Great Wall-Szechuan House, 14th and Church St NW
#1
Posted 09 June 2006 - 03:31 PM
Chris Rock: 'Cause it's bad for you. Why does cocaine smell so good? 'Cause it's bad for you.
#2
Posted 10 June 2006 - 08:29 PM
I think it may be illegal to import sichuan peppercorns, so there's a limited supply. They said they sold some to a NYC restaurant recently. The tingly mouthfeel could have been more intense, but the overall spicing level was superb.
This is the only good Chinese place I've ever been to in D.C.
#3
Posted 10 June 2006 - 11:04 PM
“ma” meaning “peppery,” as in the sour, pine-needle-like flavors of Szechwan peppercorns, and “la” meaning “hot,” as in generous amounts of dried chilies. Too many Western-style Szechwan dishes stiff you on ma and scimp on the la.Never been, but I am intrigued. Anyone checked out this place?
Great Wall - Szechuan House
That quote by Tim Carman is funny, and this is a great article. So many things to comment on here ... descriptive, detailed writing - is it the result of a solid general education? The wake of Kliman?
No, it's not perfect, but I'm glad this article was published, on several levels. I feel like I "know" the restaurant now, and it's nice to see chefs such as Chen Yuan getting publicized.
There are a lot of talented young food writers in this area right now - it's a heady time for the DC restaurant scene.
Cheers,
Rocks.
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#4
Posted 10 June 2006 - 11:48 PM
#5
Posted 11 June 2006 - 08:58 AM
To YOU, perhaps. Personally, I am intrigued. Could this place make us not miss Peter Chang so much?That place sounds yucky.
#6
Posted 11 June 2006 - 08:59 AM
No, they're legal to import to the U.S., but for a long time (1968-2005) they weren't. They have to be pasteurized before importation, but I haven't heard whether or not this affects the flavor.I think it may be illegal to import sichuan peppercorns, so there's a limited supply.
And I agree with Rocks -- Carman's doing a damn fine job of filling in Kliman's shoes (which probably seem to be size 17, wide) and I'm back to looking forward to reading 'Young & Hungry' each week.
Chris Rock: 'Cause it's bad for you. Why does cocaine smell so good? 'Cause it's bad for you.
#7
Posted 11 June 2006 - 02:03 PM
According to its menu, hours are Sun-Thur 11a-10p; Fri/Sat 11a-1030p. The menu looks kind of average, but I imagine this is the kind of place where if you know what you want, they'll make it for you.
#8
Posted 11 June 2006 - 08:27 PM
#9
Posted 11 June 2006 - 10:14 PM
Calling Pandahugga: We need some help here!That seems to be the way at alot of your more authentic chinese places. The have the main menu that they hand most people that come in, i.e. your standard Chinese-American fare. But many also have a Chinese menu (that is often printed in Enlish as well as Chinese) or others that will make whatever you'd like. I'd like to try some places like that, but frankly know so little about "real" Chinese food that I have no idea what to try. I'm guessing that some of my favorite dishes (Moo Goo Gai Pan, Kung Pao Chicken, Cashew Chicken, etc.) aren't exactly authentic.
#10
Posted 12 June 2006 - 08:08 AM
Finally...a food reporter who is actually going out and shaking the trees himself instead of just piggy-backing off the boards. But tell me, how do you "cold call" a restaurant?Never been, but I am intrigued. Anyone checked out this place?
Great Wall - Szechuan House
#11
Posted 12 June 2006 - 09:12 AM
BTW you can get the peppercorn here. Penzeys
#12
Posted 12 June 2006 - 10:05 AM
#13
Posted 12 June 2006 - 10:19 AM
I would totally be up for trying it as a $20 Tuesday...This place is within walking distance of my office. I might have to give it a try at lunch time soon. I wonder if it would qualify for a $20 Tuesday outing???
Rachel Hammerman
I have a meat tooth not a sweet tooth.
@rhammerman
#14
Posted 12 June 2006 - 11:12 AM
Let me know if you want company at lunch. It's walkable from home.This place is within walking distance of my office. I might have to give it a try at lunch time soon. I wonder if it would qualify for a $20 Tuesday outing???
