriac and peas was interesting; the scallop was not the best quality, but I don't believe it mattered when up against a bully like oxtail. Celeriac and peas balanced the richness. Focaccia with olive oil emerged at this point, oven-warm and really delicious. Amped up by the spiced dipping oil.

Lemon sole, kale, eggplant and tomatillo was my favorite dish of the night, showing off the full repertoire of Lacarte's cooking. Ratatouille, tomatillo sauce and fried kale was an intriguing and winning trio, aided by the smallest bits of bacon. A perfect combination of all the sensibilities shown prior. Duck breast, spelt and butternut squash risotto was a comedown from the previous dish; well-executed if not as exciting.

Key lime goat cheese cake, raspberry beet puree finished the meal simply and to my preference (not too sweet). Followed by a Mexican shortbread cookie with the check.

From what I understand the intimate dining room gets quite full on weekends, but go on a Tuesday or Wednesday and you can often have an entire section to yourself. I wish I lived a bit closer to visit regularly, because his latest menus always "read" amazingly (foie gras chile relleno?!).

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After a "return to DC" dining adventure I accompanied my partner to Dallas for the remainder of my spring break. We ate at home for a few days to be sane adults, as we indulged so much in DC, but by Saturday I knew we would have a food adventure. Lockhart smokehouse recently opened a branch in Plano, which is not too far from us and offers much easier parking than much of Dallas proper. I had heard about lines that move quickly and a friendly atmosphere, but otherwise had no idea about "the drill." As I reportd upthread, the entire Pecan Lodge experience requires a high degree of commitment and at least half a day.

Downtown Plano retains a lot of old Texas charm, and Lockhart is centrally located on the main drag. It took over a space on an old building, next to an antiques store, so the setting seems historic even though the restaurant is new. There is a long bar along the West wall, and tables in the middle and in a loft space upstairs. The line forms along the east wall. There is a large board listing what's available. You order at a counter where you can see the workers cutting the meat. Your order is placed on butcher paper and you find a table to eat. Sauce and condiments (pickles, jalapenos, pickled onions) are available on a table at the end of the bar.

The friendly folks in line informed us that it was OK to order a drink at the bar while waiting in line (thanks, yes!) and offered their view that the Plano location was different than the Dallas location (Plano less spicy but no less flavorful). They explained that you order exactly what you want...one or two slices of something...and if you aren't sure the pitmaster will give you tastes. They also shared their opinions about the best meats. We felt fully prepared when it was our turn, after a pleasant 15 minute wait in line (about 1/4 of a beer).

We ordered 1/2 pound of lean brisket, three pork ribs, a jalapeno kreuz sausage, slaw and the daily special of habanero mac and cheese. The brisket was out of this world. It had a dark bark, and the smoke was pronounced, but the fatty, beefy flavor was clear. It was very tender, but not mushy or stringy. It was one of the most flavorful pieces of beef I have ever had. The pork ribs far surpassed the ribs at Pecan Lodge.,They had a very bacony flavor and were juicy, but after the brisket, the ribs just couldn't compete. I liked the sausage but we ended talking half of it home because it was a bounty of meat. The slaw, with a mellow blue cheese dressing, was great with the brisket. The mac n cheese was very spicy, and good enough, but with all that meat fat something crunchy is necessary. Also on the menu: chicken, pork chops, shoulder, turkey and a special of beef tenderloin.

The pitmaster, Will, a tall, tattooed and pierced smiling presence, chatted with us for a while as we ate. Fascinating guy! PhD in literature who is passionate about this business. He is charming, and even bought us a second round of beers. He spoke with lots of customers and I heard him comp a dessert for someone who was disappointed that their preferred dessert wasn't on offer.

The line was steady the entire time we were there, but no one ever had difficulty finding a table and the vibe was relaxed and completely unpretentious. Local beers are offered on tap along with a full bar. While comparisons are likely to be contentious, I give the hands-down win to Lockhart. The entire experience was customer-friendly and the food was deliciously memorable.

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Bar Fun Dining (BFD), Robertson Creek Shopping Center, 2499 & Dixon, Flower Mound, Texas 75028

After moving halfway across the country, we spun the wheel of fortune hoping to find a regular haunt for casual weeknight meals.  Our tactic was to stumble blindly into a random shopping center that may feature several restaurants, and venture into the one that looked the least like a chain.  Web reviews and social media are not as reliable in this part of the country, but we always ran a quick search to ensure no one reported food poisoning, service concerns, or high probability of violent hostage-taking situations.  Thus we found Bar Fun Dining (BFD).

Our first impression was of a brightly lit, cheery, miniature Dave & Busters.  We found out later that the owner is a former CEO of SEGA, and executive of Dave & Busters, so the concept is no surprise.   When you enter the self-seating venue, turn left and sit in the alcove featuring booths and tables or move a bit further back and saddle up to the bar.   The acoustics will reward you, this is generally not a loud venue, even when more crowded during Thursday's Poker Night.  You may see far fewer games than a Dave & Busters, but you'll have much better food.

