Don't Try This At Home? Recreate Restaurant Favs?

[tfbrennan]

Cathal Armstrong's recipe in today's Post (Restaurant Eve's Cake) and my wife's directive to get steppin' on it brought to mind my disappointing stab at recreating Patrick O'Connell's superb Sweet Red Bell Pepper Soup with Sambuca Cream (even with the benefit of the recipe, which was in his first cookbook).

Other than the impressive Palena Chicken Project, can Rockwellians (or as newly-annointed, SFDRUNKASSES) share the ups (please) and downs (helpful as well) of such home recreations of favorite restaurant food?

[ol_ironstomach]

Other than the impressive Palena Chicken Project, can Rockwellians (or as newly-annointed, SFDRUNKASSES) share the ups (please) and downs (helpful as well) of such home recreations of favorite restaurant food?

For those of us with meager kitchen skills, Jaleo's endive "salad" is both simple to approximate, and popular with most non-foodie friends. Break apart and wash medium-to-large Belgian endives, then into each leafy boat add pieces of goat cheese, some orange or tangerine suprêmes, and slivers or slices of almond. Season with a bit of pepper and balsamico, and maybe a light drizzle of EVOO.

Lure your guests into trying their hand at assembly (since each piece is a bit labor intensive) while you extoll the virtues of endives to the McDonalds-and-Olive Garden crowd. Also fun for kidlets (aka nieces) to assist with.

[mktye]

I recently purchased Rick Tramonto's (of Tru in Chicago) cookbook, Amuse Bouche, and made the roasted shallot custard recipe. It turned out very well, but in thumbing through the other recipes in the book, it is obvious from the pictures (of his restaurant food?) that not all the recipes match up with what is shown in the pictures. Extra sauces, different presentations, what appears to be nori-wrapping in the case of one seared tuna amuse, and so on.

The most outrageous and daunting professional chef cookbook I've seen is La Patisserie de Pierre Herme. Most pro-level pastry books are rather light on instructions in the first place (c'mon, everyone knows how to mix a cake, right ), but to further complicate things, the English-version of the book was originally written in French and translated by a Spanish publishing house. Needless to say, some of the instructions are rather crytic and amusing... "cool at high speed" or that mixing milk and dark chocolate in a recipe will result in a "barstard" product.

I've also had an experience with a proprietor of an establishment who purposely gave out an inaccurate recipe. There is a B&B in southern California that is quite popular in their community for private luncheons and dinners and they serve a locally-famous banana cream pie. The owner of the B&B is always happy to give out the recipe, but it is in no way the real recipe for the pie. Not even close.

Overall, my feelings are that a good chef does not neccessarily equate with a good cookbook/recipe. Not everyone has a talent for conveying their knowledge in that format and, if they do not have talented cookbook writers/editors helping them, then replicating restaurant dishes from what is published in their cookbook can be a difficult task.

[Waitman]

Most of the time I've tried to recreate a restaurant dinner, it's been by using their cookbook and has come out OK. But the one time I really wanted to duplicate something, oddly enough, it was a vegetable side dish I'd had in a small restaurant on the Cote d'Azure. It looked like the kind of mixed vegetables you get at a cafeteria -- some carrots, some onions, whatever - but tasted alarmingly good.

A couple of months after I go back, I tried it, slow cooking onions in a lot of olive oil, then adding whol garlic, bay leaf, fennel carrots and green beans -- and a huge slug of pastisse. Amazingly enough, it worked!

I also like making another dish that looked a little unfortunate when I was served it in a taverna near Athens, stewed eggplant, onion, tomato, with some good feta added at the end and a lemon squished over the top. But that was an obvious one.

Finding a way to make carrots taste good -- that was a challenge.

[bilrus]

Around this time last year, I tried to obsessively create a full five course meal out of the French Laundry Cookbook and documented it on eGullet as a learning experience. Mostly ups and a few downs. And a hell of a lot of work.

I've always had pretty good success with restaurant cookbooks. My favorites are the Babbo cookbook (almost any pasta recipe), The Zuni Cafe Cookbook (chicken with bread salad and their Caesar), the Chez Panisse Cafe Cookbook and the Hamersley Bistro Cookbook (The goat cheese and walnut pasta is my go-to, guests are coming for a casual dinner). I also have made nice meals out of the Inn at Little Washington book and Jose Andres' Tapas book.