#15
Posted 12 June 2006 - 01:37 PM
#16
Posted 12 June 2006 - 02:47 PM
How many can its dining area fit? From the CityPaper profile (bullet proof glass partition) I had initially visualized it as "carry-out only."But the size of this restaurnant and its capacity means that it will never be able to produce the broad range of authentic dishes produced by Chef Peter Chang at TemptAsian and China Gourmet.
Is it big enough to handle a $20 Tuesday invasion?
Scoring a game is about bearing witness, expanding your own ability to observe. - Esquire, 2008.
#17
Posted 12 June 2006 - 02:51 PM
How many can its dining area fit? From the CityPaper profile (bullet proof glass partition) I had initially visualized it as "carry-out only."
Is it big enough to handle a $20 Tuesday invasion?
There is seating, but not much. We sat at a big round table in the front window that would seat about 6 people. I think there were 4 banquets that would seat 4 each. So, whether it would hold a $20 Tuesday invasion would depend on the the size of the invasion.
#18
Posted 12 June 2006 - 04:53 PM
I managed to sneak out of a test I was having and got there about 2pm. I ordered three dishes, same as the selection above but no bean sprouts. I sampled some there but had to get back so brought the rest home. My reaction is pretty much the same, except I would stop at very good, not go all the way to great. Based on my sample anyway they have quite a ways to go to come up to the level of JNH or China Star. I did discuss with the lady the need to broaden the "ma-la" menu, but you're right the place is way to small to ever support a menu like Peter C did when he was around. And the layout of the place makes it non-conducive to a group larger than six, unless people want to split up.I went there for lunch today. The three of us had 4 ma la dishes: The tofu, the bean sprout, the eggplant, and the pork. Pictures will follow soon. The "ma la" menu is limted to about 6-8 items on a white board separate from the printed menu. Every thing was great. The tofu produced the same "fuzzy tongue" effect that we used to get at TemptAsian. My favorite was the pork, more like thick slices of bacon than the lean pork I'm used to getting. But the size of this restaurnant and its capacity means that it will never be able to produce the broad range of authentic dishes produced by Chef Peter Chang at TemptAsian and China Gourmet. That having been said, if it's hot you want, the charming folks at Great Wall aim to please. I think they are unique in bringing the "ma la" to DC; apparantly it is well known in NYC.
On the whole, provided they can get to where they do a bit more variety, it will be a good spot to eat in DC, a decent alternative to Full Key and of similar overall quality (tho certainly of a different style). But I'm not yet ready to recommend a drive into the city to eat there.
#19
Posted 12 June 2006 - 09:02 PM
I'm the type the would definitely have to go with a group as Chinese is not my favorite cuisine. But if all of you are saying its good, then informed eaters must give it a try.There is seating, but not much. We sat at a big round table in the front window that would seat about 6 people. I think there were 4 banquets that would seat 4 each. So, whether it would hold a $20 Tuesday invasion would depend on the the size of the invasion.
keep us posted about a $20 Tuesday?
#20
Posted 13 June 2006 - 11:47 AM
#21
Posted 13 June 2006 - 12:15 PM
but the star was the twice-cooked pork. Porky, almost bacon-y, goodness.
Why does this not suprise me, what with a nom de screen like "pork belly."
#22
Posted 13 June 2006 - 01:12 PM
I am disappointed to report, however, that my ma pa tofu was inedible. It was the saltiest dish I have ever tasted, which is a feat given my upbringing in rural Georgia and my love for salty foods. After three chunks of bean curd, I threw the reamainder in the garbage. Even with the horrible overload of salt I was able to taste the nice, slow burn.
So, my questions are:
1. Is this what authentic Szechuan cooking tastes like? I'm not sure I've ever tried the real deal.
2. Was this an accident, like when Miguel on Top Chef accidentally put salt in the sorbet instead of sugar?
3. Have others had similar experiences?
I intend to go back soon to try another dish or maybe the same one. At $8.75--which includes a free can of soda--it's ridiculous to not do so. Just looking to confirm that my meal was an aberration.