Too many restaurant renditions more closely resemble mushy cactus than savory snack, so you'll find BFD's grilled, marinated artichoke ($7) may rekindle your love affair with the globed bud.  You'll note depth of seasoning from the brine, smoke from the grill, and piquant Dijon mayonnaise that complements rather than covers the thistle's glorious contribution to dining delicacies.

Chicken and waffles ($11, and yes, trite alert from 2008!) is executed effectively here, the eponymous ingredients, anyway.  BFD serves their rendition in the nostalgic paper cone within a wire frame embracing two dipping sauces.  Do yourself a flavor favor and order honey mustard instead of the southern gravy that chills too far quickly for sustained enjoyment.  The crispy waffle, maple syrup, and juicy fried chicken will otherwise hit the spot.

Pork deviled eggs ($8) are barbecue smoky, fried-onion crunchy, gratifying half-moons.  We have ordered these several times, and the dish has arrived once or twice with a bit too much molasses in the housemade bbq sauce atop the generous pulled pork.  The plate is always gone quickly, however, and the friends we have introduced to it always proclaim this appetizer a new favorite.

Without exception, French fries are masterfully executed here.  The loaded fries ($7) are a meal of their own with house made Blue Cheese dressing on the side.  Fries accompanying other dishes always arrive piping hot, crisp, and ideally salted.  Bee Sting wings ($7) are similarly consistent, smoky intermingling pleasantly with honey, never over or undercooked, well worth enjoying while watching a game at the bar.

Less successful here are the pasta dishes.  Blacked chicken pasta lacked luster, no flavors of note with slightly overcooked linguini.  The same was true for the mac and cheese side dish.  Both are an apparent afterthought of technique from an otherwise careful kitchen.    

Daily specials run the gamut from seafood to flatbread to meat-forward appetizers (Swedish meatballs, chicken wings in house-made sauces).  A recent Ahi Tuna Salad ($9) featured gorgeous Mesclun lettuce, sharp wasabi and soy flavors with a smartly, although likely propane-torch assisted, seared exterior.  The Baked Goat Cheese with Crostini ($7) appetizer would suit better as a heroic dessert, savory-yet-sweet with an edge of honey counteracting chevre's signature tartness.

Regarding beverages, a sole, lonely tap resides at BFD.  A bartender mentioned plans to expand their selection, and the venue makes up for it in the meantime by offering numerous bottled and canned selections with familiar names such as Oskar Blues, Rogue, Ska, Dogfish, Stone, New Belgium, and Laguintas.  Not listed on the drink menu is the "Miles High", a refreshing red grapefruit martini named during the week of the Pot Bowl Super Bowl, along with the name of it's bartender creator (Miles).  Other mixed drinks options are abundant, and the menu features a handful of house-recommended cocktails with local flavors such as jalapeno, seasonal fruit, and herbs.

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If you find yourself in Fort Worth, put AF+B on your short list of restaurants to try. The crispy quail with sorghum hot sauce is worth the price of admission. We also enjoyed the chorizo scotch eggs, deviled crab, and dry aged ribeye with sauce bordelaise.

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Charm Juk, 2625 Old Denton Rd, Ste 302, Carrollton, TX 75007

(972) 245-6288

It's raining in North Texas.

This morning's forecast called for an all-day rain.  A delicious, long-drenching, life-affirming, sustained-soaking shower from the benevolent heavens.  This is a rare and wonderful event.  The occasion called for jook (juk), soothing rice porridge.

So into the kar (ha! anagram for ark!) I floated.  I navigated to Koreatown in Carrolton.  I originally craved ddeokbokki spicy rice cakes, but the venue serving it, and that would honor my half-off Groupon, was not destined to open until much later in the day.  A quick re-direct to nearby Charm Juk quickly warmed any chill of disappointment.

Charm Juk sits adjacent to a massive, bustling, impressively excessive Super H Mart, one with an astoundingly iconic selection of seafood, a topic of a future posting.  That abundance gave me confidence in Charm's menu, given their direct pipeline to daily deliveries.

The restaurant layout portrayed clean, neat rows of tables with shiny black lacquer chairs.  The welcoming smile of the server offering me a hearty cup of barley tea pushed the waves of rain a million miles to somewhere else.  Jook of every variety, from savory to sweet to indulgent, gleamed off the menu.  Pumpkin, red bean, abalone, chicken, pork, kimchi, oyster, black sesame, mung bean, octopus, a wide range of ingredients to suit many tastes.  This would be an excellent option for a group of friends to sample diverse flavors by borrowing scoops from a neighboring bowl.

