Jump to content

Italian Whites


cjsadler

Recommended Posts

Was considering finding some Italian whites to pair with an Italian meal. Beyond Pinot Grigio, though, I don't know much. Not sure PG is my thing, as I've only ever had one that I thought was any good (I seem to much prefer what this grape does in Alsace), so what about all these other Italian white varietals I see? What should I be checking out (some specific recommendations to start with would be appreciated)? Or is Italy not the place to look for whites? (I've heard this said)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Italian whites....

VIlla Bucci Verdicchio Riserva 2001 is available at Cleveland Park Wines and Spirits. It is a barrel aged with extended lees contat wine that has been a consistent Tre Bicchieri winner. Its creamy and toasty with loads of minerality but not over blown.

Cocci Griffone makes wonderful lemony crisp wines from the Pecorino grape in Offida.

I am a lover of Tocai Friulano from Friuli: Doro Princic, Zamo, Zuc di Volpe, Lis Neris (oak alert), ROnco del Gnemiz are all top producers

Alto Adige has odd grapes like Kerner that are fabulous. Look for Abbazia di Rosazzo. ANy of the single vineyard wines from Cantina del Terlano are fine: Vorberg Pinot Bianco, Quarz Sauvignon Blanc and Lunaie Gewurztraminer are all damn good, especially the latter two.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Feudi di San Gregorio makes some very nice whites all from Campania. I especially like the Greco di Tufo, Fiano d'Avellino Campanaro and the Falanghina.

Other names to look for from Cmmpanie are Terradora di Paolo, Beinto Ferrara (Grecco) and Grrotte del Sole. This area makes great wines that offer really good values.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love the Terradora Falanghina.

If you can find the sparkling Asprinio they pour at 2 Amys and Komi, it's a no-brainer.

There's not much of it in DC, but there are a lot of phreaky good wines made in the Sudtirol, which is the Italian part of the Austrian Sudsteiermark. I recommend going to Otto in NYC with a big group and sampling all 20 or so they have in stock :) .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love the Terradora Falanghina.

If you can find the sparkling Asprinio they pour at 2 Amys and Komi, it's a no-brainer.

There's not much of it in DC, but there are a lot of phreaky good wines made in the Sudtirol, which is the Italian part of the Austrian Sudsteiermark. I recommend going to Otto in NYC with a big group and sampling all 20 or so they have in stock :) .

The Sudtyrol is the Alto Adige and Trentino regions. You can sample a bunch 20 (about 50/50 red/white) of them, at least, at some Italian joint in DC :) .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, yes, forgot which was the broader designation. But there is a fair amount of strange-variety stuff people don't see much of down here--goldmuskateller, veltliner, kerner (there are a couple). A good rule of thumb is, the more German-looking stuff on an Italian wine label, the more interesting it's likely to be :) .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, yes, forgot which was the broader designation. But there is a fair amount of strange-variety stuff people don't see much of down here--goldmuskateller, veltliner, kerner (there are a couple). A good rule of thumb is, the more German-looking stuff on an Italian wine label, the more interesting it's likely to be :) .

Don't forget Lagrein. Red grape, smells of blueberry, very low tannin, incredible flavors.

Kerner is a Riesling Schiava corss (Schiava is a light red that is great on its own). I have had some Goldmuscater thats nice but they are HARD to find.

Gewurtz and Sauvignon are pretty damn spectacular from the AA and Trentino. I am waiting to get some Quarz (SB) and Lunaie (SB) from Cantina di Terlano that will amaze! When young I prefer them to anything from Alsace but I have not seen any aged examples so I don't know how they do. I had a really off bottle of the 99 at 5 years old (I think it was storage or a bad bottle).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't forget Lagrein. Red grape, smells of blueberry, very low tannin, incredible flavors.
Indeed. Joe Dressner imports the Lagreins (and, more on-topic, Blaterles) of Mayr-Nusserhof, but the wines are basically only available in New York. Penetrating, complex, mineral, middleweight at best.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've recently discovered the COS Rami Grecianico from Sicily. It is available by the glass at 2 Amy's and from what I understand, it is Amy Pastan's favorite white wine at the moment. I have it in the store. Lovely stuff.