I did try to recreate a red-lentil soup that I had at Zaytinya one time and was pretty succsessful. I don't know how close it really was but it tastes very good. And I've lately been trying to recreate a St. Louis style red pasta sauce with meat - a little sweeter than the typical - and I think I've got a pretty good version nailed down. Sometimes even if you don't nail it, a dish you have at a restaurant can be good inspiration and you come up with your own, pretty good dish.

[jcc]

I've had some luck with Todd English's Butternut Squash Tortelli. It's pretty rich, but a lot of fun to make if you have some time to invest over an evening.

This is my wife's favorite dish at Olives.

[dcdavidm]

A couple of our hits-and-misses books and dishes after having tried the chef-prepared food:

We echo the postings about Mario Batali's Babbo cookbooks. Great intense flavors and can-do preparations. Follow his ragu recipe and it tastes exactly like that in the restaurant. His are our go-to Italian restaurant books. Try the "Mint Love Letters" and you, and your guests, will be impressed. "Dry Rubbed Ribeye Steak" has become our favorite steak preparation; easy to cook on the grill; knock-out-good flavors; but needs a really thick piece of meat and the rub needs to be applied a day in advance. "Braised Short Ribs with Horseradish Gremolata and Pumpkin Orzo" was an especially satisfying winter dish.

Susanna Foo Chinese Cuisine: This longstanding Philadelphia gem is one of our favorite white tablecloth Chinese restaurants and the cookbook brings the dishes home. The recipes by and large do not require laundry lists of hard-to-find ingredients. Our favorite is "Honey Grilled Lamb Chops with Jalapeno Pepper Puree. You won't have any leftovers.

Alfred Portale's Gotham Bar and Grill Cookbook and his 12 Seasons Cookbook: Portale admits that many of the recipes are involved and time-consuming, but he wrote the books to accommodate the differences in equipment and skills between a professional kitchen and a home kitchen. From the Gotham book, the "Grilled Asian Chicken, Grilled Asparagus, and Ginger Ailoi" is especially satisfying. We especially like the 12 Season Cookbook because it forces us to go out and seek the best of each season; try the "Grilled Soft-Shell Crabs with Asparagus and Lemon-Caper Vinaigrette." We are always pleased at how well dishes from both books turn out.

Tom Douglas Seattle Kitchen Cookbook: Decent recipes, especially for seafood, but a rather unfocused book. Many of the dishes are Asian-influenced, which we like. Pretty straightforward preparations that reflect the style of his restaurants.

Charlie Trotter Kitchen Sessions Cookbook: We found ourselves not using this book as much as we thought we would. Many of the recipes are just too involved for what you get at the end; many require sub-preparations of sauces and condiments that take advance planning. The attempt at artsy typefaces will drive you nuts.

[mktye]

Corduroy's Slow-Cooked Pork Belly and Cabbage

[Jacques Gastreaux]

Corduroy's Slow-Cooked Pork Belly and Cabbage

Sacre Bleu:

12-ounce jar Heinz Home Style beef gravy

[mktye]

Sacre Bleu:

12-ounce jar Heinz Home Style beef gravy

Note that it is called for in the "quick" recipe designed for the average home cook. It appears to be an easy/quick substitute for the veal stock used in the restaurant version.

[dmaddox]

I've always had the best luck with bistro food. Some months ago I was served a simple meal of perfectly sauteed duck breast sliced over a bed of truffled polenta and creamed leeks, with a simple pan sauce of white wine with cherry tomatoes and mushrooms, with a side of roasted asparagus. After a couple of tries at home, I got it just about right. It works well with small filet steaks as well. The first time I tried it, though, the leeks were way to assertive. I've since learned to sweat them for quite a while (15-20 minutes) in broth or wine to tame them down before adding the cream.

Now, the one thing I've tried desperately to recreate (and failed every time) is a dish my wife had while vacationing at the Grand Canyon. We ate at the El Tovar, the old hotel right on the rim of the canyon. She had pheasant with a rice, pecan, and dried cherry stuffing, served with an unsweetened vanilla sauce. It's the sauce that kills me. If anyone out there has anything that might be close, I'd be willing to try again. That meal was 15 years ago, and she still puts that at the top of her all-time favorite meals.

[Al Dente]

Sacre Bleu:

Don't knock it. Good stuff. I drink it right out of the can.

