Dining In or Around Castleton, VA

[Rieux]

Headed out to a friend's cabin for the weekend in Castleton, VA.  Any suggestions on good places to hit (not looking for super fancy/expensive, but a good casual place, or even ice cream stands, etc).

Also, any activity or sightseeing suggestions welcome too!

Thanks!

[Joe H]

Never heard of this crossroads which just I just looked up and realized that yesterday we were only a couple of miles away from it.  You're in the heart of VA wine country which would be a very real destination. (Ducard Vineyards has a great setting; Early Mountain for the fantastic ambience and view; they sell RDV's third label which is an excellent red but $45; still worth it.  Outstanding setting and not that far from you.  Early Mountain's own wines are not exceptional...)  Also, the Bavarian Chef near Madison which is remarkably good basic German, honestly as good as much of what you will find in Munich.  Negative;  it is known and enormously popular.  Warrenton is a half hour north and Claire's at the Depot are good destinations along with two wine bars on the main drag.  Sperryville has a couple of places-both of which we have been disappointed in.  We use to like Fore Street in Culpeper but it has fallen off in the past couple of years.  If you're into wine seriously consider Early Mountain or Ducard.  For dinner Warrenton or nearby (?!?) German which will be shockingly good.

For sightseeing just drive west from where you are staying and get lost.  Some of the most beautiful country on earth.

[Rieux]

Thanks so much, Joe! We will check out some of the vineyards!

[Joe H]

Rieux, in part because I know the area you are going to (but not the name Castleton...) I looked at some of your earlier posts on here and noted one from 2012 which discussed wineries in Santa Barbara.  Ducard will be fairly close to you and it will have some character with decent wine.  BUT, using Mapquest, if you are interested you are virtually equidistant from both Early Mountain (this is Steve Jobs' winery) and Glen Manor.  Each are 30 t0 31.5 miles from you, each driving through gorgeous, interesting country to get there.  If you have never had Glen Manor or RDV and enjoy good red you may want to consider either of these.  The ride to Glen Manor will take you by Rappahannock and Chester Gap along with a number of others nearby.  Glen Manor would be the destination.  The winery is at the base of  Skyline Drive which literally looks like an Austrian mountainside in back of it.  Coincidentally, there are hangliders who fly off of the top of the mountain coming down it, almost to the bottom.  It is dramatically beautiful.  Glen Manor has two outstanding reds:  2010 Hodder HIll and 2010 Petit Verdot.  They are $40 to $50 each and worth every penny.  They also do tastings but this is one of the best wineries in VA and worth sharing a bottle if you are into wine.

In the other direction is Early Mountain which closes at 4:00PM tomorrow (for a private party) and is open until 6:00 on Sunday.  I believe there is entertainment both days.  This setting is equally beautiful but the tasting room/building is spectacularly luxurious.  They also sell light food.  If you go and enjoy red I'd ask you to seriously consider the $45 RDV Red (their third label) which is excellent.

Sperryville is interesting along with the area near the Inn.

If you don't mind an hour's drive I am convinced the single most beautiful winery in VA is....Grace Estates near Crozet.  This is a fantastic Georgian mansion on a mountain top with literal 40 mile views over three or four hillsides and valleys.  The drive to the top of the winery is completely paved and surrounded by vineyards on both sides for almost the entire length.  The tasting room is in the mansion and has only been open to the public since last Fall.  The lawn in front of it is expansive with lounge chairs, picnic tables and benches that overlook the valley.  They also make an excellent $28 tannat that is a remarkable value.

My wife and I have now been to over 100 VA wineries and I believe this is the most spectacular setting of all (although Delaplane remains my overall favorite winery).  Considering the tannat and the friendliness of staff (one just received her masters in enology from UC Davis) this would be my second favorite.  Fifteen minutes away from this is the excellent King Family ('07 Meritage won the Governor's Cup and they have it-we were there yesterday), excellent Pollak (;09 cab reserve is a full bodied, mouth coating, jammy wine that you'll bring some of home), beautiful Veritas ($50 petit verdot second only to Glen Manor's '09; also an excellent port like wine which is better than King Family's good 7 which is a port like wine and similarly beauitful Afton Mountain where I loved the setting but none of the wine.

If you really want to explore and have a story when you return have dinner tomorrow night in Staunton at the Shack.  Yes, the Shack.  This is Ian Boden who was a semi finalist for a James Beard Award for the Mid Atlantic. Tom Sietsema on the shack. We went Thursday night and it is worth the drive from D. C. let alone Castleton.  No reservations, first come, first serve, seven tables total (yes, seven and they will be filled by 6:00PM) $55 four course prix fixe with limited but reasonable wine.  Also a la carte-everything is reasonable.  This is one of the most incredible and serious dining joints that I've ever been to. It IS a shack.  It is also now known (opened about five months ago) with a national reputation.  It IS that good.  Ian Boden is a truly gifted chef and will be the only person in the kitchen for the 15 or 16 of the total diners who will squeeze into the 100 year shack.

