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New Orleans, LA


FunnyJohn

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I'll add only the following to CG's review, mostly about booze:

Great Bloody Mary and Ginger Cucumber something something cocktails at Molly's. And a smoking hot bartender (if you are into tattoos). Crawfish and grilled oysters were at the French Market Cafe and were great, though I have no comparison for crawfish. When we were unsure of whether we were peeling the crawfish correctly, our waitress had no qualms about grabbing one and showing us.

I didn't retain enough detail on my tasting menu at August to do a decent review, but it was all very good, especially the lamb 3 ways which was the final savory course. A braised shoulder had just the right amount of gaminess, the sous-vide loin was a few degrees past carpaccio (a compliment in my book), and the third bit was fried in a phyllo type dough, all served together with a rich brown sauce with mushrooms. One nice thing about their tasting menu is that you can get the courses a la carte and mix and match into the menu if you want to. We subbed the dessert from the veggie 5 course menu instead of whatever was supposed to come with mine. Also my lack of a decent review of it doesn't much matter, because it looks like they change it all the time. Oh and given the heat, LOL@me for listening to chowhounders and yelpers who claim you should really wear a jacket. There was one guy in a suit and that's the only other coat I saw. I don't have an account at either but maybe I should so that I can correct this before the next victim falls for it. That sucked.

I'll repeat the nod to Tyler @ Cochon; some of the best service I have ever had. Oh and the Catdaddy moonshine (half shots, comped) is not what you think it is, unless you already know what it is. If you see it, try it. It's dangerous. Also the gin and cucumber lemonade cocktail was great.

I had oysters at acme, and they were fine, but the least of the oysters I had in the city. And unfortunately I was one of the last to get oysters in NO (at least the right kind of oysters) for quite some time, so I got them everywhere I could.

Last thing, if you are going, I will pm you the contact info for a great cabbie. Unfortunately he took us back to the airport, so the amazing supply of knowledge he had for the food and music scenes was wasted on us (for now). But you could have him pick you up.

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I must give some mad props to Kim at Domenica (Roosevelt Hotel), for preparing the most wonderful Sazerac.

Kim is awesome. Not much more to say.

And Domenica is really rather good. Cured meats, a few pastas, a few pizzas, etc. Everything is slightly too rich and could use something to balance, but it's still a nice, airy stopover. Wine list is all-Italian and isn't bad--more of a testament to the poor state of Italian wine wholesaling in New Orleans than anything else.

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Kim is awesome. Not much more to say.

And Domenica is really rather good. Cured meats, a few pastas, a few pizzas, etc. Everything is slightly too rich and could use something to balance, but it's still a nice, airy stopover. Wine list is all-Italian and isn't bad--more of a testament to the poor state of Italian wine wholesaling in New Orleans than anything else.

The friend that took me there and I took advantage of the half-price pizzas - we really enjoyed the lamb sausage one that we had chosen completely at random. I was well enough pleased to want to go back for a full meal next time around.

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I feel sorry for the saucier at Adolfo's, the Creole-Italian mainstay atop the Apple Barrel on Frenchmen Street. The more-is-more saucing approach means a lot of the buttery, perfect-textured sauces stay on the plate at the end. But they are perfect foils to the precisely-prepared fish (and usually carry bonus protein in the form of sweet crabmeat or shrimp). Excellent apps too. Drink Peroni--the wines aren't considerable at all. Cash only, but mains are almost all under $20.

Everybody I knew who lived below Canal Street kept going on about this place. Now I know why. Only in New Orleans.

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Hmm, Delmonico says "casual, men no sleeveless shirts please"

http://www.emerils.com/restaurant/3/Emerils-Delmonico/

I guess standards have dropped. I see from the online menu that they've added a bunch of wine bar-y stuff. Gotta do what you gotta do to survive.

Plenty of other restaurants in NOLA that I hold higher than Emerils, NOLA, and Delmonico. Each of them has small, but welcoming bars if you want to go for a drink and a snack and move on. Emerils, in particular, always has a few interesting things available by the glass, and then you're only a few blocks from Cochon, A Mano, Tommy's, Meson 923, La Boca, RioMar, Rambla, and Cuvee.

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I guess standards have dropped. I see from the online menu that they've added a bunch of wine bar-y stuff. Gotta do what you gotta do to survive.

