Cowgirl Creamery. Boy, there's lots to say. Stopped by this afternoon. Let's start with a brief on what the place looks like.
It's very white. Very, very white. Counters, walls, registers, wall fridges, the "lab coats" worn by the help (and when I was there, all of the customers!) Three "rooms" to the place. You come in and there's the register on your right, along with some cheeses cut up for you to taste. Today it was the Mount Tam triple creme and the St. Pat, which is CC's spring cheese, wrapped in nettles. (Both are relatively young cheeses, ergo pasteurized milk. The Mt. Tam is fresh and clean tasting but the St. Pat is much better to my taste, with a tangy, vegetal essence permeating thanks to the nettle wrapping.) Behind the counter are some shelves including empty bottles that will eventually be filled with fresh McEvoy olive oil from CA. Also on the counter are a handful of open breads (baguette price is 2.25, although I didn't ask where it was from) and packaged crackers.
To your left in this first "room" near the entry is a cooler with beverages and a small open fridge holding some cheese. They had some prefilled bags specially packed for the opening with a chunk of Point Reyes Blue, Mt. Tam and St. George, a CA cheese made in a Portuguese style (a longer aging on this one concentrates more flavor out of it), and a CC-branded cheese spreader. These were sold for $20 each.
Moving on to the middle "room" it was pretty empty, but am told it will soon be filled with wines. Although I can't say for sure, it would probably be a good bet that most of them will come from northern CA. The treasures were in the last room. Many more cheeses to choose from in one section. A self-serve fridge in another with some cheeses (including some beautiful open pieces of Constant Bliss from Jasper Hill sitting in a little mini-crate. I dare you to leave without one!) and cultured butter and the like. Another corner deli-case holds three kinds of olives and fresh cheeses. In the back there's some offices (with very white walls) and a big walk-in that I wasn't allowed to visit even though I asked nicely.
Ok. The product. As for variety of cheese, for the time being there's much, much more at Cheesetique and Arrowine. Clearly that's going to change as more stock comes in. You have got to. Repeat, GOT TO, try the fresh cheeses. There are sheep milk and cow milk ricottas. They were the finest ricotta cheeses I have ever tasted. Fresh (duh!), tangy, soft, silky, dairy. Very dry, too. No extra whey hanging out in there that I could see. They tasted fresh from the farm. Hell, they tasted like you were eating them on the farm. I'm a huge fan of Paul Stephan's Blue Ridge Dairy ricotta that I get at the Dupont Market, but holy shit, these were miles away better. And they're only slightly more expensive than Blue Ridge. (I think they're $6.75/lb at CC). Yes, I know that Blue Ridge gets the milk from local cows but.....wow. And if that's not enough, you gotta try the mascarpone and the cultured cottage cheese.
The help. Katie from Arrowine is, indeed, Asst. Mgr. and cheesemonger at CC. (She says she was saddened to leave Arrowine). For those of you who met Katie at Arrowine, she knows her stuff. Not only trained with classes at Artisanal in NY but working all those hours with Aldo the Cheese God will help, too. Also to be working at CC is Pablo, cheesemaker from Firefly Farms in Garrett County, MD. You may know Pablo from when he staffs the Firefly booth at the Dupont Market. He'll be working at CC on Saturdays only. (Perhaps only Saturday mornings. I can't recall).
So, having a commercial cheesemaker on staff clearly makes CC distinctive from our friends at Cheesetique and Arrowine. Another difference is (and I hope I am both, correct in this and recalling properly what Katie told me) that CC will be getting cheeses sent direct from France to the store from an affineur who will personally select the cheeses.
Now, all of these things are nice. And these are good cheeses that they have. And they seem well cared for. And, knowing Katie and Pablo, they've clearly got a good staff. But here's the thing. It's not a neighborhood cheese store. CC looks and feels sterile. Cheesetique is Cheesetique not only because it provides you with great, well-tended cheeses served to you by a knowledgable staff. But Cheesetique is Cheesetique because it has Jill Erber's personality. The store is special because it has Jill and she's local, and it's her store and you can see it (and her with those cute little posters!) all over. That personality is entirely absent from CC. Cheesetique is your neighborhood cheese store. CC is not. CC is convenient, and in a pricey part of town, that's for sure. And some of the cheese prices reflect that (but not all).
And while I don't know if CC is planning this, Jill does some great cheese tasting classes. And those also reflect her personality and love for her product. We'll just have to see if that comes from CC, too. I think there's definitely room for all these cheese shops in the area and I can only hope it will bring more love for cheese to the community. Check out CC (and taste those fresh cheeses!), but don't neglect the shops owned by your neighbors. It's not just product and price, it's personality, too.