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MattCraft

Wm. Mulherin's Sons - Italian with Wood-Fired Oven in the Mulherin's Hotel in Fishtown

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Had one of the best brunches I've eaten in a long, long time Sunday 2/5 morning. Wm. Mulherin's Sons is at the corner of Master and N. Front St in Fishtown in a historic building that was formerly the offices for a 19th century whiskey manufacturer.

We were seated in a room behind the bar with a real (=wood) fireplace that was stoked continuously throughout the morning. Although seating was a little tight (18 inches between two-tops) you could still focus on your companion without too much distraction from the parties on either side of you.

My bloody mary was mixed well with fresh horseradish, giving enough of a kick to pull me through my hangover. We started with the warm pound cake with banana, whipped ricotta, dark rum and cinnamon. I took a bite and just stared at it for a minute. My wife had to ask me if I was ok. I was, just stunned at how good it was. Although it had the potential to be treacly, it was the perfect amount of sweet.

My wife got the frittata with truffled burrata, smoked pancetta, mushrooms and potato. She raved about the burrata, and the truffle flavor was perfect in its subtleness, unlike so many places where it overwhelms the rest of whatever you are eating. The rest of the fritatta balanced the ingredients nicely in a substantial portion.

I ordered the Eggs on Volcano, their version of Uova al Purgatorio. Th two poached eggs come on top of a spicy tomato sauce (the heat coming from long hot peppers), guanciale and creamy polenta. Again, everything was in balance. The heat from the sauce was not insignificant, but also not overwhelming. Break the eggs and mix everything together and enjoy.

The service was top-notch, with the whole team of servers responding to requests (more cream for the very good coffee, more water to quell the spice of the tomato sauce). A neighboring table had an infant and some formula leaked from the diaper bag onto the bench and coats of the family. The manager rushed over before the mother looked up, grabbed the coat and rinsed it off, while another server helped clean up the formula leak. They were on top of everything.

When we return to Philly, we are definitely going to go back to try dinner. Or maybe bring some friends along for the family-style brunch which consists of a 24oz dry aged porterhouse, potatoes and a dozen eggs (scrambled or over easy).

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DonRocks   

I love this post, Matt. 

Did you by chance stay in their four-room hotel which houses the restaurant?

Also, did you notice if it's wood-fired oven *only*, or are there ranges as well?

Cheers,
Rocks

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