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Kitchen Remodeling


Heather

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Just a note; it's always possible to make something plug in, if you have the space. I converted my wall oven to a plug using a Locking NEMA plug and receptacle that I purchased at home depot. But trying to carefully hang a $1000+ hood and make it level and not dent it and hide the outlet and plug and not have a marital breakdown is likely much more effort than just paying the installers to do it. ;-)

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We haven't remodeled our kitchen at all, just replaced the floor (ceramic tile ripped out, replaced w/ oak)- The previous owner did an update to sell, we have KitchenAid appliances which have held up, double sink-small sink on right ( which bothered me at first, but I don't notice it now, larger on left, w/ garbage disposal, DW on left). One of the best parts of the kitchen (especially this time of the year)-double sized adjacent garage, (a walk-in right now), lots of storage, castoff frig/freezer. I have cooked all over the place, in minimal kitchens, & this space meets all my needs...now if I could just train the kids & DH to put dishes in the DW, I'd be golden....

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DrXmus, have you considered Electrolux wall ovens?

The Electrolux, KA and Bosch were on our short list with KA barely edging out the Electrolux.

I guess we glanced at them. I can't think of why they didn't stick out (maybe they didn't have a conv. micro/oven combo?), but the KA and Bosch seemed more to our liking. I think we're going to get the Bosch combi.

I need to replace my crappy hood. Are you getting your Vent-a-Hood locally or is the contractor taking care of it? I am wondering if this can be a DIY.

We got our Vent A Hood at ABW Appliances. We worked with Blake.

We first saw Vent A Hoods at Ferguson in Chantilly, but it was our first appliance/bath/faucet/cabinet outing and were overwhelmed with the decisions we had in front of us, so neither of us really noticed them. We also talked to Blake at ABW in Rockville (he used to be in Ashburn primarily, apparently) and Bruce in Ashburn's ABW. The contractor is installing the unit but it's our responsibility up to then. We were definitely sold on the Vent A Hood after talking to Blake. He's very persuasive, but too talkative for me (I'm an introvert so he may not bother others as much). Very nice, though. Bruce in Ashburn was also helpful. We went to Ferguson for the 2nd time just to hear the Vent A Hoods in action. Holy crap they're quiet!! That night, I actually had a bit of a stress dream that the hood wasn't effective and we had to replace it. I would appreciate hearing from you Vent A Hood owners confirming that they work as well as other hoods which are much noisier.

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First - does anyone have a general contractor they recommend? I've got a couple of names, but want to get a few estimates.

We're using OHI for the second time for our upstairs remodel. Four years ago they also gutted our downstairs and made it livable. I'd recommend Ray Gabler to anyone who asks. He's a great designer, gives good estimate and is very easy to work with. Great contractors overall, too.

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That night, I actually had a bit of a stress dream that the hood wasn't effective and we had to replace it.

*****

Uh, I had that dream too. Oh wait, not a dream!

Just an observation, because I have not listened intently to many hoods, but I wonder if baffle models are overall noisier. I say this because when we had our first hood in (the Ancona from Coscto), I thought it made noise from the fan, and the air moving through the baffles. It just seemed to have dual sounds compounding.

Our VAH's sound is far more livable. I won't say pleasing, because it's the sound of a fan, but it's not obnoxious and grating like the Ancona. Plus the Ancona stared to make a whining, whirring sound due to what was thought to be loose ball bearings.

I don't feel like I have to raise my voice or turn up the TV when the VAH is on the lower setting, which is what we use most of the time.

We went to Ferguson a few times for ideas,especially to check out Kohler products, but they are very expensive and you will find lower prices online. They were very helpful, but the cost difference was big. For example, I saved hundreds just on the Kohler Cape Dory sink, which I wound up ordering from Home Depot online.

thistle- we also have our garage attached to the kitchen and I have 2 large SS racks from Costco that hold my overflow cooking equipment and pantry items. Love the convenience.