[Heather]

Corduroy's Slow-Cooked Pork Belly and Cabbage

I'm going to try this and report back. I'll even buy the gravy, even though we have veal stock in the freezer.

I've had very good luck recreating dishes using restaurant cookbooks, particularly Bouchon, although I rather suspect that Keller's recipe's turn out because he doesn't expect the home cook to take any short cuts. On my own the track record is not so good.

[Mrs. B]

The Oyster Pan Roast recipe in the Oyster Bar in Grand Central NYC cookbook works really well. But I'm a sucker for anything with oysters and cream and heinz chili sauce.

[legant]

What's the secret to get a chef to share her/his recipe for a particular dish? (Cookbook is not available. Yet.) I've tried phone calls and e-mails to no avail; I even asked while still in the restaurant. It really is quite frustrating: If you choose not to "reveal" a recipe fine! Just tell me; acknowlege my entreaties rather than ignore them.

[Waitman]

Sacre Bleu:

I knew I saw a Sysco truck outside the hotel!

What's the secret to get a chef to share her/his recipe for a particular dish? (Cookbook is not available. Yet.) I've tried phone calls and e-mails to no avail; I even asked while still in the restaurant. It really is quite frustrating: If you choose not to "reveal" a recipe fine! Just tell me; acknowlege my entreaties rather than ignore them.

Both Cathal Armstrong and Chef Orange at La Chaumiere were kind enough to pass along recipes for Saucisse de Toulous when I was making a cassoulet. Maybe some chgefs are just more proprietary. Or overwhelmed with chefly duties.

Check out the Ask Tom at the bottom of this review.

[Erin11]

... it brought to mind my disappointing stab at recreating Patrick O'Connell's superb Sweet Red Bell Pepper Soup with Sambuca Cream (even with the benefit of the recipe, which was in his first cookbook).

This brings to mind something I read in Bill Buford's book Heat. While working as a "kitchen slave" at Babbo he comments on all the "extra" touches/additions done in the restaurant kitchen that aren't revealed in cookbooks. He was noting the addition of a special sauce under an entree that isn't mentioned in the official Babbo cookbook.

[Pat]

A while back, I tried to recreate the biscuits we had at the DR dinner at Circle Bistro, going on the chef's tips that it was based on a parker house roll recipe and used crisco. I've only made one attempt, though I keep thinking about it. My effort turned out a great batch of something akin to crumpets but not the product I was trying to make.

[legant]

Thanks Waitman! So this is why they haven't replied!

I was unable to deliver to <info@xxxxx.com> because the user is over their quota.

Next step: hand-delivered letter to the restaurant in question.

[legant]

On page 44 of the current issue of MetroWeekly -- free in pink/purple newsboxes at virtually ever corner -- is an ad for Simply Home. The ad features a shrimp dish with what looks like sliced apples, some sort of cream sauce, some sort of greens, maybe orange zest, and (what I'm guessing is) julienned jicama.

What do you think are the components of the dish? How would you recreate this at home? [99% of the appeal is plating.] Yet, I've visited their website and couldn't find a better image of the dish or even a description of the entree (appetizer?) on the menu that might provide a hint as to the ingredients. I know, I know... I could call the restaurant... but what fun is that? What's your best guess, based on sight alone, of what's in this dish?

[JAC13]

Last night I tried to recreate Komi's amazing mascarpone stuffed dates. It seemed simple enough- pipe the cheese slow-cook the dates on a low temp and then drizzle w/high-quality olive oil and sea salt. In practice, however, it was a disaster: the cheese just turned to liquid in the over and oozed right out of the date before I could ever get to olive oil and salt part. Has anyone had any success this with this concept or any ideas as to how I might be able to have better luck next time?? Thanks in advance!!

[Pat]

Last night I tried to recreate Komi's amazing mascarpone stuffed dates. It seemed simple enough- pipe the cheese slow-cook the dates on a low temp and then drizzle w/high-quality olive oil and sea salt. In practice, however, it was a disaster: the cheese just turned to liquid in the over and oozed right out of the date before I could ever get to olive oil and salt part. Has anyone had any success this with this concept or any ideas as to how I might be able to have better luck next time?? Thanks in advance!!

When I tried it, the cheese was okay, but I used too much salt.

I guess I should say that I stuffed the dates first and then coated in olive oil and salt before heating. It definitely requires a light hand with the salt.

