QUOTE(Biotech @ Aug 29 2005, 08:05 PM)
One series that wasn't so bad was the "cookery" series. It wasn't BH&G, but something like that.
Mexican Cookery by Barbara Hansen, c. 1981 actually isn't all that bad. It's mostly biased to the Yucatan, but is actually pretty authentic. I spend a fair amount of time in Quintana Roo each year and it definitely is very close to the food in both the Yucatan and truy Cozumeleno cooking. Go figure.
Barbara Hansen was the Food Editor of the Los Angeles Times for many years, and has written several very good books. I have the book you are referring to, published in 1980 by HPBooks in Tucson. It was one of the few (other than Diana Kennedy's early work) Mexican cookbooks published in the US before the 1990's that was truly authentic. It has really nice photos, too. I have a 1944 wirebound book--*Elena's Famous Mexican and Spanish Recipes* by Elena Zelayeta (Edited by "A Group of San Francisco Home Economists") Which has a mixture of authentic recipes and others that have been geared to the "gringo palate"--there is a notable absence of chiles in most of them. Elena was a restauranteur in San Francisco who authored several cookbooks. At that time, Mexican food was usually called "Spanish" when it was geared to a gringo clientele- - "Mexican" having quite a negative connotation of peasant food that was inedibly spicy. One of the early Mexican restaurants which opened in Hollywood in the late '20s was called The Spanish Kitchen.
When I helped my elderly parents move, my mother gave me the abovementioned and several other old cookbooks. There's the *Russian Cook Book for American Homes* ©1942 (price $1.00), a fundraiser compilation book published by Russian War Relief, Inc. Recipes are credited to, among others, celebrities like James Beard, Nathan Milstein, Prince Matchabelli, Oscar of the Waldorf, and The Russian Tea Room.
I am also in possession of *Madame Chiang's Chinese Cookbook* ©1941, which has a price of 25 cents on the cover, and absurdly racist illustrations inside. It starts out with twelve different recipes for chop suey. Most of the recipes call for "Vie Tsin" gourmet powder, which I assume is MSG.
Then, there is The *Rokeach Cook Book*, ©1933, which is half in English and half in Yiddish. It is full of ads for Rokeach kosher products, like *Nyafat*--"Foods prepared with NYAFAT are easier to digest and cause no heartburn" the ad copy promises. All of the recipes call for Rokeach products, naturally. The section of meat dishes has recipes for sweetbreads, smothered tongue, and calf brain croquettes, as well as "Leftover Meat #1" and "Leftover Meat #2" -- very little in the way of seasoning in any of the recipes except for onion and paprika.
My MIL gave me an undated cookbook that came with her set of Guardian cast aluminum cookware, which she bought in the mid-1940's. Wonderful color illustrations and photos, and clearly written by very earnest nutritionist-home economists. It is relentlessly middle American--not a smidgen of garlic in anything. The section about salads is all for molded gelatine salads, of course. The chapter heading is: "Salads That Will Inveigle the Family Into Their Full Vitamin Quota." Mmm. Delectable!