Selections are not inexpensive for rice porridge ($8 - $17), but portion sizes are huge.  Based on my order today and the plates I saw leaving the kitchen, the prices also reflect high quality ingredients.

I adore the flavors, heat, crunch and addictive chewiness of Korean noodles and porridges.  I would enjoy them far more often if organic, pesticide-free, or additive-avoiding ingredients were on regular rotation.  So I just about flipped out of my chair when I encountered a section of the menu devoted to jook made from organic rice.  I was sold so quickly on the organic rice Abalone ($15.99) that I tapped my foot in anticipation, in time with the pouring rain.

My impatience received rich reward.  A platter containing an immense bowl of jook, three marinated vegetable banchan (mung bean sprouts, shitake mushrooms, and sliced Korean peppers), chopsticks and spoon nestled into a sculpted utensil holder arrived with a humble bow.  I did need to ask for chili sauce for some heat, and I also needed to ask for kimchi for a palate-cleansing crunchy pop.  But once those flavor boosts were brought into the mix, this meal was exceptional satisfaction defined.

I'll be back.  I'll enjoy.  I won't wait for rain.    

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Steak 101 Class

Local Yocal Farm to Market, 213 N. Tennessee Street, McKinney, TX, 75069

http://localyocalfarmtomarket.com/

Half a dead cow, check.

Wickedly sharp knives, check.

Steady hands, check.

Precision high-skill butchering, check.

Sturdy metal grill assembled by local fire fighters, check.

Half-log hardwood charcoal, check.

Chimney starter, check.

1100+ degree heat, check.

Infrared gun to monitor the temperature, check.

20 cuts of beef to try from 3 differently raised breeds, check.

Odds of returning 110%, check check check.

The website understates the treat you have in store. Steak 101 at Local Yocal Farm to Market offers a highly entertaining, often educational, exceedingly flavorful, firmly unapologetic preaching of the gospel for high quality foods.

It left me saying "amen, brother friend" more times than I could count.

The class begins outside, surrounding building-shaded picnic tables. One of many surprises was the opening announcement of the BYOB policy. We jealously noted several patrons enjoying Bloody Mary cocktails planted on the table like refreshingly naughty poppies.

After a heartfelt lecture on similarities between mass production tactics and evil incarnate, the class herds into the cutting room to watch masters break down a half carcass. The butchers narrate each cut of beef in expert detail. They reveal common marketing schemes and deceptive practices, such as the packaging of "beef tender". Markets arrange and label this in a way to lure unsuspecting shoppers into believing it's a value-priced beef tenderloin. Later that evening, the purchaser blames the innocent griller's lack of skill for a shoe-leather-gone-wrong experience, when braising is the only way to salvage that cut. Other topics include the 120 strands of DNA typically found in mass-market, low-quality ground beef and the corresponding increased risk of pathogens. Don't despair, dear meat eater reader! Grinding your own beef or more carefully selecting your purveyor is the way to pass go and not collect gastrointestinal terror.

Beef arrives at Local Yocal without growth hormones, routine antibiotics, or other large-scale/cost-cutting practices of high volume producers. The display case reflects an astonishing level of butchering skill, coming from either:

  • 90% Angus as verified through blood tests, well exceeding the 51% visually assessed certified Angus "standard", a topic covered during the class
  • Grass fed/finished heritage breeds, demonstrating exceptional nutritional benefits, but with a flavor that is not for everyone, or
  • American Wagyu. The 12-level Japanese beef grading system is a topic of the class, as is the pandemic mislabeling of Kobe

After the opening and butcher floor lectures, participants eagerly return outside for the grilling and tasting session. Grilling dos and don'ts are emphasized. Propane is profaned while searing heat radiates from half-log hardwood charcoal.

And then, glorious of all glorious conclusions"¦each patron gets to sample at least 20 tastes of various steaks and sausages! Ribeye, flat iron, strip, brisket, tenderloin, hanger, spinalis, and other cuts appear in a masterpiece theater of beef. All are red and juicy, aligned with the Local Yocal slogan "there are only three kinds of meat---rare, medium rare, and ruined." <insert gasp of burnt despair here>

Most cuts are seasoned only slightly with salt and pepper before hitting the heat. The house-made spice rub makes a cameo on a cutlet or two. Every single taste was epic and memorable, a bright bulb reminder of how beef should be, used to be, needs to be. One show-stopping favorite is grilled bone marrow, especially when slathered on the "McKinney" steak, the butcher's local carving invention.

