CapitalGourmand

Seeing that there is only one post here, I'm guessing that maybe there wasn't a whole lot of interest in this restaurant. But in the event that anyone was looking to make a visit soon, particularly to see what Raphael Francois' cuisine was all about, it looks like he is leaving for LA just as soon as he's arrived in DC: Eater LA: Bill Chait Blazes LA Comeback Trail With New West Hollywood Restaurant

Sounds like you and Sietsema had the same server. I'll be going at the end of April. One the friends who will be joining me loves this kind of service (me, not so much). So if he's working our table, he can expect a generous tip. I appreciate the detail in your review. After reading about your experience, I'm starting to wish I were going with 4 people instead of (possibly) 6.

Lisa, lamb's brain was not part of the meal. However, we were served small empanadas filled with lamb meat when we did the toast with Kwame. Those may have been filled with tongue.

We really liked the lamb's head. My friend, Mike, asked for the eye while we were in the kitchen. Kwame said, "Sure", plucked it out with a knife and gave it to him. When we were served the Mojo course, Mike's plate had the second eye on it, which he shared with me (my other two friends weren't interested). I really liked it. You're right, most of the meat we were served was from the cheek. It was the only time during the meal that Donna (or anyone, for that matter) had any criticism of the portion sizes.

I was impressed with how the kitchen tour was incorporated not only into the structure of the meal, but the design of the restaurant. I've had some excellent kitchen tours (EMP) and some awful (Grace), and this ranks with the best. The first visit to the kitchen follows the pre-dinner drink at the upstairs bar. We were offered an amuse platter inspired by the hallal carts of New York. We were free to take as many photos as we liked. Kwame stood at the end of the pass with a smile on his face, ready to shake hands and answer questions. Once at the table, we were given the option of either a lamb's head or squab for our main. The lamb's head sounded like the more adventurous of the two, so it was a unanimous decision. When the penultimate moment for this course arrived, we were escorted again to the kitchen where Kwame waited next to a roasting pan with the carcass of a lamb's head, and shots made with jalapeno pepper juice that he would toast with us. This kind of interaction with the chef is rare at any restaurant, so it was welcome. The ultimate question to be answered is of value. At $185 (sans tax and gratuity), Kwame and his business partners are taking a gamble. Only time will tell if it was successful. The first notices have not been completely negative, but we have yet to see a ringing endorsement. And for a restaurant with this asking price, the advocacy of local critics is crucial to its long term prospects. As a whole, I thought it was a respectable if not outstanding meal. With the exception of the excellent squash volute, courses ranged from average to very good. And the foie/pineapple course was a miss for me. I would have to agree with franch here. At this price point, I would expect that nearly every course is special. But this is just my opinion, of course. My friends loved it. Mike even when so far as to say he liked it more than Pineapple and Pearls. I like Mike, so I forgave him for his hyperbole. If this were a diner's first experience with a tasting menu, I could understand if they walked away impressed. But if you've had this sort of experience before, you may not leave with the same response. And that could be a problem, as that's the core audience that Kwame wants to appeal to. These are the diners who are most likely to return. However, one meal here and one may feel as though they got the complete essence of Shaw Bijou without any need to come back. I cannot help but wonder if we would be having a different conversation had Kwame and Kelly decided to take a more measured approach to their debut. A chef with this kind of talent should give himself the best opportunity to succeed. It is my belief that if they started with an a la carte format, we would be talking about DC's next great restaurant. They could have followed a model similar to another former Top Chef contestant, Nick Elmi. His restaurant, Laurel, opened with an a la carte menu and tasting menu option at a relatively affordable price. With time, they were able to convert to a tasting menu only venue because of their great success. I sincerely want to see this restaurant succeed. And I plan to return sometime in the future. In the meanwhile, I hope that if this current format does not work out, they are willing to change course. I would hate to see a chef with Kwame's talent leave DC if the success he wants does not come.

