DonRocks Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Other than second-hand information from a hotel employee, I don't have much detail to add, but Frank Ruta is apparently going to be the chef at the Cappella Hotel at 1050 31st St. NW in Georgetown. I doubt "The Grill Room" will keep its name if that's the case, but for now that's all I know - I'm waiting to hear back from Frank. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tweaked Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Kliman dropped a hint of this in his Tuesday chat yesterday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deac Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Sietsema confirmed in his chat today 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveO Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 And on a basis completely unrelated to the restaurant that property was a 50 year old office building designed by Vlastimil Koubek, a prolific architect in the Washington DC region. It was owned for years by the American Trial Lawyers Association before selling it about 5 or 6 years ago for about $18 million and seeing it redeveloped into a chic boutique hotel. Wonderful setting in a quaint part of Georgetown enhanced by sitting abreast the Georgetown section of the C & O Canal. Great area for dining. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Boy Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Except it is not near metro, that is. But I do not even care about no metro and lousy parking options. If Frank's got a new permanent spot, I am giddy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithstg Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 PSA: The Capella is probably the best hotel of its type in DC. With Frank Ruta, it has now become a dining destination, and has more than just a great bar. What fantastic news! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdt Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Story here. Oh and the name stays. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Boy Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Well the name stays for now. My guess is it will eventually change. So excited!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squidsdc Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 I was thrilled when I saw this! And it's also great to know that some of the CityZen folk might have new stomping grounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhone1998 Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Those of you who followed Palena on Facebook may have just seen this photo he posted. Beautiful! http://t.co/stxk9jO2gF 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Those of you who followed Palena on Facebook may have just seen this photo he posted. Beautiful! http://t.co/stxk9jO2gF Amazing. That's food as art but, with him, you know it's freakin' delicious too. At his suggestion, we're holding off on a visit to the Grille Room until early Spring when he'll have his menu really in full bloom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielK Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 darkstar, do you have any more intel on "early spring"? We are holding a reservation for a special occasion dinner on 3/22 - should we wait? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 darkstar, do you have any more intel on "early spring"? We are holding a reservation for a special occasion dinner on 3/22 - should we wait? Chef Ruta's exact words to me were "maybe wait until March" so guessing you should be fine. And, important to also say I'm guessing the food now and in Feb will be very good; just a more straightforward hotel menu he's executing until the transition is complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Boy Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 We're hoping to go in late Feb...with an eye to many more. My guess is that he and his team are house curing, smoking, pickling andyounameiting all of his fine foodstuffs he includes as 'easter eggs' in his dishes which is why he is saying wait until march Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 We're hoping to go in late Feb...with an eye to many more. My guess is that he and his team are house curing, smoking, pickling andyounameiting all of his fine foodstuffs he includes as 'easter eggs' in his dishes which is why he is saying wait until march Zero doubt there. That along with just getting the lay of the land, establishing the right working relationships with owners and fully understanding the different needs for a hotel restaurant as distinct from his own destination (and neighborhood!) restaurant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jm chen Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 We stopped in for brunch this past weekend hoping to get an early peek but the old menu is still in place. Our server said there are just a few Ruta touches on the dinner menu so far and a bigger changeover is planned around the 18th of this month -- first dinner, then lunch. We made sure to put in a plea for the donuts. We miss the donuts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 We stopped in for brunch this past weekend hoping to