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Thanks to all the great info I've gleaned from this thread, we've made some major decisions!! Now to move on to the next phase of questions:-)

I plan on getting the 42" Vent A Hood for the 36" rangetop, but I'd like to place it 33" over the cooking surface, not the 30" they recommend. It involves getting a custom duct cover, but that's not the end of the world. The question is whether those three inches are really going to adversely affect the collection of heat/smoke/etc. Mrs DrXmus and I are a little taller than average and are sick of banging our head into the hood we have now, which sits at 22.5" above the surface.

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Any DC general contractor recommendations?  (OHI, for example, seemed to be licensed only in VA and all their testimonials came from VA).

I'd mostly be swapping out cabinets and appliances (not taking down walls) and I think that gas/electrical/plumbing/ductwork is pretty much in place.  We bought the house just before they started construction about 18 years ago, so I had input on what goes where back then and, given the space, I think the original layout is close to optimal..  We've never done any renovation work and I really don't know where to start with a project like this.  (Friends' kitchen renovations have always seemed much more complicated -- e.g. changing the footprint of the house.)

Not surprisingly, what motivates me is the prospect of upgrading the cooking equipment (I'm coveting a Bluestar rangetop and Dacor Renaissance wall ovens).  So maybe I'll try to start with a trip to ABW and set up an appointment with a cabinetmakier.  Should I be starting with a GC or a kitchen designer instead?

Oh and for anyone who frets about hardwood floors in a kitchen (I did) or wonders whether dark granite is the way to go, I have to say that, 18 years later (and with no absolutely effort beyond occasional sweeping/wiping with a wet cloth), both have held up amazingly well.  I'd keep the granite if I could (probably can't) and unless the cabinet replacement process either mangles or reveals hidden problems with the floor, it isn't even at the point where it needs refinishing yet.

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Any DC general contractor recommendations?  (OHI, for example, seemed to be licensed only in VA and all their testimonials came from VA).

I'd mostly be swapping out cabinets and appliances (not taking down walls) and I think that gas/electrical/plumbing/ductwork is pretty much in place.  We bought the house just before they started construction about 18 years ago, so I had input on what goes where back then and, given the space, I think the original layout is close to optimal..  We've never done any renovation work and I really don't know where to start with a project like this.  (Friends' kitchen renovations have always seemed much more complicated -- e.g. changing the footprint of the house.)

Not surprisingly, what motivates me is the prospect of upgrading the cooking equipment (I'm coveting a Bluestar rangetop and Dacor Renaissance wall ovens).  So maybe I'll try to start with a trip to ABW and set up an appointment with a cabinetmakier.  Should I be starting with a GC or a kitchen designer instead?

Oh and for anyone who frets about hardwood floors in a kitchen (I did) or wonders whether dark granite is the way to go, I have to say that, 18 years later (and with no absolutely effort beyond occasional sweeping/wiping with a wet cloth), both have held up amazingly well.  I'd keep the granite if I could (probably can't) and unless the cabinet replacement process either mangles or reveals hidden problems with the floor, it isn't even at the point where it needs refinishing yet.

Send a PM to Waitman and see who he's using for his kitchen project. Might help, couldn't hurt.

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Any DC general contractor recommendations?  (OHI, for example, seemed to be licensed only in VA and all their testimonials came from VA).

I'd mostly be swapping out cabinets and appliances (not taking down walls) and I think that gas/electrical/plumbing/ductwork is pretty much in place.  We bought the house just before they started construction about 18 years ago, so I had input on what goes where back then and, given the space, I think the original layout is close to optimal..  We've never done any renovation work and I really don't know where to start with a project like this.  (Friends' kitchen renovations have always seemed much more complicated -- e.g. changing the footprint of the house.)

Not surprisingly, what motivates me is the prospect of upgrading the cooking equipment (I'm coveting a Bluestar rangetop and Dacor Renaissance wall ovens).  So maybe I'll try to start with a trip to ABW and set up an appointment with a cabinetmakier.  Should I be starting with a GC or a kitchen designer instead?

