Radice, Chef Donna Ewanciw's Rustic Italian Cooking in Village Square in Blue Bell

[zoramargolis]

There must be a setting as well as a table in the D. C. area that compares to the Birchrunville Store Cafe. Unfortunately we haven't found it.

Joe, it seems like you've found the reincarnation of the mysterious great restaurant somewhere in the boonies in New Jersey that no one else could find, that John McFee wrote about in The New Yorker years ago. Many came to believe that McFee made most of it up, but surely you've brought back a menu or matchbook--something tangible to prove that this place exists in more than a fever dream.

Last weekend, we ate at a pleasant place called Radice in Blue Bell, not far from the retirement community where my MIL lives, in Gwynedd. I thought the mains were overpriced, but we were fine with a pizza for the table and small plates to follow. I had roasted sweetbreads, which were tasty but not anywhere in the league of Bibiana's hay-smoked version. And a braised octopus dish which was a good stand-in for the seafood stew I wanted but passed on due to the price. My vegetarian BIL was happy with his roasted artichoke, leek and potato gratin and his eggplant parmigiana, and J. had an unusual dish of breaded scallop cakes. I don't think I've ever eaten scallops that way (minced, seasoned, formed into a patty, rolled in crumbs and fried).