QUOTE(Waitman @ Jan 8 2007, 04:01 PM)

Given the quantity of stock stirred into a risotto, the thought of using store-bought stuff is beyond nasty. It's apostasy. I'm sure its a felony in Italy, if not grounds for exile. High-end, low-end, cubes: it just tastes bad. Or not good, anyway. I use all that stuff when time is short and the stock is a relatively modest part of a Wednesday night dinner, but I'd rather lick asphalt than have a risotto made with commercial stock. Ewwww.
When we do mushroom risotto, we make a mushroom stock.
Thank you, l'Omo Chi Aspetta. Sometimes even a bluestocking appreciates chivalry.
Hersch, I am sure you meant no offense. It's just that sometimes when we get up on our orange crates to pontificate, we sound a little ridiculous. That plural pronoun is inclusive since I know I get huffy, too, about these trivial little culinary matters.
As for relevant voices, I checked Marcella's original publications first, and in the early 1980s, for a pioneer, it was important to stop Americans from relying on chicken boullion cubes, a staple in the homes I grew up in and in the first Italian kitchens I entered where a "dado di Star" went into everything. Therefore, she publishes a "cucina povera" type of meat broth using chicken bones and leftover scraps as any frugal home cook in Italy would. If you don't have any around, she's fine with your using CANNED broth, an improvement on those gummy, salty cubes. Lidia Matticchio Bastianich started publishing later and tells her readers that a good stock is necessary in her restaurants (she mixes turkey & chicken), but they could use low-sodium chicken broth if they don't make one of the two stock recipes she supplies in
The Italian-American Kitchen, the book in which she tries to present cucina diaspora as more than just red sauce and thick-crust, soupy pizza.
Last night, I finally got around to reading Tom Sietsema's review of Bebo in last week's Sunday magazine.
QUOTE
This is a kitchen that also knows from risotto: the night I ordered it, the creamy-firm grains of carnaroli rice, grown in the chef's native Piemonte and swollen with homemade chicken stock, were joined by diced squash and bites of meat.
When I played wait staff to Fabio Trabocchi's demo at the farmers's market, the stock was not house-made. It came from a restaurant supplier in heavy plastic zip-lock bags. Nonetheless, its flavor came through in a simple regional dish whose pronounced flavors are cheese, stock, lemon zest and cinnamon.