Oh and for anyone who frets about hardwood floors in a kitchen (I did) or wonders whether dark granite is the way to go, I have to say that, 18 years later (and with no absolutely effort beyond occasional sweeping/wiping with a wet cloth), both have held up amazingly well.  I'd keep the granite if I could (probably can't) and unless the cabinet replacement process either mangles or reveals hidden problems with the floor, it isn't even at the point where it needs refinishing yet.

Will ask my brother who he is using too, they were working on a strict but adequate budget and he really liked the job the person is doing, attention to detail and finishing.  Harmony Remodeling is the name.  He really liked them. And I really like his kitchen, well it's not my style, but it's super cute and exactly what they wanted.

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We are in the beginning stages of remodeling our kitchen and I'm thinking we need a designer to help with the layout and maximize the space.  Can anyone recommend an affordable designer who works in Montgomery County.  Not looking for a one stop shop as we have a contractor that we would like to use.

Also, open to any suggestions of things to include and to avoid from those of you who have been through this before.

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Under cabinet lighting is awesome, but get LEDs, otherwise the cabinets will heat up, which will decrease the shelf life of oils, spices, chocolates, etc.

Get a powerful enough hood to handle whatever stove you choose, and if at all possible give it a direct run to the exterior (fewer turns in the pipes = more efficient exhausting of smoke and grease).

If you get a gas stove, get one that won't shut off the flow of gas if the power goes out - at least you can light it with a match and cook.

I still hate my Thermador ovens.  A friend who is a serious baker adores hers.

Don't let a designer dazzle you with bells and whistles.  Think about how you use a kitchen and design around that.  I have seen way too many kitchens that were all for show, then when serious cooks try to use them, they become horribly frustrated.

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Place your sink & longest workspace with your dominant hand in mind.  Righties should put it to the right of the sink, lefties to the left.

I found using graph paper and cut-up post-its very helpful in roughing out a layout

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We are in the beginning stages of remodeling our kitchen and I'm thinking we need a designer to help with the layout and maximize the space.  Can anyone recommend an affordable designer who works in Montgomery County.  Not looking for a one stop shop as we have a contractor that we would like to use.

Also, open to any suggestions of things to include and to avoid from those of you who have been through this before.

As I think I posted previously in this thread, choose base cabinets (the ones below the countertop) with drawers, not doors with shelves. Very wide drawers. You will get far better use from the space and it is infinitely easier to get at things.  Three rather than four is best -- that way you will have at least one with lots of depth to store your large items like big pots and pans. (Google "base cabinet drawers" and look at the images)   Also something we did that worked pretty well was to install a strip of electrical plugs just under the island and peninsula countertops, along their length, above the drawer openings (our cabinets were custom made and 38" high so there was room).  That way you have an easy-to-access electrical outlet every foot or so along your counter. (Google "electrical plug strip kitchen" and look at the images).

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Place your sink & longest workspace with your dominant hand in mind.  Righties should put it to the right of the sink, lefties to the left.

I don't think I understand this bit of advice. I have a new kitchen (that is, new to me, in my new-to-me condo, not recently redesigned or renovated), and my main, though not longest, work space has the sink on the right and the range on the left of it, which I, a righty, find just perfect. I don't think I've ever had a kitchen with range-workspace (with dishwasher under it)-sink, reading left to right, before, and it's the best arrangement I can think of. Why would I want the main workspace to the right of the sink?

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When choosing cabinets, especially around areas with flying food and water (sink, trash, stove) be mindful of the ease or hassle in cleaning them

We love the look of our new cabinets, but there's a tiny little groove just off the outer edge.  It's maybe 1/8 inch wide and a half inch deep and it's a pain to clean.  Water from the sink gets stuck in there and I'm constantly trying to shove the corner of a towel in the groove and dry off the water.

We probably could have found the same cabinets without the groove and would have been much happier.

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Great to get notes from the DR community. Things I've noted that I would like to put in a new kitchen is a double sink and probably a faucet with a foot pedal. Does anyone have a foot-operated sink?
 
Porcupine--what is the benefit of under cabinet lighting?

