http://www.donrockwell.com/index.php?showt...mp;#entry124416 is the link to a post of mine about this restaurant which is in Chilhowee, directly off I 81 29 miles north of Bristol, TN and approximately 315 miles south of downtown Washington. I would like to call attention to it here since it is perhaps the most intriguing restaurant in the United States right now.

The chef and pastry chef at the Town House Grill are not exactly locals.

I'm sorry you were there on a Monday, Joe. It's really quite an amazing place. John Shields and Karen Urie, and the local owners, are, indeed, attempting something fairly absurd -- to create a world-class, experimental restaurant that is not in the vicinity of any major (or minor) metropolitan area. Last June, for $45 or so, I had one of the best meals of my life there -- nominally five courses, but it turned out to be closer to nine or ten distinct bits of heaven. It is, indeed, an oasis in an area where previously Wendy's was (no joke) the best restaurant around for fifty miles or so. (Ever been to Ridgewood Barbeque in Bluff City, TN, Joe? --that's the closest great meal.) The photos say it all. John and Karen are very much the students of Trotter and Achatz. They take great pride in -- have a blast with -- the elaborate, intricate creations, the "you can't possibly combine those disparate things" disbelief of their clientele. They have extraordinary senses of taste, and abilities to tease out combos that one could not have imagined but that somehow work brilliantly (OK, about 80% of the time, anyway -- not bad odds at these prices).

Truth be told, although it can be breathtaking, and shockingly delicious, it can also be too much at times. It almost overwhelms the diner, there's just so much going on. Almost not enough time to savor the novelty of any particular dish. I think that, as they become more self-assured, they will resist the impulse to be quite so bold, they'll simplify somewhat, in which case (I predict) their cooking will only improve: The wild experimentation might lead to a distilled purity that could be even better. Or not -- who knows? They could go in an infinite number of directions; they certainly aren't lacking for skills, imagination and inspiration.

It's something to behold.

Can it survive in Chilhowie? One would think not. But the owners themselves don't seem to need to turn a profit on this particular experiment, and they brought John and Karen there for the best reason of all: because they themselves wanted to be able to enjoy inspiring food in their own neighborhood.

Of course it seems obvious that J&K might end up in DC, or back in Chicago, or elsewhere -- in which case their spectacular meals will cost three times what they do in Chilhowie.

In the meantime, make sure not to travel to Asheville on a Sunday or Monday.

HOLY CRAP!!!!

I just found these posts. I grew up in Saltville, which is about eight miles up 107 from Chilhowie! My mother still lives there and that's where I'll be spending the holidays. I'm hella stoked to give this place a go. In fact, time to call Mom about reservations . . . .

Cheers!