#23
Posted 13 June 2006 - 01:15 PM
I live five blocks from Great Wall and had never tried it until reading the article in the City Paper and the reports here. Last night, on my first visit, I ordered the ma pa tofu from the ma-la menu. The staff folk were as nice as could be, they were gracious even though I called 15 minutes before closing, and the woman from whom I ordered told me the twice cooked pork was her favorite. I was excited about this possible new discovery in Logan.
I am disappointed to report, however, that my ma pa tofu was inedible. It was the saltiest dish I have ever tasted, which is a feat given my upbringing in rural Georgia and my love for salty foods. After three chunks of bean curd, I threw the reamainder in the garbage. Even with the horrible overload of salt I was able to taste the nice, slow burn.
So, my questions are:
1. Is this what authentic Szechuan cooking tastes like? I'm not sure I've ever tried the real deal.
2. Was this an accident, like when Miguel on Top Chef accidentally put salt in the sorbet instead of sugar?
3. Have others had similar experiences?
I intend to go back soon to try another dish or maybe the same one. At $8.75--which includes a free can of soda--it's ridiculous to not do so. Just looking to confirm that my meal was an aberration.
You must have gotten a bad batch, the same tofu dish I had for lunch yeterday had no discernible "saltiness." Try the twice cooked pork, it's not nearly as spicy as the tofu and also not salty (at least not mine).
#24
Posted 13 June 2006 - 01:24 PM
You may have fallen victim to douchi.So, my questions are:
1. Is this what authentic Szechuan cooking tastes like? I'm not sure I've ever tried the real deal.
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#25
Posted 13 June 2006 - 01:29 PM
*****
If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.
#26
Posted 14 June 2006 - 08:20 AM
I had the same experience yesterday. I ordered the ma po tofu and the double cooked pork. The double cooked pork arrived first and was fine, but when the ma po tofu came, it tasted overly salty to me too. I mentioned it to the GM who got me another batch, but with the same result (although I didn't say anything the second time). It made the water that I chased it with tastedparticularly strange, so I don't know if it's a chemical recation resulting from the spicing or what. The GM is particularly friendly/talkative. She told me they planned to try out different ma la items to see which were the most popular, so expect the white board offerings to change.I live five blocks from Great Wall and had never tried it until reading the article in the City Paper and the reports here. Last night, on my first visit, I ordered the ma pa tofu from the ma-la menu. The staff folk were as nice as could be, they were gracious even though I called 15 minutes before closing, and the woman from whom I ordered told me the twice cooked pork was her favorite. I was excited about this possible new discovery in Logan.
I am disappointed to report, however, that my ma pa tofu was inedible. It was the saltiest dish I have ever tasted, which is a feat given my upbringing in rural Georgia and my love for salty foods. After three chunks of bean curd, I threw the reamainder in the garbage. Even with the horrible overload of salt I was able to taste the nice, slow burn.
So, my questions are:
1. Is this what authentic Szechuan cooking tastes like? I'm not sure I've ever tried the real deal.
2. Was this an accident, like when Miguel on Top Chef accidentally put salt in the sorbet instead of sugar?
3. Have others had similar experiences?
I intend to go back soon to try another dish or maybe the same one. At $8.75--which includes a free can of soda--it's ridiculous to not do so. Just looking to confirm that my meal was an aberration.
#27
Posted 14 June 2006 - 08:55 AM
A&J Restaurant
#28
Posted 14 June 2006 - 09:39 AM
I always thought ma ma ma ma ma ma ma ma meant something like "Mother is scolding the horse who is kicking the hemp and the leech is on morphine," depending on the inflections.in chinese the word ma would be used to describe that feeling.
I'm serious!
Rocks.
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#29
Posted 14 June 2006 - 12:05 PM
I always thought ma ma ma ma ma ma ma ma meant something like "Mother is scolding the horse who is kicking the hemp and the leech is on morphine," depending on the inflections.
In college I took some Mandarin Chinese classes. On the first day of class, our teacher, a very short (and that's short in my world!) woman leaned into my face and yelled, "ma ma ma ma!" with each "ma" having a different tone. She asked what we thought she had said. No one replied and so she said, "I just said, mother, horse, scold, marijuana." My classes were not too helpful in teaching us anything about Chinese food or menus, but I wish I'd known at that time to ask about "ma la" foods.
"I'd give up chocolate, but I'm not a quitter."