Evaluating my meal at The Shaw Bijou within the first week and a half of its opening is a lot like being assigned to jury duty for a high profile murder case: with all the controversy surrounding a restaurant before it even served its first meal, I wondered if I could be objective. To assist me in my evaluation, I was joined by three friends: Katrina, Donna, and Mike. The name of the restaurant, according to Kwame, is in honor of his mother, Jewel (Bijou being French for "jewel"). But Kwame has also mentioned a second meaning. He envisions this restaurant as being the jewel of DC's burgeoning Shaw district. That's quite ambitious for a first time chef, especially in a neighborhood of such great restaurants. It was an aspiration that preceded Kwame's own involvement in the restaurant. It was clear that before he was brought on board, owner Kelly Gorsuch intended for this to become one of DC's premier fine dining destinations. Since they were very clear about their purpose from the beginning, I can understand why they were taken aback by the criticism of their pricing. Speaking anecdotally, most of those who had any knowledge of this project prior to Kwame's Top Chef appearance were DC's hardcore foodies. It was already questionable that an unknown would attempt to open an ambitious tasting menu only venue. But now with national exposure the stakes were even higher. How would it measure up? To begin, it's some of the best service I've experienced at any restaurant in DC. They were always thinking one step ahead. Two examples: 1. When Donna arrived, she pulled out her phone only to realize just how little power was left. She told us that she didn't have time to charge her phone because she had running errands for most of the day. About 5 minutes later, one of the bartenders appears with a portable phone charger with a USB cord and told her she could keep it at the table until her phone was fully charged. Donna wasn't even talking to them, and didn't even request it. But it was a welcome gesture on their part. 2. At the end of the meal, the captain asked us if we wanted any coffee or tea. They didn't have anything decaffeinated, so we all declined. Katrina wanted hot chocolate, but it wasn't on the menu. As we're waiting for the petit fours to arrive, the captain returns with a tray of hot chocolate and marshmallows. Not just for Katrina, but for all four of us. Katrina and I have been friends for several years and I've experienced this moment with her several time. The response is usually a smile and an apology. The captain decided have a conversation with the pastry chef, and she went to work. To see the staff put in a little extra effort was appreciated. Both of these may seem like rather trivial events. But that is what made the response of the service staff all the more impressive. They could have easily dismissed our issues as minor. But by making our concerns their concerns and going the extra mile, they elevated our dining experience. It was like something out of the Danny Meyer textbook. More than any other meal I've had, the presence of the chef is felt at every single moment, no matter how trivial. This is manifest through the constant "Kwame narrative" that accompanies each dish. Our first introduction to his biography happened while waiting for our table to be prepared. Zack, our excellent bartender, was ready with an anecdote behind "steak and eggs", it's creation during Kwame's time at Per Se, and how it was eventually designated dish of the day, no small accomplishment at a Thomas Keller restaurant. And so it would continue throughout the evening, with the story of Kwame's favorite birthday meal (Fisherman's Pie), an R&D trip in India (Butter Garlic Crab), and his love of New York street food (Hallal Cart). I'm reminded of Pete Wells criticism of EMP when they inaugurated the "New York" tasting menu. Had Kwame and company reserved this ongoing narrative for one or two dishes, it would have given an otherwise standard degustation some depth. But over 14 courses, it starts to loose its power. To be fair, my friends really enjoyed these little memoirs and felt that they gave some structure to the meal. I, on the other had, was neutral. It didn't really add anything to my experience, but it didn't detract from it, either. Continued >>>>>>>

I appreciate the detailed write-up, Justin. I'll post some thoughts about my experience, along with a few pictures, hopefully by the end of this week.

Michelin has released the DC's first Bib Gourmand list. Bad Saint is on the list, so it looks like it won't be getting a star after all. Washington Post Going Out Guide: Michelin announces its first D.C. honors: the Bib Gourmand list of affordable restaurants

