Remember, H, I am one of Marcella's Vestal Virgins. Sort of. At any rate, I've been making Hazan's ragu for two decades with great pleasure. This recipe from
The Splendid Table is new to me and I am a convert. I am sure there are a gazillion versions of what Bologna calls ragu and for what Naples would call salsa Bolognese since it's not a REAL ragu (cf. thread on ragu in Italian forum on eGullet). So who's to say what's right?
I've made a completely different ragu from the same book with prosciutto, chicken thigh meat, giblets, heavy cream, pork sausage, etc. and while sort of okay on pasta, breath-takingly spectacular in a lasagna whose layers of egg pasta are built with strips of more prosciutto, bechamel and cheese. Be still, my diet.
In Naples, red wine seems to be traditional and the point is that it is all about the meat, served as a main course (secondo) after the ragu is prepared. In Emilia-Romagna, the point is to make a meaty sauce for pasta, destined exclusively for the pasta, or primo. I don't know if I've read enough culinary history to comment upon what was made in Bologna prior to the introduction and wide acceptance of the tomato in Italy. I am pretty sure there are extant, early recipes for Neopolitan ragu without tomato. However, you'll need to focus on the grouchy, arrogant posts of Pizza Napolitana in the eG thread on ragu for further details. (However arrogant PN might be, he's much more informed than I am, though on matters pertainly to Naples, not Bologna.)