QUOTE (Al Dente @ Oct 9 2006, 02:32 PM)

Back when I was a yute, my "go to" cookbook was Great Good Food by Julie Rosso...My friends politely gnawed on the chicken when I offered them up...
I can't remember many incompetent recipes in the book, but I do remember how horrid that overly earnest, misguided phase of Americanized
cuisine minceur was. There's an all-purpose lower-calorie dairy whip you're supposed to blend, made of cottage cheese or some other awful stuff, and then use as a substitute for heavy cream, sour cream, and all sorts of superior ingredients.
I think I kept the book for two excellent recipes: one for Dirty Rice with black beans and another for Acorn Squash Soup with lentils--though certainly when you're boiling peeled winter squash, you could make your life easier by chosing a different kind of squash.
QUOTE (The Hersch @ Jan 21 2007, 02:59 PM)

I love Marcella Hazan's cookbooks, but I generally don't trust any of her recipes. In Marcella Cucina, for example, she has a beef stew recipe on page 313 where the beef chuck gets cooked till very tender, about 1 hour. A beginning cook might plan a dinner party around this recipe and have some very hungry guests before the beef was tender. The previous beef stew recipe, on p. 311, gives two hours of cooking the beef chuck, which is still probably not enough, but regardless, they can't both be correct.
Well, I could definitely see your point on these instructions since any good Italian braise should take around three hours. However, I wouldn't essentialize

on this basis. As far as I'm concerned, Dr. Hazan is to be worshipped for clear, simple (if sometimes complicated or time-consuming) instructions in recipes that dealt well with what was and was not available to home cooks in the US 20-30 years ago. There are only two recipes in her Classic--now Essentials--cookbooks that I dislike: carbonara (not authentic & a bit greasy) and eggplant parmigiana (greasy), though the latter, altered, is the basis of what I do to this day. Until I discovered
The Splendid Table, Hazan's ragu was on my short list of favorite things to eat in the world no matter who's cooking. I'd still make it if I have ground beef, but no veal, pork, pancetta, prosciutto and Italian sausage hanging around the house.
Great topic, Heather.
The first edition of Mark Bittman's
How to Cook Everything has a lot of errors, though it had gotten to the point where I wondered if cookbook authors felt that, just like a certain kind of rug woven by nomads in Afghanistan, each effort had to have a few flaws to ward off the evil eye. For example, you're told to add the tomatoes "now" in a recipe for coq au vin. Why in coq au vin? Nor are they listed as an ingredient. Brown bread? You're told instructions for steaming will follow, but they don't.
Michele Urvater won a James Beard award for
Monday to Friday, a cookbook that basically told professionals, especially working parents, that it was okay to mix frozen corn into cornmeal and serve the mush for dinner--sort of the Walmart version of Polenta with Fresh Corn in
The Zuni Cafe Cookbook--without welling up mit Guilt und Angst. Again, there are a handful of excellent, quick recipes, but among the ones that sound really, really dreadful, there are others that sound kind of good that turn out dry or flavorless or unfortunately flavored. And never stock your pantry with things you're told will make simple, quick desserts in an emergency if you don't normally eat them as is. I finally tossed that expired can of crushed pineapple.