96 replies to this topic

[Joe Riley]

BREAKING!!!!!!!

2005 Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet was just given 90 POINTS by Josh Raynolds of Steven Tanzer's International Wine Cellar!! 90 POINTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!@!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!@!@!@!!!!!!!!!!!

Josh is a friend of mine, and he's nobody's fool. He certainly knows from good Muscadet and his palate is very discriminating. I don't get to chat with him often (just getting him on the phone is a miracle: getting him to return timely emails takes an act of Congress!) but I trust his judgment. Some of you may remember when he worked at Pearson's back in the '80's with David Schildknecht.

[jparrott]

I know Josh online as well, and he knows this stuff very well. Way too well .

[He also gave the 2005 Pepiere "Clos des Briords" 92 points. I have three magnums. Mmmm. Magnum muscadet!]

[Joe Riley]

UPDATE: I now have both of these Muscadets from Pépière in stock, the basic bottling and the Cuvée Eden. Contact me for further info. Special DR pricing to boot

[MMM]

I bought some at MacArthur this afternoon. At 3 p.m. they had 6 bottles left @ $8.99/bottle.

[zoramargolis]

I bought a bottle from Joe Riley at Ace today, even though I live only a block away from MacArthur. <Big hint here>. His DR.com member price was so good, that I was going to buy more. Joe told me that he is going to have lots of it, so I will wait until I taste it and make sure that I like it. Muscadet was our white wine of choice when we were starving artists and couldn't afford anything but the cheapest "good" wine. In those days, there was decent, cheap California red wine available (like Louis Martini Barbera--geez we must've had a zillion bottles of that in the mid-70's) but not much decent white wine that was affordable. I'm talking $2-$3 a bottle. So Muscadet it was. I've only had the occasional bottle in recent years, but it is usually a reliable, clean acidic white that goes well with food.

[mdt]

I bought a bottle from Joe Riley at Ace today, even though I live only a block away from MacArthur. <Big hint here>. His DR.com member price was so good, that I was going to buy more. Joe told me that he is going to have lots of it, so I will wait until I taste it and make sure that I like it. Muscadet was our white wine of choice when we were starving artists and couldn't afford anything but the cheapest "good" wine. In those days, there was decent, cheap California red wine available (like Louis Martini Barbera--geez we must've had a zillion bottles of that in the mid-70's) but not much decent white wine that was affordable. I'm talking $2-$3 a bottle. So Muscadet it was. I've only had the occasional bottle in recent years, but it is usually a reliable, clean acidic white that goes well with food.

You sure you have not tried it yet?

[MMM]

I opened up a bottle of the Pepiere last night with dinner of roast salmon. I have a cold so obviously it's not an ideal time to taste wine. But I was curious, so tried it anyway. It is indeed a nice pale golden yellow. I did't detect any effervescence. My husband thought it smelled like apricots, but I could only barely get a whiff of liquorice. Noticed that also in the taste. It was pleasantly dry. That was about it. Will try again when the dratted cold passes!

[cjsadler]

Finally got ahold of some of the Pepiere from Joe Riley (as well as the Cuvee Eden). Definitely refreshing-- I might even say 'bracing' (a word I don't think I've ever said aloud) in its lemony acidity. I typically don't pay much attention to color, but this may be the palest wine I've ever seen. The slight effervescence is nice-- is this typical of muscadets? And are all muscadets 'sur lie'? (I remember hearing the reason for this was to provide a bit of extra oomph, as otherwise muscadet can end up being a bit bland). What else besides oysters should I be drinking this with?

[Joe Riley]

Finally got ahold of some of the Pepiere from Joe Riley (as well as the Cuvee Eden). Definitely refreshing-- I might even say 'bracing' (a word I don't think I've ever said aloud) in its lemony acidity. I typically don't pay much attention to color, but this may be the palest wine I've ever seen. The slight effervescence is nice-- is this typical of muscadets? And are all muscadets 'sur lie'? (I remember hearing the reason for this was to provide a bit of extra oomph, as otherwise muscadet can end up being a bit bland). What else besides oysters should I be drinking this with?

They aren't all sûr lie, but the better ones are. The surest bet when encountering unknown Muscadets is to find one with the words, de Sevre et Main sûr lie.