get an early peek but the old menu is still in place. Our server said there are just a few Ruta touches on the dinner menu so far and a bigger changeover is planned around the 18th of this month -- first dinner, then lunch. We made sure to put in a plea for the donuts. We miss the donuts. Did you still enjoy it? Chef Ruta had suggested March for those of us who follow him like The Dead (the band; not literal). And, guessing any donuts will be the domain of Aggie Chin, one of the city's best pastry chefs still in the early years of her career now at Capella with him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Boy Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 I miss their donuts too!We have friends going day after tomorrow. We're shooting for later this month or early next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jm chen Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 We thought we remembered hearing February back at the final Bread Feast, but clearly March is a better bet. The server did say she'd ask Aggie about the donuts after hearing us go into raptures about them. The space is lovely, with a nice view of the canal during the day. The bread was outstanding, with butter at exactly the right temperature (one of our measures of a place that's paying attention). We wouldn't necessarily go back for the current menu (not the one on the website, by the way) so we're looking forward to another visit after the full Frank takeover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Boy Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 The bread was outstanding, with butter at exactly the right temperature (one of our measures of a place that's paying attention). EXACTLY! By the way, Frank just Instagrammed a Leg-o-Lamb spi-o-rama. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 ...The bread was outstanding, with butter at exactly the right temperature (one of our measures of a place that's paying attention). We wouldn't necessarily go back for the current menu (not the one on the website, by the way) so we're looking forward to another visit after the full Frank takeover. There's a reason why so many great chefs and other food professionals in this city point to Chef Ruta as teacher,mentor and role model for what great technique and food can be. If you've never seen it, go to the home page here on the site while logged in and, at lower right, you'll see "most liked content." Click it and the most popular post is a fantastic homage to Frank Ruta. Or, easier, here's the link. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lori Gardner Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 I have a reservation for late February. wondering if I should change it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty L. Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 There's a reason why so many great chefs and other food professionals in this city point to Chef Ruta as teacher,mentor and role model for what great technique and food can be. If you've never seen it, go to the home page here on the site while logged in and, at lower right, you'll see "most liked content." Click it and the most popular post is a fantastic homage to Frank Ruta. Or, easier, here's the link. Speaking of which, has Julien Shapiro landed anywhere in these environs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 I have a reservation for late February. wondering if I should change it.... I wouldn't imagine you'd get a bad meal there but, speaking only for myself, Frank Ruta & Aggie Chin are 90% of my reason for going. So, mid or later March for us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Speaking of which, has Julien Shapiro landed anywhere in these environs? Great question but given how recent the change at ETR and not sure that he's a big social media guy, mostly crickets chirping with an online search. Don may know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbara Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Speaking of which, has Julien Shapiro landed anywhere in these environs? You could, actually, PM him here. No guarantee he'll respond, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Boy Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I wouldn't imagine you'd get a bad meal there but, speaking only for myself, Frank Ruta & Aggie Chin are 90% of my reason for going. So, mid or later March for us. Precisely. I am not sure I can wait that long though. With as brief a fix as a BreadFurst dinner holding me over, my ability to control myself is wearing thin. I am thinking first week of March-ish. Anyone know if any of the old Palena staff has made the leap over (esp Kelli)? Great question but given how recent the change at ETR and not sure that he's a big social media guy, mostly crickets chirping with an online search. Don may know? One of the best things I had *all year* in 2014 was this fish dish with the most amazing ratatouille hiding there in plain site served along with it. If Frank is Obi Wan, surely Julien must be Obi Wan jr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Slater Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Kelli works at the Oval Room. