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Everything posted by TrelayneNYC

  1. I subscribe to the Chronicle and the no-stars thing feels like a cop-out to me. We'll see how long it lasts. Every review is a judgment made by the author regardless of the metrics used in the assessment, and "we're not using stars" is kind of ironic given that she's being paid to provide her informed opinion. You'll probably want to read Corey Lee (Benu) on IG:
  2. Yeah. Well, when I click on the link, nothing shows on my screen.
  3. It doesn't look like the SF Chronicle's new restaurant critic likes Chez Panisse. Or maybe, she just doesn't get it. The reason why I love the restaurant is precisely because of the simplicity of its food and the lack of ambition. https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/The-fantasy-and-reality-of-dining-at-Chez-13650410.php
  4. We had lunch here today and as usual, a wonderful time was had by all. Fried oysters, cabbage, tartar sauce Miso black cod with cucumber pickles Silken tofu with pickled wasabi leaf and salmon roe Squid with Japanese mustard spinach and turnips in a mustard-miso sauce Mabodofu-don (spicy tofu with minced pork over Japanese rice). At right is a bowl of miso soup with shimeji mushrooms and razor clams. At top left are pickled watermelon radish and pickled carrots. Same lunch set along with a bowl of katsu-don (fried chicken with egg and sweet dashi over Japanese rice). Hōjicha panna cotta, served with a miniature pitcher of hōjicha syrup and sesame cookies. Hōjicha is a Japanese green tea and is distinctive from other Japanese green teas because it is roasted in a porcelain pot over charcoal, whereas most Japanese teas are steamed. Total bill came out to $120 for two people. Very reasonable for the quality of food served.
  5. Tonight was vegan night at Casa TrelayneNYC and I'm snacking on some chilled diced pineapple as I type this... The first two pictures are approx. 1 kg of wild and cultivated mushrooms. The first bowl contains black pearl oyster mushrooms and baby shiitake mushrooms, and the bowl in the bottom picture has yellowfoot chanterelle mushrooms. Clockwise from bottom left: porcini broth; yellowfoot mushrooms; baby shiitake mushrooms; black pearl oyster mushrooms; thyme leaves; red pepper flakes; sage leaves; flour; tomato paste; garlic paste (3 garlic cloves, smashed and pounded into a paste in a mortar and pestle along with a pinch of salt); diced onion; olive oil. The porcini broth consists of 10 g dried porcini mushrooms combined with 150 g diced onion, 100 g diced celery, 60 g diced carrots, 1 bay leaf and 710 ml water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, for 20-25 minutes. Strain liquid into a small saucepot and keep on another burner, on low heat. You can smash the garlic cloves into a paste using the tines of a fork, or pound them in a mortar and pestle. It'll become something like this after a few minutes. Porcini broth. Leave this unseasoned since you'll be using it later on. Warm olive oil in a pan, then fry onions until browned. Season with salt and pepper, then transfer onions to a small bowl. Add mushrooms to the pan. Cook until the mushrooms begin to exude some liquid. Eventually they'll reabsorb the juices and begin to brown. At that point, add the garlic paste and herbs to the pan. Stir them in and cook for a minute. Reduce heat to medium. Add the onions back to the pan. Stir in the tomato paste. Fry for a minute, then stir in the flour. Cook for one more minute, then add in the porcini broth, a ladleful at a time. Cook until ragu reaches your desired consistency. Taste for salt and pepper, stir in some chopped parsley, then serve at once. Curly endive salad with orange and oil-cured black olives Wild mushroom ragù, served over pearl barley and pigeon peas
  6. If you're a vegetarian, you're probably going to want to skip this post. Every year, B and I invite our friends over for a dinner party the night the Oscars are held. This year, I decided to make pernil asado, inspired by a lunch I had at my firm's offices in Silicon Valley. That meal was so delicious that I *had* to learn how to replicate it at home. Pernil asado con mojo Arroz con gandules Green salad, house vinaigrette Sugar-free deep dark chocolate ice cream Blackberry-lime pie, whipped cream The ice cream was homemade and the pie from Whole Paycheck. (I decided to take a break from baking this weekend.) The sofrito for the arroz con gandules (for non-Spanish speakers, that's rice with pigeon peas) was decidedly non-traditional. Clockwise from left: minced onion; minced onion and garlic; minced green pepper; minced cilantro; minced celery. Not shown is 1 tablespoon lard melting in a pan. I ultimately decided