Plenty of other restaurants in NOLA that I hold higher than Emerils, NOLA, and Delmonico. Each of them has small, but welcoming bars if you want to go for a drink and a snack and move on. Emerils, in particular, always has a few interesting things available by the glass, and then you're only a few blocks from Cochon, A Mano, Tommy's, Meson 923, La Boca, RioMar, Rambla, and Cuvee.

Cool, thanks for the recs. I'm not particularly fired up for any of them either, but one of my traveling companions wants to hit one. Definitely going back to Bouchon too, and probably have one other nice-ish meal in us for the trip.

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Cool, thanks for the recs. I'm not particularly fired up for any of them either, but one of my traveling companions wants to hit one. Definitely going back to Bouchon too, and probably have one other nice-ish meal in us for the trip.

Another option is dessert at the bar at Emeril's. They usually have some interesting sweet wines, including some options sweet enough to stand up to the signature, and delicious, Banana Cream Pie. You could also do that at lunchtime, then hit the WWII Museum or the Ogden.

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Headed back to NO. If you could go to one Emeril restaurant, which would it be?

If you want to hit one of the celebrity chef restaurants, think about lunch at John Besh August...when we hit it up earlier this summer they were doing a $20 RW style 3-course menu, but very good, included amuse etc, so turned into more of a 5 course lunch. Just beware of the drink prices.

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If you want to hit one of the celebrity chef restaurants, think about lunch at John Besh August...when we hit it up earlier this summer they were doing a $20 RW style 3-course menu, but very good, included amuse etc, so turned into more of a 5 course lunch. Just beware of the drink prices.

I hit August on my last (first, only?) trip in June, details above in Choirgirl's post. One of my companions has Emeril on his brain for one of our dinners so that can't be helped.

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I hit August on my last (first, only?) trip in June, details above in Choirgirl's post. One of my companions has Emeril on his brain for one of our dinners so that can't be helped.

While it was about 8 years ago since I last went to Emirl's, I must admit that the tasting menu I had was one of the most interesting I have ever had.

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I hit August on my last (first, only?) trip in June, details above in Choirgirl's post. One of my companions has Emeril on his brain for one of our dinners so that can't be helped.

Regardless of what the public image of Emeril might be. Yes he's cheesy. Yes he's all over TV. But I gotta say that the level of service at the original Emeril's was excellent, even at lunch. And I was throughly surprised at how much I liked what I had - a fried green tomato BLT with shrimp aioli; they were big chunks of shrimp. Not sure if you've been to one of his places before or not, but I get the sense the places he owns are better than what might be implied by his level of fame.

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not really a propos of any of Emeril's restaurants, but during my six years there I did dine in close proximity to him once - at Le Crepe Nanou on a random Tuesday night. So the big question: what does he order when he's at someone else's restaurant? Big ole plate of frites.

I haven't lived there in almost ten years now, but I can safely say that a Thanksgiving-weekend dinner at Delmonico (after Emeril had bought it, but before it became "Emeril's Delmonico" or whatever they're calling it now) was easily one of my top five meals there, and hands down the best service I ever encountered in New Orleans.

I returned to NOLA time and again, the food was creative, good, and reliable. Brought lots of out-of-towners there.

The flagship joint was a place to experience, but my visits there were always marred by an overly-noisy atmosphere and overly rude/inattentive service. But wow, the desserts.

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The one proper cocktail bar in New Orleans is Cure, 4905 Freret St, at the corner of Freret and Upperline near Tulane. The 15 bus runs out there (last one back is around 9pm), and cabs aren't that expensive (504-522-9771; you have to give them a numerical address). Excellent menu and off-menu drinks, pretty good snacks. Gets loud Friday and Saturday prime times, as you might imagine.

Closer to the middle of town, there are excellent culinary-ish cocktail programs at Iris and Domenica. For more classic-style cocktailing, I recommend Arnaud's French 75 Bar (when Chris Hannah is working--looked for the shaven-head fellow with the "Hannah" nametag), Tujague's when Paul G is working (he has one of my favorite "cocktail menus" anywhere--all classics, no descriptions. So very NOLA. I had a very non-ironic and delicious Blinker there in July.), and Napoleon House (for Sazeracs and Pimm's Cups).