Staunton is also a town with a lot of character and a great '50's drive in called Wrights Dairy Rite which has been there since '52.  It's across the street from the remarkable former Western State insane asylum which was founded in 1821 and recently, building by building, is being converted into....condominiums.  The inmate graveyard with individual crosses is adjacent.  All of this has stood on a hillside for almost two hundred years in dreary, dreadful red brick buildings which now are being sold as "Staunton's alternative to Charlottesville."

The two guard towers are still there, too.

With beautiful weather forecast you could have a fantastic weekend.  You are literally going to be in the almost exact middle of all of this, all with beautiful countryside to drive through and a real adventure to pursue-if you decide to.

[Rieux]

So, to report back - Joe, your post was so helpful, informative, and great.  We had no internet or phone at the house, so I took photos of your post on my phone so I could refer to it!

In the end, food-wise, we decided to take advantage of the Wegman's on the way and picked up burgers, etc. for the grill.  We decided that once we were in each afternoon we would not want to drive out again for dinner, so we lived on burgers, dogs, maytag blue cheese, and Aperol spritzs.

However, Joe, the passion you showed for Glen Manor made us feel like we had to try it. (Also, since we had no internet, and Early Mountain was not on the map we had, logistics made the winery decision for us!)  We got up Sunday, drove Skyline Drive (where a bear crossed the road in front of my Mini) stopped for a hike at Stony Man, had a late totally boring lunch at the Mill in Front Royal, and then went to Glen Manor.

While it was mobbed, the tasting staff were simply fantastic, attentive, interesting, and full of knowledge.  The winemaker's wife was also working the bar, and her husband, the winemaker stopped in during our time there.  We really liked their wines.  I think they are the best I have had in VA (until now I had reserved that for Barboursville and Otium).  We thought the 2010 Hodder Hill was magnificent, and I loved the unfiltered body it had.  For once I really felt that velvet tongue that you always read about.  I also really liked the Rose, and thought the sweeter white was good, and I usually hate sweet wines.  Post-tasting we each took a glass out to the Adirondack chairs outside, looked at the mountains, and life was good.

I also really appreciate the heads up on the Shack - My partner's parents live outside of Staunton, so I will make sure we go there next time we are down there!

[Joe H]

So, to report back - Joe, your post was so helpful, informative, and great.  We had no internet or phone at the house, so I took photos of your post on my phone so I could refer to it!

In the end, food-wise, we decided to take advantage of the Wegman's on the way and picked up burgers, etc. for the grill.  We decided that once we were in each afternoon we would not want to drive out again for dinner, so we lived on burgers, dogs, maytag blue cheese, and Aperol spritzs.

However, Joe, the passion you showed for Glen Manor made us feel like we had to try it. (Also, since we had no internet, and Early Mountain was not on the map we had, logistics made the winery decision for us!)  We got up Sunday, drove Skyline Drive (where a bear crossed the road in front of my Mini) stopped for a hike at Stony Man, had a late totally boring lunch at the Mill in Front Royal, and then went to Glen Manor.

While it was mobbed, the tasting staff were simply fantastic, attentive, interesting, and full of knowledge.  The winemaker's wife was also working the bar, and her husband, the winemaker stopped in during our time there.  We really liked their wines.  I think they are the best I have had in VA (until now I had reserved that for Barboursville and Otium).  We thought the 2010 Hodder Hill was magnificent, and I loved the unfiltered body it had.  For once I really felt that velvet tongue that you always read about.  I also really liked the Rose, and thought the sweeter white was good, and I usually hate sweet wines.  Post-tasting we each took a glass out to the Adirondack chairs outside, looked at the mountains, and life was good.

I also really appreciate the heads up on the Shack - My partner's parents live outside of Staunton, so I will make sure we go there next time we are down there!

Thank you, Rieux, really appreciate your nice words.  I'll open a bottle of Hodder Hill tonight and toast you!

.....several times.....

[liz2041]

Next time you are out here give the Griffin Tavern in Flint Hill a try.  I would argue their burgers are on par with some of the best in DC.  The other food is good and they have a great patio/deck for dining.

[dwt]

Check out Sharp Rock Vineyards some time. I'm no wine expert, but I recall enjoying their whites and rose when we visited a couple years ago. It's a small-scale operation (the tasting room is maybe 12x20') in a lovely setting near Old Rag. The couple who own the winery are very nice, laid-back folks.