You also might want to try the Villa Sparina Gavi. It is wonderful, I've sold a boatload of it over the past six months. Everyone seems to like it a lot :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whenever I go to an Italian restaurant, I have an incredibly difficult time finding a wine that I like. See, I normally drink Riesling or whatever is the closet thing to Riesling that my sommelier can recommend. (If I want red, I will only do Pinot Noir.) I have been told that there is NO Italian wine that comes anywhere close to the sweetness and fruity-ness of a Riesling. This really sucks because I want to expand my wine horizons. Plus, when I eat Italian food, I want to compliment it with wine from the same country. But right now, I only know what I like. I have not been getting much help from my sommeliers so I am reaching out to my virtual family.

Can anyone suggest a type of Italian wine (by reigon or vinyard or maker) that would appeal to someone like me?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know that the Italians make anything that is Riesling like, but they make wonderful white wines. If you want something fruity and light, try one of the Pinot Grigios or Pinot Biancos or a Tocai from Friuli or a Soave from Veneto Other wines to try would be something like a Kerner from the Alto Adige.

Not to sound like a broken record, but go to Dino and have Dean help you find something that will fit the bill from his wonderful list. (added bonus, it is relatively inexpensive and there are a lot of choices by the glass to try.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I take it the only type of Riesling you like are the fruity sweet types, because there are winemakers who produce bone dry examples of Rieslings (including in Italy, where G.D. Vajra produces them). I am not sure how sticking with the same wine style but from different countries is going to expand your wine horizons. Not to mention such a wine would not go very well with most types of Italian food (that is why the only wines that fit your profile from Italy is Vin Santo, and they are served with dessert).

There are plenty of fruity/flowery, but dry white wines to be found from Italy, I would recommend expanding your horizons beyond the sweet fruity wines (whether white or red).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I take it the only type of Riesling you like are the fruity sweet types, because there are winemakers who produce bone dry examples of Rieslings (including in Italy, where G.D. Vajra produces them). I am not sure how sticking with the same wine style but from different countries is going to expand your wine horizons. Not to mention such a wine would not go very well with most types of Italian food (that is why the only wines that fit your profile from Italy is Vin Santo, and they are served with dessert).

There are plenty of fruity/flowery, but dry white wines to be found from Italy, I would recommend expanding your horizons beyond the sweet fruity wines (whether white or red).

Good point. I guess I could order by the glass....

But how would I know what to ask for in a restaurant? I guess I could just ask for whatever the sommalier recommends for the dish I'm ordering.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try asking for Moscato d'Asti or Brachetto. Both are lightly sweet and fizzy - not really bubbly like Champagne. Moscato is white and Brachetto is red. Usually restaurants that use these wines have them in half bottles.

PS - They're really inexpensive.

What about a Prosecco?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll second Mark's suggestions; Moscato d'Asti and Brachetto d'Acqui are both likely to satisfy your sweet tooth. A good Moscato d'Asti in particular has a bit more potential for pairing with some of the food.

Though I'll add that sweetness can be a flavor that overwhelms just about any food. Those sweeter Rieslings may be great complements to, say, spicy Thai food, but they'll likely kill just about anything Italian.

I'd look to Northern Italy's whites. Start with (if you can find one) a Gewurztraminer from Alto Adige, then maybe Pinot Grigio (or Pinot Gris) from the same region, and go from there. Get yourself accustomed to a slightly drier style first, and you may find that you enjoy both the wine and the food in Italian restaurants quite a bit more. I'll admit it takes a bit of getting used to; we're all brought up in the US with a bit of a sweet tooth.

But once we turn that corner, a whole new world of flavors awaits, and food and wine start to make a whole lot more sense together.

That said. A good, off-dry Riesling and fantastic Thai food is an amazing combination.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll second Mark's suggestions; Moscato d'Asti and Brachetto d'Acqui are both likely to satisfy your sweet tooth. A good Moscato d'Asti in particular has a bit more potential for pairing with some of the food.

Though I'll add that sweetness can be a flavor that overwhelms just about any food. Those sweeter Rieslings may be great complements to, say, spicy Thai food, but they'll likely kill just about anything Italian.

I'd look to Northern Italy's whites. Start with (if you can find one) a Gewurztraminer from Alto Adige, then maybe Pinot Grigio (or Pinot Gris) from the same region, and go from there. Get yourself accustomed to a slightly drier style first, and you may find that you enjoy both the wine and the food in Italian restaurants quite a bit more. I'll admit it takes a bit of getting used to; we're all brought up in the US with a bit of a sweet tooth.

But once we turn that corner, a whole new world of flavors awaits, and food and wine start to make a whole lot more sense together.

That said. A good, off-dry Riesling and fantastic Thai food is an amazing combination.