For straight booze and great music, nowhere's better pretty much anywhere than d.b.a. on Frenchmen Street. Don't ask them to make a cocktail, though.

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I have had excellent cocktails at the bar at Herbsaint. Plus, the food is really good.

I'll gladly agree with that. And I recall excellent implementations of the various Dolin vermouths the last time I had a few cocktails there.

And of course, I left out the man, the myth, the legend, Chris McMillian at the Renaissance Pere Marquette's lobby bar. Call ahead to see if he's working, and order a mint julep. Sip it and dream.

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the man, the myth, the legend, Chris McMillian at the Renaissance Pere Marquette's lobby bar

After a visit to the Bar Uncommon, I am not sure it is possible to oversell the awesomeness of Chris McMillian. After a long day of eating and drinking, we stopped off for a nightcap hoping that the sage was working, and we found the bar hopelessly empty, but that was only because he was off to the side sneaking a sandwich - I felt horribly guilty interrupting his dinner. My wife asked for a cocktail made with gin, and while he never gave us the name of what he mixed, it was a wonderful concoction of gin and absinthe. I decided to go with a classic and gave his mint julep a try, a drink that is defiled by most bartenders is brought back to its original glory when mint, sugar, crushed ice, and bourbon are weaved together by a master. While enjoying our drinks a group on a bar tour was brought in by a local bar owner/bartendrix to enjoy a round of mint juleps - he and his lovely wife made 14 of them in short order, but each with the same care that he showed in making mine, and then he made a 15th while reciting an poetic tribute to the drink written by J. Soule Smith (as an aside, the poet once wrote for the Louisville Times under the penname "Falcon"), a greater end to an evening could never be imagined.

A day before, we had our first meal in New Orleans at Cochon, and unlike others, I came away unimpressed. The highlight of the meal were the trio of fried boudin that were made even better with a touch of grainy mustard, a wonderfully flavored ball of rice and pork fried with a perfectly crisp shell and soft interior. In contrast to the assertive ball-o-pork, the deviled crab with butter crackers was an all around disappointment, the crab lacked was practically flavorless with no sign of deviling and the crackers were soft to the point of gummy. I know that Cochon is the temple of the pig, but the description of the three porcine entrees left me uninspired so I went with the rabbit & dumplings; when I think back on this dish it makes me remember the story that Thomas Keller tells about when he had to slaughter and butcher rabbits and how this was the pivotal event in making him understand how he had to respect his ingredients - I wish that whoever made this dish knew this story, because it was dreadfully boring. The meat had no distinctive tastes, it could have just as easily been a piece of chicken, the gravy had a touch of spice, but overall tasted no better than the Sysco derived example I had two days later on my Po' Boy at Domilise, and the dumplings appeared to be made with the same crackers that came with the crab. My wife's pork chop was a mixed bag, the pork was delicious, but I cannot help but to find even the best grilled pork chop to lose its appeal after the second or third bite, this was no different. The mashed potatoes were a mess, this was a failed attempt to replicate home-style chunky mashed potatoes, mixing unmashed cubes of potatoes into a wonderful puree, the texture of the cubes was of slightly undercooked potatoes. The plate was saved by some wonderfully flavorful slow cooked green beans.

The next day was my birthday, and I decided that for lunch I wanted something classically New Orleans, so I made reservations at Galatoire's. The entire feel of the restaurant is of sneaking into a private club where the staff and customers all know one another, and those that don't are made to feel as if they do. I started with an oysters en brochette, which amounted to a kabob of oysters and bacon that had been perfectly fried, and served with a butter sauce. Like everything else we would have that day it was simple and prepared to perfection. Another example of this simple perfection was my wife's neon colored shrimp remoulade which made me forget all other versions of this dish that I have ever tried. Surprisingly, the entrées were a step above the delicious appetizers, with the shrimp etouffee brimming with perfectly cooked shrimp in a well balanced sauce. The meat used in my wife's crabmeat Sardou definitely did not come from the same source that Cochon used, because it was filled with sweet crab flavor, and it sat atop three freshly cooked large artichoke hearts and creamed spinach. The weakest point of the meal were the desserts, the pecan pie was quite good, but the chocolate in the pie was a step too far, and the banana bread pudding was good, but again, too much of a good thing, where the sparse amount of bananas outshone the not quite moist enough bread. I have a feeling that if you added the age of the waiters together, it would be older than New Orleans itself, and the experience shows in the level of service that we were provided from the second we stepped through the door.

