There is nothing quite like the feeling on the morning after the night before. You wake up late. Every cell in your body feels swollen to three times its original size after last night’s excesses. Surely is not natural for the sun to be so bright so early in the morning, you think, channeling Bridget Jones.
You drag yourself out of bed, pull on jeans and a skanky top and grope your way through the streets to the nearest brunch joint with eyes half shut. (For those of you who live in West End – you don’t know me.) Finally, after what seems like an endless wait, the first ice cold glass of mimosa lands on your table. You take a big gulp of cold acidic liquid, and as it drips down your esophagus, you feel life is slowly returning to your body as the cells shrink to what I sincerely hope was their original size. Life suddenly feels more tolerable.
All the above notwithstanding, every now and then I turn against this tried, true and loved experience and seek other ways to return to life on Sunday mornings. Latin dim sum at Café Atlantico fits the bill, but I’ve done it and done it and done it. Last Sunday, it was time to do an actual dim sum.
Tom says, and I concur, that dim sum options in Chinatown DC suck arse. Dingy dining rooms – what few are open on Sundays - cunningly keep the light out, and just as well, since their roast pork buns taste like they have been fashioned out of dirty toilet tissues. Anything more adventurous then General Tsao’s chicken seems beyond this land of Let’s Please the Masses ™.
So, time to haul bottom to Wheaton to what Tom sez is a real deal.
As any good fortune worth its salt, Good Fortune needs you to travel far, far away from Dupont. For former Terps, please don’t do what this one did and take University Blvd. East. You’ll waste half an hour. Go west.
Good Fortune is low on design and good on food. We were too late to see the carts darting around, which may have been the reason for ordering way too much food. This is what has been had:
- beef innards
- steam roast pork buns
- shrimp toast
- shrimp cakes
- pork and chive dumplings
- shark fin dumplings
- shrimp paste balls
- sticky rice (Lotus something or the other) with Chinese sausage and chicken
- spare ribs with black bean salt
- duck feet stuffed with shrimp
- sesame paste balls for dessert.
If you drive and like good food, and I am as DC-chauvinist piggish as they come, there is really no reason not to come here. Shrimp toast is delicious, if dripping with oil. Anything made into dumplings is a winner – my pork and chive version was bursting with flavor and light. The shark fins one tasted very intense, and really, is there any reason not to? Shrimp balls actually taste of shrimp. Roast pork buns are generous pockets of porky goodness nestled inside airy dough balls. Nibbling on duck feet brings you back to life as you really do need to pay attention not to swallow tiny bones – the stuffing is a generous dollop of shrimp meat secured around the feet with what appears to be skin (of ducks, one sincerely hopes).
Don’t do what I did and smear hot sauce on everything in sight as it packs quite a kick. Luckily, sesame balls provide a much-needed sweet tooth respite from that folly as its sticky, gooey, caramel-like goodness coats your mouth.
As I said, it was way too much food. The total for two with multiple ice teas (no refills) was $42, which included dinner that night.
And I got my bonus: a fortune cookie in form of personalized advice from the kindly old Chinese waiter.
As I was signing the check, he patted my deltoids and said:
“You have good body! But you eat too much! When you old, you fat!”
Really, what do you say to that?
“It’s okay, I only have six months left?”
(Have other snappy comebacks? PM me.)
On the other hand, mmmm, that can be an interesting game on par with naughty schoolgirl and strict principal. “Come here, Miss Pritchard. Close the door. You’ve been eating too much. Let me show you exactly where your girth is now exceeding school regulation…” But I digress.
Washington is a wonderful place to be and I would hate to be any place else. But for better or worse, there are better and more authentic ethnic finds outside the Beltway. And even the most ardent devotees of Washington should occasionally let their love of good adventurous food triumph over their repulsion toward all things suburban. This one does and loves it.
This post has been edited by Nadya: 06 September 2005 - 01:57 PM


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