to omit the cilantro in the sofrito. Essentially you're sweating the vegetables until they've softened, a process that will take about 20-25 minutes. Salt and pepper at the end. 710 ml chicken stock 85 g minced cilantro 120 g sofrito a pinch of saffron 14 g dried oregano 822 g canned pigeon peas 1 large onion, chopped 120 g pitted green and black olives 85 g bacon, diced 30 g tomato paste 350 g rice You can view the recipe here, and the above ingredient list has changed a bit from the original but the process is the same: https://www.saveur.com/…/Arroz-con-Gandules-Rice-and-Pigeon… Not shown is a Dutch oven with 1 tbsp. (12 g) lard which I substituted for the canola oil in the Saveur recipe. This is about 12 lbs. (a little over 5.5 kg) pork shoulder with skin and bone. We roasted it at 200 F(93 C) for 11 hours. Recipe is here: https://afoodobsessionblog.wordpress.com/2014/07/31/pernil-borinquen-a-slow-cooked-puerto-rican-pork-roast/?fbclid=IwAR1bRSsX3VyFd24q0sMdHWPsTRrAkYhCaYbuCn8Xyi5OjnvRFhaC2j_hcSM To go along with this, we made some mojo: 28 g dried oregano 28 g ground cumin 60 garlic cloves, chopped 940 ml orange juice 940 ml lime juice salt, to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste We're definitely making it again. For sure.
  7. Scarola affogata on the side. Better known as braised escarole. 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil6 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled1/2 kg escarole, washed, trimmed and coarsely chopped a generous pinch of salt a generous pinch of crushed red pepper flakes Warm olive oil in a pot or Dutch oven, add garlic and fry garlic over medium heat until browned. The escarole is added raw to the pot, seasoned with salt and red pepper flakes, then covered and braised for 10-15 minutes or until tender.
  8. meant to post this earlier this week this is a Sicilian recipe and the flavors are better the next day Polpette di pollo e ricotta e limone 300 g ground chicken 200 g ricotta grated zest from 1 Meyer lemon 60 g breadcrumbs 50 g Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated a pinch of dried oregano 1 egg, lightly beaten salt freshly ground pepper 6 tbsp. olive oil 1 garlic clove, crushed 300 ml pinot grigio 1 tbsp. chopped Italian parsley Warm olive oil in a pan, then add the crushed garlic clove. Fry garlic on medium-low heat until fragrant. Lift out and discard garlic. Add meatballs, a batch at a time. The meatballs were fried in olive oil until browned on all sides. Then they were braised in pinot grigio until cooked through. Parsley to finish. Enough for 4. You can cook them in broth or in tomato sauce, but I happen to like pinot grigio because it really accentuates the lemon.
  9. Thanks The prep bowls are like $1-$2 a piece from I don't remember where it's located. Some place in Outer Richmond. You can get them at Bed, Bath & Beyond for much more, I imagine.
  10. Thanks Pat. So it seems that the recipe I used called for boneless pork shoulder and the texture was off. Was good but it could be better...which means there will be roast pork part the second sometime soon. Last week we had bucatini con le sarde 1/2 kg fennel, diced salt, to taste 1 medium onion, diced 70 g raisins 35 g pine nuts 6 oil-packed anchovies, finely chopped extra-virgin olive oil freshly ground black pepper, to taste 3 threads saffron 1/2 kg fresh sardines, filleted cooked bucatini 35 g breadcrumbs toasted in olive oil (optional) 8 g sugar (optional)
  11. Cuban-style roast pork Black beans with pancetta, mojo and herbs Steamed rice Oranges for dessert
  12. Cime di rapa soffritte. Recipe is in the "Osteria" book, page 304. I've depicted the cover in the event there is interest. Quantities in the list below have been converted to metric from the amounts in the book. The technique for this recipe is different from the way I usually cook greens and it's something I'll probably replicate for other vegetables going forward. The stalks and leaves were extremely tender, just the way I like them. 2 cloves garlic, crushed 4 tbsp. olive oil 1 kg broccoli rabe, roughly chopped 4 tbsp. water salt
  13. Lenticchie in umido 950 ml water 400 g lentils 1 clove garlic, crushed 2 celery ribs, chopped salt extra-virgin olive oil Combine first four ingredients in a large pot. Bring this mixture to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer for 45 minutes or until lentils are tender. Either partly cover the pot or cook uncovered. If the latter, you may have to add small amounts of boiling water every so often to prevent the lentils from drying out. Don't forget to stir the lentils every so often. Once the lentils are done, taste for salt. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil, then serve at once.
