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DanielK

Copenhagen, Denmark

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DanielK   

I travel once a month to Copenhagen, Denmark for work. There are two 1-star Michelin restaurants there (names escape me) which are ridiculously expensive. Copenhagen is one of the most expensive cities in Europe, so a 1-star here is the price of a 2- or 3- star elsewhere in Europe. Can't slip that one through on the expense report.

Anyhow, I've found a decent Argentinan steakhouse there (Fuego), but only mediocre Italian, Spanish, Thai, and pretty awful Chinese.

Any chance someone has been there that can steer me otherwise? (eGullet was no help, FWIW.)

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I travel once a month to Copenhagen, Denmark for work. There are two 1-star Michelin restaurants there (names escape me) which are ridiculously expensive. Copenhagen is one of the most expensive cities in Europe, so a 1-star here is the price of a 2- or 3- star elsewhere in Europe. Can't slip that one through on the expense report.

Anyhow, I've found a decent Argentinan steakhouse there (Fuego), but only mediocre Italian, Spanish, Thai, and pretty awful Chinese.

Any chance someone has been there that can steer me otherwise? (eGullet was no help, FWIW.)

David Rosengarten speaks highly of Noma whose chef won the 2005 Icelandic Food and Fun Competition (Rosengarten was a judge), but this establishment probably fits into the one star category and hence will be expensive. Coincidentally, I have two colleagues traveling to Copenhagen today, and if they have anything to recommend when they return, I'll post again. Edited by FunnyJohn

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DanielK   
Does anyone know if the Vin et Ole Got is still there?

I didn't see a listing for it, but I just got back, so I wasn't looking for it either!

I did find two places this trip, once of which I would definitely return to. Zeleste is in the downtown area, a block from the Nyhavn restaurant area. Very very good food, decent service, and reasonably priced (for Copenhagen). Three of us ate a 3-course meal and a bottle of wine for about US$225, which is moderately priced for Copenhagen.

The night before I ate at SALT in the Admiral Hotel. The food was far more inventive, and the service was miles better, but I think I actually liked the food at Zeleste better. I certainly liked the prices better - the bill was about the same for only 2 courses and less booze.

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DonRocks   
Any chance someone has been there that can steer me otherwise? (eGullet was no help, FWIW.)

Brownie at Christiania? :P

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DanielK   
Brownie at Christiania?  :lol:

You know, I started to Google that, thinking it was an odd name for a restaurant in Denmark. :P

Problem is, Rocks, if I go there, then I REALLY need dinner...

:D:D:D

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I didn't see a listing for it, but I just got back, so I wasn't looking for it either!

I probably spelled it wrong, after all it's been over 30 years since I was there. It meant Wine and Good Beer and was a really funky beer hall along one of the walking streets off the main walking street. I was a college student in those days and it was what I could afford (other than the stands selling the sausages) Lots of long tables, an ompa band, and lots of beer with great sausages. Not a fancy place, but a fondly remembered one from my college years.

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erikv   

Daneil K, I have some friends living in Denmark. One is the manager at the Hard Rock (don't ask). When I was there last, he managed to find a pretty decent ittalian place, I can try and get in touch. Or if you swing by the Hard Rock and see a tall guy with long dark hair in his late 30s/early 40s who speaks english with a Canadian accent, tell him you know Erik from team Finland, and say that I told you he would be able to give suggestions. oh, his name is Dan by the way. Hope that helps

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I travel once a month to Copenhagen, Denmark for work. There are two 1-star Michelin restaurants there (names escape me) which are ridiculously expensive. Copenhagen is one of the most expensive cities in Europe, so a 1-star here is the price of a 2- or 3- star elsewhere in Europe. Can't slip that one through on the expense report.

Anyhow, I've found a decent Argentinan steakhouse there (Fuego), but only mediocre Italian, Spanish, Thai, and pretty awful Chinese.

Any chance someone has been there that can steer me otherwise? (eGullet was no help, FWIW.)

The Michelin star restaurants are

Ensemble, Kommandanten, Kong Hans Kælder, Kokkerie, Era Ora, Godt, Noma, The Paul, Formel B, Restaurant Rasmus Oubæk. Kong Hans has the best setting in the basement of a 15th century vineyard building.

