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Pitmasters Back Alley BBQ by Wagshal's - in The Yuma Street Alley Behind Wagshal's


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Well this is interesting, and oddly-below-the-radar news. Got an email today with an update that the Fuchs family, Pam the Butcher and company will be opening DC's next BBQ spot next month. This expansion will be under the auspices of one of the Fuchs sons, Brian. I say "oddly" because it doesn't seem to have much publicity yet. Only after a few minutes of searching did I even find the placeholder website though no doubt all the other online and offline media types will cover this more in the weeks to come.

Not many specifics yet but, as a longtime Wagshal's fan, I'm really looking forward to this!

From the letter in Bill Fuch's email:

"This is a big year for us, we're celebrating our 90th anniversary and we're opening Pitmasters Back Alley BBQ in the beginning of March. A BBQ restaurant concept that we have been working hard at for the last couple of years. We can't wait for everyone to try this amazing BBQ."

PitMastersBackAlleyBBQ.com

Some info on Brian's Twitterfeed here:

@BrianFuchs

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Pitmasters is a very promising new entrant to a revived BBQ scene in the DC area. We were able to try it this past (their first) week. Lots of things to like including:

- It's "by Wagshal's" and that's a good thing given the consistent focus on quality foods Wagshal's has had for the better part of a centrury.

- All of the meats used are chosen and procured from "Pam the Butcher".

- Sides are generally fresh and better than the norm with an interesting mac&cheese, uber-fresh collard greens, tasty fresh cornbread which isn't overly sweet and a few freebies they include with orders like sauces made from scratch and a mango slaw.

- Packaging is very professional and practical. Main orders are baked in a special, vented, white cardboard box with a big Pitmasters logo stamped on top. Sides are portioned generously with no difference if chosen as the one included with a main or a la cart. They come in thoughtfully chosen, sturdy, plastic containers. Our ribs came wrapped in foil for reheating and rested on a couple of slices of white bread. Also, they include a very detailed and comprehensive page with dish-specific reheating instructions.

- The half rack of ribs they sell is St. Louis style with a dry rub (this maybe a bit similar to the rubs used elsewhere) and is more than enough for one person with normal appetite and the sides. These are big, very meaty, ribs.

- The people there couldn't have been nicer.

Opportunities

I use the term opportunities rather than something more critical simply because it was their first week so clearly they'll be working to improve and refine many things.

- The rub was a bit assertive, fairly typical, and maybe even a tad distracting. Others may disagree with this but I'd like to see them do something different here better befitting the great meats they use.

- No seating. This may be a deal breaker for some who aren't in the area on a given day. Currently, this is only a dinnertime carry out and delivery place with no dining room or tables. Delivery only to the 20016 zip code so real neighborhood focus there.

- We both loved the collards but didn't detect a trace of vinegar in them. More like wilted, freshly sautéed greens with a bit of onion than what is normally served at BBQ joints. Still, very good but more seasoning/flavor will probably make these more popular.

Overall, we enjoyed it and will absolutely be back. And, fairly priced given the generous portions and quality food.

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I was told at Wagshal's that for now it is *only* a delivery service (to 20016), and not yet a carry-out.  Is this wrong?

Pitmasters is a very promising new entrant to a revived BBQ scene in the DC area. We were able to try it this past (their first) week. Lots of things to like including:

- No seating. This may be a deal breaker for some who aren't in the area on a given day. Currently, this is only a dinnertime carry out and delivery place with no dining room or tables. Delivery only to the 20016 zip code so real neighborhood focus there.

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I was told at Wagshal's that for now it is *only* a delivery service (to 20016), and not yet a carry-out.  Is this wrong?

This is true but temporary. The website promotes delivery or take out but the take out part won't begin until week after next or thereabouts. There may also be a little flexibility on the 20016 restriction if you're close to that and ask very nicely...and there's not a snow storm going on. :-)

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Just took a look at the menu. Anybody know what "mother in law" is?

I can at least help narrow it to two possibilities. One thing cool about Pitmasters is the professional packaging and generous portioning. Aside from portions being large, we got a few extras with our order a couple of weeks ago that I think are standard.

Mother In Law was either a ) a sauce we didn't try or b ) a slaw with mango which, like other sides, was fresh and quite good. I asked the same question when we ordered and now can't remember what we were told. Not that helpful, Sorry.

Actually, reminding myself by checking the online menu, I'm near certain it's b ), since available as a $5.99 side and as an alternative to the apple slaw. If choosing between them, go with the MiL. Better and you won't incur the wrath of whoever "Chef Trini" is.

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I wanted to share an update now that we've had a chance to try carry out versus delivery.

First, the storefront is a little tough to find until they get a clear sign up. Located in the alley directly behind the small Wagshal's shopping plaza, the entrance is on the east side beneath a large green canopy that says "Apex." Toward the right, but still under that green overhang, is an industrial door with only a small pig graphic on it and no text. That's it and, as soon as you open the door, it's more obvious you're in the right place as it's nicely and appropriately appointed inside.

Still on the space, they actually have a fair bit of square footage but it's mostly dedicated to prep areas, the smoker, warmers, service area for the staff and a longer corridor through which you enter. There is a small customer area with a large bench for waiting and a single small two top not for dining. They are planning some kind of outdoor seating that may be for customers of the deli and market as well as Pitmasters but sounds like that may be at least a month away. This will be important, I think. Some will criticize any 'q that isn't consumable where made. That said, while I wouldn't be among them, I do think figuring out a few or several tables down the road would be a good thing.

This is a modern and novel take on a classic yet regionalized American cuisine. Tim Carman's oddly mixed review about the Union Market BBQ Joint (Tim evidently takes off points if it's not Texas style) mentioned that Andrew Evans' BBQ doesn't conform to any one style whether Carolina, Texas, Tennessee or wherever. I think that description better suits Pitmasters than it does Evans' fabulous food.

We tried a few new (to us) things this time including:

- the "Carolina Chopped Pork Shoulder Sandwich." This is indeed chopped versus pulled. And, the vinegary sauce with which it is made is the obvious nod to Carolina. The chopped bits probably average about 3/8" cubed. Piled generously on a good but large and soft potato bun, this makes for a messy, difficult-to-handle sandwich. Getting past the differences with other versions, this had excellent flavor and we enjoyed it.

- "Sidewinders (fries)" Like everything here, the quality of the ingredients, seasonings and preparation all evidence the quality for which the small company is known. That said, everyone has different preferences here and we didn't love these. The seasoning was nice but the thicker, medallion cut makes for bigger, heavier potatoes tough to crisp well.

- "Collards" We had these our first time and evidently other customers felt as we did. Namely that they seemed more quality, fresh, stir-fried greens than recognizable as southern collards. To their credit, they responded to feedback by upping the seasoning in a sort of flourless pork dropping "roux" and braising them with more bacony bits. We liked this improved version more though still getting used to the flavor profile without vinegar.

- Key Lime Pie. I asked and they confirmed they squeeze genuine key limes (versus the more prevalent and somewhat similar Persian limes) to make this fluffy, nearly pure-white version topped with fresh whipped cream. The other non-traditional aspect was the pile of white chocolate shavings on top, which we just scraped off. The pie sits in a thin crust I think is grahm cracker but that flavor didn't pop so much with the tall pie and cream above it. I'm more a traditionalist on this dish. The Pitmasters take is of high quality and tasty but Msgr. Landrum's version would get my vote easily in a head to head contest.

Pitmasters uses great ingredients and a lot of care with the food and packaging. It's novel without being experimental or odd. It's honest and clean if a bit restrained. And, it will surely continue to evolve. We'll be back.

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