The release of the Michelin Guide is about one week away. After reading the predictions above, I thought I would offer my own. Three Stars minibar Two Stars Komi Métier Pineapple and Pearls One Star Rose's Luxury Bad Saint Marcel's Kinship Rasika Masseria The Dabney Little Serow There is always the likelihood that no restaurant in DC will receive three stars. But if there is any restaurant that I think has a chance, it's minibar. Of DC's top-tier dining establishments, it's one that has been around the longest. I'm sure that Michelin inspectors have been vetting DC for a few years now, so they have had many opportunities investigate minibar for consistency. It's for that reason I think Komi could also get three stars. But I think the safer bet is to go with two. I'm confident that Kinship and Rose's Luxury will both receive a star. But evaluating their respective casual counterparts, Métier and Pineapple and Pearls, is tricky because they haven't been open for as long. It is not unprecedented for Michelin to award two stars to a restaurant shortly after it opens (see Grace and 42 Grams). And the meals I had at both restaurants are on par with 2 Michelin star experiences I've had. Over the next year or two, I expect to see at least one of these restaurants (most likely Métier) receive a third star. Bad Saint and Little Serow are arguably the two best Asian restaurants in DC. If only one of these restaurants gets a star, I think it would be Little Serow. But If I'm right and both restaurants are rewarded, I wouldn't count on the lines getting shorter anytime soon. The Dabney is my dark horse pick. Quite frankly, I'm surprised that it hasn't been suggested more often. The reviews on this forum have been mixed from the beginning, though I've noticed more positive reports recently. It's a restaurant that seems to receive higher praise from media outside the city than from locals. Perhaps this will carry over to Michelin appraisal. A couple restaurants that may be conspicuously absent from my predictions: Convivial - I know this makes me an outlier, but I think this restaurant is overrated. I don't think it's bad. Just average. Fiola Mare - I haven't been here yet, so I feel that putting it on my list would accurately reflect my personal experience That said, from all the positive reviews I've seen from critics and foodies alike, I wouldn't be surprised if it were to get one or two stars.

Tickets go on sale Monday for $185 (not including tax, gratuity, or drinks). Comparing that to the cost of tasting menus around the country (and the city), I think it's a fair price for 13 courses. Washington Post Going Out Guide: Dinner at Kwame Onwuachi’s Shaw Bijou will cost $185. That’s without drinks.

It's a deal.

You and I are in the same boat . . .

I was also present at the Philly Wing Fry. I arrived about 45 minutes early (umbrella in hand) just to make sure I was not at the back of the line. My friends and I were all pleased with his cheesesteak interpretation and are looking forward to the opening of Shaw Bijou. I read on one of DC's food blogs (I'm sorry, can't remember which one) that he may at some point turn the Philly Wing Fry into a fast casual concept. This is a story I've been following since it was first announced in April of last year. At that time all that was available was a video of a faceless chef cooking and plating a steak. This was well before his appearance on Top Chef. I was skeptical that a tasting menu restaurant from an unknown could succeed in DC. But seeing the success of Pineapple and Pearls and Metier, not to mention the fame he's garnered from his Top Chef appearance, I think he can do well. And if the reviews that follow are positive, then this could possibly become a destination restaurant. I've read some express concerns about his age and experience. He just turned 26. But that was the age Grant Achatz was when he took over the kitchen at Trio, and we see how things turned out for him. Of course, by that time Achatz had been sous chef at French Laundry for over a year, which brings us to the experience aspect. Onwuachi has never run a professional kitchen. He's been chef de partie at EMP (and I believe Per Se as well), which involves some kind of management. But I'm sure it's a lot different from being sous chef. Still, he ran his own catering business from a young age to pay his way through culinary school, so I'm confident he is not lacking in the management department. The more information that is revealed about The Shaw Bijou, the more excited I become. After adding a pastry chef from the Made Nice restaurant group, this might become DC's answer to EMP. I've dined at the restaurants of other EMP alum, and it's always been a memorable experience. I'm expecting the same here.

Great write up, Bart! It looks like you and I were there the same night. I agree with you 100% about this being the best value in DC for a menu of this kind. I think this is the best time to go to Pineapple and Pearls, as I predict it will only be harder to get a reservation here not only as its reputation in DC grows, but it's national reputation. Not to mention that they will be in a (well deserved) position to raise prices in response to greater demand.

A few years ago there was reporting on a couple of DC blogs that Dino Tapper was going to open a restaurant at the space where Fat Pete's BBQ is now. In addition to the main dining room, the restaurant was going to have a chef's counter that would serve a menu he described as "David Chang meets Rene Redzepi". Of course, I understand that not every restaurant idea is realized, however much commitment there is to the project (see John Shields, now in Chicago). Still, this sounded like an interesting concept, and I would like to have seen how it turned out.