Nice but still expensive alternatives are:

Restaurationen

Pierre Andre

TyvenKokkenHansKoneOgHendesElsker (The cook, the wife, the butcher, thief...)

Saisons in Hellerup

Egoisten

Le Sommelier

Gastronomique

Cheaper, lighter:

Restaurant Els

Peder Oxe's Restaurant/Vinkælder Wine Bar

Nyhavns Færgekro

I once heard of a woman named Mette who allegedly held 12-14 person dinners in her apartment 3 nights a week. Home made saussages. There are some really cheap and good vegetarian food in Christiania.

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goodeats   

Any updates? A friend is going over for Thanksgiving and was asking for recs. Or is the up-list still pretty solid? Thank you!!

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Trine has the goods on upper tier dining up there. verygoodfood.dk

TyvenKokkenHansKoneOgHendesElsker became Nouveau and has since closed, as has Geranium due to fewer dispensable currencies in an already expensive region, though the quality and momentum of reinvented Nordic cuisine does not appear to have suffered much.

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MBK   

Anything more recent on food in Copenhagen? We have a res at Noma, but that's the only definite plan. We also have an apartment with a kitchen, so any recs for markets, shops, etc. would be great. Thanks!

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DonRocks   

Anything more recent on food in Copenhagen? We have a res at Noma, but that's the only definite plan. We also have an apartment with a kitchen, so any recs for markets, shops, etc. would be great. Thanks!

No, but you're killing me with memories. I spent the night of my 39th birthday at Tivoli Gardens.

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edenman   

Coffee:

Coffee Collective was the best espresso I had in town.  Nothing else really stood out.

Food:

Manfeds & Vin: Great little wine bar and restaurant.  We had a fantastic lunch.  Close to Coffee Collective and the Mikkeller bar.

Kí¸dbyens Fiskebar: We didn't try any entrees but the apps were fantastic.  Razor clams, oysters, shrimp, all lovely.

Noma: At this point, it needs no introduction.  Ridiculously difficult to get a reservation (we scheduled our entire trip only after I managed to get a 2-top for lunch).  Unfortunately, it ended up being a little disappointing.  Maybe our expectation were too high, or maybe the style of food just wasn't our style (the meal was very veg-heavy).  Several dishes were mind-blowing but there were too many misses for something that is supposedly the #1 restaurant in the world.  We got to chat with René after the meal, though, and that was a treat.  I'd still recommend going, just temper your expecations (and go eat in Sweden afterwards).

Beer:

Mikkeller: Seriously Great.

Fermentoren: Another good option for beer: 15-ish taps.  Near Fiskebar.

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Adam23   

Did a quick trip to Copenhagen.

Drinking:

- Mikkeller - I think they had 50 or so beers on tap.  Some quite excellent, others quite nasty.  We had them pour us flights of various styles of beer.  Would go back to explore more.  Don't let them give you a flight themed on fruit - some truly gross beers made of various Danish berries.

- Ved Stranden 10 - Excellent excellent wine bar.  We had a nice large plate of cheese and meats and killed two bottles with our friends.  One was a very spicy wonderful Syrah from Slovakia and the other was a very rare red blend from Austria.  Excellent wine bar.  Frequented by every chef in town. Quite reasonable.

Dining:

- Design Museum Cafe - Very simple lunch of open faced Danish sandwiches - one with salmon, one with fish cakes.  Quite good.

- Relae - Former Noma head chef.  Excellent and quite reasonable (I think the food itself was $75 or so per person for a 7 course dinner).  Some hits, some misses but overall quite good.  Of note a smoked trout topped with crispy chicken skin crumbs and a very nice cream foam.   Truly exceptional dish.  I would eat 10 of them.

- Noma - No misses.  Tons of crazy good oddball wines.  Lots of oddball food.  Ate ants.  Ate foraged moss.  Ate year old potatoes.  Wonderful service.  Gorgeous facility.  Lots of truly exceptional dishes (smoked quail egg and an amazing dessert of effectively mashed potatoes and mashed plums were standouts).   In the scheme of restaurants at this level - quite reasonable.  The staff was particularly great.  We spent over an hour with Dan Giusti reminiscing about DC and having a tour of the facility.  All staff was exceptionally friendly.  Sadly Rene was in NY accepting an award from the WSJ, so we will have to chat with him in Japan.