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Precisely. I am not sure I can wait that long though. With as brief a fix as a BreadFurst dinner holding me over, my ability to control myself is wearing thin. I am thinking first week of March-ish.Anyone know if any of the old Palena staff has made the leap over (esp Kelli)? Kelli is a true rock star. Great to know she's at the Oval Room, a spot we don't normally frequent without a good reason. One of the best things I had *all year* in 2014 was this fish dish with the most amazing ratatouille hiding there in plain site served along with it. If Frank is Obi Wan, surely Julien must be Obi Wan jr. Which, I guess, makes Aggie a younger version of Leia? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Boy Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Kelli works at the Oval Room. Yes, I think Frank told me that in October, now that you mention it. I hope she's doing well! Never been there (should I go?). Kelli is a true rock star. Great to know she's at the Oval Room, a spot we don't normally frequent without a good reason. Which, I guess, makes Aggie a younger version of Leia? Aggie = Leia - that's awesome and yes! I also wanted to mention Jonathan at Ghibellina - we had a few really good meals there in the past year, too. But of course, he's got his own thing going there. He froncoboldi en brodo and that porcini/balsamico ribeye are both tremendous dishes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tweaked Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Palena Burger/The Grill Room Burger. Debuts Feb. 28. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty L. Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Palena Burger/The Grill Room Burger. Debuts Feb. 28. Wasn't the Palena burger 7 or 9 dollars not too many years ago? And $12 or so in the late iterations of the cafe? Well . . . "The Grill Room Burger ($18-$21) will appear on the lunch menu at the Grill Room and on the bar menu at the Capella hotel's Rye Bar beginning February 28." Gulp. This is what I was afraid of. I'm sure that any restaurant run by Frank Ruta will be wonderful. But the (expense-account) customers they'll be aiming for in the Capella Hotel will preclude this from being the neighborhood restaurant of our dreams, as Palena once was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonRocks Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Wasn't the Palena burger 7 or 9 dollars not too many years ago? And $12 or so in the late iterations of the cafe? Well . . . "The Grill Room Burger ($18-$21) will appear on the lunch menu at the Grill Room and on the bar menu at the Capella hotel's Rye Bar beginning February 28." Gulp. This is what I was afraid of. I'm sure that any restaurant run by Frank Ruta will be wonderful. But the (expense-account) customers they'll be aiming for in the Capella Hotel will preclude this from being the neighborhood restaurant of our dreams, as Palena once was. You know what? You're probably right, Marty. But don't forget that Palena was losing money, and eventually had to be shut down. Both the burger and the chicken (a half-chicken! which came with greens!) were nine dollars when they debuted on Palena's front-room menu, and they stayed that way for years. But we can't be judging a 2015 A Capella against a 1990s Palena. It's better to have Frank a few times a year than not at all, and don't forget, many people don't think twice about bellying up to the bar at Central and shelling out $20 for a bacon cheeseburger, monstrous though it may be. Just as a general point, isn't it wonderful that we're talking about Frank Ruta again, rather than lamenting him being somewhere in Pittsburgh? We lost Fabio for awhile, and even though we're paying dearly for his return, we still got him back. One thing's for sure: food costs seem to have remained high, but when they first started skyrocketing, oil prices were cited as a primary reason why. The other day, I paid something like $2.15 a gallon for 87 octane unleaded, and it cost me $33 to fill my tank whereas it once went dangerously close to the $70 mark. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Boy Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 You know what? Just as a general point, isn't it wonderful that we're talking about Frank Ruta again, rather than lamenting him being somewhere in Pittsburgh? We lost Fabio for awhile, and even though we're paying dearly for his return, we still got him back. TRUTH. I may not like higher prices, but having access to Frank/Aggie food again is, IMHO, worth just about anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty L. Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 You know what? You're probably right, Marty. But don't forget that Palena was losing money, and eventually had to be shut down. Both the burger and the chicken (a half-chicken! which came with greens!) were nine dollars when they debuted on Palena's front-room menu, and they stayed that way for years. But we can't be judging a 2015 A Capella against a 1990s Palena. It's better to have Frank a few times a year than not at all, and don't forget, many people don't think twice about bellying up to the bar at Central and shelling out $20 for a bacon cheeseburger, monstrous though it may be. Just as a general point, isn't it wonderful that we're talking about Frank Ruta again, rather than lamenting him being somewhere in Pittsburgh? We lost Fabio for awhile, and even though we're paying dearly for his return, we still got him back. One thing's for sure: food costs seem to have remained high, but when they first started skyrocketing, oil prices were cited as a primary reason why. The other day, I paid something like $2.15 a gallon for 87 octane unleaded, and it cost me $33 to fill my tank whereas it once went dangerously close to the $70 mark. I agree with all of this, of course -- indeed, better to enjoy Frank's food one time a year than not at all! I only yearn for the perfect storm that once was the Platonic ideal of neighborhood restaurants, viz., when that burger was $9, and one had to choose between it and the ethereal ambrosia of the consomme (or even order both, and not break the bank!). 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Love Don's post above above with the right (imho) lens through which to view the current Grill Room setup. Very important perspective I think. Just clicking "like" wasn't enough? :-) That said, and this is NOT based on any inside information, I think the day will dawn again when Frank Ruta helms a kitchen where he has total control. Not sure where it will be, or what it will be called, but with the deserved following he has, I think it inevitable. Maybe a year from now. Maybe a few. If Vegas offered odds on this, I'd have placed my bet before posting this. And I'm not a gambler. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Boy Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 OK....I can't stand it. I just made reservations to go in early March. I must go. Must. Even if there are only still hints at/on the menu of the genius that this duo is/are, I don't care. I can wait no longer. Plus, they do corkage, which is always a bonus in my book. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 OK....I can't stand it. I just made reservations to go in early March. I must go. Must. Even if there are only still hints at/on the menu of the genius that this duo is/are, I don't care. I can wait no longer. Plus, they do corkage, which is always a bonus in my book. My favorite post of the past week. Maybe wear a small red carnation on your left lapel? We may be there the same night. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmoomau Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 OOoh I need a place that does corkage to take Matt we need to drink some bottles of nice wine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Boy Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 My favorite post of the past week. Maybe wear a small red carnation on your left lapel? We may be there the same night. :-) Saturday! I hear they have a largish party arriving at 8, so wondering if I should pull back my 7:45 ressies a smidge. If I could wear an aloha-wear jacket, I would (it's almost my trademark, but Dean may fight me for the title). Not to mention, I am so glad I made the ressies today when I did given this column. Also, given the new wine guy's desire to build the cellar from small producers, I might have to bring a couple he should load up on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Saturday! I hear they have a largish party arriving at 8, so wondering if I should pull back my 7:45 ressies a smidge. If I could wear an aloha-wear jacket, I would (it's almost my trademark, but Dean may fight me for the title). Not to mention, I am so glad I made the ressies today when I did given this column. Also, given the new wine guy's desire to build the cellar from small producers, I might have to bring a couple he should load up on. That sounds great. Goldston-Ruta-Chin is a definite culinary All-Star team for this city; just with the quirk that it's in a hotel. As for the aloha-wear jacket, I wouldn't worry too much about Dean. Haven't yet made it to his new Grotto spot in Shaw but, when he was in Cleveland Park, he pretty consistently wore aloha-wear SHIRTS. So, the kind of thing the Patent & Trade Office might cut you some slack on. You'll be there before us. Enjoy it and definitely report back, as I'm guessing you will enthusiastically, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Boy Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 That sounds great. Goldston-Ruta-Chin is a definite culinary All-Star team for this city; just with the quirk that it's in a hotel. As for the aloha-wear jacket, I wouldn't worry too much about Dean. Haven't yet made it to his new Grotto spot in Shaw but, when he was in Cleveland Park, he pretty consistently wore aloha-wear SHIRTS. So, the kind of thing the Patent & Trade Office might cut you some slack on. You'll be there before us. Enjoy it and definitely report back, as I'm guessing you will enthusiastically, Actually I do not have an aloha-wear jacket, but it'd be awesome don't you think? It sounds like they are easing in to converting the menu to Frank-style over time. I think I'll be getting a hint at what is to come, but it will be fun to see how it evolves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Actually I do not have an aloha-wear jacket, but it'd be awesome don't you think? It sounds like they are easing in to converting the menu to Frank-style over time. I think I'll be getting a hint at what is to come, but it will be fun to see how it evolves. Re: jacket. Absolutely! Something like this might fit the bill. Of course, important that it be 100% polyester as this is. Re: easing in. Exactly. I'm guessing you'll have a great meal Saturday, with some definite deja vu components. Then, at some point later, you'll be able to top it. A clear win/win. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas P Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Sorry for the belatedness of this report, I should have written this a month ago!When I learned that Frank Ruta was debuting some dishes during Restaurant Week I immediately made reservations for lunch and dinner. Both meals were wonderful, and the RW lunch was the most insane steal imaginable. I'll do my best to describe both meals, but the details are a little hazy from the time that's gone by.Dinner started with a fresh hot loaf of bread that had a fantastic crust, and some soft butter lightly sprinkled with a coarse salt that added a lovely crunch and flavor. I appreciate the attention paid to details, like serving the butter warm and using a nice salt, and we were off to a good start. The first course was a rapini salad accompanied by some delicious fried slices of lemon. I wish I knew more about cooking so I could figure out how to make those lemon slices, because I kind of want to put them on everything. It could be the easiest thing in the world, but I know if I were to slice up lemon, bread it, and fry it, it wouldn't bear any resemblance to what I had. The next course was braised beef, which was so wonderfully tender it basically melted from the fork into my mouth. It was deeply and intensely flavorful; my only complaint was that the spicing was a little clove-heavy for my taste (and I like clove!), but I still enjoyed every moment of it. It came with a small dish of thinly sliced potatoes that had a really nice bite of citrus. Dessert was a Baked Alaska, which was a delicious end to a delicious meal.Lunch started off with the bread again, allowing me ample opportunity to scatter a mess of crumbs all over the table before the salad arrived. The first course was a blood orange salad that knocked my socks clean off. I was a little giddy to see the fried lemon slices make a repeat appearance, cut up into smaller pieces this time. It was also sprinkled with fried capers, which I never had the joy of experiencing before. Those things are such amazing little crunchy bombs of flavor, I'm surprised I haven't see them used more often. Then came the chicken. Enough has already been said about the chicken around these forums, and it was just as good as I remember from Palena. Accompanying it was a small cast iron bowl of black eyed pea soup that was simply wonderful. I wish I had a bigger bowl of it, the soup was so warm and flavorful and just put a big stupid smile of "I can die in peace" contentment on my face. Dessert was the Baked Alaska again. While it was just as tasty as before, this is where my lone complaint from an amazing lunch came. At dinner, it was an entire, small Baked Alaska. For lunch, they served a slice from a larger one instead. The slice was so thin and tall that it was impossible to keep the whole thing standing, and the cast iron dish it was on was so narrow that it kept threatening to take a nosedive over the edge straight onto the table. I had to dismantle the whole thing on my plate in order to eat it.Altogether, I'd say the caliber of food for both RW meals was comparable with Palena Cafe with flashes from the dining room. I took a peek at the regular menu price for the chicken: it was either $27 or $29 (I think $29), a healthy bump from what it was before, but still worth it. I still have a really hard time believing that that lunch was ever available for $20.15. The dinner was also a steal at $35.15. What really blew my mind was that the dining room was close to empty the entire time I was there for lunch. I think there was just one table in a corner and one other table next to me, and the people next to me weren't even doing the RW menu. During dinner the dining room never even hit half full. It continually astounds me how little attention the DC food world pays to one of its greatest chefs. I'm really itching to see what Ruta starts putting out here after he's had time to tweak and fine tune his new menu. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Boy Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Accompanying it was a small cast iron bowl of black eyed pea soup that was simply wonderful. I wish I had a bigger bowl of it, the soup was so warm and flavorful and just put a big stupid smile of "I can die in peace" contentment on my face. The thing about Frank's food is that the accompaniments, hiding in plain sight, often steal the show from the main part of his dishes/entrees. The attention to detail is par for the course for Frank (and Aggie), but exceptional compared to the rest of the world of chefs out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 The thing about Frank's food is that the accompaniments, hiding in plain sight, often steal the show from the main part of his dishes/entrees. The attention to detail is par for the course for Frank (and Aggie), but exceptional compared to the rest of the world of chefs out there. So very true. The pickles (and ketchup) with the burger. Capers and edible citrus rind. And on and on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Two days before awesomeness ensues. Can. Not. Wait. You're a cruel dude...of course in a way I know you totally don't intend. On a more substantive note, a business associate of mine is in town and went last night with his wife. They're from the Bay Area, of course home to a few awesome eateries themselves. I couldn't get details today but may tomorrow morning. All I got so far was "quite excellent" but that's from someone who goes wherever his wife books with neither of them having any sense for who Frank Ruta is. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Boy Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 Short review as I have no time until tonight to go this properly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wow. OK a tease - rabbit en porchetta 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkstar965 Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 OK a tease - rabbit en porchetta If you'd put this on WDID?, not sure I'd have guessed rabbit. But the gorgeous composition screams Ruta. Looking forward to your review. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Pool Boy Posted March 9, 2015 Popular Post Share Posted March 9, 2015 OK, here we go. Getting There This is in Georgetown, so it is kind of a pain to get to, but easier on the weekends. Still, during dinner, my wife and I discussed how me might be able to meet up for dinner, or a Rye Bare snack/dinner on a weeknight. I would drive in from work in Bethesda, and she'd use the Circulator buses to get from L'Enfant to the Capella Hotel. They offer valet parking for $11, which is worth it to me. No worries finding a spot and it is ready to go when you are without any hassle. The staffer outside and by the door was warm and friendly. The Hotel I did not really focus too much on the hotel itself, but they had some interesting art in the small lobby area. We wandered by the front desk and the staffer there walked us around to the right, past the Rye Bar and on to the dining room when we mentioned we were there for dinner. Nice touch. The Rye Bar was already somewhat busy at 7:30-ish. Did not notice if anyone was grabbing a burger or not (more on that later). The Welcome and The Space We were met by two staffers dressed better than I was (i wore a jacket, nice shirt, jeans and shoes) at the front desk area of the dining room. Behind them is a wall of glass that is one of the walls of the private dining area and has a nice design on it that provides a measure of privacy for those diners and interest for everyone. After providing our name, they showed us in (and correctly pronounced my difficult to pronounce last name perfectly - kudos) to the dining room (they were both nice, but a smidgen stiff - I am still used to Kelli's warm greetings at Palena, so I am spoiled). Walls of glass line both sides of the room - on the outside edge of the building is the wall of glass abutting the canal view. Apparently just outside is where you can dine al fresco as the weather permits. Nice. The interior glass wall was the space where private dining occurs. It was set up for 8, but I think you miiiiiight be able to squeeze 10 in there. No idea on the minimums to dine in there. Oy! The tables are....very deep. They provide a luxe tableau on which to present food in an uncramped manner, but they are, for me, about 3 or 4 inches too deep. Still, it was not difficult to carry on a conversation. There was no difficulty in hearing or needing to raise a voice to be heard. The tables are all spaced appropriately, none are too close to each other. The seats are wonderful. Extremely comfortable and the kind you could sit in for hours enjoying a great meal - this detail alone, to me, is superb. And while there is no 'corner two-top' like the kind the Palena back dining room had, with broad views for both diners of the full room, it's a good space. There is one wall (and a corner round table) with a banquette (sp?) and a wall of what appeared to be dark pressed tin for some nice visual interest. They could use some art, but really that is a ridiculously minor nit. The Service All of the folks we encountered were well dressed, cordial, knowledgeable and helpful. Some were a bit stiff at first, but they opened up as the evening unwrapped. We interacted most with our server (her name....started with a D? N? I can't remember), and Keith the sommelier. Keith and I chatted a bit about a wine I'd brought ($25 corkage) as I knew he is starting to build their cellar. He was itching to break out some of his tools of the trade, so we opted to decant the 2006 Bressler Cabernet Sauvignon, and I am glad we did (initially closed, it opened to reveal loads of cherry, black raspberry, sharpie black magic marker, some element of five spice (which went superb with the suckling pig three ways) and more). The stems (Schott