Part 2

The influence of the Michelin Guide is being felt months before its arrival. The tasting menu trend is alive and well in DC, and we may not have seen the end of it. When it was announced that Masa 14 chef de cuisine Ryan Ratino was introducing a chef's table tasting menu experience, I knew I had to try it. The tasting menu starts with a variety of small bites. In most cases this is my favorite part of the degustation experience. But for this menu, most of the highlights came from the larger plates. Of the small bites, the clear stand out was the oyster, cucumber, melon, coriander. It isn't just visually stunning, there was clearly a lot of thought that went into the composition of the dish. The tea vapor provider herbal notes to what may have otherwise been a simple oyster shooter. It's a technique that Grant Achatz has been using at Alinea for awhile now, and its always great to see another variation. The asparagus was delicious, but I wondered if a similar result could be achieved with fewer elements. To accommodate my allergy, Ratino substituted salmon for scallop for the salmon, lemongrass, onion, roe, celery. The salmon was soft, no doubt from being cooked sous vide, and well supported by the roe and pickled vegetable medley. The highlight of the meal was the aged dairy cow, preserved cherry, chanterelles, leek, radicchio. Ratino has a background in classic French, and this with this dish he gets to demonstrate his skill. Layers of radicchio are slowly cooked down into a paste to make a puree. The bitterness of the radicchio and the tartness of the preserved cherries are an excellent contrast to the fatty, aged beef. Overall, I was impressed . It's clear that some of the dishes are in need of refinement, something Ratino was refreshingly honest about. I got to have a lengthy conversation with him towards the end of the meal. We talked about everything from the arrival of Michelin to DC to our favorite restaurant experiences to Flynn McGarry. This guy is a true food nerd. What stood out most is his passion and dedication to his work. He has a vision to transform Masa 14 into an even greater restaurant. If this meal is any indication, he certainly has the potential to do so. Here are some highlights of the meal. I've split the pictures into two posts so that I could fit all of them in.

Thanks for the clarification!

Whenever I am asked for ramen recommendations in DC, I respond (half-jokingly): if you want to start a bar fight in DC,ask within earshot of three people where to find the best ramen. Sit back and watch chaos unfold. Now, with the opening of Bantam King, there's a new voice in this ongoing dialogue. Daikaya is one of my go-to DC ramen spots, so my expectations for Bantam King were high. I was joined this evening by a friend who had just returned from a month long trip abroad and was eager to get back into exploring the DC scene. We got there at opening time, hoping to avoid crowds and to get a taste of the chintan broth before they ran out of their limited supply. The walls are decorated with serving trays, no dobut an hommage to its past as a Burger King restaurant. There is one tray beside the kitchen facing the dining room that informs diners how many bowls of chintan broth are left. The first dish to arrive was the rice with chicken drippings, butter, and soy sauce. The presentation was elegant, served in what appeared to be a Cloud Terre designed bowl. I liked the rice, though I can't say I noticed any chicken flavor from the drippings. Because the bowl was small, it was a bit cumbersome to stir the rice (to ensure an even distribution of the soy sauce and butter) without spilling it. Next to arrive were the goyza sui. I've always been a fan of the pork dumplings at Daikaya, and these are just as good, if not better. There's just enough chili oil to add some heat without being overbearing. Before I could even clasp the first dumpling between my chopsticks, the fried chicken dinner was brought to the table. This was the dish about which I was most curious, having read the mixed reviews. Biting through the crispy skin to get to the juicy flesh was a pleasurable experience. If fact, my friend and I liked the chicken so much, we wondered if the had been modifications to the recipe in response to the reviews. More problematic were the fixings that accompanied the chicken, which ranged from serviceable to awful. The macaroni and cheese has been one of the most criticized of the fixings, but it was the one I enjoyed most. The coleslaw was neither here nor there. The mashed potates were so bad, the kitchen should feel embarrassed to send them out to unsuspecting diners. They belong on the cafeteria menu of a dention center. The biscuits were passable, but I found ways to improve upon them. Some of the bites I would spread with the strawberry preserves and eat along with the chicken for a salty/sweet/crunchy effect. Other bites I would dip into the delicious chili oil laced dumpling broth. Mostly satisfied with the fried chicken, it was now time to move onto the ramen. My friend ordered the shio tori chintan. I ordered shoyu tori paitan so that we could get a good representation of both broths. After tasting my friend's ramen, and allowing him to sample mind, we agreed that while each broth was respectable, we felt a little underwhelmed. I took a moment to ponder my indifference, and I concluded that it came down to a matter of personal taste. I prefer the strong, rich flavors of Sapporo-style tonkotsu ramen. For those in search of something less intense, Bantam King may be what you're looking for. Our meal was coming to an end and I felt something cold and refreshing would be an appropriate finale. There are no desserts listed on the menu, so I was hoping they would reveal that there was a soft serve machine hidden in the kitchen. No such luck. We were offered a matcha tea cheesecake as the sole dessert option. I appreciate desserts that show enough nuance that sugar is not used as a crutch. This dessert fit the bill. Bantam King won't win any prizes for pastry program of the year, but it was a satisfying way to end a heavy meal. Overall, the great service couldn't make up for a meal that was inconsistent. I don't think I'll return to Bantam King anytime soon. Unless someone offers to split the fried chicken dinner. I am looking forward to the opening of Haikan. Sapporo-style ramen is more to my liking and I read that Fukushima may eventually offer a degustation menu, though he hasn't said at which restaurant. minibar meets omakase maybe? I'm hoping it comes to Haikan.