Besides shellfish, I find that high-acid Muscadet has the ability to really light up white meat. Something really wonderful happens with complex dishes and simple wines of good quality like this.

In warm weather, this is a perfect aperitif, much more refreshing than something with more body, weight and less acidity.

I'd love to hear from some of the enthusiastic cooks and chefs about some of their pairings with Muscadet.

[jparrott]

I had a change to taste with Marc Ollivier, proprietor/winemaker at the Domaine de la Pepiere, this weekend. The 2005 Clos des Briords (Marc's third bottling, from a schist site) is penetrating, exploding on the palate with rich, leesy lemons and rocks. Not available around here, I don't think, but some should be available from the Wine Exchange, Chambers Street Wines, and Crush Wines and Spirits (who, by the way, appear to still be stocking MAGNUMs of the stuff. Ooh la la.)

[cjsadler]

I think we need a "Lession 2" for April. From what I've heard, 2005 was a banner year in Burgundy. Is there a red or white we can do without breaking the bank? Whoever wants to step in on the choice (it doesn't have to be Burgundy)... Jake again, Riley... ?

[jparrott]

Well I think perhaps we should go with melon's close red cousin, gamay. The 2005 cru Beaujolais are dynamite, released, and there are a lot of good producers from almost all the crus available at good shops locally.

[cjsadler]

Well I think perhaps we should go with melon's close red cousin, gamay. The 2005 cru Beaujolais are dynamite, released, and there are a lot of good producers from almost all the crus available at good shops locally.

Ok, let's do it. I like the idea of picking one specific wine so that we're all on the same page. So if there's one you have in mind...

[jparrott]

Well, that's a little bit tricky because nothing's particularly widespread. And the vintage is so good across the board. One approach would be for people to try to taste two wines from different crus (there are a total of ten crus) and try to describe the differences (or lack thereof).

The ten crus of Beaujolais are Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Saint-Amour, Chiroubles, Chénas, Fleurie, Juliénas, and Régnié. Morgon and Moulin-a-Vent are classically the most backward/tannic/biggest, with Chiroubles and Fleurie the most elegant/floral. My favorite crus are Fleurie and Morgon, though I have tasted some excellent Julienas, Chenas, and Chiroubles recently.

As for bottlings, Ed Addiss (Wine Traditions) has imported a raft of 2005 crus, including a very-firm Chenas (Pascal Aufranc), an exuberant-but-floral Chiroubles, and a snappy-happy Brouilly (which is on the enomatic at the Fair Lakes Whole Foods). The best Fleurie available locally, IMO, is the Clos de la Roilette bottling, which is probably available at Arrowine.

Retailers?

[Joe Riley]

THE guy in Beaujolais is Diochon, whose Moulin à Vent is the gold standard of cru Beaujolais (and, therefore, Gamay in general). (Imported by Kermit Lynch and, yes, I carry it every vintage).

Having said that, I have some old favorites, from Pierre Chermette (whose Moulin and Fleuries are often glorious) and Jean-Claude Lapalu (my favorite Brouilly guy) and Viornery (Brouilly and Côtes de Brouilly, very well-priced). I've also long admired the Morgon of Callot. Durdilly Beaujolais-Villages comes from one of the best-named villages I've ever heard of, Le Bois D'oignt.

There are some others I've enjoyed but I'm so tired right now I can't even think of what they are.

[zoramargolis]

I'd love to hear from some of the enthusiastic cooks and chefs about some of their pairings with Muscadet.

To be honest, I think about Muscadet as a wine to pair with fish and seafood. Period. That said, it works with many different dishes. It's clean, simple acidic qualities work well with fatty fish or anything with a butter/herb sauce. It also doesn't mind a bit of lemon at all, since it is high in acidity and has some citrus-y qualities.

*ETA I obviously don't follow my own rules! I looked back at the Dinner thread and saw that I'd served the Domaine Pepiere Muscadet with a charcoal grilled chicken. Jonathan had opened the bottle to have an aperitif, and we just kept drinking it with dinner, instead of opening a different bottle. Obviously, it wasn't a particularly memorable combo, but thinking back now, we weren't complaining when we were guzzling it down with the chicken.

