Mateo's Cocina Latina in Healdsburg is the realization of a concept I've had in mind for 50+ years: authentic Mexican regional dishes married to classical cooking techniques (the kind of food you might eat at an upscale restaurant in Puebla, Mexico), and imaginative individual touches (the ceviche). The complete menu is at http://www.mateoscocinalatina.com/menus/.
We didn't order an entrée, although I would love to see how they make Cochinita Pibil, which is pork seasoned with achiote (not a chile), wrapped in smoked banana leaves, marinated in sour Seville orange juice (which in my youth were all over Tucson, called "ornamental oranges" and considered inedible!), and buried in a fire pit, or slow-roasted, basting regularly with more juice.
Everything was wonderful. Ceviche was paper thin ellipses of halibut filet, swimming in a complex fruity marinade, nothing like the usual chopped fish; Queso Fundido, a thick fondue of Oaxoca cheese and chile with tiny house-made chorizo meatballs, served with fresh hand-patted corn tortillas (which we've yearned for since leaving LA, 30 years ago) to sop up everything; and an amazing dish called simply "Ribs" "“ two-inch pork ribs (if there was a seasoning, I missed it) deep-fried in lard twice. As addictive as they are politically incorrect. And quite doable at home, I'm betting (have the butcher cut pork ribs in half and use the meaty half).
There are large cases behind the bar for aged tequilas and mescals (machismo demanded I order something with the latter, but aging can't mellow the IMO unpleasant flavor - kind of like arak"¦or maybe turpentine). My wife's house margarita, with agave instead of sugar and a dash of Grand Mariner, was impeccable. Four local beers are on tap, including one from Humboldt County, where we live.
As is increasingly popular, ingredients are locavore when possible. Service is enthusiastic; the staff loves to talk about the food. Prices ranged from $7 to $14. Entrees are ~$24.