If you are squeamish about sharing bites from a cutting board with strangers, read Gulp before you go, and brush up on the miracle power of your own saliva. In fact, Gulp warrants it's own posting on this board, if it's not here already"¦

Groupon runs half-off specials for this normally $40, mind-broadening, palate-impressing, three-hour experience. Outside of the class, Local Yocal is a week-long farmer's market, portraying their butcher's best along with honey, chicken, dairy, and bread from local purveyors. A specialty not to miss is the butcher shop's Ring of Fire beef sausage, encapsulating ghost peppers and a nearly hallucinogenic level of heat. What's not a mirage, however, is the unmistakable flavor difference of local foods raised honorably, and the treasure trove that is Local Yocal.

---

Edited 5/3 to add...

Here is an informative interview with the teacher of the class, and owner of Local Yocal, Matt Hamilton.

This is well worth reading for insights into Japanese vs. American beef grading systems, seasonality of beef, what Certified Angus really means, etc.

http://www.tmbbq.com/interview-matt-hamilton-of-local-yocal-market/

(moderator, feel free to merge this comment into the end of my original post)

(danke)

(danke)

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We did a lot of repeats on this visit. Lockhart Smokehouse continues to impress. Tried their specialty shoulder clod. It's very lean and beefy, with a more firm texture than the brisket. The bartender gave us a 1/4 chicken "just to taste" and it was fabulous. When he heard it was my birthday, he brought out the s'mores bread pudding. Holy decadence. I would just never think to order this but it was so much fun. I ate half there and the other half warmed up beautifully thr next day. Lazaranda was fine for ceviche and a chelada at the bar. And then some wine, since it was still so hot out and we were walking to and from. Canary was a delightful as last time. While we were there we saw a card for a wine and pizza tasting on Monday, so we signed up for that. Mercy Wine bar is still a great choice for a good list, pleasant service and happy hour pricing.

The notable new things we tried: The Nasher sculpture garden and museum. A beautful space with a great permanent collection. If you are a fan of sculpture and architecture you must check this out. We then took a 6 minute drive over the stunning new Margaret Hunt Hill bridge oved the Trinity River to Trinity Groves. This area is the new entertainment district which will soon be linked for walkers and cyclists to the north side of Dallas when the old bridge is finished its tranformation to a delightful pedestrian walkway. The ped way wasn't open yet, and it was barracaded, so we could only see part of it, but the views of the Dallas skyline are post-card pretty and the space itself is very nicely appointed with seating, lighting and graphic designs on the pavement.

The south end of the pedway drops you at Trinity Groves, which is centered on a complex that appears to be partly new construction and partly reimagined warehouses and industrial spaces. There are spaces for about 10 restaurants, and all but one or two were open or nearly open, including Amberjax (seafood), a morrocan place, a chinese/texas fusion place (buns with barbacoa), some modern american bistro, farm to table places, a baked potato restaurant...There is a huge BBQ place across the street, and a micro-brewery (of course) next door, Four Corners. The spaces all have large covered patios, and a lower area filled with adirondack chairs. There are at least three huge, free surface parking lots, but I bet that when the area gets popular, parking will become more challenging and/or expensive. The area immediately surrounding Trinity Groves is a bit dicey but I see gentrification coming...with all the money being poured into the Trinity River restoration, the pedestrian walkway (it is really quite impressive), and Trinity Groves, plus the skyline view, high rise condos and Starbucks are sure to follow.

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Between KMango and dcandohio, we're going to need to start a Dallas / Fort Worth forum soon.

If I were here more frequently...when I AM here, I'm usually here for 5 days or more so I try many places, but my regular semester work schedule makes frequent travel unlikely...but I will post when I am here!

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Uncle Julio's: perhaps no better here in Dallas than other locations? In short, for the same prices get more well executed and plated food at Gloria's. The Keller Springs location is close to us, in a far less frenetic location than the closest Gloria's, but we won't be back.

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We did a lot of repeats on this visit. Lockhart Smokehouse continues to impress. Tried their specialty shoulder clod. It's very lean and beefy, with a more firm texture than the brisket. The bartender gave us a 1/4 chicken "just to taste" and it was fabulous. When he heard it was my birthday, he brought out the s'mores bread pudding. Holy decadence. I would just never think to order this but it was so much fun. I ate half there and the other half warmed up beautifully thr next day. Lazaranda was fine for ceviche and a chelada at the bar. And then some wine, since it was still so hot out and we were walking to and from. Canary was a delightful as last time. While we were there we saw a card for a wine and pizza tasting on Monday, so we signed up for that. Mercy Wine bar is still a great choice for a good list, pleasant service and happy hour pricing.

The notable new things we tried: The Nasher sculpture garden and museum. A beautful space with a great permanent collection. If you are a fan of sculpture and architecture you must check this out. We then took a 6 minute drive over the stunning new Margaret Hunt Hill bridge oved the Trinity River to Trinity Groves. This area is the new entertainment district which will soon be linked for walkers and cyclists to the north side of Dallas when the old bridge is finished its tranformation to a delightful pedestrian walkway. The ped way wasn't open yet, and it was barracaded, so we could only see part of it, but the views of the Dallas skyline are post-card pretty and the space itself is very nicely appointed with seating, lighting and graphic designs on the pavement.

