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Tampa, FL


CitrineDC

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"I think I'll have the hamburger with peanut butter, marshmallow fluff and fancy sauce." These words came out of my mouth--but not to our waitress. I said this to my dinner companion, who immediately tossed a big, soggy blanket onto my sense of adventure.

We were dining at The Refinery,  a casual, comfort food restaurant in Tampa. We chose this place because it and its chef, Greg Baker, have garnered much acclaim. The James Beard Foundation named The Refinery as a semi-finalist for Best New Restaurant in 2011, and named Baker as a semi-finalist for Best Chef South in 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016. 

The atmosphere was fun and laid back, our waitress was delightful, and the local beer selection was good. Sipping a smooth, cold brown ale, I read each burger description, doing a double take on the peanut butter one.

When I first saw this dish, called "The Refined," I thought, "that can't be good." But when it comes to dining out, I love to try new and different things. This menu item fit my criteria for ordering things I have never seen before and likely won't see again.

So when our charming waitress came by, I asked her what she thought of the dish. She highly recommended it, as well as "The House" burger, which was the only other thing I was considering. "Is fancy sauce ketcup and mayo?" I asked. She seemed surprised that I knew, not realizing that "Step Brothers" is the favorite film of my two adult children, and that I have seen Will Ferrell and John C. Riley try to make their own bunk beds at least a half a dozen times.

My eyes lit up. "She says it is good!" I told my friend. He gave me a knowing look that said, "go ahead, but you will regret this." With my wild hair plucked, I ordered "The House," a burger with tomato jam, house bacon and white cheddar. I got the garlic aioli on the side. For an additional charge, I upgraded to organic, grassfed beef.

There was nothing wrong with "The House." It was a perfectly acceptable burger. There also was nothing about the dish that stands out in my mind. The bacon was good, the beef was average, the tomato jam was okay, and the brioche bun was subpar.

My dinner companion ordered the stuffed roasted pork shoulder. He enjoyed it, and offered me a taste. It was better than the burger, but still nothing that I would remember long after the meal.

Before our main courses, we split an order of little neck clams. This was an inventive dish, and it worked on some levels. There was bok choy, smoked tahini, butternut squash, mustard greens, salsa verde, a poached egg and six small clams. The flavors were okay, but oddly matched. For me, there was too much going on in the dish and not enough clams.

As our meal continued, more diners arrived. There were several large groups celebrating together. "The Refinery" seems like a fun place to gather with friends for drinks, and perhaps a casual meal. It is not a place I would seek out for a wonderful dining experience. I likely would stop by for a drink and then dine elsewhere.

But if you go to "The Refinery" and you are feeling overwhelmed with a sense of adventure, please try the marshmallow and peanut butter burger with fancy sauce and report back here. I am dying to know how it tastes.

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