Zwiesel as I recall), are worth the price of admission (I think you could fit an entire bottle in one stem if you tried). Our server was good and unobtrusive, but I think realized how much we were enjoying the meal over time. We ended up with an extra dessert, which was of course great. Departing was easy as well, and after a brief pause for coats and car, we were on our way. The Rye Bar at this time (past 11) was really packed. A couple of very minor nits on service -- Needed ask for the cocktails menu. When the one seafood starter was brought, there was no spoon or seafood spoon/fork thinger (I don't know what to call it) - you needed something other than your finger or tongue to sop up the sauce that came with it!! The really need to expand their wine list, but I know that is going to happen. I will leave my only real issue of the night to the broken out section below. By the by, their cocktails menu is loaded with rye based drinks (big surprise, and to my delight, but oddly no Sazerac), but I assume they can make any drink you want. We had one called something-something morals - a gin and ginger based drink that was good, but a smidge heavy on the ginger. I had a Gold & Grain that involved rye and Pernod among other tidbits - I highly recommend this one. Refreshing and delicious (and expensive). The Food, What You All Really Want To Know Generally, the portions are larger than what you would have expected at Palena (back dining room, circa 2008/9 to 2014, earlier Palena dining room the current Grill Room portions are similar), but not always (gnocchi is almost exact amount, for example). So just plan accordingly. The menu is broken up in to starters & salads and then entrees. They bring you a desserts menu later. We opted for two starters each, then a main, and then dessert (and got an extra to share). At the end, we were pretty stuffed, but not overly so. Rabbit en Porchetta Any Palena regular has probably seen some variation of this dish in the past. But this is so, so good. Was it because I was suffering from withdrawal from Frank-food? No, I don't think so. The rabbit alone was perfection. Perfectly seasoned, perfectly tender and beautiful, a feast for the senses. But all of the accoutrements that came along with it provided endless exploration in to the mind of Frank. I mean, carefully cut endive, multiple sheer radish windows, barely picked niblets (pickled in beet juice?), cauliflower and more (a.....slaw? gremoulata? of a cabbage and other goodies?). Endless texture and flavor experimentation was possible. Really him just doing his thing. It is just that his thing is so good. Italian Chicories Salad Wonderful chicories accompanied by fried lemons, crispy capers and I think an egg. Expertly dressed and seasoned delivered at the peak of flavor. A treat. Lobster-Stuffed Dover Sole Accompanied by a few oysters, parsley, and the most amazing sauce. Delicious lobster was building the lily of the belly of Dover Sole, anchoring the dish, but the sauce, the sauce!!?! My gosh. There was no spoon available, so we ultimately had to resort to snipping off the very smallest piece of bread to sponge the sauce and part of the enamel of the dish to breathe in the goodness of that sauce. Really great. Gnocchi Little pillows of glory. Ephemerally light, these almost floated on the plate, barely held down with cubes of sweet potato, some (long grain?) rice cooked to just done to provide texture and a new flavor, these little (hoshmojeni???) mushrooms and fondat of cheese. I can make gnocchi at home. Pretty good at times. But nothing, nothing like this I tell you. Pork Chop This is a pork chop, a really good pork chop. I am guessing possibly brined, but maybe not. The fat was perfectly crispy and loaded with flavor to join the kiss of the grill for a decidedly delicious bit. Accentuated by the roasted cauliflower and unerringly prepared supple red onions (possible ever so slightly pickled, too? Not sure). This is not normally something I would expect to see on his menu, but might be a not to what the restaurant used to be and carrying through to its evolutionary change underway. It's like watching the woolly mammoths disappearing, but enjoying eating them along the way to seeing what is next. So good. Suckling Pig Three Ways....The What's Next <Sadly, the picture I thought I took didn't happen or gotten accidentally deleted -- a travesty!!> This can go very well, or go very wrong. But I had no fear. None. There was a stuffed breast, similar conceptually to the rabbit en porchetta I had earlier in the evening, but altogether different (warm, for one). With a nice fatty ring to hold it together, the firmer pork here was seasoned with pepper as a counterpoint to the other two porky elements on the dish. A braised, bone-in shoulder (HOW DO YOU DO THIS!???!) and, the piece de resistance, tiny little pork rib chops that were the most tender little glorious piggy things I have ever had. Incredible. And the tiny bits of potato, apple and kohlrabi (and sauces with hints of lemon and perhaps tiny wisps of, hmmm, beet juice? were amazing) - all cut in similar size to keep you guessing and surprised when a flavor hit you that you did not expect (echoes a play on a tuna and blood orange