Lorenzo Figliuoli

you are right, of course. I got the Belles mixed up... By the way, Mirabelle is deceased, I believe

La Bise is the successor to the long-running Oval Room near the White House. It is part of the Knightsbridge restaurant group owned and managed by Ashok Bajaj. The kitchen is headed by chef Tyler Stout, who has had stints in Boston’s Troquet, as well as in DC’s Macon Larder. The restaurant dubs itself as offering modern French cuisine. We sat in the right back room and the decoration with giant Paris photos made us feel as if we were almost in the French capital. The service was impeccable like in the late Oval Room. We had a good sample of appetizers and two main courses (recommended by our competent and friendly waitress). Appetizers. A cold fresh pea soup felt in the mouth like a velvety green purée, not too sweet not too savory, just right. The foie gras with verjus (“vinegar” from un-ripened grapes), hazelnut, brioche and more was delicious. The butter-poached Maine lobster was accompanied by glazed potato, celery, preserved lemon and sauce Americaine, providing a counterpoint of starchy, tangy and peppery-sweet flavors to the shellfish. Main courses. · The duck plate was a combination of duck breast and duck leg confit, the latter presented in a “cannellone” with some foie gras added (a riff on the cannelloni a la Rossini, we guess). We thoroughly enjoyed this multifaceted dish, a kind of pasta plus “secondo” course all in one. · The sea bass paired a fantastic crunchy skin outside with a moist white flesh which transported our palate to foodie heaven. The side of zucchini and mini yellow pumpkins was also very tasty and grilled to perfection. To crown it all, we chose to share the Valrhona chocolate dessert with powdery olive oil on the side and vanilla ice cream. So sinfully delicious--we can still taste it in our mouths. It is surprising that the Knightsbridge restaurant group, which includes such great establishments as the two Rasikas and Mirabelle has not been awarded any Michelin stars so far. Perhaps la Bise is Ashok Bajaj’s latest attempt to obtain the coveted Michelin star.

We have been regulars (every five-six weeks) of Victor's Grill and its close-by sister restaurant La Estancia for several years now. You go for the meat, no doubt, but my wife most often has the salmon and she quite likes it. We have even taken vegetarian friends there--not out of premeditated cruelty, but because of the large array of side dishes that can easily serve as main courses. And our vegetarian friends enjoyed them (especially the fried platanos and the yucca). While we are very fond of the Parrillada Argentina--mixed grill with various steak cuts as well as chinchulines (fried intestines), mollejas (sweetbreads) and morcilla (blood sausage), Victor's now offers also a giant tomahawk steak--very tasty! One minor complaint: the platanos (fried plantains) are not always as ripe as they should. The servers are very kind and accommodating and they have done a very good job during the pandemic, setting up an exterior tent with all cold-weather comforts. Victor's is like some of the "steakhouses for the people" that one can find in Argentina (though Victor's includes many Bolivian specialties in its menu). The clientele is an interesting mix of (predominantly) Latinos, Asians (mostly Koreans, given the obvious spiritual affinity with Korean steakhouses) and adventurous gringos.

Nested in a nondescript yet neat strip mall in the heart of the city of Vienna, this restaurant is truly a neighborhood gem. We have been to Clarity a few times in the past, but this was the first visit since the beginning of the pandemic and the phase 3 reopening in NOVA. We were a little hesitant about sitting inside. However, we peeked in and noticed that the restaurant had one of the best organized social-distancing dinner settings we have seen so far, with partitions made of thick fabric curtains between one booth and the other, while also allowing for way over the mandatory 6 feet physical separation among customers. All other sanitary norms (face masks, disinfection, availability of hand sanitizer etc.) were also strictly observed. The food at Clarity is always a delicious surprise and this time was no exception. We got the Hudson Valley foie-gras, the “carbonara”, and the fall salad as starters, all very well executed and artistically presented. The foie-gras was rich and decadent with the right combination of sweetness and sourness, the pasta was al dente and naturally creamy (namely, without the addition of extraneous fat), the salad crispy and fresh. For main course, we had the venison and the sable fillet, both scrumptious! In particular, the sauce for the venison was outstanding, combining perfectly with the gaminess of the meat, exalting its taste and texture rather than suffocating them. Service was impeccable, neither distracted nor intrusive. We were even asked whether “everything is fine” only a finite (and appropriate) number of times...