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Under cabinet lighting is good if you're working at the counter below the cabinets (like on a cutting board).  The typical ceiling lights won't light up your work area because your body will block the light and cause shadows.  You won't have this problem with under cabinet lighting.

Also if you can, put in a lot more lights than you think you need......you can always turn lights off if it's too bright, but it's very expensive add lights later if it's too dark

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I don't think I understand this bit of advice. I have a new kitchen (that is, new to me, in my new-to-me condo, not recently redesigned or renovated), and my main, though not longest, work space has the sink on the right and the range on the left of it, which I, a righty, find just perfect. I don't think I've ever had a kitchen with range-workspace (with dishwasher under it)-sink, reading left to right, before, and it's the best arrangement I can think of. Why would I want the main workspace to the right of the sink?

I've read this in a few design articles, and it deals with the efficiency of prepping ingredients.  You keep the chopping board sort of close to the sink, move the prepped ingredients farther down the counter and dump the bits for the garbage disposal backward into the sink.  I've got a tiny, essentially square workspace but the sink is to my left (I am a rightie) and that is the way I instinctively set up my prep.  A left-hand dominant cook would have to do a lot more stopping, arranging and restarting in my kitchen with the layout.

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When choosing cabinets, especially around areas with flying food and water (sink, trash, stove) be mindful of the ease or hassle in cleaning them

We love the look of our new cabinets, but there's a tiny little groove just off the outer edge.  It's maybe 1/8 inch wide and a half inch deep and it's a pain to clean.  Water from the sink gets stuck in there and I'm constantly trying to shove the corner of a towel in the groove and dry off the water.

We probably could have found the same cabinets without the groove and would have been much happier.

I would generalize this comment a bit further.  Any horizontal surface, no matter how small, will gather dust and grime.  Cabinet doors with those decorative cutouts around the edge, that most seem to have, fit this description.  Unless you hate 100% flat cabinet doors, you might think about flat doors -- much easier to keep clean.  However, I'd avoid shiny finishes, especially on a flat door but really any door.  They are also a pain to keep looking good.  Go for some texture in the finish.

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Great to get notes from the DR community. Things I've noted that I would like to put in a new kitchen is a double sink and probably a faucet with a foot pedal. Does anyone have a foot-operated sink?

I've never seen, or even thought of, a faucet with a foot pedal in a residential kitchen but love that idea!

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This is some great stuff. The whole process is a little overwhelming, too many decisions. Any suggestions on appliances and cabinets.

Cooktop

Dishwasher - leaning towards a Bosch

Wall Oven

Microwave - will be built into island

Refrigerator - reusing our 4 year old cabinet depth Kitchen Aid, so far so good

Met with a design firm today and the are recommending Mouser cabinets. Don't know much about them.

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I've read this in a few design articles, and it deals with the efficiency of prepping ingredients.  You keep the chopping board sort of close to the sink, move the prepped ingredients farther down the counter and dump the bits for the garbage disposal backward into the sink.  I've got a tiny, essentially square workspace but the sink is to my left (I am a rightie) and that is the way I instinctively set up my prep.  A left-hand dominant cook would have to do a lot more stopping, arranging and restarting in my kitchen with the layout.  

Perhaps I'm being obtuse, but I still don't understand this. What difference does it make whether you push the waste bits to the left or to the right? I can do either with equal facility using my dominant right hand. As long as the prepped ingredients end up closer to the stove (on my left, in my kitchen) and the waste ends up closer to the sink (on the right, in my kitchen), what's the difference? To me the really important thing is that your main work area is between the sink and the stove on the same side of the kitchen. Most of the home kitchens I've cooked in over the decades have had the sink and the stove opposite each other, and that sucks, especially in a non-galley kitchen like my mother's, where the main prep area is next to the sink, and the stove is nine or ten feet away, across the room.

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Any suggestions on appliances and cabinets.

Met with a design firm today and the are recommending Mouser cabinets. Don't know much about them.