[jparrott]

Well, not all Muscadet are simple, as I hope the Pepiere (and the Cuvee Eden, for those of you who have grabbed some) has shown. But I can't say I'm much of an expert on the foodways of the Pays Nantais, beyond rafts full of oysters. Not a bad place to be, though . It is quite versatile, however. When they age, top muscadet take on a nervy, grapefruit/white-pepper sensibility that brings to mind good gruner and brings the possibility of river fish to the table.

[Barbara]

While I STILL haven't been able to find the Domaine de la Pepiere, I did try two different bottles of Muscadet. The first had a distinct lemony/citrusy flavor. I think we drank it with a shrimp dish. Very pleasant. The second bottle was completely non-descript, however "inoffensive." Gotta call Joe and get some wine!

[cjsadler]

Something really wonderful happens with complex dishes and simple wines of good quality like this.

Joe's right-- this muscadet doesn't seem like much on its own, but really sings with food.

[mdt]

Joe's right-- this muscadet doesn't seem like much on its own, but really sings with food.

I think it makes a great wine to enjoy on a warm day sitting on the deck.

[mdt]

While I STILL haven't been able to find the Domaine de la Pepiere, I did try two different bottles of Muscadet. The first had a distinct lemony/citrusy flavor. I think we drank it with a shrimp dish. Very pleasant. The second bottle was completely non-descript, however "inoffensive." Gotta call Joe and get some wine!

Well, which ones were they?

[jparrott]

I had a sip of the Pepiere Eden with a bite of my hanger steak at lunch yesterday. The wine just exploded with fruit. I'm not sure I liked it more that way, but it was instructive.

[MMM]

What happened to "Lesson 2?" I picked up what looks like a nice Beaujolais from Joe. Haven't tried it yet, but am ready!

[jparrott]

What happened to "Lesson 2?" I picked up what looks like a nice Beaujolais from Joe. Haven't tried it yet, but am ready!

Clickety!

[cjsadler]

I had a sip of the Pepiere Eden with a bite of my hanger steak at lunch yesterday. The wine just exploded with fruit. I'm not sure I liked it more that way, but it was instructive.

Yeah, the Eden definitely is much more fruit forward. Fuller, a touch sweeter, and not quite as steely and acidic as the regular bottling. However, I'd probably say I like both equally-- what great buys (especially with Joe Riley's pricing).

[jparrott]

The Eden is definitely a phreak wine in the sort of classical CW about muscadet. But it's made exactly the same way as the uber-steely Clos des Briords, but from a vastly different site. Like a top white burgundy, the Eden will show some of this fruit for awhile, then turn steelier, maybe even shutting down for a few years.

[ol_ironstomach]

The Eden is definitely a phreak wine in the sort of classical CW about muscadet.

For the benefit of us novices, could you explain what "classical CW" means?

[jparrott]

CW := conventional wisdom. Although I guess that makes "classical CW" repetitively redundant.

[ol_ironstomach]

Thanks. When I read "classical CW" this is what came to mind -->

[porcupine]

While I found the basic bottling a bit, um, one dimensional for my taste, I'm sitting here now enjoying the heck out of the cuvee Eden. Still not good with the wine-geek descriptors, I'll just say that a rich mouthfeel and subtle fruitiness nicely balances the crispness and acidity of the basic bottling.

I opened this to enjoy with lunch: spaghetti topped with a mixture of shrimp, baby spinach, peas, fennel, mushroom, and onion, seasoned with parsley, lemon, salt and a pinch of crushed red pepper, all cooked gently in a liberal amount of good fruity olive oil, topped with a few shavings of Parmesan. The wine worked very, very well with this dish. Not so much with the roasted asparagus side, though.

[Barbara]

While I found the basic bottling a bit, um, one dimensional for my taste, I'm sitting here now enjoying the heck out of the cuvee Eden. Still not good with the wine-geek descriptors, I'll just say that a rich mouthfeel and subtle fruitiness nicely balances the crispness and acidity of the basic bottling.

Exactly.

[jparrott]

Try the Eden with a day of air.

[porcupine]

Try the Eden with a day of air.

That's the plan! Indeed, I will be trying it tonight with a few hours of air, in order to lube up for the HH at Bourbon.

[mdt]

While I found the basic bottling a bit, um, one dimensional for my taste, I'm sitting here now enjoying the heck out of the cuvee Eden. Still not good with the wine-geek descriptors, I'll just say that a rich mouthfeel and subtle fruitiness nicely balances the crispness and acidity of the basic bottling.

