Bonny Doon Vineyards

[Joe Riley]

So my thread about the Bonny Doon wine dinner with Randall Grahm is with the Chef Geoff's thread now, but I wanted to expound upon these wines a bit.

I've heard criticism of Bonny Doon Vineyards (and the various projects under their umbrella) for years, as Randall Grahm bravely went outside the lines of established California wine varietals to craft his singular vision for what California was also capable of growing. Some of this criticism also involved their eye-catching labels and marketing strategies. In their defense, I have to say that the labels may get people to buy the wines, but unless the wines deliver the goods, then they will not get repeat business.

From their early beginnings as a cult-ish winery with a devoted following, they are now a fairly large (over 100,000 cases per year) winery, with an even MORE devoted and loyal following.

I can't do a better job describing the wines they sell better than Randall can. On their website, www.BonnyDoonVineyards.com you can immerse yourself in an interesting wine education.

I'm a fan of those Eurodoon wines that they are selling, bringing in wines from Italy and France, also.

I'll try to post some impressions of each wine individually as soon as I can.

[dmwine]

Well said, Joe - I'm a fan too. Unfortunately I was unable to meet with Grahm on this rare DC visit, but I've loved his wines for years, as well as his sense of humor and iconoclasm.

Is that a word?

He makes arguably the best US rose; his Malvasia bianca "Big House White" is phenomenal, as is the Red; Le Cigare Volant is still near the top of Rhone Ranger lists; and he's always coming out with something new, including a sparkling red that beautifully mimics the low-alcohol, slightly fizzy reds Italy sometimes comes out with.

And his newsletters are a trip. Did you ask him what he smokes when he's writing?

[Joe Riley]

And his newsletters are a trip. Did you ask him what he smokes when he's writing?

Ha! No, I think Randall is on a perpetual phenolic acid trip

Exciting things are afoot in Doon-town. Will post as soon as I can.

[Waitman]

here,

Well said, Joe - I'm a fan too. Unfortunately I was unable to meet with Grahm on this rare DC visit, but I've loved his wines for years, as well as his sense of humor and iconoclasm.

Is that a word? 

He makes arguably the best US rose; his Malvasia bianca "Big House White" is phenomenal, as is the Red; Le Cigare Volant is still near the top of Rhone Ranger lists; and he's always coming out with something new, including a sparkling red that beautifully mimics the low-alcohol, slightly fizzy reds Italy sometimes comes out with.

And his newsletters are a trip. Did you ask him what he smokes when he's writing?

Not just the newsletters. We have a poster for a release called "Grenache Village" featuring Steadman drawing of "a Basque on his ass [donky] riding through a neigborhood in which a Spanish Village is surrounded by skyscrapers, and a poem called "Howlbarino."

"I saw the best palates of my

generation deranged by

short-chain tannins,

recoiling embittered in astringent rictus..."

and on for another 40 verses or so

"who were compelled to re-

schedule their appontments

with the laguid Dr. Sax

"who welcomed the atterissages

of extraterrestrial objects

with sauce eyes"

True believers should consider signing up for the Distinctive Esoteric Wine Network here. Sublime and ridiculous stuff "not available in stores" delivered every other month. Even if you don't like the wine, the labels are cool as hell.

[brr]

I like the Big House Red - great everyday wine

[Joe Riley]

Okay, at the risk of plagiarizing myself, here's my first report:

Domaine des Blagueurs Syrah 2003 , the Eurodoon import from Minervois of Bonny Doon Vineyards: http://www.bonnydoonvineyard.com/wine/view/112

This is a French wine with some Bonny Doon attitude - white pepper, anise and cassis flavors here.

It is, indeed, something of a steal. For $11, there are few reds this exciting in our store. Labels and hyperbole aside, this is damned interesting stuff, and it is excellent Syrah, as opposed to some pretenders to the name that I've tried recently.

I could quickly get used to a wine like this. If Crozes-Hermitage or St. Joseph are beyond your budget these days, then this is not only a great substitute, it is a solid wine value all on its own.

Highly recommended here.

