Posted 21 September 2005 - 12:58 PM
A few friends and I had dinner at Queen Makeda a little while ago prior to a show at the (what I still think of as the new and not nearly as cool) 9:30. People have described this place as third world (accurate) but also as serving some of the best Ethiopian in DC right now (can’t say how accurate that is) so I had to give it a go. We walked into the unlit room and found one other person, an Ethiopian guy who appeared to be having a bad day. Possibly a bad life. He was sitting at a table, watching television and drinking what I presume was one of many beers he had enjoyed prior to our arrival. A woman came out of the kitchen, turned off the tv, ordered him to move and sat us down at the table where he had been sitting. The table was covered with a filthy tablecloth that had sizable chunks of dried crud on it. The crud had made itself at home, it was not fresh crud. The intoxicated man was clearly not happy about something--the seating arrangements, the turned off television, the weather--who knows. The woman got us beers and put a tape of Ethiopian music into the cassette deck. Rock-n-roll.
We settled in and asked what was good. She told us chicken and greens. Ok…but, are there any lentils? No, no lentils. Ok, that’s fine, just feed us. She goes away and after a time, a long time, like an hour or so, heavenly smells begin to waft out of the kitchen. In the meantime, we drink our beers and become surrounded by swarms of aggressive fruit flies. And, interestingly, we watch as intoxicated man morphs into Angry Man. Angry Man occasionally looked our way and stammered “ridiculous” in a tone that could easily be interpreted as hostile. Later, he got up and paced the hallway a few times, muttering that same “ridiculous” mantra each time he passed our table. It was charming.
The woman finally brings our food and God bless her, she has made lentils. She looked at us with jaundiced eyes and smiled sweetly, revealing shockingly gray gums. She spooned out the lentils, ground beef and doro wot onto the injera. But, no greens. I didn’t bother asking. A few minutes later, just as we were digging in, she brings out tripe. I liked everything with the exception of the tripe — it is a texture thing with me - but I did love the carrots that came with the tripe. The sweet woman seemed genuinely happy when we told her how much we were enjoying the food. The doro wot was particularly good, the chicken was very tender and the flavors were big--full, intense and earthy.
Darkness came. Outside and inside. People started filing into the room from upstairs and a spirited discussion at least and a fairly serious argument at most, ensued. Angry Man pointed us out to the newly arrived crowd and once again proclaimed us “ridiculous.” It was the only word he spoke in English the entire evening. The upside of the dark room was that it was suddenly very easy to avoid eye contact with Angry Man. The downside was that it became challenging to swat the fruit flies. I suspect we consumed a few.
Six beers and dinner for three were $42.00. We tipped generously. Despite the less than top drawer conditions and a pesky lingering thought that we should’ve had a vaccination or two prior to our visit, we enjoyed ourselves. Not something I’d be in the mood for too often but I liked the food and loved the strangeness of it all.