For dinner we went to August, and we decided to give the market menu a try. It shocked my wife that I would pick the vegetarian menu, but after a big lunch the last thing I wanted was large hunks of protein. It was the right choice. Our dishes and wine pairing looked far more appealing than the hunks of meat I saw being delivered to the table next to ours, and while we were full when we were done, I did not come away feeling stuffed.

For our second lunch we grabbed a cab over to Domilise's to try their Po' Boys. We arrived at 11:40 and the line was to the door, so we took a number and planted ourselves at the first table available. I ordered a the roast beef and the shrimp po' boys fully loaded. While waiting for the sandwiches to be made I noticed that they had their Sysco order sitting right before me, on the list were mostly innocuous supplies like paper towels and cleaning agents, but I did notice a "gravy mix" included - it momentarily made me regret the roast beef order. The roast beef was fine, I would like to have had the meat a little less cooked, but it was still far more edible than Italian Beef sandwich I had at Al's in Chicago, as for the gravy, it added a bit of moisture to the otherwise dry meat. The star was the shrimp po' boy, with perfectly cooked shrimp dressed with a tomato based hot sauce, mayonnaise, pickles, and lettuce. I would definitely make the trip again, but next time I will skip the beef and give the sausage a try. By the time we left the line was out the door and around the restaurant, the sandwiches were good, but they were not that good.

Our final dinner for the trip was an Argentinean steakhouse called La Boca (this should not be confused with the Brazilian steakhouse concept of all you can eat meat and salad bar). The restaurant was an unassuming store front on one of the forgotten streaks of the Warehouse District, with a warm a gracious host greeting everyone with a handshake and warm welcomes. We took our seats a little closer to the door than we would have liked, but due to the small size of the room all of the tables were a little closer to the door than I would have liked. I started with the Provoleta, a small lodge pan filled with melted cheese that had a beautiful brown surface. The cheese smelled like carnival pizza (think cheese and oregano), but unlike the always disappointing carny concoction this delivered on the flavor and texture as well as the anticipation. My wife's heart of palm salad made me wish that I liked salad, the as the combination of heart of palm, romaine hearts, avocado, and dressing was perfectly balanced. My wife ordered a flap steak special that they were offering, it was a large piece of meat that had been rubbed with lime zest and garlic, then roasted to a perfect medium doneness (because of the thickness of the piece, they only offer this medium or medium well, but her medium was still beautifully pink on the inside), not a morsel of steak was left on her plate. My steak was what they call the Entrna Fina which was a wonderfully cooked skirt steak, but I felt that it needed something more to bring out the flavor, maybe a sauce or even a compound butter. If you are looking for a great steak in New Orleans, you should consider La Boca, however, unless you like Argentinean Malbec, I recommend stopping at W.I.N.O. and picking up something you would like. I wish we had more steakhouses in the area working with alternative cuts of beef and going beyond the big 3 primals, or even hanger steak - yes I know there is someone in Arlington doing this, but for reasons I wish to not go into, I am far more likely to go to La Boca again before I return to that establishment.
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Spent a few days in new Orleans earlier this week. We had a very nice brunch at Sylvain, 625 Chartres St., near the Marriott and some very cool art galleries. I had a fried egg over grits with a shredded pork cake type of thing. Very rich, but delicious. The shaved brussel sprouts salad is a new favorite that i will try to replicate at home - a bit tart, with apple and cheese (if I recall correctly). I found this place quite nice and not at all touristy restaurant despite the address. Sit in the courtyard if weather permits.

Unfortunately you all cannot share what was our best meal - I was visiting shrimpers in Dulac, La who cooked shrimp just off the boat including a simple but awesome "shrimp and gravy" and also fresh boudin sausage. So good. I love my job at times.

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I'm attending a convention at the convention center and staying at one of the nearby hotels. Me, husband, toddler. Any recommendations for lunch or dinner? We had lunch yesterday at Mulate's which had the right blend of casual atmosphere and good food; we could do a bit more upscale for early dinner, but not super-formal.