I opened this to enjoy with lunch: spaghetti topped with a mixture of shrimp, baby spinach, peas, fennel, mushroom, and onion, seasoned with parsley, lemon, salt and a pinch of crushed red pepper, all cooked gently in a liberal amount of good fruity olive oil, topped with a few shavings of Parmesan. The wine worked very, very well with this dish. Not so much with the roasted asparagus side, though.

Finally popped a bottle of the Cuvée Eden this past weekend and really enjoyed it. Didn't taste formally as it was had with dinner, but Porcupine's description is right on. I am glad that I have a case of this in my cellar. This should be mentioned in the great buys for under $15 $10/btl.

[porcupine]

The cuvee Eden also works well, but not brilliantly, with fromage de Meaux, St Agur, and Ossau Iraty.

[jparrott]

The Eden (which is actually not a "Domaine de la Pepiere" bottling, merely a "Marc Ollivier" bottling as it comes from out side the domaine-my bad) would do well with a lot of sort of Sancerre-y cheeses, light aged goat cheeses, etc. Or burrata. But I like ribolla gialla with burrata.

[Joe Riley]

The Eden (which is actually not a "Domaine de la Pepiere" bottling, merely a "Marc Ollivier" bottling as it comes from out side the domaine-my bad) would do well with a lot of sort of Sancerre-y cheeses, light aged goat cheeses, etc. Or burrata. But I like ribolla gialla with burrata.

"In a-burrata-da-vida, bay-bee, don't'cha know that I'll always be true..."

[Pat]

To study wine, buy and drink

And look at what made the list:

Pépière Muscadet sur Lie

2005 $9.99

[rweiss]

BREAKING!!!!!!!

2005 Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet was just given 90 POINTS by Josh Raynolds of Steven Tanzer's International Wine Cellar!! 90 POINTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!@!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!@!@!@!!!!!!!!!!!

You are such a points whore.......

BTW, thank you for your incredibly spot on commentary about most things in DC that rock!

For everyone else... notice the signature.... We are family.

Rich

[Wine Guy 23]

You are such a points whore.......

BTW, thank you for your incredibly spot on commentary about most things in DC that rock!

For everyone else... notice the signature.... We are family.

Rich

what do you think the HOT white of the summer will be?? no longer rose, the world needs a new trend.

[jparrott]

Rockwell thinks its Godello.

I wish it was an inexpensive Slovenian sauvignon or somesuch.

[Joe Riley]

Rockwell thinks its Godello.

I wish it was an inexpensive Slovenian sauvignon or somesuch.

For the record, you can't make Godello without "God"

(Sorry, had to be said..)

Perhaps that's the wine to drink whilst reading Samuel Beckett? "Waiting for Godello", anyone?

(Okay, I'll stop now.)

[derekmbrown]

How white of the summer: Txakolina. Hondarribi Zurri, baby. Plus, more X's on the bottle than a jar of whiskey.

[JPW]

Cherreau-Carré (Château de Chasseloir) is one of the great growers. Their Cuvée Ceps Centenaires is a paradigm of what great Muscadet can be.

Had this (2002 ?) last night with halibut over smashed fingerling potatoes and peas with a little tarragon infused creme fraiche and lemon vinaigrette last night. It rocked. Much more food friendly than either of the Pepieres with less funky minerality and more fruit. Don't get me wrong, I love funk, but I'll be drinking this with dinner and the Pepiere on the back deck as the sun goes down. Try them both and note the differences possible within the same appellation.

[jparrott]

Tasted both the 2002 Ceps Centenaires and Les Clos from Chereau-Carre yesterday. The CC was broader (due in part to its three extra years in the bottle) and blossomed nicely with air. The Clos, with 31 months (!) on the lees, was tight as a drum but showed impressive class. It needs several years in the bottle. Both are nice, and the 2002 CC is a good example of the medium-term again potential of even the most gently-priced muscadets from good producers.

[youngfood]

FYI to the muscadet trying crowd - Hook has THREE muscadets on their wine list - each for $30 or less. When I asked for a recommendation from among them, Chef Seaver came out and professed that it was his favorite grape, and thoughtfully described each to us. We went with the Les Grandes Vignes Muscadet Loire France 2005 ($28) and were pleased.

[jparrott]