The south end of the pedway drops you at Trinity Groves, which is centered on a complex that appears to be partly new construction and partly reimagined warehouses and industrial spaces. There are spaces for about 10 restaurants, and all but one or two were open or nearly open, including Amberjax (seafood), a morrocan place, a chinese/texas fusion place (buns with barbacoa), some modern american bistro, farm to table places, a baked potato restaurant...There is a huge BBQ place across the street, and a micro-brewery (of course) next door, Four Corners. The spaces all have large covered patios, and a lower area filled with adirondack chairs. There are at least three huge, free surface parking lots, but I bet that when the area gets popular, parking will become more challenging and/or expensive. The area immediately surrounding Trinity Groves is a bit dicey but I see gentrification coming...with all the money being poured into the Trinity River restoration, the pedestrian walkway (it is really quite impressive), and Trinity Groves, plus the skyline view, high rise condos and Starbucks are sure to follow.

http://www.dmagazine.com/publications/d-magazine/2011/may/the-best-steakhouses-in-dallas-01 is a really interesting article from D magazine where they obsessively searched for the best steak house in the Dallas area.  Their conclusion was Pappas Bros. which I agree with. I also like Papasito's for large scale Tex Mex although over the years I found a number of dumps that I absolutely loved.  I'm also a huge fan of Stephen Pyles.  This is their review of his restaurant, Stampede 66, which opened last year:  http://stampede66.com/press/  

I should mention that a new steakhouse called "Knife" is one of the most significant restaurant openings in Dallas in a while.

And, don't forget there are now almost a dozen In-n-Out Burgers in the greater Dallas area.  You want a four x four animal style with extra crispy fries and a Neopolitan shake.

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If you've eaten out in the Dallas area, you've probably tasted the work of Village Baking Company. For the last decade, the family-run business has added a French touch to the underdeveloped local bakery scene, mostly through wholesale to numerous restaurants, hotels, and weekend farmers market visits. As enjoyable as their breads are (I really like the Kalamata olive loaf), the small retail space they opened two years ago -- and all the classic French pastries made available there -- is the best way to experience their offerings.

Prefaced by my limited knowledge of the highest French standard, everything eaten has been either delicious or more delicious. Rich, flaky palmiers ($3) that sometimes come two-for-one if you have trouble gaining bad weight. Very good almond croissant ($3.50). Specials like an apricot galette ($3.50), which was perfect. Beautifully caramelized and moist-inside financiers ($3.50). Kouign amanns ($3.50) with more butter than seems possible. And their canele ($3) is worth a visit by itself -- one of the best bites anywhere.

It's not really a proper retail space, just a small section connected to their baking warehouse, and only wide enough for a person to look at the long counter stacked with rows of enticement. Seating is two outdoor picnic tables directly in the sun, and the parking lot is a small death trap"¦but they keep improving everything else, with longer hours than before (7 a.m. until 7 p.m.), drip coffee from Cultivar (the best roasters in Dallas), and an always personable, patient staffer. One of the simplest and best breakfasts in the city.

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Chef Gorji of Canary hosted a wine tasting and pizza sampling last night for $25/person plus tax and tip. He is a delightful person who clearly enjoys his craft. He was shouting "welcome, welcome!" as people arrived and he visited with everyone as he served pizzas. There were four wines, a Torrontes and three reds, of which a Tempranillo from the Douro (Spain) stood out. He served four pizzas, on crackery crusts with simple ingredients...a gorgonzola sauce with mushrooms and arugula, pomodoro sauce with tiny chunks of pancetta, pomodoro with mozzarella and basil, and a fourth that is escaping me. Anyway, we sat at a table of lively and convivial folks, all strangers, having a delightful conversation with Chef Gorji's food and hospitality as the common bond. Turns out that one of our tablemates graduated from Ohio State (my employer) and one had lived in DC and so inevitably we all compared the food scenes of all the places we knew in common. It was a perfect way to celebrate a Monday!

Chef Gorji has a line of sauces (his pomodoro is very popular) in retail stores, perhaps only regionally, that he says sell very well. I suspect the sauces arre the real cash cow, as Canary is a tiny place that doesn't seem to try to turn tables quickly, even on weekends. It has survived for 11 years in the traffic-clogged, strip-center insanity that is Beltline Road at the toll road, in a non-descript corner storefront. He must have a loyal following because there are about 50 places to eat right around him (I'm not exaggerating, though lots of casual chains abound). If Canary was in DC there would be lines out the door hoping for tables.