#30
Posted 14 August 2007 - 02:47 PM
They've cleaned the place up a bit -- no more bulletproof glass, new tables, new menus and there was no palpable shock on the faces of the owners when the three of us elected to dine in. Still, it's a not-so-inviting hole-in-the-wall joint, some people will be comfortable there, some people will not be.
During the course of our meal, another person walked in for a sit-down meal. There were a handful of takeout orders as well. Maybe more improvements are on the horizon.
Here's the interesting bit -- my friend, a tall, skinny white kid who speaks passable mandarin and has covered a lot of ground in mainland china, just flipped for the ma po tofu. He called it one of the better tofu dishes he's ever had.
I'm not a big tofu eater, but I really like the dish for a few reasons. The consistency of the tofu is wonderful -- crisp exterior, creamy interior -- and the sauce doesn't leave me reeling like some of the other ma la dishes I've had there. Yes, it's spicy, but I was able to appreciate that unique peppercorn tingle without feeling like i'd stuck my tongue in a light socket.
So, if you're curious about the sichuan peppercorn but haven't taken the plunge, definitely do check it out.
Oh -- and if you do end up there, consider the hot and sour soup. Their version is thick, pungent and delicious.
Alex
#31
Posted 14 January 2008 - 04:19 PM
#32
Posted 14 January 2008 - 04:53 PM
My comparison of Great Wall and Joe's can be found here.I agree with the praise for the mapo tofu. it's great stuff, way better than anything else i've had in NOVA or DC, though i have to admit i've never made it to joe's or HKP to compare.
You know, I ordered from Great Wall last night and the ma po did not seem as hot as usual. The ma la wantons were also not as hot as usual, but they were so tasty. They seem to consistently have more flavor than the ma po tofu.
#33
Posted 16 January 2008 - 02:35 AM
Tuesday night was a different story though. Got the steamed meat dumplings and ma la kung pao chicken. The dumpling meat was good and the sauce was very good, different than other sauces I've had for dumplings. It was almost like the sauce that the ma la wontons are in but isn't quite the same. There was excessive dumpling for the most part though that I wasn't wild about.
However, the ma la kung pao chicken was literally inedible. Possibly the first time -ever- I've had a dish that I considered inedible. I think it was the same experience that LoganCircle had and described as salty. If I hadn't had the twice cooked pork the night before I probably would have described it as tasty remarkably, amazingly salty. Having had extensive experience with ma la cooking at this point (i.e. one prior dish, the night before) I noticed that the "furry mouth" feeling was much more pronounced than the night before and I think it wasn't oversalted as much as it was over "ma la"d. Whatever it was it made it so I couldn't finish the dish. It certainly wasn't too hot as I didn't catch any spicy heat coming from it.
It's certainly an interesting experience and one I'm fine with experimenting with every now and then. I'll probably order the kung pao chicken and the twice cooked pork one more time each (though not for a couple days at least I hope!) just to try them out before I pass final judgement. If I end up with the same feeling again as the kung pao chicken I had then I'm going to have to pass on dining here again as to iffy (or at least skip the kung pao chicken and stick with the twice cooked pork).
ETA: Just looked up Sichuan Pepper in McGee.
Pretty sure that's the first (and second) time I've ever eaten anything described as causing "neurological confusion" :-)They produce a strange, tingling, buzzing, numbing sensation that is something like the effect of carbonated drinks or of a mild electrical current (touching the terminals ofa nine-volt battery to the toungue). Sanshools (ed: the active chemical in Sichuan Pepper) appear to act on several different kinds of nerve endings at once, induce sensitivity to touch and cold in nerves that are ordinarily nonsensitive, and so perhaps cause a kind of general neurological confusion.
ETA: So it is gnatharobed. I blaim my neurological confusion :-)
#34
Posted 05 May 2008 - 07:35 AM
Or not, the past two times I have picked up from Great Wall the heat has been missing from the oily sauce that covers the protein and vegetables in their Ma La offerings. Last night I specifically addressed the lack of heat with the woman who seems to be the owner/manager. She assured me that the dishes were hot and the pepper should have the numbing effect.