Good luck! When picking cabinets and granite counter tops, my wife nearly had a medical issue! Not sure what it was but it was similar to the feeling of being on a roller coaster and feeling sick. At both places, she reached a breaking point and had to get out of the store immediately! Choice overload, color overload, wood type overload, style overload, etc, etc. And then came the decision on the drawer pulls! Oy!

Anyhow, this may not be convenient to you since I think I recall you saying you were in Maryland/Bethesda (maybe not?), but our builder who we really liked has been working with Mid South Building Supply, Inc. for years. They're just outside the beltway off Braddock Rd in North Springfield. Our builder was recommending two brands that he used a lot and people were very happy with over many years. One was Kraftmade which is what we went with and I don't recall the other name, but it was slightly more expensive. We went with Kraftmade because we could both agree on the style, not because of the price!

I do recall the builder explaining a bit about both brands from a quality perspective. I.E. "never had an issue in 20 years" "built to last" etc. One thing to look for is how the drawers are made. Are the side walls and the front of the drawer just glued together or does the wood interlock (sort of like tongue and groove flooring). I remember him telling us how cheaply make cabinets would have the doors of the drawers coming off in a few years.

Speaking of drawers, be sure to get some big drawers (think the size of larger dresser drawers in your bedroom, or larger) for pots and pans. We have them on both sides of the stove and they are great. Much easier than squatting down and trying to figure out what's buried way in the back.

We also have a tall and thin cabinet next to the sink that is great for storing cutting boards. It goes from the floor up to the height of the counter and it's maybe 6 or 8 inches wide (actually it might be a little wider - - it has a divider down the center so it's actually two tall and thin storage areas). We really like it since the cutting boards are right there where you're working, but it also was a nice way to make sure there wasn't and dead space that couldn't be taken up by a traditional sized drawers

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Are you redoing the overhead lighting, too?  If so, I adore my LED can lighting.  These replaced our incandescent can lighting and the lighting is more even, they do not heat the kitchen up, and I have not replaced a light bulb in the kitchen since installing them several years ago.  In theory, it will be another 15+ years before I need to replace a light bulb in the kitchen.  

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Does anyone have experience with Ikea kitchens? I just saw their new line. Love the look and the widgets are enticing.... I would not be installing them myself. 

I don't have any experience with the new line, and I recommend waiting for further reviews until using, but the old line shells were really good and solid. I've seen warping of the old line's cabinet doors, but other than that, haven't had heard anything else negative about them.

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"Speaking of drawers, be sure to get some big drawers (think the size of larger dresser drawers in your bedroom, or larger) for pots and pans. We have them on both sides of the stove and they are great. Much easier than squatting down and trying to figure out what's buried way in the back."

I not only have deep drawers under my stovetop for pots and pans, I also have my plates, platters, and bowls in deep drawers under the kitchen island (actually a peninsula). It is great because no overhead heavy lifting of stacks of plates is required. And another deep drawer is a messy but easy repository for all things storage-related (tupperware type containers.) I also have a narrow drawer for cutting boards and pot holders under the stove, and one in the island  for placemats/napkins, etc.

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Well, it's time for me to bite the bullet and Do This Thing.  I've been thinking about it for years and I am stumped.  Too many questions, too many choices.

  • Decided it's crazy to change the basic layout, we're ok with the layout, just need a better cooktop, counters, lighting.  But I kinda wish the window over the sink was bigger.
  • Cabinets are still pretty much OK, although they are decidedly mid-grade.  Some of them might need refinishing.  The idea of putting them into a landfill seems bad for the environment. OTOH, I hate the wasted space of blind corners. 
  • I hate, hate, hate the wall tiles.  BUT, do I really need to rip out the drywall to get rid of them?  In that case, the cabinets need to come off, and if they are taken off, will they survive?
  • Is the HVAC vent that circles the ceiling for real or for show?  Can it be removed or moved to allow for taller upper cabinets or storage space above the cabinets?
  • Kitchen is U-shaped with a peninsula on one side.  Could we put in an island?  Do we want to put in an island?  Are islands a better solution for a galley kitchen than a U-shaped kitchen?
  • Can I put a double wall oven next to the refrigerator?  There would be no landing area, so probably not a good idea?