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For those in a certain tax bracket, pulling into the lot of the 30-year-old Rosewood Mansion at Turtle Creek can be intimidating. Rows of luxury vehicles surround the entry, with a parade of incoming and outgoing traffic resembling every Dallas stereotype come to life. A gaudy sight broken up by approaching valets, who make sure you haven't gotten lost on your way to Mattito's.

Yet after reservations are confirmed and your car whisked away to a dark corner away from the McLaren, the experience is nothing but warm -- excellent service that marks every interaction with the staff. The dining room helps with the comfort level: well-spaced, white tablecloths gone but not missed, a somewhat lax dress code, and relatively festive patio for those glimpses of spring and fall in Texas.

Out of sight is a kitchen led by Bruno Davaillon, who held a Michelin star as the executive chef of Ducasse's Mix in Vegas and has worked in numerous starred French establishments. His menus reflect that pedigree, heavy in classical preparations and luxury ingredients, but with room to add flourishes from outside tradition. An asparagus tasting menu ($75) -- one of five tastings offered each dinner service -- seemed an appropriate introduction to Davaillon's cuisine, selected for its nod to a personal favorite ingredient.

First though was The Mansion G&T (86 Co. Ford's Gin, house-made tonic, kaffir lime leaf and grapefruit zest / $16), which was as good as any I've had, and happily nursed throughout the entire meal. Perfunctory bread service (lavash, onion rolls and mini baguette) followed, before a chilled amuse of white asparagus soup kicked off the courses as a de facto palate cleanser.

The proper opener of scallop, veloute, asparagus and roe was another cold dish, but amped up significantly in flavor. Bite-sized raw scallop and trout roe paired perfectly with a superb asparagus veloute; the latter balanced between rich and freshness deftly. Next up was white asparagus, yuzu, hollandaise and sorrel, a classic combination with a few of those aforementioned flourishes. Proudly announced as imported from Holland (overindulgent, or a middle finger to the crazy seasonality of the home state), two jumbo asparagus spears were either braised or sous-vide, flanked by clouds of airy hollandaise. Another vegetable-forward dish with satisfying richness.

The flawless risotto, prawn, asparagus and chive course was one of those welcome reminders that while I can cook risotto, I lack the advanced technique and resources of a fine-dining kitchen to make one such as this. An array of high-quality ingredients and skill that is out of my reach and thus, enviably enjoyable. The best course of the tasting and one of my favorites of this half year.

Spring chicken, burrata, asparagus and piquillo was the most unexpected combination of the night. Roasted chicken dusted with a fresh parsley crust, the creaminess of fresh cheese, sharp 25-year-old balsamic and tangy peppers seemed haphazard, but it worked for me.

Finishing the meal was semifreddo, rhubarb, vanilla and pistachio. A dessert right in my wheelhouse, with textures (pistachio crumble) and acids (balsamic again) that closed the tasting aptly. Triangles of chocolate and hazelnut and an acceptable cup of French press were left to enjoy while signing the check, a relative value for the level of service, setting and cooking.

As a hotel property responsible for daily breakfast, lunch and dinner, nightly tastings, a la carte and a separate bar menu, the precision of a Sunday night tasting menu was impressive -- especially since it's supposedly Davaillon's day off. "Comfort" fine dining at a classic institution, recommended for at least one special occasion.

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Ever since the privatization of the Dallas Farmers Market a year ago, the owners of Pecan Lodge have been looking for a standalone restaurant space. Rumors popped up as to their next home base (Pecan Lodge in the suburbs? A long line *and* highway traffic?), but they finally settled on a location not too far from the original, in the adjacent neighborhood of Deep Ellum. They made the transition at the end of last month, and as three-year patron, it's a much improved experience.

The "industrial country" interior feels like it's already been there for years. There's a bar now. There's a patio. They have more room to cook, and thusly, more food. Live music and dinner on the weekends. It's still a crush of humanity from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m. every day, but overall much more pleasant.

A few other things have changed as well. Beef costs have taken off like a revived NASA launch, and Pecan Lodge seem to be using a different supplier for their beef ribs ($22/pound). Still gargantuan, still delicious, but a little less expensive and less perfect than the ones I've eaten before (which I would've taken over every single piece of brisket in Taylor, Austin and Lockhart). That said, the beef rib remains the most interesting type of Texas barbecue. With a singular bite you can have nothing but delicious bark, or meltingly rendered fat, or pure smoked beef, or the jerky-esque profile near the bone, or all those tastes put together. Arrive early simply for these.

No complaints with the brisket ($20/pound) since the move and increase in production; it's as good as ever. But I really like what they've done with the pulled pork ($16/pound), which I tried for the first time in a long while. Any pretense of North Carolina has been abandoned (my favorite style, but nobody in Dallas does whole hog or could ever put that much vinegar on their barbecue), sticking with the same preparation as the brisket, just in pig version. Eating pork with such a rich, dark bark is quite something.