We had dinner at Al Tiramisu this Thursday. Al Tiramisu is like an old friend who never lets you down. The food is traditional Italian, without flights of fancy, but always carefully, and very tastily, executed. We chose the arugula and beet salads, the lobster linguine, the pappardelle with duck ragu and the branzino. The duck ragu was a variant on the Neapolitan ragu, namely with the meat braised and shredded rather than minced and then braised. Everything was perfectly cooked and delicious. Of course, no need to ask for pasta to be cooked al dente here...Chef Diotaiuti is a stalwart representative of the best classical Italian cuisine in DC. We will be back soon.

We had takeout from Takumi in Falls Church a few days ago. We ordered nigiri, maki, sashimi and a few other items. For sashimi, we got the larger assortment provided by the restaurant. Nigiri included oh-toro (fatty tuna), tuna akami (lean tuna), saba (mackerel), unagi (eel), orange clam, Hokkaido hotate (scallop), seared sea scallops, uni (sea urchin), hamachi (amberjack), ikura (salmon caviar) and branzino with lime jest. For maki, we had the spicy tuna rolls, the mackerel with garlic and shiso roll and the redskins roll. In addition, for appetizers, we chose the miso soups, wakame and tofu, and brussels sprouts with ginger dressing. We also took home the tempura assortment and the soft-shell crab ponzu. The food was arranged as gracefully as possible within the carry out boxes. The food was all high quality, as ever. The high standards of the nigiri and sashimi at Takumi never lets us down. What was surprising is that even the tempura traveled well, though, of course, we ate it first upon arrival at home… The whole pick-up process was well organized with very limited contact. Hand disinfectant was provided after signing the credit card receipt and pens were disinfected after each use.

Just for information, Thompson Italian has reopened for take-out, including cook-at-home meals.

Located inside the space once occupied by the former Ruth Chris’ steak house in Penn quarter, Cranes welcomes you with a tasteful and minimalist decor, accented by the recurring motif of the eponymous crane (obviously…), including in the holders for the chopsticks. The restaurant defines itself as a Kaiseki (haute cuisine) establishment. The chef, Pepe Moncayo, a Spaniard who has lived and worked in Singapore for ten years, offers a Spanish/ Japanese fusion menu constituted of small and medium plates. We visited Cranes a few days ago and tried a large assortment of meat, fish and vegetable dishes. These included the madai aburi (torched red snapper), the cauliflower with persimmon and guanciale, the leaves and roots sunomono (that is, marinated in a traditional vinegar-based dressing), the grilled young onions, the octopus with squid ink potato puree, the bacalao tempura, the cold capellini, the bao ban with prime rib, the kurobuta pork in sherry sauce and the duck gyoza with celeriac puree, water chestnuts and rostit (presumably in reference to the traditional Catalan way of pot roasting with vegetables in an earthenware vessel). They were all delicious and quite unique in their creative mixing of Japanese and Spanish flavors. In general, the fusion between Spanish and Japanese cuisines is achieved by using a mainly Spanish chief ingredient with condiments or sauces inspired by Japanese typical gastronomy. Or, conversely, by using a mainly Japanese chief ingredient with condiments or sauces in the Spanish tradition. The grilled young onions and the Kurobuta pork provide two examples. The grilled young onions dish is a riff on the traditional Catalan calçots, typically served with romesco. The calçots are scallions--every year there is a festival, called the calçotada, in late winter/early spring, in the Catalonian town of Valls dedicated to this delicacy. The Cranes version replaces the Catalan romesco with a Japanese-inspired horseradish kimizu (a sauce with egg yolk and rice vinegar), pine nuts and chives. Though we may still prefer the traditional calçots with romesco, chef Moncayo’s adaptation was excellent. The Kurobuta pork centers on a high-end Japanese ingredient, namely the meat from the white-spotted black Berkshire Japanese pigs, heirs to the Berkshire pigs imported in Japan in the 19th century and raised according to very strict “organic” standards. These high standards translate into a very tasty “porky” pork, very different from the fat-less chicken-like pork that abounds in run-of-the mill supermarkets. And Chef Moncayo accompanies this Japanese delicacy with a Spanish inspired sherry sauce. In sum, Cranes is a truly interesting combination of Mediterranean and Asian flavors and a great addition to the dining scene in the DC area. We would have loved the dishes to be a bit more abundant, given our appetite... Other than that, well done chef Moncayo!