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I'm attending a convention at the convention center and staying at one of the nearby hotels. Me, husband, toddler. Any recommendations for lunch or dinner? We had lunch yesterday at Mulate's which had the right blend of casual atmosphere and good food; we could do a bit more upscale for early dinner, but not super-formal.

Dunno if you're looking for breakfast, but if you're on the eastern side of the Convention Center, you're not far from Mother's - black ham biscuit. mmm...

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Just spent the weekend in New Orleans. Had a great dinner at Cochon (though stick with wine, beer or straight booze, as the bartenders don't really know what they're doing). So much so that we went back to Butcher for lunch on our last day.

Also, really liked Dominique's, out on Magazine Street. And the cocktails and bartender there really rock.

Lunch at John Besh's August is a steal at $20 prix fixe, and excellent...click.

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Dunno if you're looking for breakfast, but if you're on the eastern side of the Convention Center, you're not far from Mother's - black ham biscuit. mmm...

Mother's is absolutely superb for a Ferdi Special or a roast beef sandwich with debris; among the best breakfast I have ever had anywhere.

Also, don't discount K-Paul's for certain dishes: the fresh cracked coconut cake is the single best slice of cake my wife or I have ever had in our life. Anywhere. I'm serious. (This is the recipe-http://www.hungrybrowser.com/phaedrus/m1122M04.htm ((scroll down about half way)) I've made it myself and it is worth the time consuming effort. At K-Paul's it is served on top of a puddle of Chantilly Whipped Cream (whipped cream with Courvoiser and Grand Marnier). YOU MUST ORDER THIS IN ADVANCE. It is a real rarity when it shows up on the menu, usually only because someone else has asked for it. I'm not exaggerating about how good this is-that's why I've linked the recipe. But again, you MUST order this when you make your reservation. Also, K-Paul's has the best bbq'd shrimp in NOLA. This is the recipe for them: http://www.chefpaul.com/site.php?pageID=300&view=215

I must note that K-Paul's is not the same experience that it was when it opened in 1980; it was enlarged in the mid '90's and now seats something like 200 people. Then it was probably 50 or 60, every table was a communal table and they only took cash. Today, on a bad night some of the food will taste like an upscale and very expensive Opelousas truck stop. But on most nights there are still some dishes that are as good as you will find anywhere. BBQ shrimp and coconut cake are two of them.

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When in New Orleans, get thee to Green Goddess.

When I went in November, I loved it so much that I wanted to go back the next day, but they were closing for some renovations. It's very tiny, but they're doing amazing things in there. Their menu changes frequently, so the delicious absinthe-roasted oyster and fennel chowder isn't available right now. (It was intense.) Still an option is their bacon sundae, which is the best blend of salty and sweet I've ever experienced.

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For the suggestions, I owe some reviews!

We did indeed make it to the Cochon Butcher, and had some very nice ribs, a hearty mac n cheese and a couple of fresh and tasty lunch sandwiches. It's a very pleasant room--light and airy with scrubbed pine boards. The dessert menu looked tempting but alas, dining with a toddler often necessiates a quick exit.

I mentioned Mulate's, which bills itself as "the original Cajun." It's a big barn of a place with checkered tablecloths and a dance floor at one end, and it seemed to serve a convention crowd around lunchtime. We tried the muffaletta and a couple of po' boys on our return visits. Since I've never had a muffaletta before, I can't speak to its authenticity, but I thought it was a tasty sandwich. For the discerning younger set, we recommend the catfish nuggets from the kids menu. I also tried the alligator po' boy; a new-to-me meat which I found chewier and a little fattier than the chicken it is often compared to, and entirely pleasant to eat in a sandwich.

An evening in the French quarter began with a ride on the Algiers ferry, and continued with a walk through the quarter browsing menus. We settled on Pierre Maspero's. After this meal I began to realize that in fact all the food in New Orleans is good. I had a deliciously rich pasta with a crawfish cream sauce, my husband had the etouffe, and the small fry devoured half my pasta plus a serving of "pistolettes"--small french bread rolls with a creamy seafood stuffing.

We followed up with beignets and cafe au lait at Cafe du Monde, and then a stroll down Bourbon Street with hurricanes from Pat O'Briens.* I really needed to have done this 15 years ago, though--the whole experience is a little surreal with a sleeping baby strapped to your back.