Ribs are still their fifth-best meat (I neglected to mention the sausages), but secretly I don't prefer the Texas style of ribs, and rarely order them anywhere anymore.

Sides ($3) remain solid. Their mac and cheese is a fine version, with crumbled bacon on top and a trace of jalapenos within. Collard greens are quite good. Well-cooked, with zip and the faintest sweet heat at the end. Coleslaw is heavy on the carrots, cayenne and red cabbage. Pinto beans are OK. Fried okra is the most inconsistent; occasionally arriving either cold or overcooked. Banana pudding ($3.75) is enjoyable, but this is not a meal where you save room for dessert. At least you shouldn't.

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Astoria Caffe & Wine Bar, 15701 Quorum Dr, Addison, TX (972) 239-5853

http://astoriacaffe.com/

Have you ever discovered a family-owned gem of a cafe that made you consider re-locating?  Uprooting your household and doubling your commute just so you could be in walking distance to the ultimate "second home"?  Astoria Caffe & Wine Bar in Addison, Texas is that place.

With their seven-year anniversary just around the corner, it's difficult to summarize the mindful evolution cultivated by the Bulgarian owners.  In the past four years alone, I've watched the venue steadily deepen it's aesthetic decor, enhance the menu, grow the wine list, artfully expand the patio.  And, oh, that patio.  Gracing the full entryway, over a dozen black mesh tables capture crosscutting breezes drifting from the park of trees across the street.  The patio experience is a dog-friendly and nature-embracing treasure.

Europe's influence is on display in the straightforward, no-fuss, carefully selected, high quality ingredients.  For breakfast, the Astoria Platter ($8.99) is one not to miss, with expertly seasoned, house-made pork sausage.  For lunch, dinner, and late night, the meat and cheese platters ($8.95 - $16.95) offer a pleasant and leisurely repast.  Anything here graced with Kalamata olive, dill, or roasted red pepper will serve you well.  The simplistic miracle of carefully chosen ingredients treated honorably in a welcoming and relaxing atmosphere will bring you back time and time again.  Before or after your visit, you'll find the location, tucked into Addison Row, provides a meandering forum to tour shops and parks that often host concerts, movies, and local festivals.  On a lazy Sunday afternoon, Astoria Caffe is the rare venue where you'll be welcomed to sit for hours.  Patrons are not rushed, but encouraged to continue enjoying refreshments and nourishing dialogue.

On a recent visit, the patriarch mentioned the mixed blessing of receiving their liquor license after a two-year application process, building on his already extensive wine and beer selections.  He noted it would be worthwhile to experiment with cocktails, but they would be keeping a close eye to ensure libations do not subsume their seven-year atmospheric build.  This is a business that cares about serving the entire local community, not a niche subset.  This is also the venue where the Mayor schedules his coffee meetings with local citizens.

The fortunate timing of my visits could be part of the deep affection I have for this place.  I tend to find myself munching on panini, eggplant dip, charcuterie, or smoked salmon and wine during mid-morning, mid-afternoon, or after the dinner rush.  A leisurely pace and calming acoustics weave the fabric of the charm for Astoria Caffe.  Busier times may be more frantic, hence the lucky nearby resident who can wander over at the right weather, will and whim.

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Headed to Dallas for the National Championship game. Flying in Monday, tailgating all day most likely (may need lunch), but mostly need a big late breakfast place recommendation for Tuesday morning. Since our flight doesn't leave until 6 pm, a late lunch/early dinner rec would be great too. Casual attire, as we will still be wearing our Buckeye gear. We are staying downtown at the Crowne Plaza and will have a car. Flying in/out of Love field. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Go Bucks!

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I also find myself headed to Dallas this weekend, and also appreciate any recommendations, near downtown (Sheraton). I'm there a couple more days (arriving Saturday), so am definitely looking for dinner and bar suggestions. And this is where our interests substantially differ, as I'll be backing the Ducks. 

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Headed to Dallas for the National Championship game. Flying in Monday, tailgating all day most likely (may need lunch), but mostly need a big late breakfast place recommendation for Tuesday morning. Since our flight doesn't leave until 6 pm, a late lunch/early dinner rec would be great too. Casual attire, as we will still be wearing our Buckeye gear. We are staying downtown at the Crowne Plaza and will have a car. Flying in/out of Love field. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Go Bucks!