We had been aware for some time that an outpost of Chinese imperial cuisine manned by a famous chef, named after the latter “Chef Guo”, was hiding fairly close to where we live. We found out that Chef Guo was located in an unpretentious strip mall in the Alexandria Landmark neighborhood, curiously sitting next to a Peruvian roasted chicken take-out place. We were intrigued by the presence of an ambitious gastronomic establishment in such indifferent surroundings. Thus, we decided to try it for dinner, on a chilly Valentine’s Day evening. From outside the restaurant looks like a nondescript small glassy box, except for some posters with the pictures of chef Guo and biographical information on him. As soon as we entered, we were gifted a wonderful red scarf with the Chef Guo logo embroidered on it: a nice gesture indeed! The room accommodates perhaps 6-8 small tables and a large communal table. The tables were beautifully arranged with traditional expensive-looking china plates and bowls in yellow flowery tones made especially for Chef Guo. One can choose between three tasting menus: basic, intermediate, and top, though they are given much fancier names by Chef Guo. The basic menu includes a high-scale hot pot, while the other two do not. We opted for the top tasting menu option (dubbed The Banquet Filled with Precious Gem and Jade), which consists of twelve small plates (in the event, it turned out to be thirteen, since chef Guo generously comped an additional small plate). The following link includes the three menus: https://chefguo.com/#menu. We also ordered a Cote du Rhône wine and green tea to go with our food. The presentation and the taste of each dish were both outstanding, and also very different from anything we have ever tried before in the US, Europe or Latin America (we have not been to China) as far as Chinese cuisine goes. Every single dish was accompanied by a thorough explanation of the ingredients and a brief description of the underlying cooking techniques, with some excursion even on its broader cultural meanings (e.g. the Tai-Chi Truffle soup presented its two main ingredients, asparagus and pumpkin, as both separate and integrated in the traditional Yin-Yang symbol disposition, as in fancy cappuccinos). We especially liked the braised Australian abalone, the pan-fried foie gras with gold leaf flakes and green rice, the Chef Guo signature noodles and the Tai Chi Truffle soup, but it was really hard to choose among a swirl of dishes simultaneously delighting our eye sights and satisfying our palates. In particular, the abalone—a mollusk rather difficult to prepare well--felt neither too hard nor too soggy, say, it was exactly “al dente”. Not that we ever cooked abalone ourselves, but it seemed to have a perfect consistency and the sauce/broth with which it was dressed also tasted just right. Moreover, the condiment of the signature noodles was a bean ragout with a great umami/meaty taste, probably enhanced by the presence of soy sauce. A word of advice if you go to Chef Guo. There was some obvious inconsistency between the high price of the culinary experience and the ambiance, wine program and the service. The ambiance, while definitely comfortable and pleasingly quiet, resembled too much a hut with stitched up velvety and other possibly luxurious decorations. Also, two TV monitors, appropriately muted, endlessly showed documentaries about chef Guo with Chinese captions, which seemed to us a bit exaggerated. One of the monitors also crashed during the dinner and ended up listing the icons of the various videos for the remainder of the evening… The wine list was limited, though it included some good bottles. But there was no assistance in choosing the wines and definitely no wine pairing option to accompany the tasting menu. Both would have required some sommelier expertise that was clearly unavailable. Finally, the service, while always kind and friendly, looked at times rather improvised. At a price point for the top menu which exceeds that of Minibar, these are issues that may put some people off. If you go, you must be prepared to accept these limitations. In the end, for us the excellence, and uniqueness, of the culinary experience more than offset these shortcomings. Indeed, it proved the best way to celebrate our Valentine’s Day.