The next night I was dining with a business colleague, who turned up her nose at Mothers ("I want to go somewhere that I can sit down and be waited on"--fair enough). We ended up at a joint called House of Blues in the French Quarter, which was definitely the least good meal I had in the town.

The highlight of the whole trip, however, was an excursion uptown to the Saltwater Grill. We were picked up by my husband's great-uncle-once-removed-by-something or other, whose son runs the place. It was packed wall to wall and I think there were maybe six patrons under sixty. A ten piece jazz band was rollicking through the standards (and Uncle B. sat in for a few)--this was a real neighborhood place and I'm so happy I got to hang out with these folks. The oyster soup was a standout, as was the lobster and spinach boat. A catfish platter hit the spot, and although the bananas foster were not being flambe-ed tableside on that particular night, they were still a charming and authentic way to end the meal.

*The tacky tourist pilgrimage was entirely warranted by the fact that the child's paternal grandfather was in fact born in a room over this bar.

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Thanks for the reviews! We're flying to N.O. for a day or two before heading over to Lafayette (Cajun Country) to visit family. I hate to say that I haven't been to N.O. in a number of years, we usually drive straight to Lafayette, but the long drive is getting pretty old. We've been to the Mulates in Breaux Bridge and it's a lively place with good food & music, but is sort of for tourists. On a previous trip we enjoyed the Acme Oyster House in Covington and I hope it's still as good as it was. We'll probably be staying in the French Quarter and I'm curious to try a Donald Link restaurant especially after trying a few of his recipes from "Real Cajun". I don't think we'll have much time but we're looking forward to it, we just have to decide on which restaurants to go to. The problem is there's so much to choose from.

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I'll recommend two higher end places. First, Bayona. Just outstanding. Transcendent, even. Susan Spicer is a genius.

For classic creole, head to Commander's Palace in the Garden District. Brunch is a classic, as is (was?) the martini lunch - ask for the garden room. Dinner is fantastic too. Most people don't recommend Commander's because, well, I don't really know why, too obvious, maybe? Too far out of the way?

I've had some of the best meals of my life at these two restaurants. *sigh* This Newcomb grad misses the Nola food culture.

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I'll recommend two higher end places. First, Bayona. Just outstanding. Transcendent, even. Susan Spicer is a genius.

I lived down there for a while. While I had a few individual meals (individual dishes, even) that I'd rank above Bayona, it's remained my favorite for consistently excellent food (whereas some of the others were hit-or-miss). I've never gone wrong there - it was always my go-to place to bring visitors who know food.

Ahhh, Bayona. Damn, I'm badly in need of a visit!

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Cochon is my favorite restaurant in the country. Do it! With a grand total of 6 nights spent in New Orleans, I have eaten there (or Butcher) 5 times, including taking a sandwich for the plane.

I'd be careful doing that - the last time I unwrapped a Butcher muffalatta on a plane the very large man next to me looked legitimately angry and said "you gotta lotta balls to be taking out just one sandwich and not be sharing..."

(I shared)

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I'd be careful doing that - the last time I unwrapped a Butcher muffalatta on a plane the very large man next to me looked legitimately angry and said "you gotta lotta balls to be taking out just one sandwich and not be sharing..."

(I shared)

ha! That's pretty funny (and exactly what sandwich I had of course). And it's plenty to share. But our flight was delayed so the sandwiches didn't make it onto the plane, we ate them at the airport.

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cochon cochon cochon cochon cochon ...cochon cochon...

I was utterly unimpressed by my meal at Cochon, two out of the four dishes were void of character, and the other two did were not good enough to make up for it. Could this have been a bad night? Certainly, but I am not sure that on the best day they could have saved flavorless crab or a one note rabbit and dumplings dish. I also expected more porcine related dishes, when we were there they had four, two apps, one entree, and one special, not really pig-centric.

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I was utterly unimpressed by my meal at Cochon, two out of the four dishes were void of character, and the other two did were not good enough to make up for it. Could this have been a bad night? Certainly, but I am not sure that on the best day they could have saved flavorless crab or a one note rabbit and dumplings dish. I also expected more porcine related dishes, when we were there they had four, two apps, one entree, and one special, not really pig-centric.

Clickity. That said, Cochon is not a pork restaurant. It's a Cajun(ish) restaurant. Certainly plenty of fish and seafood in that canon.

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