  14. Pasta al pollo scappato. 1 medium onion, minced 1 carrot, peeled and minced 1 celery rib, minced 1 garlic clove, minced 120 ml olive oil 60 ml red wine 1 tbsp. tomato paste salt freshly ground black pepper cooked pasta
  15. Unfortunately the food at Lucques didn't exactly rise to the occasion. You would think otherwise, especially since I'm a fan of farm-to-table. Well, that's true except that I don't like farm-to-table-and-the-kitchen-sink. Ricotta gnocchi, leeks, pancetta. This bowl of food had three other ingredients which completely obliterated the delicacy of the gnocchi - Parmigiano, mustard greens and almonds. Slow-roasted pork, cornbread-chorizo stuffing, romesco, quince, marcona almonds. For those of you don't know me well, I prefer dishes that don't feature a kitchen sink's worth of ingredients in order to convey a chef's point of view. I would have been happy with two of four accompaniments and the pork. Oh well - this was merely "fine". The plating sucked though. Halva phyllo cake, yogurt whipped cream, pistachio brittle ice cream. One thing I'm noticing - Suzanne Goin (or perhaps her chefs) are fans of nuts. Three of nine main courses featured nuts (hazelnuts with sea bass; pine nuts with swordfish; and almonds with pork); two of six appetizers (walnuts in an apple salad, and the aforementioned ricotta gnocchi had almonds). And she has a plate of olives and almonds served with the bread. It makes for a rather boring palette, no? Oh, you want to know about the dessert. It was just "ok". Grapefruit vacherin, crème fraîche ice cream, grapefruit sorbet and meringue. Sorbet was refreshing, ditto for the fruit sauce. Presentation left a bit to be desired. Unfortunately the lighting in the restaurant was extremely dim so my photos of B's dishes didn't come out as good. But you get the idea anyway: charitably speaking, Lucques is a wonderful restaurant....if the year was 2006.
  16. My hubby and I were in LA for a few days this past week. Most meals were disappointing including a dinner at Lucques (more on that later). If you're in the City of Angels, you need to eat at Revolutionario North African Tacos. We had lunch there Wednesday afternoon after our studio tour at Paramount, and that was the best meal we had the pleasure of experiencing during our L.A. vacation. I wish I could eat my way through their menu; it's that good. Pickled vegetables and kimchi. Chicken tagine, preserved lemon, olives. Pozole tagine. The spices were doing somersaults in B's mouth. I'm getting hungry just typing this. Plantains and mojo. Oh, man! I wish there was a branch in San Francisco but that's not going to happen in my lifetime. Revolutionario North African Tacos 1436 West Jefferson Blvd. (Raymond Avenue) Jefferson Park Full disclosure - I'm friends with one of the co-owners and know both of the owners via several Internet food fora.
  17. For a change of pace and this is something I like to make every so often: Polpette in bianco 1/4 kg ground beef1/2 kg ground pork25 g fresh breadcrumbs 30 g grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 2 heaping tbsp. minced Italian parsley + extra for garnish 2 eggs salt black pepper fine breadcrumbs, for rolling the meatballs 4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 crushed garlic cloves 250 ml pinot grigio Combine beef, pork, fresh breadcrumbs, cheese, parsley and eggs in a large mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper, keeping mind that the cheese is also salty so you might be a little less generous with the salt. Mix well. You might have to use your hands. Shape into meatballs using a teaspoon. Roll the meatballs in the fine breadcrumbs, then set aside. Warm olive oil over medium-low heat in a pan along with some crushed garlic cloves. When the cloves begin to smell aromatic, remove from heat and discard. Add meatballs. Fry until browned on all sides. You may have to work in batches. If so, lift out with a slotted spoon and place on paper towel-lined plates. Once all the meatballs have browned, return to pan or pot, then add wine. Raise heat, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Cover, then braise for 40-45 minutes. Taste for salt, sprinkle with chopped parsley, then serve immediately.