[dcdavidm]

Okay, at the risk of plagiarizing myself, here's my first report:

Domaine des Blagueurs Syrah 2003 , the Eurodoon import from Minervois of Bonny Doon Vineyards: http://www.bonnydoonvineyard.com/wine/view/112

This is a French wine with some Bonny Doon attitude - white pepper, anise and cassis flavors here.

It is, indeed, something of a steal.  For $11, there are few reds this exciting in our store.  Labels and hyperbole aside, this is damned interesting stuff, and it is excellent Syrah, as opposed to some pretenders to the name that I've tried recently.

I could quickly get used to a wine like this.  If Crozes-Hermitage or St. Joseph are beyond your budget these days, then this is not only a great substitute, it is a solid wine value all on its own.

Highly recommended here.

Ah, what a coincidence that I should come home from work today, twist open the convenient screwtop on the bottle of Domaine des Blagueurs that Joe sold me on Saturday, grab a hunk of cheese from the fridge, fire up the computer, and see his review.

It is, truly, a good wine at a terrific price. The color is incredibly dense; the aroma fresh and inviting; the flavors surprisingly complex for the price, with a slight tannic finish. It is not a subtle wine, and it probably would go well with a variety of meat and pasta dishes. It puts other similarly-priced syrahs to shame--especially the overweight Australians and the pretentious Californians. Thanks, Joe, for recommending it.

[Joe Riley]

Ah, what a coincidence that I should come home from work today, twist open the convenient screwtop on the bottle of Domaine des Blagueurs that Joe sold me on Saturday, grab a hunk of cheese from the fridge, fire up the computer, and see his review.

It is, truly, a good wine at a terrific price. The color is incredibly dense; the aroma fresh and inviting; the flavors surprisingly complex for the price, with a slight tannic finish. It is not a subtle wine, and it probably would go well with a variety of meat and pasta dishes. It puts other similarly-priced syrahs to shame--especially the overweight Australians and the pretentious Californians. Thanks, Joe, for recommending it.

My pleasure, Dave - this is what makes me happiest in my job, selling wines that I find interesting to folks who then find them as interesting as I do. I'm so glad that you enjoyed it!

[Joe Riley]

(From Decanter.com)

Bonny Doon sells off Big House, Cardinal Zin

August 2, 2006

Oliver Styles

Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon vineyards has sold off two brands to wine giant The Wine Group.

As part of Grahm's self-styled 'doon-sizing', the Big House and Cardinal Zin names were sold to the group earlier this week for an undisclosed sum. The deal includes the takeover of all branches of the wines from grape suppliers to logos.

Grahm told decanter.com he intends to buy or lease vineyards which will be planted to Rhone varietals - which will go into the much-lauded Cigare Volant - and Pinot Noir.

The former will be about 30ha, the latter around 8ha. Making Pinot will be a new departure for the Europhile winemaker. He loves Burgundy, he said, and 'if the wine I make can express a sense of place, I will feel I have succeeded.'

All Grahm's other wines, including Cigare Volant, will remain under his control. The Santa-Cruz based winemaker, known for his sense of humour, could not resist making a joke of the sale.

'I had envisioned a catchy headline like “Big House brand escapes the shackles of the tyranny of terroirism”, but I thought better of it' he said. 'We've been joking around for so long, it is hard for people to know when we are serious.'

Grahm said the Big House and Cardinal Zin brands had been so popular that company resources had been stretched 'to the max'.

'We are not so much downsizing as doon-sizing,' he said, 'creating a company that is more congruent with our deepest values.' The Santa Cruz winery, at present bottling around 400,000 cases, may be superseded by a new, smaller winery on the new site.

'We are shrinking all round,' Grahm said. 'I want to make the operation more distinctive, and get to the point where I can make wines with uniqueness and distinction.'

The Wine Group LLC, based in San Francisco, is the third-largest wine producer in the US after E&J Gallo Winery and Constellation Brands. It sells over 40m cases of wine a year and owns brands including Franzia, Concannon and Corbett Canyon.

The two Bonny Doon brands will be made under the Underdog Wine Merchants division which includes the Pinot Evil, Herding Cats, Angel Juice and Devil's Marbles brands.

[Cooter]

Interesting. I haven't been a fan of the Big House Red or Big House White for a few years, but I love love love the Big House Pink.