Overall, really enjoyed Copenhagen.  Great food, and they get the bike lanes correct unless the mess that is DC.

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DonRocks   

- Noma - No misses.  Tons of crazy good oddball wines.  Lots of oddball food.  Ate ants.  Ate foraged moss.  Ate year old potatoes.  Wonderful service.  Gorgeous facility.  Lots of truly exceptional dishes (smoked quail egg and an amazing dessert of effectively mashed potatoes and mashed plums were standouts).   In the scheme of restaurants at this level - quite reasonable.  The staff was particularly great.  We spent over an hour with Dan Giusti reminiscing about DC and having a tour of the facility.  All staff was exceptionally friendly.  Sadly Rene was in NY accepting an award from the WSJ, so we will have to chat with him in Japan.

Ants?!

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Adam23   

Ants?!

Yes.  Two dishes featured ants.  One was a Beef tartare with ants and the other was a smoked baby cucumber that was coated in ants and then you dipped it into scallop "butter".  Both were quite delicious.  The ants gave some good crunch and a hit of acidity.

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DonRocks   

Yes.  Two dishes featured ants.  One was a Beef tartare with ants and the other was a smoked baby cucumber that was coated in ants and then you dipped it into scallop "butter".  Both were quite delicious.  The ants gave some good crunch and a hit of acidity.

Making these dishes must be aardvark.

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Making these dishes must be aardvark.

Yes. Ants. And they really do look like ants. They are crunchy. Noma far exceeded expectations. The wine was great -including some really funky Tschida, Partida Creus and a lovely La Closerie we also ordered a juice pairing for the table to share, really all I can say about it was that it was interesting. When they heard we were from DC, they arranged to have Daniel Giusti take us on a kitchen and he was incredibly gracious in addition to interesting. We plied him for insight into what our meal in Japan will be like, but seems they are very much still in the planning phase.

Relae was an incredible meal as well, with some pretty epic courses that we paired with champagne - La Closerie Les Beguines, Franciose Bedel and something called Sol (can't remember the other details). Other fun moment of the night was that there were three huge white truffles sitting on the bar next to the open kitchen. When I inquired if we were getting some of that goodness, I was informed that they came over a special addition to the menu that needed to be special ordered. Our feelings were a little hurt that they didn't offer us the addition, and we ordered one for the table to share. Glad we did - it came generously shaved over a risotto of sunflower seeds.

Photos from Noma here   Relae here 

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I'm very jealous of the Noma reports!  We were here in October but with toddler in tow, extended tasting menus were not in the cards.

Two notable meals to report, however -- first, the open sandwiches at Aamann were filling, made from fresh, high-quality ingredients, and reasonably priced by Copenhagen standards (and given the favorable exchange rate of late).  I believe they also have an outpost in Lower Manhattan.  Second, Danes are serious about their hot dogs!  We enjoyed the ones at the Andersen Bakery right next to Tivoli Gardens, on house-made bread with remoulade and all kinds of toppings.

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Joe H   

Interesting to read "favorable exchange rates of late."  It's 1.22 today and has been as high as 1.59.  In 1998 or so it was .87.  Yes, that's a bit more than half of the high.  The Swiss franc is basically on par with the dollar today, one to one.  In 1984 it was 2.83 to the dollar-almost three to one.  (I've represented European companies for more than 30 years and the exchange rate, over time, has really made a difference.)

I still think of 1.22 as high especially since the release was 1.16.

In 1985 the pound was 1.03 to the dollar.  I still occasionally wear a Burberry's trench coat that I bought in London then.  Other than price I don't think they've changed in thirty years.

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I'm considering a trip to Copenhagen next summer. What's the best part of town to stay in? How many days should I allow to really get a sense of the place? What are some good food options (OTHER THAN Noma). I'm a bit of a design geek and am attracted to Danish/northern European design*, so any interesting places to go to see such? Any recommendations greatly appreciated. Thanks.

*please hold the IKEA jokes, I've heard them already

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