Just to report that Chef Imperato has recently added to the menu two (presumably seasonal, but maybe not) items: a boudin noir appetizer and a breaded skate wing main course. We tried them and both were very good.

Maialino Mare is the recently opened DC transplant of the well-known Maialino in New York City’s Gramercy Park. Maialino Mare is located Inside the newly opened Thompson Hotel in the Navy Yard neighborhood. The restaurant is large and nicely designed. The ambience is comfortable, with lots of light filtering through large windows that provide a sense of open space, though it feels a bit colder, less cozy than the Gramercy Park original. Maialino Mare also has an upstairs bar with roof terrace (Anchovy Social) which serves mostly small plates and drinks and has an outstanding view of the Anacostia River and the Navy Yard area. The NYC restaurant is a stalwart of Roman cuisine, with an American twist, in the Big Apple. We had been to Maialino a few years ago and very much enjoyed the experience then (including the eponymous maialino al forno—roasted suckling pig). We wanted to try how its DC offshoot fared. We were certainly not disappointed. Maialino in New York is “more Roman” than its DC counterpart. For example, it offers three typical Roman pastas (cacio e pepe, carbonara and amatriciana) as opposed to only one (amatriciana) in the Navy yard establishment. It also has the coda alla vaccinara--or oxtail stew in a tomato-and-celery-based sauce, a staple of traditional Roman cuisine. On the other hand, Maialino Mare, as its very name suggests, has a more expansive menu of seafood, including skate wing, octopus, swordfish and spigola (the Southern Italian name of branzino or Mediterranean sea bass). We tried three different veggie appetizers: “insalata”--a generic name for a kind of Italianate Caesar salad--, radicchio and fried baby artichokes. All were excellent, though the artichokes were only a proxy for the Jewish artichokes (Carciofi all Giudia) that are ubiquitous in Rome, especially in its Jewish quarter, and rely on the super tender local big artichokes. Then we had two classic pastas: Amatriciana and bottarga--dried mullet roe, typical from Sardinia. The waiter had explained which menu pasta items used fresh pasta and which ones used dry pasta. We decided to go for two classic dishes, which both relied on dry pasta. They were really perfect! (Only concern was the pasta portions were little more than appetizer sizes…) First, both pastas totally al dente, of course. Moreover, the bottarga condiment was not overwhelming, meaning that it was tasty without being too salty (you could say that it had “umami balance”), a frequent shortcoming when bottarga is involved. The Amatriciana was also perfect. An A+. Not only the tomato sauce was done as it should be, but it combined very well with the guanciale. Let me explain. Three of the most typical Roman pasta dishes, namely gricia, carbonara and amatriciana all live--or die--in the contrast between the creaminess of the sauce and the crunchiness of the guanciale (or, less canonically, pancetta). The creaminess is achieved simply by melting the pecorino cheese with some help from the starchy water in which the pasta has been boiled--in the case of the Amatriciana also with the help of tomato sauce--but no “external” fat. The crunchiness of the guanciale is achieved by sautéing it in its own rendered fat alone. The Amatriciana at Maialino Mare met this crucial “combination standard” too. In addition, we shared the Fiorentina (Porterhouse steak) and we added the rosemary roasted potatoes as a side. The Fiorentina was cooked to order (medium rare) and very tasty, perhaps a tad too salty. Obviously, in Tuscany only a porterhouse from the Chianina breed would be deemed a Fiorentina, but we are not purists when the meat is superb anyhow... Finally, we had the Torta della Nonna as dessert. This was also delicious, but more resembling a cheesecake topped with pine nuts than the traditional version we know from Italy. The authentic Torta della Nonna is flatter and just filled with pastry cream and pine nuts. Nevertheless, the Maialino Mare version is very good in its own style. Noise levels were better than in most new places: we could actually entertain a conversation without shouting. Prices were acceptable for DC standards. Overall a great experience, though we still miss a true Roman restaurant in the DC area—I’m Eddie Cano comes close.

