Cafe Dupont, The Dupont Hotel

[goodeats]

I was intrigued by the media dinner invite here, which I was grateful for the opportunity to attend last Wednesday. Intrigued because I knew nothing of either The Dupont Hotel or Café Dupont; however, a quick search yielded that it was the now-defunct Dupont Grille and Jurys Washington Hotel with a new interior and renovation (to the tune of $52 million).

Sometimes, not knowing what lies ahead is best because, as many have posted, once you have an expectation, what fruits may not be the seed planted. Not knowing was quite a good thing in this case. Even though I knew this place was a "French bistro concept," this term has become as commonly used as "Asian-fusion," without reflecting its true meaning.

It is only when the menu strays to "concept" did I feel that some of the dishes I tried did not work as well. To decipher what I mean, you first must know that even though Chef Silvan Kramer was born and raised in Saint Gallen, Switzerland, he grew up eating and (eventually) cooking classical French cuisine. His culinary professional journey began at the age of 15, when he apprenticed for three years in Switzerland to become a certified cook; his mom was a big inspiration to him to become a chef, and it shows through his cooking.

Chef Kramer, the current Maitre'd, Marc, and the current GM* all worked together at The Essex House in New York and when the chance to start anew at The Dupont Hotel, they reunited to tackle this reimaging. And a reimaging they did, with a very open, spacious feel, over six-foot long pane windows for apt people-watching, tile floors, pendant lighting, and modern colors of white, black and red; not to mention overhauling the menu. Quite a splash. Even though I did not peek into its sister place, Bar Dupont, I can only image that it might look similar with a more chic feel to engage the younger Dupont scene.

However, the modern decor clashed, in my mind, with the French concept. I guess this is where I am a bit more old-fashioned romantic, with the image of the movie-version of the French bistro (think accordian music, calm and peacefulness). Okay, so I supposed I did have a little bit of an expectation. I am writing this because my mind was so confused during dinner, trying to decipher the complex flavors of the presented dishes, while drowned in discotheque musique -- thump, thump, grind, spin--the ears and taste buds could not reconcile with each other. I wonder if the Bar and dining room share one music system.

That aside, service was truly wonderful, with the start of the evening greeted by a wonderful smile, first by the hostess, and then by my server Ben. He was really patient to chat with me and explain parts of the dishes upon presentation. I was more curious about Chef Kramer, and he too, was gracious and patient when pelted by question after question. I was elated when I could put the decision-making on what to eat in Chef's hands, taking a gamble that greatly paid off, especially since he sent out dishes that I would have ordered as well.

Onto the show:

On the 101 degree day, I was grateful, after a 24 minute walk from work to here, to have the option to order the dupont imperial. There is nothing like a nice bubbly to cool off with after the heated walk, and this one, with sparkling wine and St. Germaine Elderflower syrup, started off the evening right. After putting things in Chef's hands, I did request a lobster salad, a lobster claw and meat atop of argula with a vanilla and orange dressing. This dish did not work for me, mostly because the vanilla and orange combination reminded me too much of eating a dreamsicle, and it was a taste that my cellular memory could not overcome. The lobster meat was very tender, but the accompanied sprinkling of something (I can't remember) made this dish a little fishy tasting, much to my dismay.

Chef next sent out a starter of Gateau de crabe atop of a bacon ragout. Individually, these tasted great: there was little binder to the crab cake, which was nicely crisped on the top and bottom with a subtle sweet taste to it, allowing its natural tastes to shine through, while the smoky bacon pieces mixed in with in-season sweet corn made a wonderful side. Together, the two textures did not marry in the bite. When asked, Chef Kramer said he presented it this way because the saltiness of the bacon would be a nice contrast to the sweetness of the crab. However, this was another concept my brain would not comprehend. Not that I am down-playing the crab, but I know I would order a full bowl of the bacon ragout by itself in a heartbeat -- that was how much this flavor profile overpowered its centerpiece. The main entree was that night's star, and definitely shone; hence the fundamental explanation above. The confit de cuisse de canard (duck leg confit with lentils and roasted cauliflower - $23) was simply amazing: the duck was slow-cooked in duck fat, at a low temperature for many hours. Once the fork hit the leg, the meat blossomed, tasting tender, juicy, and flavorful. The complimenting lentils created a nice contrast and cut any oil one may have tasted. This entree was enough for two, in my opinion, and I was grateful for leftovers.

The accompanying Veuve Cliquot was a nice, dry, bubbling companion through the latter half of the meal. I was, unfortunately, too full for dessert. The simple wine list of reds and whites seems to carry a wide-range of options, but this is where I am such a novice, I dare not comment further.

I love how they have daily specials at $19 of comfort French cuisine. Examples are: coq au vin; balnquette de veau, quiche lorraine, which I am looking forward to trying on my own dime.

Another option that I am very excited that is offered here are the wide variety of options on the Kids Menu. Presented in bento box style, kids can have a balanced meal in fun fashion. Cafe Dupont Kids Menu.pdf

Overall, I feel that this is the place to go now if you are seeking true classical cooking. Although I am not well-versed in classic French cuisine compared to many on this board, I did get this wonderful, comforting aura around the duck confit. Plus, the food is seasonal and fresh, as Chef hates "canned and frozed food," as he answered in a TheHill.com interview. And if you have been disappointed by places such as Montmartre or the nearby Bistro du Coin, perhaps your mind might be changed by your visit here.

* The full names of the GM and Marc, the Maitre'd will be added.

[goodeats]

Chef next sent out a starter of Gateau de crabe atop of a bacon ragout.

[Food Nomad]

I swear I saw a posting on these forums about the Julia Child 100th birthday celebration dinner at Cafe Dupont but I can't find it anymore. I wanted to thank that person for posting that. My mom is a big fan of Julia Child and I got a chance to take her and my dad to the dinner on Saturday. The meal wasn't a completely strict interpretation of Julia Child classics but it was tasty and a good deal. More importantly, my mom seemed to enjoy it and even left with a copy of her biography. Thanks to the phantom poster!

[lperry]

I swear I saw a posting on these forums about the Julia Child 100th birthday celebration dinner at Cafe Dupont but I can't find it anymore. I wanted to thank that person for posting that. My mom is a big fan of Julia Child and I got a chance to take her and my dad to the dinner on Saturday. The meal wasn't a completely strict interpretation of Julia Child classics but it was tasty and a good deal. More importantly, my mom seemed to enjoy it and even left with a copy of her biography. Thanks to the phantom poster!

That would be our calendar. And your welcome.