Some people don't like dry wines. I understand that. I happen to like all wines and don't hold it against the wine if it is sweet or not. Well made German, Alsatian, US or Ozzie riesling is the answer to most wine questions. Brachetto d'Acqui also has a great affinity for chocolate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

or expand from Pinot Noir to Pinot Nero (hehehe---same grape)

Also, try the far North East of Italy (Near Austria and Slovenia), Friuli-Venezia Giulia, especially Tocai (not actually related to Tokay), maybe Tocai di Lison or Tocai Friulano, but they are right, Italy is not so much for the sweet wines...

Or the dessert wine Picolit (I've been studying Italian Wines this month, so it made a good acedemic excercise)

Possibly Greco di Tufo DOCG, from near napels, but I haven't tasted it.

dave "i'm not italian" batista

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just for the record, Italy DOES have Riesling. I have one that I like a lot, even if it won't make you forget Germany, Alsace or Austria. Bruno Verdi 2005.

We now return to our regularly-scheduled thread.....

Not THAT is what I like to hear! I hope it will not ruin the Italian dishes that I try to eat it with. But I'll try anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I drank the Bruno Verdi recently at a restaurant in Cambridge, MA. It was good, tho it didn't blow me away.

Are there any wines available locally from DOC Moscato di Terracina in Lazio? Yummy, dry, floral, fruity, mineral muscats.

Not sure where Lazio is, but I really like Terre di Orazio Basilicata Dry Muscat from Cantina di Venosa. It's a Leonardo LoCascio Import. I got it at Total. To my taste, your descriptors above fit it perfectly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just for the record, Italy DOES have Riesling. I have one that I like a lot, even if it won't make you forget Germany, Alsace or Austria. Bruno Verdi 2005.

We now return to our regularly-scheduled thread.....

Sounds yummy! Can I get the Bruno Verdi pretty easily in Italian restaurants?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds yummy! Can I get the Bruno Verdi pretty easily in Italian restaurants?
No. The only restaurant I've seen it at is The Blue Room in Cambridge.

I wish there was an easy answer to this, but Italian whites (particularly on the fruitier end of the spectrum) are a crazy minefield. One variety/DOC that performs pretty well in this oeuvre is Fiano di Avellino. And, to the surprise of absolutely no one, there's a darn useful (and darn cheap) one on the list at 2 Amys. But I forget who the producer is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No. The only restaurant I've seen it at is The Blue Room in Cambridge.

I wish there was an easy answer to this, but Italian whites (particularly on the fruitier end of the spectrum) are a crazy minefield. One variety/DOC that performs pretty well in this oeuvre is Fiano di Avellino. And, to the surprise of absolutely no one, there's a darn useful (and darn cheap) one on the list at 2 Amys. But I forget who the producer is.

the italians would be so upset to see the Fiano di Avellino as a DOC, (DOCG),, in regards to interest of whites of italy, i like to look at the north, from guys like feluga, and jermann doing tocai, and malvasia. the south has some pretty killer ones too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One of the best Fiano's comes from Paestum, just south of Avellino. THe producer is DeConcillis. He makes two fiano: Donnaluna and Perella. The latter is a selection of the grapes and is pretty mineral and dry. The former is softer and more gentle.

Celia Romano and Cantina del Taburno also make really nice Fiano.

I wish someone would pick up Damijan and Radikon from Friuli for the DC market. Great producers who makes wines in the Gravner tradition but a little less extreme and for more reasonable prices.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My sum total experience with Radikon in the bottle of RG I bought at Baroni's in Florence. Pretty damned good with the Prosciutto di Cinta Sinese and the veggie dinner I cooked.... Artickokes fried in olive oil, sauteed greens, sauteed mushrooms and some potatoes as I recall.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Better get to the store. The new Wine Spectator has slapped a 90 score on Gini Soave Classico. This has been a go-to of mine for a while, and is on many of the Italian restaurant wine lists around town. The "magic" 90 for a wine under $20 will soon be on shelf talkers and bottles will soon be disappearing off shelves. Get it while you can...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Better get to the store. The new Wine Spectator has slapped a 90 score on Gini Soave Classico. This has been a go-to of mine for a while, and is on many of the Italian restaurant wine lists around town. The "magic" 90 for a wine under $20 will soon be on shelf talkers and bottles will soon be disappearing off shelves. Get it while you can...

While I love the Gini, there are also great Soave to be had from Inama, Suavia, Pra and more. Soave is one area with a lot of great small producers just now gaining attention.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...