Considering the past two times they have not, I should have left and sacrificed the gas to drive to Rockville (though the last time I did, I got a picture in the mail to commemorate my trip!)... but I did not... I ordered the Ma La Chicken and Veggies and Ma La Cucumber.
The Ma La Cucumber was shockingly disappointing. The cucumbers were fresh and crisp, but swimming in Ma La sauce without much heat. The sauce was bored over the cuke spears when I ordered it so there was no time to marinate. I was really bummed because my expectations were set at other places, and Great Wall failed miserably.
I enjoyed the chicken and brocolli in the Ma La Chicken and Veggies, but everything else in the dish smacked of bad food court Chinese! The sauce was oily and lacked any of the numbing pepper that signifies Szechuan cooking.
Next time I want Szechuan, I am going to go Joe's. Boiled peanuts, numbing noodles, great fresh veggies and other treats make it a place that may not be able to be beat.
#35
Posted 05 May 2008 - 08:53 AM
Next time I will try the ma-la offerings, but everything that sounded tasty included pork in some form, which the lady will not do. As far as Chinese-American food in the area, though, this is not necessarily a keeper and is light years behind Oriental Gourmet in Arlington in that regard.
#36
Posted 05 May 2008 - 11:08 AM
Why shocked? The article did make it pretty clear they were calling this the fastest horse in a very slow race. As Carman said, bottom line there is no good Chinese food in the District, so this may well be the best of the group. Certainly if you are looking for Sichuan, which lets out Full Kee, the most frequently mentioned other contender. What other place is there? I don't think Chinese-American is even on Carman's radar screen, nor should it be on ours, so "better" carry-outs need not apply.I was shocked when I saw the Washington City Paper name this place the best Chinese restaurant in the District. I had walked by the place several times and it looks just like the rest of the Chinese places in the area, which is not necessarily a good thing. I decided to go safe and just get takeout, which included some hot and sour soup, an order of combination chow fun, and the spicy shrimp in garlic sauce. Now, I know that this is more of the Chinese-American fare, but JNH does these types of dishes well, so shouldn't Great Wall too? Meh. Everything was pretty standard as far as Chinese takeout goes, with some good heat in the shrimp and decent flavor to the chow fun, but I will not be rushing back here.
Next time I will try the ma-la offerings, but everything that sounded tasty included pork in some form, which the lady will not do. As far as Chinese-American food in the area, though, this is not necessarily a keeper and is light years behind Oriental Gourmet in Arlington in that regard.
#37
Posted 05 May 2008 - 12:22 PM
In regards to my shocked comment, I guess it was less that I disagreed with his opinion and more "there really isn't better Chinese in the city than this???" That's all I was saying.
#38
Posted 05 May 2008 - 01:50 PM
If there is, I haven't found it... I'm just talking about DC itself (not sure if that was the focus of Carman or not) as there are good places in the surrounding areas, just not in DC itself, at least that I've found.In regards to my shocked comment, I guess it was less that I disagreed with his opinion and more "there really isn't better Chinese in the city than this???" That's all I was saying.
I've certainly seen the unevenness of spice in their food. The first time I ordered the food was awesome and really impressed. The second time I couldn't finish my meal as it was overly spiced (it wasn't too hot I don't believe; too tingly rather), and I'm not a guy to miss alot of meals. The third and fourth times have been decent; good enough that I'll continue ordering there intermittently when I'm staying at hotels in the area, but not something I'd go out of the way for. From the one or two items I've tried outside of the ma-la part of the menu, everything else seems to be standard Chinese takeout quality.
#39
Posted 05 May 2008 - 02:54 PM
I think the answer is, no there really isn't much if any better Chinese in the District. Good Chinese, like good most other ethnic food (Ethiopian seems to be the major exception to the rule) is to be found in the suburbs, not the city. Why? Basically, because the best ethnic foods tend to come from small, family-owned and operated, undercapitalized restaurants, the kind that can't afford rents in the city--the big boys with access to big money beat them out every time, so they are in the suburbs, in little strip shopping centers and similar spots.In regards to my shocked comment, I guess it was less that I disagreed with his opinion and more "there really isn't better Chinese in the city than this???" That's all I was saying.