dish years ago from the same brilliant and devious mind). This dish was off the charts good. I mean, I love pork. I have had pork a bazillion different ways. But never like this, never in a way that made me stop, before I could even process it all and say whoa in a most Keanu way. I mean wow. Ricotta Light Cake with Candied Pistachios Blood Orange Sauce and more I only got one last of this. But it was perfectly sweet, but not too. Light, but satisfying. Cream details cut with precision by the blood orange. And texturally handled. This is what Aggie does so well. Brilliant. (Fuzzy) Georgetowner I am pretty sure Aggie's been messing with this concept for a while as I remember a variation of this called the Uptowner 2.0 at Palena. But this, this is something evolutionarily superior. She's clearly been tinkering. It's almost s'more like, but it has a base level of chocolate bordering on fudge at the bottom, but not declaring itself either. And the marshmallow is fresh and tacky but behaving, while the caramel is loaded with flavor and right in the perfection zone like the planet Earth is in the habitable goldilocks zone. And those little puffed rice niblets. This is the chocolate dessert for people who say they do not like chocolate and those who say they love chocolate alike. A triumph. A Cuppa Tea OMG. This was so unexpectedly good. A lemon cream base. Honey madeleines sticking in to the surface with bleeding kumquat-and-something-else shellac, nursing like a Star Trek Next Generation episode of galactic stellar whale beast babies nursing on the Enterprise. All held together with the bracing perfection of Earl Gray tea ice cream. I man HOW do you come up with this? It is one of the best things I have had as a dessert in a long, long time. The Price I would have to say, as compared to Palena, from my average experience is only slightly more expensive. Granted, I had more dinners in the dining room than the cafe, but still. We each had two starter courses, a main and a dessert, and then an extra dessert to split. Plus two (really expensive, but really good!) cocktails, a corkage fee and two coffees. After tax and tip we walked out at a hair over $300. I usually walked out of Palena for about $250 to $270 for the dining room, and maybe $50 less when at the cafe. This is maybe not an every day, or week or even monthly occurrence for most, but not outlandish by any means, especially considering the tab of a room at the hotel. The Rye Bar Beautiful space, very alluring, comfortable and cozy. Not very large, though, especially at the bar itself. I would find it.....difficult for people to actually eat something at the bar, or in the bar room even. I did not spend a lot of time poking my head in, so I may not know a damn thing I am talking about, so take it with that slant. Most of their drinks focus on rye, but I am sure they make plenty of other drinks just fine. Worth a look by me for a weeknight burger and/or chicken if that is possible. I will have to inquire. Only Issue The only real ding the night was about 20 minutes in, a 4-top was seated next to us. A fiftyish couple, and what turned out to be the parents of one of them. The woman of the couple was reeking of perfume. So much so that it stuffed my wife's nostrils up but good. When the 2-top next to us on the other side cleared 20 minutes later, we moved over to it, only to have our old table filled with another person with loads perfume on!! Fortunately, their party size grew and they quickly moved. Why do people put on so much perfume that people can smell them 30 feet away???!!! \goodgrief I know some restaurants are persnickety about this (The French Laundry is one), and I'd love to see more like it, but I may be in the minority. Final Thoughts The food is what people know Frank and Aggie for. But better. I mean that. They have both raised their game, believe it or not. The private dining room was occupied when we went. Frank posted a dish that was clearly not on the regular menu and he admitted it was one of the course to that room. A dish still in experimentation, but one I'd love to see and try! I assume his proposed meal is something that will come in the Spring or later. We'll see. The restaurant is going to have a strange dichotomy of diners, I think. There are hotel guests dropping $400 to $1,000+ or more to stay there, and they may dine in that night. Others will be food hounds like me, there for the gastro thrill ride. It'll be interesting to see how the clientele evolves over time. I'm only mildly concerned about what I witnessed as attire there. I fully expect to hit this place up in the summer with an amazing Hawaiian shirt, nice jeans and sandals. I think the staff will learn who is going to be a regular sooner or later. Hotel guests come and go. Locals stay and build the business and a following. Plus, I think as they figure this out, they'll loosen up a bit. I will be back, with gusto, for sure. I want to try the bar. I want to go there on a weeknight. I want to hit up the al fresco tables. I want to see the evolution. If this meal was just a hint at the future, we are all in for a treat. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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