[Joe Riley]

Interesting. I haven't been a fan of the Big House Red or Big House White for a few years, but I love love love the Big House Pink.

It's in stock and ready to sell *Cough!* *Cough!*

[Venerable Bede]

i was more saddened to read that they are discontinuing their muscat vin de glaciere

[dmwine]

I interviewed Randall Grahm recently at his office in Santa Cruz. He spoke at length about his decision to sell off Big House and (probably) discontinue the Ca' del Solo line altogether. My article is here.

[Joe Riley]

In the meantime, I’ll buy as much Big House as I can, because without Randall Grahm, it’s just

another brand.

Nail. Head.

"Big House" was funny on several levels when it first debuted:

1) The grapes for Ca'Del Solo "Big House Red" were grown within site of Soledad Men's Correctional Institute, hence the "Big House" designation. Randall said that if this venture didn't pan out, then he didn't have far to go

2) "Ca' Del Solo", literally translated into english as "House of the solitary man". Randall was single at the time, it also implied solitary confinement - the prison theme again.

Randall had just recently dropped the whole "Ca' Del Solo" designation on the Big House wines, and once it is sold, then it will lose the spirit behind it. It may continue to be decent wine, but it won't be the SAME.

After reading the interview, I'm under the impression that Randall is feeling artistically incomplete.

If any of you have seen the wonderful film, "Topsy-Turvy", this situation reminds me of the scenes in the movie (which followed W.S. Gilbert and Sir Arthur Sullivan's professional lives just before and including the creation of "The Mikado") where Sullivan is attempting to dissolve his partnership with Gilbert because he feels that he is wasting his time on such trifles as these little operettas, and he longs to write the Grand Opera that he is so convinced is in him somewhere, dying to get written.

I'm perfectly willing to believe that Randall has more winemaking greatness yet to be demonstrated. I look forward to these forthcoming wines with great eagerness.

[cjsadler]

News

[Joe Riley]

News

Yes, this is excellent news. I'd spoken with Randall about this when he was here in March, and I'm all for it. We had discussions about cloud cover, which brought to mind that scene in "The Aviator" where a young Howard Hughes is trying desperately to find a could-filled sky to give dimension to his WWI flying epic "Hell's Angels", and after months of sweet weather, his Stanford University-meteorologist-employee comes running towards him shouting, "Mr. Hughes! Mur. Hughes! OAKLAND! We have clouds in OAKLAND!" I can just see Randall in eastern Washington, standing in a vineyard shouting, "Where are my clouds, damnit?!?"

[Joe Riley]

News here: http://www.decanter.com/news/171267.html

Bonny Doon goes for full label disclosure

December 28, 2007

David Furer

Bonny Doon Vineyard labels will disclose all wine ingredients on white and red wines beginning with vintage 2007.

From these February 2008 releases all ingredients will be listed in two sections on the back label of each bottle.

The first section will list the wine's basic ingredients - grapes and sulphur dioxide - while the second will display production ingredients which are aren't perceptible in the wine nor directly affect its taste.

'It's useful to provide more detailed information about the ingredients used in wine production and reduce our dependence on standard wine additions, even those considered to be benign such as tartaric acid, bentonite, yeast nutrients, enzymes, sulphur dioxide,' Bonny Doon president Randall Grahm said.

Bonny Doon is working towards producing simpler and less technically manipulated wines, Grahm said. The first wines featuring the new ingredient labeling will be the Ca' del Solo Albariño and Ca' del Solo Muscat, both certified by Demeter, a biodynamic growers' organization.

'Lest it appear self-righteous,' Grahm added, 'one should bear in mind that we are still somewhat reliant on wine additions that, in a perfect world, we would minimize or not use at all.'

Grahm said the move is intended primarily as an internal discipline, but he said he considers it 'a positive step for the industry'.

'We do hope other winemakers will be encouraged to adopt less interventionist practices and rely less upon an alphabet soup of additives to “improve” their wines.'

More than 200 additives to wine are allowed by the US government.

It would appear that Randall Grahm remains one of the true pioneers in California winegrowing, forever challenging his collegues to strive for better winegrowing and sales practices.