I'll take the atmosphere of Le Refuge over the vast majority of restaurants. Right off one of the busiest intersections in Old Town, it's a relaxed French country bistro where people don't merely eat; they dine.
Pâté de Campagne Maison ($6.95) seemed a bit refined for a homemade version, but our charming server Anne-Claire, whose family owns the restaurant, assured me it is made in-house. I wish they had better bread in the basket, but the pâté itself was fine, served with a few cornichons and a tiny, well-dressed salad.
And speaking of well-dressed salads, entrees here come with the diner's choice of house salad or Caesar salad, and I recommend the Caesar. Much more than an afterthought, it's served as a separate course, with fresh romaine, good homemade croutons, and a light application of dressing, perfectly nuanced with the flavor of anchovies in the background.
I'm a sucker for old-school French cooking, and the
Saumon en Croûte ($16.95) looks exactly like what you see
here. Yes, the fish is overcooked, but the vegetables inside are beautifully julienned, and the Champagne cream sauce is just perfect with the terrific flaky croûte. This charming presentation is what you'd expect to see (and pay for) at L'Auberge Chez François.
While I'd happily return for the salmon, I can't recommend today's
Gigot d'Agneau a l'Ail et au Thym ($14.95), mainly because the leg of lamb was overcooked - we asked for it medium-rare, but I'm pretty sure it's done in a roulade so there isn't much play in the meat. The menu said it's served in a "light garlic sauce," and I'm glad it wasn't a full reduction - it was more of a broth. Like the salmon, it came with very well-executed vegetables - a little piping of squash pureé, and a spoonful of
pommes de terre gratin.
The wines here are a touch pricey by the bottle, but thoughtful and well-chosen, with lots of humble Vins de Pays thrown into the mix. A 2005 Chateau Les Amoureuses Côtes du Rhone (imported by Laurent Givry at Elite Wines) is available for $38.95 a bottle, but also offered by the glass - it paired well with everything on the table, including the salmon.
I know that Le Refuge isn't very trendy, but it's relaxing and civilized, and everyone I saw today was enjoying their lunch. There's a very good reason this restaurant has been here for twenty-four years and is still thriving today.
Cheers,
Rocks.