[DanCole42]

I seem to recall the dates having a little more than mascarpone... maybe cream cheese? That might affect the melting. I also seem to vaguely recall something about a braise.

Regardless, I wouldn't be surprised if the piping were done late in or even after the actual cooking process.

[mdt]

I seem to recall the dates having a little more than mascarpone... maybe cream cheese? That might affect the melting. I also seem to vaguely recall something about a braise.

Regardless, I wouldn't be surprised if the piping were done late in or even after the actual cooking process.

Mascarpone is pretty thick and it has held up when I have made them. I don't recall them mentioning that they add anything else, but it would not surprise me.

When I have made them I just fill and put them in a hot oven for a bit and that worked well. Why did you try the low/slow oven?

[zoramargolis]

Instead of mascarpone, I stuff Medjool dates with homemade lavender-fennel chevre and add a bit of lemon zest on top --Meyer lemon, in season. A couple of minutes in a hot oven is plenty to warm it all without melting the cheese too much. Using chevre gives it a slightly acidic tang that is a nice balance to the sweetness of the date.

My homemade chevre is creamier than many other fresh chevres I have tasted (I probably don't drain the curd as thoroughly). So if you were to use a chevre that is a bit on the chalky side, as some chevres are, mix in a bit of creme fraiche, whole milk greek yogurt, or...mascarpone.

[jkn]

Johnny kindly gave us a quick rundown on the dates one night after dinner. The dates are stuffed with mascarpone and greek yogurt then refrigerated overnight. The dates are the cooked for a couple of minutes in a very hot over (I think he said 400-450). They are then covered with olive oil and salted.

[cjsadler]

Johnny kindly gave us a quick rundown on the dates one night after dinner. The dates are stuffed with mascarpone and greek yogurt then refrigerated overnight. The dates are the cooked for a couple of minutes in a very hot over (I think he said 400-450). They are then covered with olive oil and salted.

I find the refrigerating is key for guarding against oozing. I just go with mascarpone too, no yogurt. The hell with piping, as it's a pain and doesn't quite get enough in the date for my tastes. Cut down the side of the date, pop out the pit and press the insides of the date a bit to make more room. Put a dollop of mascarpone in and then seal the date back together around it. Throw in the fridge. Hot oven like mdt said. I do it at 450-475 for a few minutes (the high heat will sorta caramelize the outside a bit, which is nice).

[Anna Blume]

Here's a tip for getting closer to Fabio Trabocchi's absolutely amazing chestnut soup.

Follow the recipe in his cookbook on Le Marche, but not to the letter.

At one point, you need to add a torchon of foie gras.

While I thought I had never eaten an ingredient that bothers me for a number of reasons, apparently I have.

[zoramargolis]

While I thought I had never eaten an ingredient that bothers me for a number of reasons, apparently I have.

Sometimes what you don't know can be delicious...

[Anna Blume]

Modest appeal: Anyone care to figure out what makes Teaism's sweet potato salad so addictive?

It's got white miso in dressing. What else?

[TinDC]

Modest appeal: Anyone care to figure out what makes Teaism's sweet potato salad so addictive?

It's got white miso in dressing. What else?

I *just* saw this recipe published somewhere in the past two weeks...was it the Washington Post?? I am trying hard to remember but I do know it was very easy to prepare. If I recall correctly, there was tahini in the dressing...

Edited to say: Found it! It is on the Washingtonian website: http://www.washingtonian.com/blogarticles/restaurants/bestbites/13722.html

[schulju]

For those of us with meager kitchen skills, Jaleo's endive "salad" is both simple to approximate, and popular with most non-foodie friends. Break apart and wash medium-to-large Belgian endives, then into each leafy boat add pieces of goat cheese, some orange or tangerine suprêmes, and slivers or slices of almond. Season with a bit of pepper and balsamico, and maybe a light drizzle of EVOO.

Lure your guests into trying their hand at assembly (since each piece is a bit labor intensive) while you extoll the virtues of endives to the McDonalds-and-Olive Garden crowd. Also fun for kidlets (aka nieces) to assist with.

I make this all the time, it tastes like spring to me! Since hubby's not a fan of goat cheese, I mix it half and half with boursin, add the orange and almond slices and dress with a honey shallot vinagrette. It's now an "expected" dish at family outings.