Tyler Cowen has discussed this phenomenon at greater length. Here is a link--go down to about the 6th paragraph:
http://www.tylercowe...ral_remarks.php
#40
Posted 17 May 2008 - 03:33 PM
Double-cooked pork - flavorful, but it was thin sliced like bacon, when it's much better, and I believe traditional, to have it in chunks which is then crisped and fatty.
What a waste.
Brian: Stewie, if you don't like it, go on the internet and complain about it.
#41
Posted 19 May 2008 - 02:56 PM
Brian: Stewie, if you don't like it, go on the internet and complain about it.
#42
Posted 20 May 2008 - 12:00 PM
#43
Posted 01 November 2008 - 11:54 AM
#44
Posted 09 December 2008 - 09:43 PM
Cheers,
Rocks.
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#45
Posted 10 December 2008 - 09:27 AM
It's very hit or miss at Great Wall. Earlier up thread I wrote about a time that I ordered two nights in a row. One night was very good (though I haven't had the chance to try Chang's food so don't have a great barometer), the next night was as you described; heat from the Szechuan peppercord and extremely salty to the point that nothing else can be tasted.It's been four-and-a-half years since I first wrote about Peter Chang at China Star (thanks to you, Basilgirl). Tonight, on my first, and last, visit to Great Wall, I look back and strain to remember the profundity of Chang's Ma Po Tofu - the version at Great Wall being nothing more than a sloppy, gloppy, oily, heat-dictated, superficial, forgotten, bastard-child to The Master, with nearly all the flavor derived from Szechuan peppercorn and salty, fermented black bean. Are people so seduced by heat that they neglect to actually taste these dishes? Great Wall's version is made with chicken, not pork - no crime there, but as my quickly cooling bowl sits a foot away from me, all I can think of is a bouillon cube as I desperately long for a shower. I'm sitting here staring into my nearly empty bowl trying to think of something - anything - good to say about this dish, but words are eluding me. I'd MUCH rather go to Meiwah and have pepper steak than endure this a second time. Am I missing something here?
Cheers,
Rocks.
I've taken to ordering from other places that aren't nearly as good as Great Wall on the times I've gotten good food, but much better than Great Wall on the nights I get bad food from them.
#46
Posted 10 December 2008 - 11:25 AM
Based on the numerous experiences I have had here, no. Again, this is why I expressed shock at Tim Carman calling this the best Chinese restaurant in DC. My wife loves Steamed Shrimp and Mixed Vegetables from pretty much anywhere, so we typically order from here when she gets her craving (I will say, their delivery service is outstanding, never more than a 20 minute wait for food). But I have yet to find anything other than the Boiled Beef to be even somewhat good. I have tried almost everything from the Ma La menu and it all comes way too oily and tasting strongly of lemongrass, which for the life of me I cannot understand. This place may have been something to write home about a while back, but right now it is merely mediocre Chinese takeout.Am I missing something here?
#47
Posted 10 December 2008 - 11:39 AM
I would say mapo tofu with chicken is a sacrilege.
#48
Posted 10 December 2008 - 08:49 PM
If he means the DC city limits thats really saying nothing.Based on the numerous experiences I have had here, no. Again, this is why I expressed shock at Tim Carman calling this the best Chinese restaurant in DC.
#49
Posted 11 December 2008 - 11:08 PM
I'll second that about their delivery service. I swear I've had them show up before I've hung up the phone a few times.I will say, their delivery service is outstanding, never more than a 20 minute wait for food).
#50
Posted 03 January 2011 - 08:07 PM
Damn it. All the MaLa dishes were so very good last week (mapo dofu, belly, eggplant & chicken w/peanut) but due to an ordering malfunction (ordering typical Chinese american food before the good stuff) everything arrived overly sweetened and in a blech sauce.It's very hit or miss at Great Wall. Earlier up thread I wrote about a time that I ordered two nights in a row. One night was very good (though I haven't had the chance to try Chang's food so don't have a great barometer), the next night was as you described; heat from the Szechuan peppercord and extremely salty to the point that nothing else can be tasted.
I've taken to ordering from other places that aren't nearly as good as Great Wall on the times I've gotten good food, but much better than Great Wall on the nights I get bad food from them.
Can we make a password or something for gweilo peeps that like real, spicy food?
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