Pizza Making - Getting Out of the Intermediate RutI've always thought of myself as a pretty good home pizza cook. I didn't drop my pizzas to the floor of the oven. I used a pizza stone. My pies didn't come out covered in raw sausage (or worse, charcoal). But something was missing. My toppings were good and my crusts consistent, but there was nothing truly
great here. I found that, even with practice, I was still churning out mediocrity. I wanted to go to the next level.
So I absorbed myself in study. I read books on bread and pizza making. My best resource was a handful of individuals at
pizzamaking.com. I also made a lot of dough. A LOT of dough. I set out to take myself to the next level, and now I share what I learned here.
1) Measure by Weight
No questions here. This is the only way to achieve consistent quality and control in your dough. I even weigh the water down to the gram.
2) Know Your Ingredients
Pizza is so simple in terms of what goes into it: flour, water, yeast, maybe a few extras. But that's just it. The fact that it's so simple means that each component is that much more important. Using Pillsbury flour to thicken a pan sauce versus using some kind of specialty flour would be all but undetectable. Not so with pizza.
3) Go Easy
Part of my problem in the past was that I would try and cram twelve pies worth of ingredients into my mixer. This meant uneven and inconsistent dough. Now I don't go more than two or three twelve inch pies worth at a time.So what did all my experience yield?
Dan's Ultimate Pizza Dough-100% flour. I use a mixture of 75% Caputo 00 (available
here) and 25% King Arthur bread flour (available at your local megamart). The bread flour is mixed in because the Caputo is optimized for a 900 degree oven.
-58.5% water. Filtered, of course. The chlorine in tap water kills yeast!
-0.25% instant dry yeast. Available through the King Arthur Flour
website.
-2% Diamond Crystal kosher salt.
-2% olive oil (not extra virgin - the florals in it yield off flavors when baked).
For those unfamiliar with bakers percentages, basically you just take the amount of flour you have (by weight!) and multiply that by the percent. So for example if you start with 300g of flour (good for about two 10-12 inch pies - and remember, that would be 225g 00 and 75g bread flour), you would put in 300 x .585 = 175.5g of water.
Different flours absorb water at different rates, so the amount of water might change depending on the amount of flour you're using. For example, Caputo 00 has an absorption rate of 57%, while the bread flour has an absorption rate of 63% (.25*.63 +.75*.57 = 58.5%).
"What? No sugar? What the frak?" There is plenty of sugar in this recipe. It's locked up in the starch in the flour, and the yeast is going to free it for us during a long, cold fermentation. This fermentation has the added bonus of turning the dough into the perfect texture for stretching into a flat pie easily and without tearing. It also brings some amazing flavors to the party. These same starch-derived sugars contribute a nice browning to the final product, even in a home oven. That's why we don't have sugar: the yeast would eat it too quickly, die, and you'd end up with an overfermented dough. It's also why there's so little yeast (less competition, more chance to grow slowly).
Make sure your water is no warmer than 40 degrees. You want a final dough temperature that's below room temperature to hold off activation of the yeast as long as possible.
Start by sifting the flour. While you prepare the other ingredients, keep the flour in the fridge (again, to keep your final temperature low).
For this recipe, never go above the lowest setting on your mixer.
Using the whisk attachment on your Kitchen Aid, whisk together the salt, oil, and water with 25% of the flour. Switch to the hook attachment and add the rest of the flour. Once you've got an homogeneous blob that's pulling away from the sides, knead for five minutes. Add the yeast, and knead for another minute more or until you no longer see yeast on the surface.
"You're adding yeast at the END? You're a madman!" No, I'm not. Adding the yeast at the end decreases the time the yeast spends working in a warm fermentation, allowing you to let it go long and slow in the fridge. Don't worry, the yeast will even out in the end.
Remove, then knead by hand on a lightly flour surface for another 1-2 minutes. Keep it short, you don't want to heat the dough up!
Roll the dough into a ball, and place in a covered container in the refrigerator. I like to use small cookie tins. They're not airtight, so they let the dough breathe, but they keep moisture in so it doesn't dry out.
Keep the dough in the fridge for 7-14 days. You should notice that by the fifth or sixth day it will start to flatten out. It can be used any time after that, but after eight or nine days you start running up against the spoilage/overfermentation clock. I like seven days: make the dough on Sunday, enjoy pizza the next Sunday.
Bring the dough to room temperature over the course of two to three hours. With gravity as your bitch, stretch the dough into the appropriate shape. Stick it on a floured and slippery pizza peel. Sprinkle on salt, then your favorite toppings. Do NOT brush the dough with oil. Cook on a pizza stone in the hottest oven possible until delicious. Also, go easy on the toppings. If your toppings come up higher than the dough is thick at the rim, cut back (individual pieces of bacon that stick up higher than this are perfectly fine).
So, to sum up:
-300g sifted flour, 75% Caputo 00 and 25% KA Bread
-58.5% cold, filtered water
-0.25% IDY
-2% kosher salt
-2% olive oil
Whisk 25% of the flour with the salt, oil, and water until well combined. Using the dough hook, add the remaining flour and knead for five minutes once combined. Add yeast, then mix for an additional minute until incorporated. Hand knead an additional two minutes. Roll into a ball, then store, covered, in the refrigerator for 7-14 days. Bring to room temperature over the course of 2-3 hours, shape, salt, top, and bake!
And enjoy. You are now a pizza pimp.