Tim Carman also has a piece about Succotash 2.0. I have to admit, I'm puzzled by his suggestion this may be an attempt by Edward Lee to pursue Michelin stars. From the description, this does not sound like the kind of restaurant Michelin inspectors would reward.

My first experience at Kinship was the first week they were open. I was finally able to make good on my promise to return this Friday night. I can almost see why Sietsema felt slightly let down by his experiences at Métier. The food coming out of the kitchen is at such a high level, it almost feels like an a la carte version of Métier. The pan seared halibut with asparagus, royal trumpet mushrooms, and potato confit could easily have a place on the Métier tasting menu. For me, the star of the pekin duck breast dish was the leek and duck confit cannelloni. The duck confit filling could be the starting point of a new dish, maybe a ravioli. My favorite dessert was the salted caramel peanut bar, but the winner for nostalgia points was the chocolate chip cookie dough soufflé. It reminded me of when I was a kid and would under bake those cookie dough rolls and eat it with ice cream. Except the Kinship version tastes much better.

Ha! Actually, I really liked Metier. A lot. I just liked it a lot more than Sietsema did.

Not for the first time, Sietsema and I see things a little differently . . . Washington Post Metier Review: Eric Ziebold’s newest attraction tickles more than it transports

Will do! And if we ever happen to be dining out at the same place at the same time and you see me before I see you, feel free to come over and say hi.

I've been following Johnny Spero since the two meals I had at Suna during its short lifespan. I really wanted to check him out during his time at minibar. Alas, he left for Mugaritz about a month before my reservation. So I was more than happy to purchase a ticket to the collaborative 6-course meal he created with James Wozniuk at Maketto this past Sunday. I arrived 10 minutes early, before most of the other guests. Before the meal began, Johnny came out to chat with the bartender and the host. On his way back to the kitchen, I caught his eye and he came over to say hi. After a brief exchange, he was off to the kitchen and the meal soon began. The meal consisted of two savory courses and one dessert from each chef, arranged to alternate between the two starting with the first course from Wozniuk. The flavor profiles were very much in line with what one would expect. Wozniuk's courses were sour, funky, and felt like they could easily have a place on the Maketto menu. In fact, I'd like to see the pork sausage and lemon ginger mousse find their way onto the menu at Maketto. Spero's courses were earthy, herbal, and a bit cerebral. Especially the dessert that featured lovage ice cream, herb meringue and a variety of fresh herbs. It very much reminded me of the apple and cilantro dessert from the Suna menu. My favorite course was grilled tomatoes in tomato water. Juicy, sweet tomatoes were perfectly paired with the creamy farm cheese. And some caviar for salinity. It tasted like summer. When the dinner was over, I went to tell Johnny how much I enjoyed the meal. He told me that he is planning to open his next restaurant several months from now and that there will be more pop-ups in the interim. (BTW, his plans for a new place were also announced on a couple of DC food blogs, so I don't think I'm giving away anything confidential.) It is my hope that his new project is a dual concept venue. I'm really excited about the tasting menus that are trending in DC, but the truth is that the format is still a hard sell. Eric Ziebold has Kinship to complement Metier. Aaron Silverman has Rose's Luxury to work alongside Pineapple and Pearls. Even Kwame Onwuachi has talked about turning his Philly Wing Fry pop-up into a fast casual concept. I have no doubt in my mind that there is an audience for avant-garde cuisine like Johnny's in DC. But I question if it's a large enough audience to sustain that kind of operation long term. With a casual concept running in tandem, that might be less of a concern. Johnny is a really talented chef. I would say that he has what it takes to get a Michelin star or two. I'm really excited to see what his next restaurant will look like.