No doubt I could find an expert to answer these questions, but I have no idea who.

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  • Can I put a double wall oven next to the refrigerator?  There would be no landing area, so probably not a good idea?

No doubt I could find an expert to answer these questions, but I have no idea who.

FWIW my double oven is right next to my refrigerator (actually its the free standing freezer half of a fridge/freezer duo) and it never has seemed to be a problem.  My island is right there so I use it as a landing area, but yes it would be a problem if you have no place to put things when you take them out of the oven.

There are lots of kitchen designers out there, but of course you pay the price if you go that route.

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When doing a kitchen remodel that is significant, like a complete gutting, I would consider consulting a structural engineer. If you plan on adding significant weight to the kitchen - lots of new/bigger cabinets, heavy counter tops, bigger/better/more applicances, a kitch bookshelf with the load of those huge cookbooks, etc - you should make sure that the walls and floor are correctly supported.

Believe me, I speak from experience. It is a LOT easier to fix structural things BEFORE you do the big remodel (or as a part of it) than trying to fix things after there is a problem.

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Kitchen renovation is on my list for my next big project some time down the road and my conundrum is that my place's HOA only permits electric-operated appliances, so no gas stove. (Daydreaming about renovation a lot.) I have two issues: 1. Is there a decent electric range or cooktop brand out there? and 2. What is the benefit of getting a range vs. cooktop + wall oven?

Thanks.

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Kitchen renovation is on my list for my next big project some time down the road and my conundrum is that my place's HOA only permits electric-operated appliances, so no gas stove. (Daydreaming about renovation a lot.) I have two issues: 1. Is there a decent electric range or cooktop brand out there? and 2. What is the benefit of getting a range vs. cooktop + wall oven?

Thanks.

Will they let you have a coal-fired one?   :)  I've heard of many strange HOA requirements, but that seems a bit beyond, certainly if you have an underground or otherwise hidden propane tank. Oh well!

You might want to consider an electric induction range or rangetop.

A wall oven typically means less stooping over, which becomes a more salient benefit as the years pass by.  Trust me on this.  It also means you have a little more flexibility in your choice of features of each item, since they are separate and can be even different brands if you want.

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I love my wall oven and wouldn't go back to a range if I could avoid it.  I hate bending down and getting that blast of hot air that comes from a range oven.  It's easier and faster to juggle pans around if you need to do that while things are cooking with a wall oven.  Just be sure to get one large enough.  My kitchen had new appliances when I bought but the basic layout hadn't been upgraded, so the wall oven they gave me fit the existing cabinets, and it's too small. I can't fit a big roasting pan with fixed handles in it.

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Kitchen renovation is on my list for my next big project some time down the road and my conundrum is that my place's HOA only permits electric-operated appliances, so no gas stove. (Daydreaming about renovation a lot.) I have two issues: 1. Is there a decent electric range or cooktop brand out there? and 2. What is the benefit of getting a range vs. cooktop + wall oven?

Thanks.

Good suggestions above.  If I could have a whole kitchen and not the tiny one in my condo I would get an induction range and separate oven, but I don't have that kind of space.  I think it gives you extra layout options, so you might be able to utilize your space better. You can put cabinets under the range, put the oven on a wall, etc.  Plus you don't have the wasted warming drawer space or etc.  I dream about hoods, but that isn't going to happen in my condo.

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I am just starting to look into a kitchen remodel -- I may not have a sufficient budget at this point, but then again I might -- but I'm trying to get as many ideas settled as possible while I'm still in the just-thinking-about-it stage.  I found this site with a lot of good basic information to use while I play with graph paper & stickies.

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Has anyone tried the custom-made retrofit pull-out drawers from Costco?  http://www.costco.com/Made-to-Fit-Slide-out-Shelves-For-Existing-Cabinets-By-Slide-A-Shelf%09.product.11262818.html

These would make my "why are kitchens designed by people who don't cook" cabinets a lot less obnoxious, but I am not sure that the crappy particleboard interior walls of my cabinets could support the mounting hardware.