***bumping this thread, in the hopes will_5198 or others will chime in with suggestions for you and Mark***

In the meantime, regarding breakfast, and based on rave reviews of local food fans, this morning we tried Hypnotic Donuts and Biscuits.  We ventured to Denton, but the original Dallas location is 15 minutes from the Crowne Plaza.  Hands down, this was the best chicken biscuit of my life.  I ordered the Amy (smoky bacon, cheddar, honey, pickles, spicy mustard, $7).  Others enjoyed the Olivia (just honey, $6) and Maribeth (peppered gravy, tater tots, $6).  Super casual, cheerfully friendly staff, and the option to finish your breakfast via a parade of excessively light and festively flavored donuts (between $1 and $4 each).  We used plastic knife and fork to break into a half dozen different varieties (small bites, I swear).  The blueberry cake donut ($1), evocative of Boo Berry riding a pillow cloud, would be worth the trip alone.  The Dallas location is northeast of your hotel, and not on the way to Love Field, but it's near the Arboretum and other interesting sites if you have time to meander.

Hypnotic Donuts and Biscuits, Two Locations

9007 Garland Rd, Dallas, TX 75218

235 W Hickory St, Denton, TX 76201

http://www.hypnoticdonuts.com

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Thanks. I'm not certain I could talk my husband into a nominal donut place on principle. He is just that way. CBD provisions looks to have a nice breakfast although there is a classic diner place crossroads we are thinking of. Thinking about Smoke for lunch one day then the Woodshed on Tuesay even if Ft Worth is out of the way. Thoughts? Thank you for the recs though. I will look at it closer later today.

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***bumping this thread, in the hopes will_5198 or others will chime in with suggestions for you and Mark***

Sorry I'm late; this weather is too depressing!

CBD provisions looks to have a nice breakfast although there is a classic diner place crossroads we are thinking of. Thinking about Smoke for lunch one day then the Woodshed on Tuesay even if Ft Worth is out of the way. Thoughts?

CBD is one of your better bets around downtown (although I'm not sure about their breakfast. Weekend Coffee is a cute spot that's right next door, however). Most of "downtown Dallas" is a wasteland of bland dining choices, as you'll see the interesting city neighborhoods are extremely segmented.

Smoke is good. Nearby is Jonathan's Oak Cliff, if you want a more traditional breakfast. If you're headed that way you'll also be really close to the Bishop Arts district, which is a couple blocks of independent shops and arguably the highest concentration of good-to-great restaurants in Dallas: Oddfellows has good coffee and a decent breakfast (with service that is nice but almost always slow), Emporium Pies is always a treat (get the Lord of the Pies and seasonal options), Lockhart Smokehouse is the second best 'cue in the city without the insane Pecan Lodge wait, plus there's foodie shops like Dude, Sweet Chocolate and Bolsa Mercado that are fun to browse. If you stick around for dinner there's Bolsa, Hattie's, the amazing Lucia (a splurge and only four walk-in seats), Boulevardier (French bistro-ish) and Mesa (fantastic regional Mexican).

As KMango mentioned, Hypnotic Donuts is great. They've really upped their game over the last two years -- all the chicken biscuits are worth the caloric bomb, and the Espress' Yo Self / Peace' Statio donuts are must-haves every other week or so. Right up the street is Good 2 Go Taco, which has the best gringo-style breakfast tacos around (the Paris, TX and a cup from Cultivar Coffee -- which shares the same space -- is one of my top three breakfasts in Dallas). Although I completely understand if you don't want to drive out to my side of Dallas, as it's not of greatest convenience.

Crossroads Diner is a great choice if you decide on it. Classic-diner-style breakfast items done extremely well. It's always busy and loud but I've never been disappointed. Village Baking Company is on the way up/back, too. I had a great lunch at Woodshed Smokehouse last summer...but it's much more enjoyable during spring or fall, when you can sit out on their big deck patio (the restaurant is very open-air inside, too). And the drive back from Fort Worth can be crushing.

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Quick thoughts on where I ended up:

Pecan Lodge - It's pretty fantastic bbq. Pro tip, while the line seems to always be mammoth (we ended up there twice due to our flight getting cancelled) if there's space at the bar you can simply go in the back door, sit at the bar, and order the entire menu. The only restriction is that you can't then take your food to one of the other tables.

Tacos y Mas  - Going here for breakfast tacos the morning of the game was one of the best decisions I made all weekend.

Proof & Pantry - This was a nice, slightly more upscale dinner spot that we hit up the first night. I really enjoyed this place. They had really good bartenders making really good cocktails, and the smaller plates we ordered at the bar were uniformly delicious. I'm not completely convinced about the onion marshmallow they put on top of their bone marrow, but I enjoyed everything else.

Bowen House - Great cocktails, really relaxed atmosphere, good bartenders. We were big fans of this place.

Dallas Beer Kitchen - Great beer list, and was a good place to watch the Packers-Cowboys game on Sunday. In addition to their regular pours you can get your growlers filled for $10, which is a pretty dang good deal, and worked out well for our tailgate.

Bob's Steak and Chop House - A few folks in our group organized a group dinner, and this is where they chose. It's fine as far as steakhouses go. My steak was delicious and cooked perfectly, which is pretty much all I can ask for at a spot like this.

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