Posted 10 October 2008 - 12:34 PM
It had been a couple of years since I'd been to DC Coast, but Brendan's move prompted me to return last night.
The bar here is one of the most pleasant 'dining bars' in the city, and I'd forgotten how much I like it. When I opened the menu, I was jarred into thinking exactly what I thought on my last visit here: If any dish cost $1.00 more than it did, it would be priced $1.00 too high. As it stands, everything is seemingly priced exactly as it should be, at least in terms of how the menu "reads," the location and atmosphere of the restaurant, etc. Part of me wants to say Passion Food competes with Great American Restaurants because both companies seem so efficiently run, but in terms of quality, there's no comparison - Passion's restaurants are a lot better (and more expensive).
DC Coast's menu is still in flux, but the Kabocha Squash Soup ($9.00) with toasted pumpkin seeds and kabocha squash ragout will be served for the duration of autumn. I got a brief glimpse of the squash ragout - presented in the bowl with the pumpkin seeds - and really appreciated how finely diced things were. Within seconds, my server poured a pitcher of the squash soup over it, and it was gone. This is a large bowl of comforting soup, but it's extremely thick and served very hot, so much so that I felt the squash ragout was lost, and I couldn't really tell it was there; the pumpkin seeds seemed purely textural because of the heat and viscosity.
After many years, the Hong Kong Style Whole Crispy Fried Striped Bass ($28) with Asian cucumber salad and garlic-soy dipping sauce is coming off the menu next week. I'm told this is Jeff Tunks's recipe, and I remember having this dish the last time I was here - I liked it then, and I liked it just as much last night. It's a beautiful, timeless presentation that I will miss. Yes, the fish can be a little dry on its own, but that's why it's sitting on a pool of broth (along with the ramekin of dipping sauce). I'd love to see this served with a small bowl of plain, short-grain white rice, but it's a moot point since it's coming off the menu. However, I hear that Cliff Wharton is serving a similar presentation with flounder down at Ten Penh.
I thought I'd quietly slip in for a quick dinner last night, and then be on my way. Brendan saw I was there, and brought out a small sample of his amazing lobster boudin blanc (which I factored into the bill) - this isn't on the menu yet, but it's apparently coming soon, and if it does you should order it because it's a terrific boudin. The perils of sending out special tastes: A gentleman sitting next to me saw it and wanted one too - can't say I blamed him!
There isn't yet a super-strong Brendan Cox signature here (and there may never be), but small changes will apparently continue over the next couple of weeks, and I suspect DC Coast will be different three weeks from now than it is today. A good dinner at one of our city's important dining establishments.
Cheers,
Rocks.