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These would make my "why are kitchens designed by people who don't cook" cabinets a lot less obnoxious, but I am not sure that the crappy particleboard interior walls of my cabinets could support the mounting hardware. 

I'm laughably inept at carpentry, but is there some sort of plate (a hardware plate; not a dinner plate) you can put up on the interior walls that could serve as a brace for the mounting hardware? I'm envisioning something the size of a piece of notebook paper that will distribute the forces over a broader area when you hang something onto it.

This question has been brought to you by Herschel's Bridge Posts!

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Well, it looks like my remodel is going to happen.  I fell in love with the new Ikea cabinet line and I'm turning my house on it's head and putting the kitchen in a completely different room than before.  Won't be much extra cost -- I wasn't going to leave anything in its original placement if I used the original kitchen.  After reading this thread, the one thing I'm sorry about is that just because of the way my sink cabinet fits in the line of cabinets and available space, I don't think I can get the 30" sink.   Oh well.  I'll do some more jiggling and see if I can make it happen.

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I'm about a month out from breaking ground on the kitchen project.  I've been spending a lot of the day online looking at stone slabs that different fabricators have in stock.  Does anyone have recommendations for granite fabricators or suppliers?  My fabrication will be simple -- basically two long straight counters each with one cut-out, so I don't need to find someone skilled at oddly-angled cuts

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We had a positive experience with Pyramid Granite in Springfield, Virginia. http://www.pyramidgranite.us/ 

They were very easy to work with and have a great selection with competitive prices. They were recommended by the contractor who did our extensive home remodel. Our space was large and the cuts somewhat complex. We are very happy with their work three years later - the counters have held up well.  They also helped get us out of a jam that another granite provider got us into- we wanted an exotic but small piece for our hearth. The other provider sold us a piece of granite that arrived cut to the wrong size and then refused to fix it or pick up the piece of stone. We went back to Pyramid, found a better priced, better quality piece of stone that we liked much better. They delivered that piece of stone quickly as well.

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Thanks for the input, lekkerwijn.

I'm looking at the budget and looking at possible trade-offs to free up some bucks for one thing or another.  So, I'm going with electric double wall ovens (non-negotiable for me), but do I really really want convection?  That adds about $1k to the oven cost, so is it worth it?  I think I want it but I've never had it.

Any convection oven owners out there that can offer any insight?

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Thanks for the input, lekkerwijn.

I'm looking at the budget and looking at possible trade-offs to free up some bucks for one thing or another.  So, I'm going with electric double wall ovens (non-negotiable for me), but do I really really want convection?  That adds about $1k to the oven cost, so is it worth it?  I think I want it but I've never had it.

Any convection oven owners out there that can offer any insight?

How do you use your oven-do you do any baking? Mostly roasting, broiling? We never had convection previously either, but Mr. S wanted it and I find I do like it, but also did fine without it before. I am also surprised it adds that much to the cost! For 1k I don't know that we would go for it either. What brand oven are you considering?

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I haven't settled on a brand yet, but it won't be any of the high-end makers.  It seems the typical household brands are fairly evenly reviewed and priced, feature-for-feature.

I do some baking -- not all that often, but when I do, it's in really big quantities and often with a friend over to make a day of it (holiday cookies, a bushel or two  of peaches to make into lots of lovelies, and the like).  I also like to roast and braise a lot.  I know convection is not good for braising, but I do roast stuff 2-3x week.

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I think most of Consumer Reports' recommended ovens do have convection in just one of the ovens. Are you looking at two ovens in different locations, and not a double oven? I attached the double-oven ratings, and Consumers does have a single oven ratings list as well. Whirlpool has one that is the top recommended, and $800 more than the Maytag without convection, but the difference in price between the two Maytags is $1k.  You'd have to look at the other options to see what else is different as the difference may be for a more reliable or better cleaning options and not just due to the convection feature. Plus you may come up on a sale that offers a better deal one way or the other...

Ratings Selector.pdf

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