We had thoroughly enjoyed Chef Ruta’s culinary mastery in his previous digs, Palena and Mirabelle. Thus, we were anxious to try his new restaurant near Dupont Circle and went there last weekend, just one week after Annabelle’s opening. For main courses, we chose the smoked olive-oil -poached Chatham cod, the home-dry-aged rib eye beef steak and the roasted free-range half-chicken with tarragon jus, oca root boulangere and wilted spinach. The entrees were all excellently executed (meaning that we liked them a lot, lest somebody might think we possess superior technical knowledge…). Though we also agreed that the succulent chicken (crispy on the outside, moist inside, super tasty throughout) stood out as the top pf the pack, in terms of cost-benefit analysis (aka bang for the buck). The most committed meat eater among us (that would be me) thought that the rib eye steak at 9oz was a bit on the smallish side. That is certainly good for the cows, probably beneficial to the environment, perhaps helpful for human health, but it certainly does little to improve my mood. Before the main courses, we had the “Carbonara” (a riff on the typical Roman dish with duck confit replacing the guanciale or pancetta and egg sabayon replacing the fresh egg dictated by eternal city tradition). We also tried three different salads, namely the beet, Caesar-esque, and Boston Lettuce salads, all scrumptious, with the Caesar-esque perhaps being the most notable. Annabelle is located in the building that once hosted the famous Nora, well known for being the first farm-to-table/organic restaurant in the DC area. Although the general arrangement and resulting atmosphere of Annabelle are very pleasant, we felt that there are some minor quirks in the architecture of the place following its renovation. The entrance leads you straight to the bar area and the space between host and door is quite narrow and feels crammed. Moreover, the restrooms are located in a tight corridor in front of a fairly noisy servers’ desk, which takes away from the desirable privacy in bathroom practice. Finally, our table was in the back area, a sort of patio with a lot of green and interesting artwork, but quite cold compared to the rest of the restaurant, maybe because of the glass roof. The waiters all were very professional and indeed charming. In sum, an excellent gastronomic experience which we will repeat.

This (fairly recently opened) Peruvian restaurant near Dunn Loring metro is really charming, from the kind servers to the tasty menu. Perhaps we never had a better ceviche than the ceviche clasico offered here. Fresh and tasty, with a great leche-de-tigre marinade. Our quinoa salad was beautifully presented as a dome-shaped pudding with avocado at the bottom. Besides, it also tasted really good... In addition, we got the main fish dish (pescado a lo macho), the arroz tapado (upside down rice bowl with ground beef and fried egg) and the bistec a la pobre (fried-egg-topped steak with criolla sauce). Everything was tasty and well portioned. Finally, the Pisco sour was excellent. We would certainly recommend this place to Peruvians and non-Peruvians. In our view, La Limena remains tops among the Peruvian restaurants in the DC area but it has now some competition. And Inca Social is much closer to our home.

We have returned to Chloe after a few months and we liked it perhaps even more than the first time, if at all possible. Chef Karoum (previously at the now shuttered Proof as well as at Estadio and Doi Moi) is presiding over a smooth-functioning establishment, both for the food and the overall experience. Nested in the vibrant Navy Yard District, Chloe delivers excellent new American food with a twist. The restaurant mainly serves small to medium plates (like tapas), which range from the hamachi crudo to grilled Path Valley scallions with romesco sauce (a close relative of the typical Catalan Calçots), from the seafood gumbo to roasted cod, from white sausage to veal hummus. But Chloe excels also in main dishes such as the grilled Berkshire Porkchop and the Crispy whole Fish. The atmosphere is lively but not too loud, the servers charming. This time, we had the Hamachi collar, Utica style greens, grilled scallions, seafood gumbo, gem lettuce, the cheese plate and the grilled Berkshire pork chop (the big dish). Everything was great, though we were particularly fond of the grilled scallions and the seafood gumbo. The servers are always very nice and competent. We actually have known some of them from our past visits to Proof and Ray’s the Steaks. It was nice to see them in Chloe. The restaurant is full of light with a contemporary décor, notably a prevalence of glass and windows throughout. Prices are in line with other comparable restaurants in DC.

