We've all had things happen in the kitchen - those DOH! experiences that leave us helpless with frustrated rage and a gawdawful mess to clean up. I thought it was very brave of Julie Powell in her_Julie/Julia Project_ to admit that she had allowed her kitchen to get so filthy that she was breeding houseflies under her dish drainer. These are usually things that you tell no one about, and try to forget they ever happened.
Sometimes, though, disasters can be rescued, and transformed into something completely different and actually edible. I had one of the latter today, although goodness knows I've had plenty of the former--like the time the waxed carton of chicken stock leaked all over the inside of my pantry and spoiled. Pyew. Or the time I didn't read the Dionne Lucas recipe for boneless leg of lamb stuffed with sausage critically enough, and ended up with company at the table, and medium rare lamb with uncooked pork sausage in the center. Or the time a juice glass slipped down into the garbage disposal, or the glass carafe of olive oil smashed all over the floor...
This time, though, I had bought some pretty-looking, small blush-tinged local apricots at Wegman's that turned out to be some new form of vegetable-based flannel. My favorite solution for fruit that isn't fit to eat raw is to make compote, since cooking fruit with sugar often transforms it into something quite a bit tastier. I pitted and cut up the apricots, added sugar, peach liqueur, some brandy, a little water and some orange peel, covered the pot and put it on a low flame. Then I went off to do something else in the back of the house...and completely forgot about the compote. By the time I smelled it and remembered what I had left on the stove, the liquid had all evaporated and the sugar had caramelized and started to burn. Instead of bright orange apricots, I had dark brown sludge. But, miracle of miracles, it didn't taste totally bitter or scorched. I added some more peach liqueur and a bit of water. And started to think about what I could do with caramelized apricot sludge. I ended up making flan--poured the apricot caramel on the bottom of a casserole and a custard mix (eggs, sweetened condensed milk, milk, creme fraiche, vanilla and orange zest) on top. I baked it in a water bath at 300 for 40 minutes and at 325 for another ten when it hadn't set. And it not only was edible, it was actually delicious. The custard was light and silky-- the mild, vanilla custard and intense dark caramelized fruit were a chiaroscuro of flavors. Wow. The apricot compote I originally had in mind was going to go on some vanilla ice cream, maybe. What I ended up doing was risky, a lot of work and valuable ingredients that would have been wasted if it hadn't worked out--nothing I would ever have thought to do if I hadn't had a barely averted disaster to contend with. And it worked. Whew. I did have to work on the All-Clad pot with some Bartender's Friend to get the burndy stuff off the bottom, though.
Okay, all you kitchenistas out there. Your turn--fess up!