  18. 1/2 kg ground pork1/4 kg ground beef*30 g freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 60 g dried breadcrumbs 120 ml milk 1 large egg 1 heaping tbsp. finely chopped Italian parsley salt black pepper *I used ground chuck as opposed to sirloin. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Mix well. You might have to use your hands. Shape mixture into meatballs using a teaspoon. Place meatballs on a foil- and parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Bake meatballs for 30 minutes at 175 C. Don't forget to turn them over with a fork at least once during this time to ensure even browning. For the sauce: 1 heaping tbsp. lard 2 crushed garlic cloves 800 g crushed tomatoes salt black pepper a couple of sprigs of Italian parsley Melt lard over medium heat. Add garlic cloves. Brown garlic until it smells aromatic, then lift out with a slotted spoon and discard. Add tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Add parsley. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Add meatballs. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low. Partly cover, then braise for 45 minutes. Serve as is or with pasta. We prefer them without pasta - they are a meal unto themselves. PS. If my cooking has changed in 2018, it's probably been a gradual shift to metric measurements.
  19. So it's been a while, right? 1 kg beef1.5 kg onions, finely chopped1 carrot, finely chopped 2 celery stalks, finely chopped 100 g pancetta, dicedpinot grigio 4 tbsp. olive oil 1 tbsp. lard Melt lard, warm olive oil, sauté vegetables in fats over medium-low heat. Season with salt and black pepper. Then add wine, pancetta and beef. Ordinarily la genovese is made with a single cut of beef but you can use stew meat as pictured here. It will still taste good. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and cover. Braise for three hours. Stir every so often and add more liquid - either water or wine as you prefer - if needed. I didn't have to but your experience may be different. After three hours, you'll end up with something like this. If you used a single cut of beef, you can take out the beef and serve that as a separate course. Or shred it and add back to the pot. The onion sauce is served with pasta... ...and since I didn't feel like extra work, elected to toss that with some cooked ziti and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
  20. Omija sorbet, olive oil Sauternes Milk pudding, salted caramel sauce, peat Coconut chiffon cake Salted walnuts, dried persimmons, sweet rice cakes Mint meringues Ginkgo flour cookies We'll be back, for sure. Not every dish has to be amazing. It was a lovely experience overall and that's what really counts in the end.
  21. Left: Pickled crosnes and pearl onion. Right: XO sauce, house-made soy sauce. Barbecued quail from Wolfe Ranch. B remarked that this was "the tastiest and largest quail I've ever eaten in my life". For sure. Quail liver mousse, au jus, black truffles. Black truffle steamed bun. Basically a play on Peking duck - stuff the bun with quail, top with condiments and enjoy. Spicy fermented bean paste with tomato, served with crudités. Asian pear and Napa cabbage kimchi. Kohlrabi kimchi. Chrysanthemum leaf and scallion salad. Grilled veal short ribs, seasoned with sesame seed, perilla seed and pine nuts. Short ribs.
  22. Birthday dinner here tonight and it was worth every penny. Thousand year old quail egg, cabbage juice, ginger. Top - pork belly, oyster and kimchi shooterBottom - marinated mussel, root vegetables Shrimp tempura, jellyfish, seaweed Blood sausage, sweet rice, squid ink, shiso. Ginkgo flour "tortilla", matsutake mushroom, pine needles, 10 year old aged pine syrup. Chicken wing stuffed with abalone and abalone liver mousse. "Shark fin" soup - Dungeness crab, ham, egg white and black truffles. Butter with orange blossom honey and ginseng. Not shown are some sprouted grain rolls. Xiao long bao with lobster coral, house-made soy sauce, vinegar. Sea urchin marinated in fermented crab sauce, with thinly sliced celtuce Monkfish liver steamed in rice wine, with toasted seaweed and chili. Caviar with hand-pressed sesame oil, sesame leaf and daikon. Steamed Japonica rice. I don't remember what the green powder was.
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