Semeli Taverna is an interesting new Greek concept perched atop the Sakerum sushi establishment on 14th street NW--in the refurbished rooftop of the latter. The menu is based on a choice of 14 mezze and one main dish, always a “fresh catch of the day”. Though you can order the mezze separately a la carte, the try-all-mezze option seems the default option here and at 39 dollars for the all-mezze menu is quite a bargain. While not attaining the quality of the outstanding Greek places in the area (Nostos, My Mom Eugenia, and, on the fast food front, the Greek Deli on 19 h street NW), the food is quite good. Best, in our group’s view, were the saganaki, the calamari, the orzo with lamb ragu’, and the branzino. We felt nonetheless that there were some areas for improvement. The chicken souvlaki was a bit on the dry side and cocktails were not available—strange, given that there is a full bar at Sakerum downstairs (from where they were supposed to come, we gather). Moreover, the final mezze, the dessert, was a relatively strange combination of what appeared to be cornbread and mochi green tea ice cream (the latter recycled from Sakerum?). The menu listed semolina cake with Mastiha gelato for dessert, but what was provided did not seem to match the description, at least if we understand what mastiha should be... The locale is nicely outfitted to look like a Greek terrace, suffused in blue and white, the national colors of Greece, and with hanging (faux?) plants. During our visit, the clientele was mostly youthful, except us...The room was pretty quiet and allowed for relaxed conversation, which is definitely a plus. Overall, the experience was quite pleasant and, again, we felt it was a fair deal for DC standards.

We have been patronizing Tachibana for nearly three decades, since the early nineties when it was still located in the Cherrydale neighborhood in Arlington. Our daughter is probably the greatest fan of Tachibana worldwide, as it is engraved in her childhood memory as her go-to-restaurant. Over time we have tried most of the menu items: sushi, sashimi, ankimo, salads, tonkatsu, shabu shabu, udon, tempuras and more. During our most recent visit last week, we ordered sashimi special and sushi assortment. Uni, toro, saba and the hand rolled sushi options were the standouts, but everything else was very good too. While perhaps not on par with the very top Japanese restaurants in Washington area (say, Sushi Taro, Sushi Gakyu, the omakase at Sushi-ko or Izakaya Seki), Tachibana remains a great, consistent Japanese restaurant with a family-friendly atmosphere, without being too loud or trading down on quality. Needless to say, we love Tachibana. The sushi is always fresh and tasty, made to order in front of you, and the hot pots are also delicious. We rarely skip a custom-made assortment of sushi for the three or four people that typically make up our group. One more menu item to mention is their green tea. It invariably has a calming and soothing effect on us. The red bean mochi ice cream is a must and we often close our meal with it. One minor drawback is that Tachibana does not take reservations for fewer than six people, and if you do not go early (before 6pm on Fridays and weekends), your average wait will be around thirty minutes. It would be convenient if Tachibana at least allowed you to call ahead before you leave home.

This little restaurant at the corner of Lee Highway and I66/Washington Boulevard is truly an hidden gem of the Falls Church neighborhood. Our entire family enjoys it. My wife often goes there for lunch with her girl friends. The menu is mainly concentrated on typical French fare , but it also includes Lorraine-Alsace specialties and other regional dishes, including the seasonal choucroute Alsacienne and the Cassoulet which I enjoy so much. My wife finds it very difficult to pass on the sole meunière almost every time we go. Though, over time, we have tried several delicious dishes on the menu, including the rib eye steak with Roquefort cheese, the venison loin, the bouillabaisse, the onion soup, the homemade pate and the mussels. A special treat is the Tarte Tatin at dessert time. Absolutely scrumptious perfection! We find the dishes very well executed and as close to the French originals as one could expect on the side of the pond. This is a quite an achievement for a neighborhood place. Even more remarkable that la Cote d'Or is consistent in its quality. My only "disappointment" is that the previous management used to offer a fresh foie gras with raspberry reduction that was to die for and I have not seen it in the specials for a few years now. I wish we could have it back from time to time! The character of the place is very relaxed with low noise. You can actually have a conversation in soft voice, which is more than what is on offer in most restaurants nowadays. The clientele seems mostly senior and very well behaved... Prices are reasonable for the DC area.